Grand Est – The Good Life France https://thegoodlifefrance.com Everything you ever wanted to know about france and more Wed, 23 Oct 2024 06:41:14 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://i0.wp.com/thegoodlifefrance.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/cropped-Flag.jpg?fit=32%2C32&ssl=1 Grand Est – The Good Life France https://thegoodlifefrance.com 32 32 69664077 Short stay in Reims Champagne https://thegoodlifefrance.com/short-stay-in-reims-champagne/ Tue, 01 Oct 2024 05:37:44 +0000 https://thegoodlifefrance.com/?p=277070 Make the most of a short stay in Reims, the effervescent city where the Kings of France were once crowned but where Champagne now rules! Medieval Reims, the capital of Champagne, is the home to many of the big-name producers of the world’s favourite sparkling alcohol – champagne. So if you only have 24 hours […]

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Statue of Joan of Arc at Reims Cathedral

Make the most of a short stay in Reims, the effervescent city where the Kings of France were once crowned but where Champagne now rules!

Medieval Reims, the capital of Champagne, is the home to many of the big-name producers of the world’s favourite sparkling alcohol – champagne. So if you only have 24 hours in this sparkling city, the one thing you must do is visit a cellar for a tasting.

Short stay in Reims – Champagne visits

There’s tons of choice with around 155 miles of cellars in Reims, and everyone has their favourite maison de Champagne. I love the cathedral-like Ruinart cellars on the outskirts of the city, the oldest Champagne house still working. Then there’s Vranken-Pommery with its 11 miles of cellars including galleries carved out of the chalk by the Romans. Taitinger, Lanson, Veuve Clicquot-Ponsardin and GH Martel, and several more.

Some Champagne house visits are by appointment only, most are closed on Sundays but if that’s the day you’re there, GH Mumm (www.mumm.com), a 15-minute walk from the city centre, offer cellar tours, a fascinating museum, and tastings from 10am to 5.30pm. They keep a staggering 35 million bottles of Cordon Rouge and other labels underneath their headquarters in the Rue du Champ-de-Mars.

Champagne bottles at Ruinart

Champagne is almost a religion here. I reckon you could stop just about anyone in the street, a man walking a dog, a couple out for a stroll, a woman on her way to the market with a trolley, and they would all have an opinion about Champagne – the best producer, whether it should be Brut or not, Blanc de Noirs or Blanc de Blancs. But, I recommend you head to the tourist office for heaps of information on Champagne visits and everything else in Reims. You’ll find details of cellar visit times and a variety of tours (including tours in English), on the Tourist Office website at the end of the article.

Theatrical serving of ratafia at La Grande Georgette restaurant

Where to pair food with bubbles!

All those bubbles are bound to make you feel a bit peckish and since Reims is a gastronomic city, you won’t find it hard to find somewhere scrumptious. The perfect lunch for me is at Le Bistrot des Anges (www.bistrotdesanges.com) where the locals go, not posh fare but delicious hearty food like ‘bangers and mash’, ‘fish and chips’- and they don’t sound very French, but I promise you, they go perfectly with a glass of chilled Champagne!

And restaurant la Grande Georgette (www.lacasernechanzy.com), opposite Reims Cathedral offers truly excellent food with a classic menu that’s also innovative – the King crab with asparagus cream and yuzu foam is mouth-wateringly delicious. Whatever you do don’t miss the Ratafia de Champagne, a rich liqueur dripped into your glass via a giant pipette from a huge bottle, it’s pure theatre, and utterly delectable.

What to see in Reims

Palace of Tau, Reims

There’s plenty to do in the town which is small enough to wander, though there’s an excellent tram service if you want to save time, and plenty of bike lanes for those who fancy cycling the city streets and even out into the surrounding countryside. Reims features a mix of architectural styles from Renaissance to art deco, and contemporary.

There are great shopping facilities, including a super Saturday morning market in Rue de Mars, the perfect place to pick up some pink biscuits, les biscuits roses, a Reims speciality and traditionally dipped in Champagne. They were invented in 1690, and served at King Louis XVI at his coronation in the city in 1775 – he loved them and had them supplied to the Palace of Versailles!

Several museums will please culture vultures including the fabulous Tau Palace, the former home of the Bishops of Reims. This is also where the Kings stayed while awaiting their coronation in the Cathedral next door, including 12-year-old Louis XV, the first king to drink Champagne. Tau Palace now hosts an exceptional collection of religious artefacts including the Coronation chalice.

You’ll also spot Roman remains as you wander – Reims was an important city in Roman Gaul, called Durocortorum, and the monumental 30m high Mars Gate, originally one of four triumphal arches, is one of the largest known porticos of the Roman world.

Reims Cathedral

The absolute must-see in Reims is one of the world’s most famous churches – the great Gothic Cathedral of Notre-Dame. Listening to the sonorous bells of this working church is mesmerising, and the incredible facade is mind-bogglingly beautiful as you enter under the gaze of a stone angel seemingly beaming with pleasure at church goers.

Smiling angel of Reims Cathedral, a must-see on a short stay in Reims

Inside, as the light shines through the dazzling rose window, kids run up and down the nave, mums and dads ‘shush’ them, tourists from around the globe ‘ooh’ and ‘ah’ at the beauty of this building and its stained-glass windows. The coronations of a mind-boggling 37 Kings of France took place here, beginning with Charlemagne’s son, Louis the Pious in 816, and ending with Charles X in 1825. Charles VII, with Joan of Arc at his side, was crowned here in 1429.

Built over the foundations of a 4th century church, the Cathedral was begun in 1211 and took almost 100 years to complete. It was shelled by the Germans in the Franco-Prussian War in 1870, and again in World War I, when its dazzling stained-glass windows were destroyed, but rose again to its former glory. The restored cathedral was reopened in 1938 and miraculously avoided the destruction suffered by much of the rest of Reims in World War II.

A truly divine must-see in Reims, a city that sparkles from start to finish.

Get there: You can reach Reims in just 46 minutes by train from Gare de l’Est, Paris.

Stay: Hôtel La Caserne Chanzy (www.lacasernechanzy.com) A former fire station converted into a 5-star spa hotel offers lovely, luxurious rooms and great service (including valet-parking, a real bonus in a city where parking isn’t always easy). There’s also a fabulously glamorous and elegant Champagne bar. And for extra wow factor, ask for a room with a balcony overlooking the Cathedral opposite.

Useful websites: reims-tourisme.com/en; tourisme-en-champagne.co.uk

Janine Marsh is the author of  several internationally best-selling books about France. Her latest book How to be French – a celebration of the French lifestyle and art de vivre, is out now – a look at the French way of life. Find all books on her website janinemarsh.com

Want more France?

Discover more fabulous destinations in France with our free magazine The Good Life France

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Discover Aÿ in Champagne https://thegoodlifefrance.com/discover-ay-in-champagne/ Thu, 15 Aug 2024 07:50:10 +0000 https://thegoodlifefrance.com/?p=275454 East of Paris lies the region of Champagne – known around the world for its effervescent wine. The most well-known vineyards are in the Marne department, also home to the two major cities of Champagne: Reims and Epernay. Both sit above hundreds of miles of cellars in which several million bottles of Champagne lie waiting […]

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Ay, Champagne

East of Paris lies the region of Champagne – known around the world for its effervescent wine. The most well-known vineyards are in the Marne department, also home to the two major cities of Champagne: Reims and Epernay. Both sit above hundreds of miles of cellars in which several million bottles of Champagne lie waiting to be released and enjoyed by a legion of fans. And around these two Champagne cities is glorious countryside, peppered with farms, unspoiled villages and precious vineyards, where the soul of Champagne resides says Janine Marsh.

Aÿ get a kick from Champagne

Aÿ, pronounced like ‘eye’, is the third most important Champagne wine town in the Marne. As far back as Gallo-Roman times, the Romans arrived in 57 BC, it was already well known for its wine. King Henri IV (1353-1610) called himself “Sire d’Aÿ” and legend has it that he kept a wine press in a house behind the medieval church of St Brice. A stone’s throw from the church is Pressoria – not a museum says the director Victor Canchon, “it’s a sensory journey to the heart of Champagne.” And it’s a fabulous place to start your discovery of Champagne.

Pressoria

Pressoria - Champagne

No dry exhibition this, quite literally – as it ends with a delicious tasting. Pressoria is housed on the site of a former Pommery Champagne pressing centre. It’s innovative and interactive, fun and fascinating, and great for the whole family. A visit here gives you a marvellous overview of Champagne from the land to the bottle. 10 rooms are dedicated to all things Champagne. Animated vines snake across the floor at your feet, bubbles follow your hands as you run them over the walls; it really is a sensory visit as you taste, touch, see, listen and smell the magic of Champagne. You can easily spend two hours here. Details: pressoria.com/en

And there’s no better place to continue your Champagne voyage of discovery than this exquisite part of the region. There are many producers and growers in the hills around and if you can’t make up your mind which to choose – the Champagne Tour Co. can help with setting up tours, meetings and transport in very posh cars! Very few of the big Champagne houses grow all their own grapes; some grow none. They mainly depend on the 16,000 individual growers in the region. Of the growers, just 4,700 actually produce Champagne and two of the best are Champagne Lallemont-Massonnot in Coulommes-la-Montagne and Champagne Delavenne in the aptly named village of Bouzy.

Champagne tours and tastings

Xavier and Marie Lallement, Lallement-Massonot

At Champagne Lallement-Massonnot, you can take a superb tour that takes you from the vineyard to the pressing room, past the tanks and into the bottling room. It’s a backstage tour and tells the human story of Champagne production. Plus, you’ll taste some of the finest Champagne ever made, created by 5th generation Champagne makers Xavier and Marie Lallement.

Jean-Christophe Delavenne of Champagne Delavenne learned about making Champagne from his grandfather and father, and he is passionate about respecting the land, organic and natural production. Just one sip of one of the outstanding Champagne he makes will tell you all you need to know – astonishingly good, it tastes like heaven.

Dine atRestaurant Calsis next to Pressoria is a must. Big windows overlook hilly vineyards, and it’s always packed with locals enjoying the excellent 3 or 6 course menus, with of course Champagne.

Domaine du Chateau, Champagne

Stay atDomaine du Chateau in Chigny-les-Roses near Pressoria is no ordinary hotel, it’s a little piece of Paradise, elegant, luxurious and exquisite. The little chateau is so discreetly marked you may miss the sign as I did, but everyone in the village knows it. I arrived under a star-filled sky and the big wood fire was crackling in the cosy salon. There are four rooms and each of them is very different. One is a suite really with a library/sitting room that reminded me of the film “My Fair Lady” and has its own wood fire. My room had a huge terrace overlooking the vineyards and a bathroom with a spiral staircase that wouldn’t look out of place in a Harry Potter scene. There’s also a treehouse you can stay in, plus a pool and spa area.

Whatever you do, don’t miss the chance to experience chef Damien Litaudon’s exquisite dishes. Seriously, seriously special, Michelin level without the theatrics, innovative, impeccable and very, very delicious. Every course is paired with one of the Domaine’s own superb Palmer & Co. champagnes. One of the best meals I’ve ever had.

Find out more about Champagne: tourisme-en-champagne.co.uk

Janine Marsh is the author of  several internationally best-selling books about France. Her latest book How to be French – a celebration of the French lifestyle and art de vivre, is out now – a look at the French way of life. Find all books on her website janinemarsh.com

Want more France?

Discover more fabulous destinations in France with our free magazine The Good Life France

Love France? Have a listen to our podcast – everything you want to know about France and more!

All rights reserved. This article may not be published, broadcast, rewritten (including translated) or redistributed without written permission.

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The must-sees of Nancy, jewel of Lorraine https://thegoodlifefrance.com/the-must-sees-of-nancy-jewel-of-lorraine/ Sun, 07 Jul 2024 08:36:20 +0000 https://thegoodlifefrance.com/?p=275684 In 1755, the fountains in the city of Nancy, flowed with wine to celebrate the inauguration of one of the finest squares in the world. If you lived in Paris then and wanted to join in the fun, it would take several days to make the 240-mile journey to Lorraine, northeast France. Now the fast […]

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Place Stanislas, Nancy

In 1755, the fountains in the city of Nancy, flowed with wine to celebrate the inauguration of one of the finest squares in the world. If you lived in Paris then and wanted to join in the fun, it would take several days to make the 240-mile journey to Lorraine, northeast France. Now the fast train whisks you to this dazzling city in less than 90 minutes. And it’s a detour that’s well worth taking for the amazing architecture alone, three beautiful UNESCO-listed squares of “outstanding universal value” which, says the organisation, “constitute a unique artistic achievement, a veritable masterpiece of creative genius. But that’s not all Nancy has to offer. It’s also the Art-nouveau capital of France, the belle epoque, nature-inspired art form that transformed the decorative arts at the start of the 20th century.

Place Stanislas Nancy

Statue of Stanislas. Place Stanislas, Nancy

Let’s get back to that square which caused wine to flow. It too was nouveau in its way though it was long before the days of Art nouveau. The story begins with a king who had no kingdom. Stanislas Leszczynski, former ruler of Poland, homeless after being deposed, was offered the Dukedom of Lorraine by his son-in-law, King Louis XV of France. The new Duke embraced his life in the city of Nancy and set out to link the city’s old town, the medieval district and ‘new’ town, the 16th century Renaissance district, creating an urban landscape that was way ahead of its time, gloriously Rococo, and echoing the opulence of Versailles. It was a majestic showpiece, even if he was no longer a King. UNESCO says the development of Nancy constitutes the “oldest and most characteristic example of a modern capital where an enlightened monarch proved to be sensitive to the needs of the public.”

The architectural transformation of Nancy by the Duke was to honour Louis XV. Place Stanislas, originally named Place Royale, is the biggest and most famous of three grand squares. Lining it are classical buildings including the statuesque Opera House, which has a sumptuous interior, and the Fine Arts Museum. Extravagant fountains (no wine, water these days!) are set into the walls of the square which are accessed through grand, gilded wrought iron gates.

Though you may be dazzled by the style and beauty of this square, don’t miss a visit to the place de la Carrière, where noblemen once raced horses, home to the Palais du Gouvernement and classical townhouses. And, the Place d’Alliance where you can sit under a leafy tree while admiring the architecture and the fountain inspired by the fountain in Piazza Navona in Rome.

Art Nouveau heaven

Art Nouveau house in Nancy

Not content with gorgeous classical architecture, Nancy is also a land of art nouveau glory, the voluptuous movement that pays homage to nature and thrived in Europe from the 1880’s to the start of World War I. Three of the biggest names in art nouveau, Gallé, Daum and Majorelle had their glassware and furniture making factories in Nancy.

At the Musée des Beaux-Arts de Nancy in Place Stanislas, there’s a splendid collection of art including Picasso, Matissse, Monet and Manet, as well as a fabulous collection of art nouveau pieces, including 300 pieces of Daum glass (Daum have a boutique-museum close by). Daum was active in the School of Nancy, an association of artists, artisans and manufacturers, which was established in 1901 to promote Art nouveau with the philosophy of “art in everything” and “art for everyone.” Artists experimented with natural shapes — flowers, vines, birds, insects — and the idea of using industrial techniques and materials to create beauty in commonplace items – definitely aligning with French art de vivre, the art of appreciating the beauty of simple of things, living life with elegance and passion.

The founder of the School of Nancy was Emile Gallé, an innovative glass maker whose reputation spread far and wide, motivating American artist Louis Comfort Tiffany to visit the Galle factory in Nancy. At the Musée de l’Ecole de Nancy you can see a collection of Gallé’s work in an art nouveau mansion which is kitted out in the most amazing period furniture, from stained glass and objets d’art to the “Dawn and Dusk” bed, which has an unforgettable moth theme.

At Villa Majorelle at 1 rue Louis-Majorelle, the former home of cabinet maker Louis Majorelle feels as if you’ve stepped back in time. The house features flamboyant flower-shaped chimney pots, writhing wrought iron balconies and rooms filled with fabulous furniture.

Architectural highlights

In fact, everywhere you go in Nancy you’ll find not just art nouveau and classical buildings to admire but, going back even further in time, the medieval old town features the wonderfully pointy-towered 13th-century Craffe Gate, the last remnant of the town’s medieval fortifications and one of two gates to the city. There’s also the 15th-century Cordelier Church, and remnants of an early 16th-century palace.

This melange of glorious styles makes Nancy one of the most architecturally exquisite cities in France, like a mini-Paris but with its own unique and gorgeous look and feel.

But, this is no staid museum town, it’s a gastronomic destination, brimming with brilliant restaurants, like the Excelsior, a complete 1911 period piece with stained glass windows, shimmering polished brass chandeliers and Majorelle furniture (there is no piano by him here but in the Musée de l’Ecole de Nancy). There are friendly bars, cultural venues galore, and fabulous boutiques. Nancy, one of the greenest and most floral cities in France, is also a wellness destination, the only French city to have a thermal spa in the heart of a metropolitan area. There really is something to please just about everyone in this ravishing city.

Top tip: Get a City Pass (online) or from the tourist office. It gives you access to all museums and cultural venues, a free guided tour, audio-guide, offers and discounts in shops, plus an app with loads of details for what to see and do, where to eat, parks you can relax in, discounted public transport (note all trams and buses in Nancy are free on weekends), and more.

Book a tour, get a map, find out what’s on and pick up a city pass from the tourist office which is located in Place Stanislas: nancy-tourisme.fr/en

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Hiking in the French Ardennes https://thegoodlifefrance.com/hiking-in-the-french-ardennes/ Thu, 09 Nov 2023 10:54:05 +0000 https://thegoodlifefrance.com/?p=248289 Tucked away, in a corner of north-eastern of France, sandwiched between Champagne and Belgium, the French Ardennes are something of a mystery. Dense forests cover almost half of the region and the landscape is gently rolling hills and deep valleys. Rupert Parker goes hiking in the French Ardennes, the perfect way to explore this little […]

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Tucked away, in a corner of north-eastern of France, sandwiched between Champagne and Belgium, the French Ardennes are something of a mystery. Dense forests cover almost half of the region and the landscape is gently rolling hills and deep valleys. Rupert Parker goes hiking in the French Ardennes, the perfect way to explore this little known region of France…

Up and Down in the French Ardennes

The French Ardennes area is crossed by the meandering River Meuse, running from north to south, home to fortified castles and churches with numerous colourful town and villages on its banks. The largest of these is the capital, Charleville-Mézières, actually a combination of two former towns.

It’s easy to get here by train and from London, I take Eurostar to Paris, then TGV to Reims and finally a local train to Charleville-Mézières. It takes me around five and a half hours but most of that is spent watching the countryside fly by.

Charleville-Mézières

In 1606, Charles de Gonzague, the Duke of Mantua, founded the city of Charleville as his personal residence, opposite the town of Mézières on the banks of the Meuse. Designed by renowned architect Clément II Métezeau, the city is laid out geometrically, with avenues and elegant squares, reflecting the grandeur and ambition of its founder.

The grandest is the majestic Place Ducale, a splendid square inspired by the Place des Vosges in Paris. It’s lined by arcades, housing elegant shops with a central fountain and it’s a vibrant hub for locals and tourists alike. I stroll through its cobbled streets, cross the river, and admire the impressive 15th century Basilique Notre-Dame d’Espérance, in Mézières. It contains around 1000 square metres of stained glass created by René Dürrbach, a friend of Picasso.

Arthur Rimbaud, the renowned French poet was born in Charleville on October 20, 1854, and spent his formative years in the town, before running away to Paris when he was seventeen. He died young in Marseilles and his remains were brought back to the town’s cemetery in 1910. His grave, and the house where he grew up, form part of the Rimbaud Trail and there’s an excellent museum dedicated to him in an old watermill on the banks of the Meuse.

Major puppet centre

Charleville is a major international puppetry centre and every two years it hosts one of the largest puppet festivals in the world, the Festival Mondial des Théâtres de Marionnettes (puppet festival) each September. For ten days professional troupes from all over the world stage around fifty shows a day both inside and out. The Puppet Museum has a collection of intricately crafted marionettes and there are occasional performances at the Institut de la Marionnette.

Ardennes Regional Nature Park

The city is the gateway to the Ardennes Regional Nature Park, in the north of the department, with a surface area of 117 200 hectares, and home to 92 small towns. It’s a lush green territory full of forests, hedged farmland, dry grassland, peat bogs, rocky escarpments and rivers. Outdoor leisure activities such as walking, cycling, mountain biking, horse-riding, fishing and kayaking are popular here.

One of the most popular destinations is the 150 hectare Vieilles Forges Lake. It offers a host of water sports including swimming, windsurfing, paddle-boarding and kayaking and you can also fish from its banks. The lake is surrounded by forests and I take the trail running around its shores nearly 12km, an easy afternoon walk. The reward is a refreshing early evening dip, still chilly at the start of summer.

Nearby in the heart of the forest, just outside Signy-l’Abbaye is another circular hike, Le Sentier n°56 “La source de la Pichelotte”. It’s almost all among the trees, a mix of beech and pine, and crosses streams and valleys. I see no other walkers in my four hours of walking with only the birds for company.

The winding Meuse

 

North of Charleville, the Meuse winds through deep valleys with dramatic wooded cliffs on both sides. The town of Monthermé is right in the heart of the Ardennes Forest, and the river makes a wide loop here. Canoeing, biking and walking are all on offer and the trails are tougher here. The Paths of Legends Loop is a five hour strenuous hike starting and ending in the town.

I start with a steep climb up to the Roche à Sept Heures, worth it for the panoramic views of the river bend, with the town spread out below. I then follow the ridge to Roc la Tour before dropping back down to the banks of the Meuse and walking in the other direction. The trail soon climbs into the woods leading up to the rock formations called Les 4 Fils Aymon.

Legend says that these four brothers fled the court of Charlemagne after accidentally killing his nephew. Bayard, a magic horse, carried all the brothers on its back, leaping across hills and valleys, and they took refuge in the Ardennes forest. With the help of their cousin, the wizard Maugis, they built the castle Montessor. But Charlemagne soon discovered where they were and they were forced to flee again.

Trails and footpaths

sculpture by Albert Poncin representing the four brothers and their horse.

Just above the village of Bogny-sur-Meuse, on the original site of the castle, is a monumental sculpture by Albert Poncin representing the four brothers and their horse. I descend and cross the river into the village and then a steep climb leads to two fantastic viewpoints, the Point de Vue de L’Hermitage and the even more impressive Rocher de 7 Villages. It’s then a gentle amble down back to Monthermé for a welcome glass of the local beer.

The Park counts over 1000km of marked footpaths, some easy but others more challenging. These include four GR’s, long distance trails – the GR12 connects Amsterdam to Paris and the GR354 goes all to way to Santiago de Compostella following the Way of St James. I don’t think I’ll be taking any of those in the future, but I’d love to come back and explore the region further.

Rupert Parker is a writer, photographer, cameraman & TV Producer. His special interests are food & travel & he writes about everything from wilderness adventure to gourmet spa tours. Read about his latest adventures on his website Planet Appetite.

Useful information

Ardennes wesbite has information about the region.

L’Auberge de l’Abbaye in Signy-l’Abbaye is close to the forest and has good food.

Chambre d’hôtes Le Point de Chute in Hautes-Rivières has local specialities and is handy for Monthermé.

Restaurant Gastronomique Chez Toshi in Charleville-Mézières has excellent French cuisine with a Japanese twist.

Want more France?

Discover more fabulous destinations in France with our free magazine The Good Life France

Love France? Have a listen to our podcast – everything you want to know about France and more!

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Guide to the prettiest towns of Alsace https://thegoodlifefrance.com/guide-to-the-prettiest-towns-of-alsace/ Thu, 20 Jul 2023 10:46:31 +0000 https://thegoodlifefrance.com/?p=234325 A guide to the best villages, vineyards and castles of Alsace by award winning photographer Jeremy Flint. The north-eastern French region of Alsace is a place of scenic splendour and historical wonder. Picturesque small towns, colourful half-timbered houses and vineyards carpet the landscape. Away from the conventional travel routes of Paris, Provence and the Côte […]

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Village of Riquewihr, nestled in the vineyards of Alsace

A guide to the best villages, vineyards and castles of Alsace by award winning photographer Jeremy Flint.

The north-eastern French region of Alsace is a place of scenic splendour and historical wonder. Picturesque small towns, colourful half-timbered houses and vineyards carpet the landscape. Away from the conventional travel routes of Paris, Provence and the Côte d’Azur, this cultural corner is less than 6 hour’s drive from Calais. It’s one of the most beautiful and undiscovered places in France. Alsace borders Germany and Switzerland, and lies on the west bank of the river Rhine, between the Rhine and the Vosges mountains with Lorraine and Franche Comté to the west.

There are many wonderful locations to visit in Alsace. This guide highlights the most impressive sights to see and capture on camera within the region.

Alsace Wine Route

A tour along the Route des Vins d’Alsace (Alsace wine route) uncovers some of the best things to discover in the area. The route spans the wine growing area over 170km and five regions from near Strasbourg in the north to just south of Colmar. This is one of France’s oldest and most popular drive, and traverses the heart of the region. The journey takes you through a multi-coloured landscape of luxurious green vines. You’ll spot perched castles and impressive mountains. Stop off at charming villages. And savour, swirl and purchase aromatic Alsace vintages at one of the many roadside wine cellars.

Strasbourg

Strasbourg in the old district

Alsace comprises a mix of French and German heritage reflecting each country’s control of the area over the centuries. The wonderful blend of French and German culture is evident in the fairy-tale towns and villages that line the route with their half-timbered houses and cobblestone streets. Set on the Rhine, Strasbourg is one of the finest medieval towns in Northeast France. It’s also one of the most photogenic places you can visit in Alsace. With its historical monuments and striking architecture, the city’s finest building Notre-Dame Cathedral should be top of your list. Don’t miss Strasbourg’s historic centre the Grande Île (large island). At this UNESCO World Heritage site you can stroll through atmospheric alleyways and admire elegant buildings and historic churches before enjoying the café-filled squares.

Ribeauvillé

South of Strasbourg, Ribeauvillé and Riquewihr are two of the most beautiful villages in France. And, they are very close to each other. Ribeauvillé is a Route des Vins must, encompassed by vineyards and mountains. Its impressive buildings and fortified castles are the main draw. Don’t miss the the 18th century Hôtel de Ville (town hall) where you can see a prestigious collection of silver goblets. And also don’t miss the well-maintained Tour des Bouchers (Butchers’ tower). Perched high on a mountainside overlooking the medieval village, Saint Ulrich Castle stands proud. It’s the oldest and best-preserved castle of its kind, surrounded by an endless forested landscape.

Riquewihr

Taking a historic walk through the elegant Medieval ramparts,. Explore hidden courtyards. And admire the brightly coloured architecture. Riquewihr is a truly enchanting village. Venture onto the neighbouring hills to get a real sense of Riquewihr’s chocolate box lid pretty looks and to appreciate its peaceful nature.

For centuries, the vineyards of Riquewihr and Ribeauvillé have produced some of the most incredible wines ever made. Wine lovers will adore the fresh and full-bodied Grand Cru appellation varieties, synonymous with the region including the local Kirchberg de Ribeauvillé, Osterberg and Geisberg.

Hunawihr

Each village is full of unique and colourful buildings combined with traditional character, and Hunawihr is no exception. It’s situated a mere 2km from Ribeauvillé and Riquewihr. The highlight of Hunawihr is its fortified church Saint-Jacques-le-Majeur. Sitting amongst vineyards on a hillside at the edge of the village, it’s incredibly photogenic. After witnessing this fantastic sight, head into the walled hamlet. Don’t miss the Schickardt House, the Renaissance Town Hall and the Fountain of St. Hune. Last but not least, visit the cellars of this well-established wine-producing village to sample the exceptional liquor. Hunawihr is also home to a stork re-introduction centre so keep your eyes peeled and you will likely spot storks in nature.

Château du Haut-Koenigsbourg

An alternative castle worth visiting, located in the Orschwiller commune, 10 minutes from Ribeauvillé is the medieval Château du Haut-Koenigsbourg. It sits a whopping 757 metres above the Alsace plains. You can explore the furnished fortress and discover its medieval weapon collections. Then scale the summit of the bastion for fantastic views over the Vosges mountains and the Black Forest beyond.

Saint-Hippolyte

At the foot of the Haut Koenigsbourg, Saint-Hippolyte is a wonderfully traditional village. Think timbered houses and quintessential Alsatian architecture. The 14th century parish church was modified in the 15th century by having a bell tower added to it in 1822. This makes it an extremely photogenic church and an incredible piece of Italian gothic architecture. Within the village’s old medieval walls, you will see the Tour des Cigognes (Stork’s tower) topped with nesting stalks. Don’t miss the town hall and a fountain, dating back to 1555, that adorns the square.

Colmar

The beautiful town of Colmar makes for a great day trip along the Alsace wine route. It’s well-preserved old town, plentiful architectural landmarks and winding canals offer excellent opportunities for photography. Take a stroll along the Grand Rue (high street) for shots of rainbow-coloured houses. And explore Petite Venise (the Little Venice quarter) on foot or by rowing boat for its narrow street and charming canal views.

Massif des Vosges – Vosges mountains

To the west of Colmar, the enchanting forests and softly rounded pastures of the Vosges Mountain range are often cloaked in mist and make a great subject for photography at any time of the year. With secluded lakes and refreshing views, the mountain range is a fantastic adventure playground. You’ll find this a great base for walking adventures and mountain-biking where you can experience varied landscapes and summit nature trails. Driving the Route des Crêtes, an 89 km road in the Vosges Mountains that passes through the Parc Naturel Régional des Ballons des Vosges ensures idyllic views. Hike up to the peak of Grand Ballon, the highest point in the region at 1424 metres for breath-taking panoramas.

Wherever you choose to visit in Alsace, you will not be disappointed with its scenic splendour, architectural delights, and wonderful half-timbered houses.

Jeremy Flint is an award-winning professional photographer and writer specialising in travel, landscape and location photography. His work is published extensively in National Geographic Traveller Lonely Planet and Country Life amongst others. He is a five-time finalist in Travel Photographer of the Year, Association of Photographers Discovery Award Winner and National Geographic Traveller Grand Prize Winner.

Want more France?

Discover more fabulous destinations in France with our free magazine The Good Life France

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All rights reserved. This article may not be published, broadcast, rewritten (including translated) or redistributed without written permission.

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The Storks of Alsace https://thegoodlifefrance.com/the-storks-of-alsace/ Fri, 30 Dec 2022 12:27:10 +0000 https://thegoodlifefrance.com/?p=196235 Take a stroll through the villages of Alsace in search of the famous storks… Eight AM. It was the first day of my multi-day walking journey along the wine route of Alsace. Anticipation filled my heart. One of the smallest regions of France, Alsace is big on wonders. There are many hilltop castles, tranquil forests, […]

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Pretty village in Alsace

Take a stroll through the villages of Alsace in search of the famous storks…

Eight AM. It was the first day of my multi-day walking journey along the wine route of Alsace. Anticipation filled my heart. One of the smallest regions of France, Alsace is big on wonders. There are many hilltop castles, tranquil forests, picture-book-pretty villages and restaurants that serve hearty Alsatian dishes paired with excellent local wines.

As I left the already bustling cobbled streets of Eguisheim behind, I lost myself in the vast vineyards that carpet the surrounding hills. Over the next few days walking from one village to the next, I would find myself devoid of human contact. But never so alone that I was completely without company. Silently gliding with the wind above me, I observed the distinct long red beaks and the black-tipped wings of the famed white storks as they accompanied me on most of my journey.

Storks of Alsace

Storks nesting on a church spire in Alsace

Visit Alsace in spring or summer and you’ll spot giant nests on rooftops, roadside poles and church towers in almost every village, town and city. Alsace is home to storks which migrate each year from Africa to spend the warmer months in Europe. They seem to particularly like the region’s natural environment.

The storks are faithful, not only to their spouse, but to their dwelling. They return every year to the same nest after their laborious long distance journey. The male arrives first, ensuring the nest is of optimum condition before the female joins him. Their young inherit the migratory instinct and begin their own journey back south in autumn. Amazingly, when the parents make their own path back, they know exactly where to find their offspring.

Telling of times

Stork sign, Alsace

These birds have become somewhat of an oracle of the time of the year for farming activities, much like the groundhog of America. Stork abundance signifies a good year to come. A lack of storks can mean some hardship in living conditions.

The locals are friendly to storks. Many of the nests are formed on top of iron cages put there specially for the storks to move in. Perhaps it isn’t all for the storks though. If a stork decides to nest on top of a house, it is believed that good fortune (or a baby, if you wish for it) will come to those who live in this house.

The obsession with storks doesn’t stop at encouraging nest-making. Throughout Alsace, storks feature as names of hotels and restaurants, mountain bike trails and walking tours. There’s even a theme park dedicated to storks.

Walking from village to village in the spring, the sight of majestic birds sitting on their nests looking graceful and proud, was a constant feature.

Bird of Peace

 

Alsace has had a long association with its storks, known as  störig in Alsatian, with a folktale dating back to 817. Louis the Pious, Emperor of the Carolingian Empire, wanted to divide his land among his three sons. Unfortunately, he was persuaded by his second wife to gift the full entitlement to her son only. This caused the other two sons to wage war against their father.

The peaceful storks saw the devastation and bloodshed that followed. And with blood staining their beaks and feet as they surveyed the land, decided to dip the tip of their wings in black and lose their voice in mourning. Storks have remained silent ever since.

Conservation of the white stork

Mute from birth, storks communicate by body language and clapping their beaks. A fact that I learned at the NaturOparC, a stork sanctuary and wildlife education centre in the village of Hunawihr.

In the 1970s, due to human expansion and loss of habitat, the stork population in Alsace hovered between extinction and survival. At one point there were less than ten breeding pairs sighted throughout the region. In 1983, a stork re-introduction programme was begun. One of the first repopulation centres was established in Cernay. Today, 30 stork couples are often seen flying around the town centre along the river looking for food.

Today, the region of Alsace is home to more than 600 couples.

NaturOparC was part of this successful program. It continues to provide a safe, open sanctuary for storks that come to nest in the treetops. Other than the storks undergoing medical treatment, the birds are free to come and go as they please, and the fact that so many stay is a sign that the environment is ideal for them.

Strategically built ladders and walkways allowed me to approach some of the nests at a safe distance (for the storks) and view them up close. Watching the storks relaxing in their nests, sleeping, preening, clapping their beaks – perhaps a couple in argument over whose turn it was to look after the baby – was a fairy tale moment, truly captivating.

The wine bringers

No visit to Alsace is complete without going to a few wine cellars for some tasting. And it is also of no surprise, that the storks have a beak in the wine business too.

“Oh, there are plenty of storks this year,” chuckled the bartender at the Bleger winery in Saint-Hippolyte, a town famous for Alsace’s only red wine, Pinot Noir. “When there are plenty of storks in spring, you know we are going to have a good harvest in autumn.”

Not only do the storks symbolise fertility, the Alsatian consider the storks to be the bringer of luck and wealth, and for the many winemakers of the region, they also bring a year of good harvest, meaning more wine for everyone.

You can visit NaturOparC in Hunawihr as part of the Inntravel self-guided walking itinerary in Alsace. For more information visit: www.inntravel.co.uk

Amy McPherson is a London based travel writer whose work has been featured in international publications. Cats, cycling and food features heavily in her writing and her blog at: www.footprintsandmemories.com

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Guebwiller’s colourful Christmas traditions https://thegoodlifefrance.com/guebwillers-colourful-christmas-traditions/ Sun, 06 Nov 2022 09:48:55 +0000 https://thegoodlifefrance.com/?p=190011 Looking for an alternative to a traditional white Christmas in France? Follow north-west France’s Roman Route, its Route des Cretes (summits) or Route des Orgues – route of church organs and sacred music. They all end up in the Florival or Launch Valley of the Est region of the Haut Rhin of south Alsace where, […]

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Town square of the Guebwiller flooded with blue lights for Christmas

Looking for an alternative to a traditional white Christmas in France? Follow north-west France’s Roman Route, its Route des Cretes (summits) or Route des Orgues – route of church organs and sacred music.

They all end up in the Florival or Launch Valley of the Est region of the Haut Rhin of south Alsace where, if you time your arrival for December, you will guarantee yourself to have a uniquely blue Christmas – even if it’s snowing.

Going potty for pottery and turning a shade of blue for Christmas

Every year in December, everything and everyone turns blue in the small Alsatian town of Guebwiller. To find this little town, head twelve miles north-west of Mulhouse, twenty-five south west of Colmar and five from the le Grand Ballon, the highest point of the Vosges mountain range with its eight ski slopes.

Every year it’s the same – people turn blue. Faces are turquoise and hands and fingers a sickly shade of manganese violet.

Not because of the cold, windburn, or an off-piste ski tan. And not because of the liquorice-scented gluhwein is served nightly at Guebwiller’s Christmas market along with roasted chestnuts.

This is all about paying tribute to a local Art Deco potter. And his famous pioneering glaze.

Theodore Deck (1823-1891) became renowned for his ceramic vessels. He created them using traditional Islamic processes like the “Iznik” style, used to decorate many of Istanbul’s ancient mosques.

Deck included white alkaline to create his signature “bleu de Deck.” It is a distinctive glaze mix of potash, soda carbonate, and chalk, which produces a lavish, deep turquoise blue after firing. In 1887, Deck published a treatise on tin-glazed pottery entitled “La Faïence”.

Global influences

In nineteenth century Britain, Minton similarly revived tin-glazed pottery in the style of Renaissance Italian maiolica following their employment of a French ceramicist in 1849.

Théodore Deck made his living from making tile stoves at a factory in Paris. He revived the lost art of transparent enameling and, working at Sevres, passed on the new aesthetics to ceramicists, Edmond Lachenal and Émile Decoeur. Deck’s faience work was inspired by Saint-Porchaire wares as well as Assyrian, Hispano-Moresque, Chinese, Japanese, Italian Renaissance and Persian ceramics.

Guebwiller pays homage to Deck

Until Twelfth Night Guebwiller’s neo-classical red sandstone 1761 Eglise Notre-Dame is lit blue in celebration of the ceramicist. So is the town hall and other buildings. Beside the church, the museum – in an old canonical building and home of a family of silk ribbon makers, has a collection of 500 of Deck’s famous faience pieces.

What to see in Guebwiller

Guebwiller’s history is linked to the abbey of Murbach built in 727. Most of the current city is built around the Romanesque church of Saint-Leger and Burgstall castle. Enclosed by ramparts between 1270 and 1287, Guebwiller dates largely from the thirteenth century. During the French Revolution, the abbey’s assets were sold to industrial developers and Guebwiller became the second industrial centre after Mulhouse.

Its former Dominican monastery dates to the fourteenth century. The nave is decorated with murals.  The acoustics are reputed to be among the best in Europe which can be verified if you have a heavy cold and are suffering from bouts of sneezing.

Or have eaten too much sauerkraut too quickly.

As well as Deck’s masterpieces, the  town –  at the southerly end of the Alsace Wine Route – has four “Grand Crus” ( Spiegel , Kessel , Kitterle, Saering). All the local vineyards offer tastings of their own masterpieces of viticultural art. There’s “moulleux”, “Cremant” sparkling, sweet “vendanges tardives” (late harvest) and “selections of des grains”. The best include Schlumberger Domaine, the Ollwiller vineyard at Wuenheim, Orschwir, Bollenburg and the Noble Valley as well as the cellars of Leon Boesch, Renee Flack, Camille Braun and Materne Haegelin.

If you’re feeling peckish, try family-run “Taverna des Vignerons” and “Jardin des Sens” which offer lighter, easier-on-the-colon options to hearty pork shin, pork knuckle, stuffed pigs trotters and beef slabs with an alp of sauerkraut and the famous lengthy, bendy sausages.

What to see near Guebwiller

Thann, 25km from Guebwiller on the river Thur is the start or finish of the “Route des Vins”.  Its well-known for its storks nests, 1411 Witches’ Tower and late Middle Ages Collegiale Saint-Thiebaut. And nearby, Eguisheim is the  definitive Alsatian town. Half-timbered buildings, “winstubs”, year-round window boxes, cobblestone streets and a charming Christmas market. It could be a backcloth for any Christmas pantomime.

A good base to tour southern Alsace is Dominique and William Pralong’s 1858 “Domaine de Beaupre”, once the De Bay family mansion, textile manufacturers in Guebwiller. Now it is an “artistic space”, holding concerts, recitals and art events, displaying the works of lesser known artists. Even the paintings in your room are for sale.

Bertrand and Florence Gelly’s “Caveau Heuhaus” in Eguisheim is a tasty cellar restaurant offering regional specialties like  tartes flambees or “flammekueche” (Alsatian pizza).

In Soultz, Gregory Rominger’s “Metzgerstuwa” (“butcher’s table”) restaurant adjoins and was once in a butcher’s shop.  One of its specialities is lamb kidneys flambeed in brandy.

So there’s no excuse whatsoever in going to Alsace and not coming back glowing with the good life. And looking like you’ve had a great “Noel Bleu”.

www.ville-guebwiller.fr
www.visit.alsace

By Kevin Piley, a former professional cricketer, now travel writer. He’s also the former chief staff writer of PUNCH magazine and has written for over 600 titles.

It might not surprise you to know that mostly – Christmas in France is all about food… so buckle up, or maybe unbuckle your belt, for a fun, festive and foodie podcast: The A to Z of Christmas in France

Want more France?

Discover more fabulous destinations in France with our free magazine The Good Life France

Love France? Have a listen to our podcast – everything you want to know about France and more!

All rights reserved. This article may not be published, broadcast, rewritten (including translated) or redistributed without written permission.

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What to see and do in Metz, Lorraine https://thegoodlifefrance.com/what-to-see-and-do-in-metz-lorraine/ Sun, 26 Jun 2022 11:22:47 +0000 https://thegoodlifefrance.com/?p=160085  Janine Marsh explores Metz, the historic city of light where a dragon once lived… “Anyone been to Metz?” I asked in my local bar in the Seven Valleys, Pas de Calais. There was silence. Even in France, Metz is not well known and if you’re from outside of France you might not even have heard […]

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Place Saint Louis, Metz

 Janine Marsh explores Metz, the historic city of light where a dragon once lived…

“Anyone been to Metz?” I asked in my local bar in the Seven Valleys, Pas de Calais. There was silence. Even in France, Metz is not well known and if you’re from outside of France you might not even have heard of it.

Metz is in the northeast of France, in the Moselle department. It is the capital of the region formerly known as Lorraine, now joined up with Champagne, Ardennes and Alsace and called Grand Est.

Metz is one of France’s oldest cities with a history going back some 3,000 years and the fact that it is rather under the tourism radar is astonishing. Close to Luxembourg and Germany, it is a superbly gastronomic city. It is historic, architecturally glorious, home to arguably France’s oldest church – the basilica of Saint-Pierre-aux-Nonnains which began life in the 4th century, and a Cathedral which has the largest expanse of stained glass windows in the world. There are magnificent museums including a branch of the Pompidou, the city is surrounded by glorious, mountainous countryside – and yet, it’s less than an hour and a half from Paris.

48 hours in Metz

Metz Train station

Metz is steeped in history and character. It’s a city of architectural contrasts, with a medieval district, classical 18th  century architecture in the Place d’Armes and Palais de Justice, the enormous neo-Romanesque train station built by the Germans at the start of the 20th century, and a modern side too including the extraordinary Pompidou centre behind the station.

It’s a compact city that’s easy to discover on foot, but if you want to take it easy there a free hop-on-hop off navette bus, and  there are loads of cosy cafés and funky bars to tempt you to stop awhile.

The must-sees in Metz

Interior and stained glass windows of Metz Cathedral

The great Gothic cathedral of Metz

 In medieval days, Metz was a mecca for artists and the Cathedral St Etienne, the third highest in France,  beautifully illustrates the skill of stone masons and artisans of the day. Made from golden local Jaumont stone it has stood for more than 800 years (built between 1220-1522). The vast stained glass windows (69,920 sq ft) have earned it the nickname ‘God’s Lantern’. The windows here range from medieval masterpieces by Hermann de Münster and Thiébauld de Lixheim to striking modern panes by Jacques Villon and Marc Chagall. During WWII the windows were removed and stored in crates, sent to Château de Dissay, near Poitiers. This didn’t save them however, they were discovered and sent to Germany. Miraculously they were found in a salt mine and returned to their home after the war.

At night the cathedral is illuminated and is one of the reasons the city is known as the Ville Lumières.

Museums of Metz

Housed in an old Carmelite convent, Les Musées de la Cour d’Or contains three museums. The Musée Archaeologique has one of the most important collections of Gallo-Romain archaeology in France including preserved ancient baths preserved. The Musée d’Architecture showcases Romanesque and Gothic pieces. And the Musée des Beaux Arts includes works by a range of prominent artists including Delacroix, Corot and Sargent.

Pompidou Centre

A regional branch of Paris’s Pompidou Centre opened in Metz in 2010. The avante-garde building, which is highlighted by an undulating roof, houses an extensive collection of modern art. The 77-meter high spire is a nod to the year 1977, when the Paris Center Pompidou opened. Modern and contemporary art exhibitions are regularly updated. The centre has a café and a very nice restaurant with a terraced area.

The Imperial Quarter

Between 1902 and 1914, the Imperial Quarter around the train station was built to strict Germanic town planning principals. Originally called Neue Stadt (new city) the area has some of the best preserved examples of German Empire urbanism, especially the luxurious villas on Avenue Foch and the remarkable train station.

The Graoully – Metz’s dragon

The legend goes that a terrible dragon named the Graoully terrorised the people of Metz until the city’s first Bishop, Saint Clement, drowned it. It’s said that the Bishop led the dragon from its lair, along a narrow road to the River Seille, warning onlookers “Taisons-nous/keep quiet, don’t wake the monster.’ Stroll along the pretty cobbled street of what is now called rue Taison, and if you look up, away from the many boutiques and cafés, you’ll spot the Graoully, hanging above you!

Don’t miss

Place de la Comedie, Metz

Porte des Allemands and the ramparts. The old city gate (Gate of the Germans) and a miniature fortified medieval castle spans the river Seille. The ramparts once formed a 7km enclosure punctuated by 18 gates and 38 towers. You can follow the ramparts path along the river Moselle.

Marina Metz

Head to the Quai des Régates and take an electric boat tour. You can even combine it with wine tasting or aperitifs. And take a break in the park at Metz Marina, Port de Plaisance.

Les Halles: The U-shaped covered market on Place de la Cathédrale has a superb range of food including a shop selling local Mirabelle (plum) brandy. Take a break at the market bistro L’Assiette du Marché. Or pick up something delicious like fuseau lorrain, a soft garlic sausage that’s a regional specialty from Chez Mauricette opposite.

The squares: In the heart of Metz, renovated squares are a great place to relax. Try the Place de Chambre (nicknamed the gourmet square of Metz), the Place d’Armes (the medieval Place Saint-Louis, and the Place de la République. Place Jeanne d’Arc is just perfect for summer drinks and dining

Where to eat

El Theatris in Place de la Comédie on the Petit Saulcy island in the centre of Metz. Here they serve gastronomic food with an emphasis on local, seasonal products. One of the dining rooms is the former office of the Marquis de Lafayette, French aristocrat and American Revolution War hero. He was appointed commander of the French army at Metz in 1791.

Head out of the city to Sarreguemines (around an hour by car). Once there, indulge in a Michelin starred feast created by Chef Stephan Schneider at the gorgeous 4* hotel Auberge Saint-Walfrid: www.stwalfrid.fr

Where to stay

 4* MGallery La Citadelle Hotel in a former 16th century military building. Superb décor and fabulous views over the cathedral from some rooms. 5 Av. Ney, 57000 Metz

Did you know?

Metz is pronounced Mess which is not a grammar thing – it’s unique to Metz. In fact, says Vivienne Rudd from Metz tourist office, even most Messins (people of Metz) don’t know why it’s pronounced this way. Metz was called Divodorum Médiomatricorum in Gallo-Roman – a bit of a mouthful and horrendous for inscribers of the day. In the 5th century, it was shortened to Mettis then to Mets, Mèz, Mès, Metz and Mess in the 14th century. A recent article suggests that 17th century French printers wanted to use the German “ß” symbol to represent the double “s”. However they didn’t have a key. So they replaced it with something that looked (a bit) like it: “tz”, but the old pronunciation stuck… Why? Because it’s easier to say!

Useful information

Trains to Metz run from Gare de l’Est, Paris and take from 83 minutes.

www.tourisme-metz.com

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Guide to Colmar in Alsace https://thegoodlifefrance.com/guide-to-colmar-in-alsace/ Mon, 23 Aug 2021 10:33:02 +0000 https://thegoodlifefrance.com/?p=113487 Colmar in Alsace is irresistibly pretty. The old town is brimming with wonky ancient buildings. The gentle river is perfect for boat rides. Flower bedecked streets and squares vie for your attention. There are museums galore as well as outstanding bars and restaurants. You’ll find something to please just about everyone in this photogenic city… […]

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Bridge over river in Colmar flowers in baskets all along the river

Colmar in Alsace is irresistibly pretty. The old town is brimming with wonky ancient buildings. The gentle river is perfect for boat rides. Flower bedecked streets and squares vie for your attention. There are museums galore as well as outstanding bars and restaurants. You’ll find something to please just about everyone in this photogenic city…

Colmar’s historic old quarter

River in Colmar lined with blooming flowers and half-timbered houses

Colmar’s old town quarter is crossed by cobbled streets lined with half timbered houses and renaissance manor houses decorated with flowers. To the South of the town centre, where the Lauch River diverges from its canal, is where tanners, winemakers and fishmongers used to make their homes and ply their trades. The river is crossed by two bridges from which there are wonderful views across to rows of half-timbered houses. Pop into Colmar’s old covered market for regional products. And take a boat trip to get great views of the city.

Home to the designer of the Statue of Liberty

Fountain Schwendi, Colmar topped by a statue of a man holding a bunch of grapes

Musée Bartholdi is dedicated to sculptor, Frederic Auguste Bartholdi and is located in his former home. He is famous for designing the Statue of Liberty. He also created the monumental Lion of Belfort as well as the statue of Vercongetorix in Clermont-Ferrand, two of France’s most popular emblems.

You can see more of his sculptures around Colmar, including the Schwendi Fountain. It’s topped by Bartholdi’s statue of Austrian Holy Roman Empire commander, Lazarus von Schwendi holding vines in his right hand. Schwendi ruled in the 16th century from the Chateau du Hohlandsbourg a few miles to the west of the city. Legend has it that he brought the pinot gris wine grape to Alsace.

What to see in Colmar

Maison Pfister in Colmar a blend of gothic and renaisssance architecture

In a city brimming with fairytale pretty houses, Maison Pfister is a knockout. Constructed in 1537, for wealthy hat-maker Ludwig Schurer it manages to be quaintly cute and gorgeously grand at the same time. The Renaissance architecture is wonderfully preserved with 16th-century frescoes in muted colours, and medallions on the facade. The turreted spiral stairway and wooden gallery on the third floor are magnificent.

The Maison des Têtes – the house of heads – is tucked between two quite ordinary French houses. It’s a manor house that takes its name from the 106 carved stone heads on its facade. Originally built for Anton Burger, a rich merchant who was also Mayor of Colmar at the start of the 17th century. At the top is a statued called the Tonnelier de Colmar, a city symbol representing a cooper, maker of barrels. It was designed by Bartholdi and placed there in 1902.

Opposite the House of Heads, pop into the quirky Hansi Museum. Discover the art of ‘Uncle’ Hansi, with a pretty reconstruction of an Alsatian village and artwork by Jean-Jacques Waltz, known as Hansi, famous for his depictions of old Alsace.

Toys and Museums

Pretty pink half-timbered house in Colmar

If you’re a toy fan then head to Colmar’s former cinema. It’s now a museum of toys and models from every era since the 1800’s. Channel your inner nostalgia with a range of video game consoles from the 80’s and 90’s. There are meccano buildings, Barbie dolls, Lego sets and robots. On the upper floor is a whopping great working model railway network. It covers 120 square metres. (If you’re a fan of model railways and trains, then don’t miss the Train Museum at Mulhouse, around 35 mins drive from Colmar).

A stunning 13th century Dominican convent is home to one of France’s best regional museums – the Unterlinden Museum. An incredible collection which features seven millennia’s worth of history including art from the late-gothic and renaissance eras. There’s also a Gallo-Roman mosaic, Romanesque capitals, paintings by Picasso, Renoir and Monet, engravings by Albrecht Durer, and a stunning 17th-century painted harpsichord. Don’t miss the museum’s Schongauer Café which is in the former swimming pool building built in 1906.

The wine route

Vineyards on the Alsace wine route, golden leaves in autumn

Alsace has one of the most beautiful wine regions in the world. Tucked away in the east of France, on the border with Germany, the vineyards produce fabulous wines. The Alsatian Wine Route is 170 kilometres long and flows through picturesque villages, castles and glorious countryside. Discover the wine culture, meet the wine-growers, visit the caves and taste some of the finest Rieslings ever made.

More on Alsace

What to see and do in Petite France Strasbourg The old district of Strasbourg is utterly fabulous.
What to see and do in Mulhouse
Things to do in winter in Alsace
Where to eat out in Strasbourg
The astonishing car museum of Mulhouse
Riquewihr in photos – the pretty little town on the Alsace wine route is stupendously lovely…

Want more France?

Discover more fabulous destinations in France with our free magazine The Good Life France

Love France? Have a listen to our podcast – everything you want to know about France and more!

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What to see and do in Petite France, Strasbourg https://thegoodlifefrance.com/what-to-see-and-do-in-petite-france-strasbourg/ Mon, 20 Jan 2020 07:34:31 +0000 https://thegoodlifefrance.com/?p=79091 Perfectly preserved, the picturesque Petite France district in the city of Strasbourg, Alsace, north east France, is one of those places where visitors, on seeing it for the first time, stop in their tracks and whisper “wow”. Pretty half-timbered houses, beautifully decorated bars and restaurants and the sparkling water of the River Ill make this […]

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Half timbered houses and open air cafes line the banks of a river in Petite France district Strasbourg

Perfectly preserved, the picturesque Petite France district in the city of Strasbourg, Alsace, north east France, is one of those places where visitors, on seeing it for the first time, stop in their tracks and whisper “wow”.

Pretty half-timbered houses, beautifully decorated bars and restaurants and the sparkling water of the River Ill make this a magnet for tourists. But, it wasn’t always this way…

History of Petite France, the old district of Strasbourg

Cycle leaning against a fence outside a half timbered house with a balcony full of plantsThe area where Petite France is located was once popular with fishermen, tanners and millers, home to workers and the poor. Washhouses lined the sides of the river. Even at the turn of the 20th century, there were still around 100 wash houses in use.

I wonder what they would think of the fact that this area is now a trendy, much loved tourist attraction.

The name Petite France isn’t anywhere as romantic as you might think. It’s an island which, in the 15th century was where soldiers of French king Charles VII were sent to a hospital which specialised in treating syphilis. It was nicknamed the “French disease”, and the island became “Petite France”.

So, it was considered the sort of place you really didn’t choose to go to and as a result was pretty much left alone. It was a poor area and largely abandoned by the authorities. In fact, if it weren’t for some artists who had discovered just how pretty the area was, it might not be there today as it was only due to their protests that some of the most iconic buildings we now know and love, weren’t demolished by the city council.

It wasn’t until the 1970s that things began to look up for Petite France. The area was pedestrianised, making the enchanting cobbled streets and pretty footbridges which crisscross the river, perfect for strolling. Cafés, bars and restaurants opened. Pleasure boats took passengers alongside the beautiful medieval buildings. It’s the perfect place for a gastronomic stop with restaurants serving traditional dishes and Alsace wines.

Petite France is now part of a UNESCO listed heritage site, full of charm – and a must-see visit if you’re in Strasbourg.

What to see and do in Petite France

Colourful medieval houses and a wash house on the river converted to a restaurant terrace, Strasbourg

It’s a small island and easy to wander about. You should definitely allow time for a break at the many eateries to enjoy the views. And to shop at the quirky boutiques (including an all year-round Christmas shop). The architecture is astonishingly well-preserved, one of the finest buildings, the Tanners House built in 1572, now a restaurant, is one of the most famous landmarks of the area. It really is a fairy-tale looking place, where every street is a photo-worthy opp.

Around the island is also magnificent. The 13th century “Covered Bridges”, built for city defence but no longer covered, are great for a panoramic view over Petite France.

A series of medieval stone bridges with tall towers cross a river in Strasbourg

Opposite the Covered Bridges, is the Barrage Vauban (Dam). It was built to military plans supplied by Louis XIV’s genius military engineer, Vauban. It could flood the area if the town were under attack. Climb to the top of the dam where there’s a terrace from which the views are truly sublime, with the great Gothic Cathedral in the background.

Behind the Vauban Dam, which is beautifully lit at night, is the Museum of Modern Art which is well worth seeking out.

At the edge of Petite France, you’ll find the Quai Saint-Nicolas. Built in the 15th century. From here it’s a just a few minutes’ walk to the Musée Historique de la Ville de Strasbourg, the Cathedral, the Musée des Beaux Arts and the fabulous cobbled streets of the Cathedral district.

How to get to Petite France

From Paris, the fast train takes from just 1 hour 46 minutes, with 16 trains a day. It’s a short walk to the Petite France district and to the main sites of Strasbourg including the Cathedral.

You could do a day trip from Paris – but longer is better as there really is a lot to see.

More on Strasbourg

What to see and do in Strasbourg
Where to eat out in Strasbourg
Top Museums in Strasbourg
Christmas market Strasbourg
Winter in Alsace Top visits

Useful websites

Strasbourg tourismFrance. fr

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