In 1755, the fountains in the city of Nancy, flowed with wine to celebrate the inauguration of one of the finest squares in the world. If you lived in Paris then and wanted to join in the fun, it would take several days to make the 240-mile journey to Lorraine, northeast France. Now the fast train whisks you to this dazzling city in less than 90 minutes. And it’s a detour that’s well worth taking for the amazing architecture alone, three beautiful UNESCO-listed squares of “outstanding universal value” which, says the organisation, “constitute a unique artistic achievement, a veritable masterpiece of creative genius. But that’s not all Nancy has to offer. It’s also the Art-nouveau capital of France, the belle epoque, nature-inspired art form that transformed the decorative arts at the start of the 20th century.
Place Stanislas Nancy
Let’s get back to that square which caused wine to flow. It too was nouveau in its way though it was long before the days of Art nouveau. The story begins with a king who had no kingdom. Stanislas Leszczynski, former ruler of Poland, homeless after being deposed, was offered the Dukedom of Lorraine by his son-in-law, King Louis XV of France. The new Duke embraced his life in the city of Nancy and set out to link the city’s old town, the medieval district and ‘new’ town, the 16th century Renaissance district, creating an urban landscape that was way ahead of its time, gloriously Rococo, and echoing the opulence of Versailles. It was a majestic showpiece, even if he was no longer a King. UNESCO says the development of Nancy constitutes the “oldest and most characteristic example of a modern capital where an enlightened monarch proved to be sensitive to the needs of the public.”
The architectural transformation of Nancy by the Duke was to honour Louis XV. Place Stanislas, originally named Place Royale, is the biggest and most famous of three grand squares. Lining it are classical buildings including the statuesque Opera House, which has a sumptuous interior, and the Fine Arts Museum. Extravagant fountains (no wine, water these days!) are set into the walls of the square which are accessed through grand, gilded wrought iron gates.
Though you may be dazzled by the style and beauty of this square, don’t miss a visit to the place de la Carrière, where noblemen once raced horses, home to the Palais du Gouvernement and classical townhouses. And, the Place d’Alliance where you can sit under a leafy tree while admiring the architecture and the fountain inspired by the fountain in Piazza Navona in Rome.
Art Nouveau heaven
Not content with gorgeous classical architecture, Nancy is also a land of art nouveau glory, the voluptuous movement that pays homage to nature and thrived in Europe from the 1880’s to the start of World War I. Three of the biggest names in art nouveau, Gallé, Daum and Majorelle had their glassware and furniture making factories in Nancy.
At the Musée des Beaux-Arts de Nancy in Place Stanislas, there’s a splendid collection of art including Picasso, Matissse, Monet and Manet, as well as a fabulous collection of art nouveau pieces, including 300 pieces of Daum glass (Daum have a boutique-museum close by). Daum was active in the School of Nancy, an association of artists, artisans and manufacturers, which was established in 1901 to promote Art nouveau with the philosophy of “art in everything” and “art for everyone.” Artists experimented with natural shapes — flowers, vines, birds, insects — and the idea of using industrial techniques and materials to create beauty in commonplace items – definitely aligning with French art de vivre, the art of appreciating the beauty of simple of things, living life with elegance and passion.
The founder of the School of Nancy was Emile Gallé, an innovative glass maker whose reputation spread far and wide, motivating American artist Louis Comfort Tiffany to visit the Galle factory in Nancy. At the Musée de l’Ecole de Nancy you can see a collection of Gallé’s work in an art nouveau mansion which is kitted out in the most amazing period furniture, from stained glass and objets d’art to the “Dawn and Dusk” bed, which has an unforgettable moth theme.
At Villa Majorelle at 1 rue Louis-Majorelle, the former home of cabinet maker Louis Majorelle feels as if you’ve stepped back in time. The house features flamboyant flower-shaped chimney pots, writhing wrought iron balconies and rooms filled with fabulous furniture.
Architectural highlights
In fact, everywhere you go in Nancy you’ll find not just art nouveau and classical buildings to admire but, going back even further in time, the medieval old town features the wonderfully pointy-towered 13th-century Craffe Gate, the last remnant of the town’s medieval fortifications and one of two gates to the city. There’s also the 15th-century Cordelier Church, and remnants of an early 16th-century palace.
This melange of glorious styles makes Nancy one of the most architecturally exquisite cities in France, like a mini-Paris but with its own unique and gorgeous look and feel.
But, this is no staid museum town, it’s a gastronomic destination, brimming with brilliant restaurants, like the Excelsior, a complete 1911 period piece with stained glass windows, shimmering polished brass chandeliers and Majorelle furniture (there is no piano by him here but in the Musée de l’Ecole de Nancy). There are friendly bars, cultural venues galore, and fabulous boutiques. Nancy, one of the greenest and most floral cities in France, is also a wellness destination, the only French city to have a thermal spa in the heart of a metropolitan area. There really is something to please just about everyone in this ravishing city.
Top tip: Get a City Pass (online) or from the tourist office. It gives you access to all museums and cultural venues, a free guided tour, audio-guide, offers and discounts in shops, plus an app with loads of details for what to see and do, where to eat, parks you can relax in, discounted public transport (note all trams and buses in Nancy are free on weekends), and more.
Book a tour, get a map, find out what’s on and pick up a city pass from the tourist office which is located in Place Stanislas: nancy-tourisme.fr/en
