Make the most of a short stay in Reims, the effervescent city where the Kings of France were once crowned but where Champagne now rules!

Medieval Reims, the capital of Champagne, is the home to many of the big-name producers of the world’s favourite sparkling alcohol – champagne. So if you only have 24 hours in this sparkling city, the one thing you must do is visit a cellar for a tasting.

Short stay in Reims – Champagne visits

There’s tons of choice with around 155 miles of cellars in Reims, and everyone has their favourite maison de Champagne. I love the cathedral-like Ruinart cellars on the outskirts of the city, the oldest Champagne house still working. Then there’s Vranken-Pommery with its 11 miles of cellars including galleries carved out of the chalk by the Romans. Taitinger, Lanson, Veuve Clicquot-Ponsardin and GH Martel, and several more.

Some Champagne house visits are by appointment only, most are closed on Sundays but if that’s the day you’re there, GH Mumm (www.mumm.com), a 15-minute walk from the city centre, offer cellar tours, a fascinating museum, and tastings from 10am to 5.30pm. They keep a staggering 35 million bottles of Cordon Rouge and other labels underneath their headquarters in the Rue du Champ-de-Mars.

Champagne is almost a religion here. I reckon you could stop just about anyone in the street, a man walking a dog, a couple out for a stroll, a woman on her way to the market with a trolley, and they would all have an opinion about Champagne – the best producer, whether it should be Brut or not, Blanc de Noirs or Blanc de Blancs. But, I recommend you head to the tourist office for heaps of information on Champagne visits and everything else in Reims. You’ll find details of cellar visit times and a variety of tours (including tours in English), on the Tourist Office website at the end of the article.

Where to pair food with bubbles!

All those bubbles are bound to make you feel a bit peckish and since Reims is a gastronomic city, you won’t find it hard to find somewhere scrumptious. The perfect lunch for me is at Le Bistrot des Anges (www.bistrotdesanges.com) where the locals go, not posh fare but delicious hearty food like ‘bangers and mash’, ‘fish and chips’- and they don’t sound very French, but I promise you, they go perfectly with a glass of chilled Champagne!

And restaurant la Grande Georgette (www.lacasernechanzy.com), opposite Reims Cathedral offers truly excellent food with a classic menu that’s also innovative – the King crab with asparagus cream and yuzu foam is mouth-wateringly delicious. Whatever you do don’t miss the Ratafia de Champagne, a rich liqueur dripped into your glass via a giant pipette from a huge bottle, it’s pure theatre, and utterly delectable.

What to see in Reims

There’s plenty to do in the town which is small enough to wander, though there’s an excellent tram service if you want to save time, and plenty of bike lanes for those who fancy cycling the city streets and even out into the surrounding countryside. Reims features a mix of architectural styles from Renaissance to art deco, and contemporary.

There are great shopping facilities, including a super Saturday morning market in Rue de Mars, the perfect place to pick up some pink biscuits, les biscuits roses, a Reims speciality and traditionally dipped in Champagne. They were invented in 1690, and served at King Louis XVI at his coronation in the city in 1775 – he loved them and had them supplied to the Palace of Versailles!

Several museums will please culture vultures including the fabulous Tau Palace, the former home of the Bishops of Reims. This is also where the Kings stayed while awaiting their coronation in the Cathedral next door, including 12-year-old Louis XV, the first king to drink Champagne. Tau Palace now hosts an exceptional collection of religious artefacts including the Coronation chalice.

You’ll also spot Roman remains as you wander – Reims was an important city in Roman Gaul, called Durocortorum, and the monumental 30m high Mars Gate, originally one of four triumphal arches, is one of the largest known porticos of the Roman world.

Reims Cathedral

The absolute must-see in Reims is one of the world’s most famous churches – the great Gothic Cathedral of Notre-Dame. Listening to the sonorous bells of this working church is mesmerising, and the incredible facade is mind-bogglingly beautiful as you enter under the gaze of a stone angel seemingly beaming with pleasure at church goers.

Inside, as the light shines through the dazzling rose window, kids run up and down the nave, mums and dads ‘shush’ them, tourists from around the globe ‘ooh’ and ‘ah’ at the beauty of this building and its stained-glass windows. The coronations of a mind-boggling 37 Kings of France took place here, beginning with Charlemagne’s son, Louis the Pious in 816, and ending with Charles X in 1825. Charles VII, with Joan of Arc at his side, was crowned here in 1429.

Built over the foundations of a 4^th century church, the Cathedral was begun in 1211 and took almost 100 years to complete. It was shelled by the Germans in the Franco-Prussian War in 1870, and again in World War I, when its dazzling stained-glass windows were destroyed, but rose again to its former glory. The restored cathedral was reopened in 1938 and miraculously avoided the destruction suffered by much of the rest of Reims in World War II.

A truly divine must-see in Reims, a city that sparkles from start to finish.

Get there: You can reach Reims in just 46 minutes by train from Gare de l’Est, Paris.

Stay: Hôtel La Caserne Chanzy (www.lacasernechanzy.com) A former fire station converted into a 5-star spa hotel offers lovely, luxurious rooms and great service (including valet-parking, a real bonus in a city where parking isn’t always easy). There’s also a fabulously glamorous and elegant Champagne bar. And for extra wow factor, ask for a room with a balcony overlooking the Cathedral opposite.

Useful websites: reims-tourisme.com/en; tourisme-en-champagne.co.uk

Janine Marsh is the author of  several internationally best-selling books about France. Her latest book How to be French – a celebration of the French lifestyle and art de vivre, is out now – a look at the French way of life. Find all books on her website janinemarsh.com

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East of Paris lies the region of Champagne – known around the world for its effervescent wine. The most well-known vineyards are in the Marne department, also home to the two major cities of Champagne: Reims and Epernay. Both sit above hundreds of miles of cellars in which several million bottles of Champagne lie waiting to be released and enjoyed by a legion of fans. And around these two Champagne cities is glorious countryside, peppered with farms, unspoiled villages and precious vineyards, where the soul of Champagne resides says Janine Marsh.

Aÿ get a kick from Champagne

Aÿ, pronounced like ‘eye’, is the third most important Champagne wine town in the Marne. As far back as Gallo-Roman times, the Romans arrived in 57 BC, it was already well known for its wine. King Henri IV (1353-1610) called himself “Sire d’Aÿ” and legend has it that he kept a wine press in a house behind the medieval church of St Brice. A stone’s throw from the church is Pressoria – not a museum says the director Victor Canchon, “it’s a sensory journey to the heart of Champagne.” And it’s a fabulous place to start your discovery of Champagne.

Pressoria

No dry exhibition this, quite literally – as it ends with a delicious tasting. Pressoria is housed on the site of a former Pommery Champagne pressing centre. It’s innovative and interactive, fun and fascinating, and great for the whole family. A visit here gives you a marvellous overview of Champagne from the land to the bottle. 10 rooms are dedicated to all things Champagne. Animated vines snake across the floor at your feet, bubbles follow your hands as you run them over the walls; it really is a sensory visit as you taste, touch, see, listen and smell the magic of Champagne. You can easily spend two hours here. Details: pressoria.com/en

And there’s no better place to continue your Champagne voyage of discovery than this exquisite part of the region. There are many producers and growers in the hills around and if you can’t make up your mind which to choose – the Champagne Tour Co. can help with setting up tours, meetings and transport in very posh cars! Very few of the big Champagne houses grow all their own grapes; some grow none. They mainly depend on the 16,000 individual growers in the region. Of the growers, just 4,700 actually produce Champagne and two of the best are Champagne Lallemont-Massonnot in Coulommes-la-Montagne and Champagne Delavenne in the aptly named village of Bouzy.

Champagne tours and tastings

At Champagne Lallement-Massonnot, you can take a superb tour that takes you from the vineyard to the pressing room, past the tanks and into the bottling room. It’s a backstage tour and tells the human story of Champagne production. Plus, you’ll taste some of the finest Champagne ever made, created by 5^th generation Champagne makers Xavier and Marie Lallement.

Jean-Christophe Delavenne of Champagne Delavenne learned about making Champagne from his grandfather and father, and he is passionate about respecting the land, organic and natural production. Just one sip of one of the outstanding Champagne he makes will tell you all you need to know – astonishingly good, it tastes like heaven.

Dine at: Restaurant Calsis next to Pressoria is a must. Big windows overlook hilly vineyards, and it’s always packed with locals enjoying the excellent 3 or 6 course menus, with of course Champagne.

Stay at: Domaine du Chateau in Chigny-les-Roses near Pressoria is no ordinary hotel, it’s a little piece of Paradise, elegant, luxurious and exquisite. The little chateau is so discreetly marked you may miss the sign as I did, but everyone in the village knows it. I arrived under a star-filled sky and the big wood fire was crackling in the cosy salon. There are four rooms and each of them is very different. One is a suite really with a library/sitting room that reminded me of the film “My Fair Lady” and has its own wood fire. My room had a huge terrace overlooking the vineyards and a bathroom with a spiral staircase that wouldn’t look out of place in a Harry Potter scene. There’s also a treehouse you can stay in, plus a pool and spa area.

Whatever you do, don’t miss the chance to experience chef Damien Litaudon’s exquisite dishes. Seriously, seriously special, Michelin level without the theatrics, innovative, impeccable and very, very delicious. Every course is paired with one of the Domaine’s own superb Palmer & Co. champagnes. One of the best meals I’ve ever had.

Find out more about Champagne: tourisme-en-champagne.co.uk

Janine Marsh is the author of  several internationally best-selling books about France. Her latest book How to be French – a celebration of the French lifestyle and art de vivre, is out now – a look at the French way of life. Find all books on her website janinemarsh.com

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Tucked away, in a corner of north-eastern of France, sandwiched between Champagne and Belgium, the French Ardennes are something of a mystery. Dense forests cover almost half of the region and the landscape is gently rolling hills and deep valleys. Rupert Parker goes hiking in the French Ardennes, the perfect way to explore this little known region of France…

Up and Down in the French Ardennes

The French Ardennes area is crossed by the meandering River Meuse, running from north to south, home to fortified castles and churches with numerous colourful town and villages on its banks. The largest of these is the capital, Charleville-Mézières, actually a combination of two former towns.

It’s easy to get here by train and from London, I take Eurostar to Paris, then TGV to Reims and finally a local train to Charleville-Mézières. It takes me around five and a half hours but most of that is spent watching the countryside fly by.

Charleville-Mézières

In 1606, Charles de Gonzague, the Duke of Mantua, founded the city of Charleville as his personal residence, opposite the town of Mézières on the banks of the Meuse. Designed by renowned architect Clément II Métezeau, the city is laid out geometrically, with avenues and elegant squares, reflecting the grandeur and ambition of its founder.

The grandest is the majestic Place Ducale, a splendid square inspired by the Place des Vosges in Paris. It’s lined by arcades, housing elegant shops with a central fountain and it’s a vibrant hub for locals and tourists alike. I stroll through its cobbled streets, cross the river, and admire the impressive 15^th century Basilique Notre-Dame d’Espérance, in Mézières. It contains around 1000 square metres of stained glass created by René Dürrbach, a friend of Picasso.

Arthur Rimbaud, the renowned French poet was born in Charleville on October 20, 1854, and spent his formative years in the town, before running away to Paris when he was seventeen. He died young in Marseilles and his remains were brought back to the town’s cemetery in 1910. His grave, and the house where he grew up, form part of the Rimbaud Trail and there’s an excellent museum dedicated to him in an old watermill on the banks of the Meuse.

Major puppet centre

Charleville is a major international puppetry centre and every two years it hosts one of the largest puppet festivals in the world, the Festival Mondial des Théâtres de Marionnettes (puppet festival) each September. For ten days professional troupes from all over the world stage around fifty shows a day both inside and out. The Puppet Museum has a collection of intricately crafted marionettes and there are occasional performances at the Institut de la Marionnette.

Ardennes Regional Nature Park

The city is the gateway to the Ardennes Regional Nature Park, in the north of the department, with a surface area of 117 200 hectares, and home to 92 small towns. It’s a lush green territory full of forests, hedged farmland, dry grassland, peat bogs, rocky escarpments and rivers. Outdoor leisure activities such as walking, cycling, mountain biking, horse-riding, fishing and kayaking are popular here.

One of the most popular destinations is the 150 hectare Vieilles Forges Lake. It offers a host of water sports including swimming, windsurfing, paddle-boarding and kayaking and you can also fish from its banks. The lake is surrounded by forests and I take the trail running around its shores nearly 12km, an easy afternoon walk. The reward is a refreshing early evening dip, still chilly at the start of summer.

Nearby in the heart of the forest, just outside Signy-l’Abbaye is another circular hike, Le Sentier n°56 “La source de la Pichelotte”. It’s almost all among the trees, a mix of beech and pine, and crosses streams and valleys. I see no other walkers in my four hours of walking with only the birds for company.

The winding Meuse

North of Charleville, the Meuse winds through deep valleys with dramatic wooded cliffs on both sides. The town of Monthermé is right in the heart of the Ardennes Forest, and the river makes a wide loop here. Canoeing, biking and walking are all on offer and the trails are tougher here. The Paths of Legends Loop is a five hour strenuous hike starting and ending in the town.

I start with a steep climb up to the Roche à Sept Heures, worth it for the panoramic views of the river bend, with the town spread out below. I then follow the ridge to Roc la Tour before dropping back down to the banks of the Meuse and walking in the other direction. The trail soon climbs into the woods leading up to the rock formations called Les 4 Fils Aymon.

Legend says that these four brothers fled the court of Charlemagne after accidentally killing his nephew. Bayard, a magic horse, carried all the brothers on its back, leaping across hills and valleys, and they took refuge in the Ardennes forest. With the help of their cousin, the wizard Maugis, they built the castle Montessor. But Charlemagne soon discovered where they were and they were forced to flee again.

Trails and footpaths

Just above the village of Bogny-sur-Meuse, on the original site of the castle, is a monumental sculpture by Albert Poncin representing the four brothers and their horse. I descend and cross the river into the village and then a steep climb leads to two fantastic viewpoints, the Point de Vue de L’Hermitage and the even more impressive Rocher de 7 Villages. It’s then a gentle amble down back to Monthermé for a welcome glass of the local beer.

The Park counts over 1000km of marked footpaths, some easy but others more challenging. These include four GR’s, long distance trails – the GR12 connects Amsterdam to Paris and the GR354 goes all to way to Santiago de Compostella following the Way of St James. I don’t think I’ll be taking any of those in the future, but I’d love to come back and explore the region further.

Rupert Parker is a writer, photographer, cameraman & TV Producer. His special interests are food & travel & he writes about everything from wilderness adventure to gourmet spa tours. Read about his latest adventures on his website Planet Appetite.

Useful information

Ardennes wesbite has information about the region.

L’Auberge de l’Abbaye in Signy-l’Abbaye is close to the forest and has good food.

Chambre d’hôtes Le Point de Chute in Hautes-Rivières has local specialities and is handy for Monthermé.

Restaurant Gastronomique Chez Toshi in Charleville-Mézières has excellent French cuisine with a Japanese twist.

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Nothing beats sipping delicious Champagne in Champagne. It is the drink of choice for celebrations around the world and it is only produced in one beautiful area of France.

“Champagne is the only wine that leaves a woman beautiful after drinking it” claimed Madame de Pompadour, the mistress of Louis XV, a woman who was known for her intelligence as well as her beauty. Loved by Kings and Queens, favoured by Napoleon, adored by Marilyn Monroe – Champagne the drink has won a legion of fans for centuries.

Take a small group tour with tastings of world class Champagnes. Discover the history and culture of Champagne’s main cities. And explore the vineyards and magnificent scenery of the region with family run Ophorus Tours.

Champagne cities

Roam in Reims, the capital of the Champagne region. Visit the Gothic Cathedral and wonder at the Roman ruins. Take a tour where your English speaking expert tour guide will reveal the history of the city and its jewel, the UNESCO listed Gothic Cathedral where the Kings of France were crowned.

You’ll discover the major Champagne houses in Reims. And, you’ll visit one of the most legendary of them all. Plus you’ll enjoy a delicious tasting followed by a delectable lunch with more bubbles.

Visit a family run Champagne estate in the glorious countryside with your guide and driver. All you have to do is relax and enjoy the tasting. You will learn the secrets of how to make Champagne and see how it is matured in dark cellars across the region. Millions and millions of bottles fizzing away, the result of centuries of French savoire-faire.

Explore Epernay, aka the capital of Champagne the drink. Wander its graceful streets and ogle at the centuries-old mansions in the famous Avenue de Champagne. Discover its fascinating history and stop off at the world-famous Grande Maison De Champagne Moët & Chandon, where Napoleon often stayed.

Champagne vineyards and villages

Visit the picturesque village of Hautvillers, the cradle of Champagne. It’s here that the monk Dom Perignon, who is said to have “invented” Champagne, claimed on sipping it: “come quickly, I am tasting the stars”.

And discover the Grand Crus villages in the mountains of Reims, surrounded by those precious vineyards.

With an expert guide, you’ll learn the fascinating history of the drink and the region. And, you won’t need to worry about enjoying the bubbles since all transportation will be provided.

Book a half day, full day or longer brilliant Champagne tour to really experience the effervescence at: ophorus.com

Tours start from Reims train station, less than an hour from Paris.

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The city of Chaumont is on a plateau above the River Marne and is a great place to stop off if you’re travelling from Calais to the Alps.

Boasting a population of over 23k, part of the Haute-Marne department, it sits on a railway line that links Paris and Basel, Switzerland, over an impressive viaduct that draws tourists from far afield. And, there’s plenty to do and see here…

Visit Chaumont’s impressive Viaduct

At 52 metres tall and 600 metres long, you can’t miss the striking stone viaduct which dates back over 160 years. This popular tourist attraction was built in the mid-1850s to link the capital Paris to the city Basel – on the River Rhine where the Swiss, French and German borders meet – and boasts 50 impressive arches, stacked three on top of each other up to 50 metres high.

Described as one of the most remarkable bridges built in the second half of the 19^th Century in Europe, it’s not only a sight to behold in its own right, but it also offers a fantastic view of the picturesque Suize valley. There’s more on this top tourist attraction here.

Square Phillippe Lebon

Just a stone’s throw from the Hotel Les Remparts – you can park up in the street just outside the hotel – you’ll find yourself in the small but beautiful Square Phillippe Lebon. Featuring a stone statue of gas lighting inventor Phillippe Lebon, it rewards those who stop off to visit with a stunning view over the surrounding countryside, and it also boasts a children’s playground.

Basilique St Jean The Baptist

As you stroll around the oldest part of Chaumont be sure to take in this Gothic basilica with its two towers that peak over surrounding buildings. This Roman Catholic church, which is classified as an historical monument, dates back to the 13^th Century. Featuring modern stained glass and several art works, just one of many highlights if you step inside the church is a “remarkable example” of a Jesse tree dating back to the 15^th century. Made of limestone this Christian motif is over four metres high and it sits on a three-metre wide base.

Where to eat

Restaurant Des Remparts on Rue de Verdun, next to Square Phillippe Lebon, is a great place for both evening meals and breakfast. You can choose from one, two or three course meals in the evening, with starter and desert in buffet format. Everything was either fresh or cooked beautifully and the service is impeccable. There is also a delicious, freshly made or baked choice at breakfast.

Visit Colombey-les-Deux-Eglises

Close to Chaumont is Colombey-les-Deux-Eglises and La Boisserie, the former home of General de Gaulle, President of France. You can also visit the Charles de Gaulle Memorial Centre which is a fascinating presentation of the life and times of de Gaulle. It’s packed full of artefacts from the car in which he was travelling when an assassination attempt was made on his life to furniture and fashions of the mid 20th century.

Where to stay

A great place to stay in Chaumont is at Hotel Les Remparts, on Rue de Verdun via a beautiful wooden door. Comfy, peaceful rooms provide a very pleasant mid-way stop on the nine-hour journey from Calais to the Alps. The lovely hotel has the added bonus of having its own restaurant so there’s no need to worry about finding somewhere separate to eat nearby. You can book here

Find out more about Chaumont: tourism-chaumont-champagne.com

Justine Halifax is a multi award-winning writer and has worked as a journalist and feature writer for the Birmingham Mail, Birmingham Post and Sunday Mercury.

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Epernay is around 1.5 hours from Paris by train, and 30 minutes from Reims. With its UNESCO listed Avenue du Champagne and inclusion on the “100 most remarkable sites of taste in France” – you’re in for a treat if you visit.

The railway line from Paris reached Epernay in 1849 and trade in Champagne boomed which led to the naming of the Avenue de Champagne. Previously known as rue Royale, and Fauborg du Commerce, it was renamed in 1925 and now receives almost half a million visitors each year

The train station is in the centre of Epernay so you don’t have to walk far to reach the sites. This includes the world-famous Avenue de Champagne. Here you can’t help but ogle at the famous names and beautiful buildings that line this long road. Underneath it are 110km of cellars filled with bottles maturing slowly, watched carefully by experts.

Avenue de Champagne

The first Champagne house opened on the avenue in 1729, it belonged to Nicolas Ruinart. Taking a cellar visit is practically the law in this effervescent little town. Few can resist the allure of Moët et Chandon who moved to the Avenue in 1743. They have a super tasting tour and the shop is magnificent, the perfect place for your Champagne souvenir.

Take a tour with www.greeters-en-champagne.com/en. It’s an initiative in which local people, passionate about the area where they live, share their local knowledge with visitors. It’s free of charge and you’ll get a real insider’s view of Epernay.

Champagne Tasting

In the summer months, pop into the tourist office at Epernay to discover the programme of “Esprits de Champagne” organised by the tourist office. For a really different taste experience, you coul take a flight in a hot air balloon over the Reims Mountains and the vineyards with Champagne on landing! Or go up, up and away in a tethered balloon, summer months only, for a 360 degree view of Epernay from 150m up in the air. Sipping Champagne from that height tastes rather special!

There are plenty of Champagne bars to fuel your bubble desires. But, one of the best I think, is C -Comme Champagne (8 Rue Gambetta 51200 Épernay). It’s a shop and tasting bar where the staff are incredibly knowledgeable and helpful. Delicious snacks are also on offer, the best of local products from cheese to chocolate. And the tastings vary from by the glass in the bar to a picnic tasting in the cellars. There are even gourmet dishes to have with your bubbles. The shop is terrific too, there is lots of information about the fizz and who produced it.

Visit nearby Hautvillers – the birthplace of Champagne

5km north of Epernay is the place where legend has it, the story of Champagne bubbles began – Hautvillers.

Dom Perignon was a French Benedictine monk who served at the Abbey of Hautvillers. He worked in the Abbey cellars for almost 50 years. His days were spent improving the methods for the maturation of wines, the blending of different grapes, corking the bottles and the pruning of vines to improve the grape quality. Apparently he actually spent much of his time trying to rid the wine of bubbles! He is though, the person we associate most with the invention of Champagne. The legend that he cried “Brothers, come quick, I am tasting the stars” when sipping the bubbles has stuck, in no small part thanks to brilliant French marketing.

There’s no train station in Hautvillers but you can hire a bike (including electric bike) from Epernay Tourist Office. The ride takes around 30 minutes: www.tourisme-hautvillers.com

More on Champagne

The history of the Avenue de Champagne
Les Riceys, off the beaten track in Champagne
Champagne, the French Elixir
Classic Champagne cocktails
Reims – what to see and do in the bubbly city

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Mark Twain, the great American writer was spot on when he claimed: “too much of anything is bad, but too much Champagne is just right”.

Ever since it was “discovered” in France in the 17^th century, just about everyone has fallen under the spell of the effervescent wine. It can only be made in Champagne, north east France to have the status of Champagne the drink. There are more than 100 Champagne houses and 19000 grape growers, of these only around 2000 make and sell Champagne. There are an astonishing 50,000 different Champagne labels, so, if you thought Champagne was Champagne – think again. Tastes and prices vary widely. Part of the fun of being a Champagne drinker is working out which one you like best.

Raise a glass to Ruinart

Ruinart (pronounced Reenart) was founded in 1729, and it was the first established Champagne house and is therefore the oldest in France. In fact the company started on 1 September 1729. We know this because Nicolas Ruinart, the 32 year old founder, wrote in his ledger book that day that he was starting a business devoted to “wine with bubbles”. The ledger book takes pride of place in the entrance to the house.

History of Ruinart

Nicolas Ruinart’s uncle was a monk, Dom Thierry Ruinart, born in Champagne but sent to an Abbey in Paris. Whilst there he learned of a new “wine with bubbles” that the young nobles enjoyed. At that stage it wasn’t known as Champagne. It’s entirely possible that Dom Ruinart knew Dom Perignon the “inventor” of Champagne. They lived at the same time, shared the same interests and in fact both are buried in nearby Hautvillers.

Dom Thierry told his brother about the new-fangled sparkling wine and his son, Nicolas, picked up the idea and ran with it, 20 years after his uncle died in 1709. The Ruinarts were textile merchants at that time and Nicolas owned some vineyards. He started out making Champagne for clients as gifts. But, the sparkling wine was a runaway success. Just 6 years after producing the first bottle, he gave up the textile business and concentrated on the Champagne.

Visit to Ruinart

A visit here reveals a fascinating slice of Champagne history. Around a mile from Reims city centre, Ruinart is established in the legendary crayères, the quarries where the Champagne is matured. Visit the cellars, the oldest and deepest in Reims. They date back to 1 AD when the Romans dug out the chalk to create the city walls and buildings. Ogle the bottles slumbering in the dark in perfect conditions. Strolll some of the 8km of caves, some of which have an almost Cathedral like feel to them. You’ll learn about the process of making Champagne. Find out how the bottles are turned by hand and see medieval heads in the walls! Discover what goes into making classic Ruinart – Chardonnay is king here.  And you’ll see some fabulous art. Ruinart is a patron of the arts and offers a residency to an artist each year. Amazingly Ruinart were the first company to advertise Champagne. They also came up with the idea for Champagne as a Grand Prix celebration drink.

I’m not going to ruin your visit to Ruinart by telling you everything you’ll see and do. It is a little more expensive than the other houses, but it does include a tasting and it is a fascinating couple of hours that you’ll spend in this historic Champagne house. Worth the money.

Ruinart Boutique

They don’t have a shop as such but a rather swanky boutique where you order your Champagne on a tablet and someone will get it from the cellar for you. Guide Francoise Sastre explained the different types of Ruinart, and they are not many, the company chose to keep to just 5 different types of Champagne – and make them perfect. The Ruinart Blanc de Blancs is one of the finest I’ve ever tasted and Ruinart “R” is one you can “drink from 9 am to 9 pm” is superb and “it goes with anything” says Francoise.

This is not cheap Champagne but when you know just how much work has gone into preparing it, you’ll really savour a glass of this very special “sparkling wine”.  You won’t find it in supermarkets, only in fine wine establishments – and there’s a reason for that. The bottles are clear glass, not the dark glass that’s normally used. So, stockists must be experienced enough to store the bottles properly so as not to spoil the taste. It really is exclusive, and it’s a Champagne that the French love.

So next time you’re in Reims, nip to Ruinart and discover this amazing Champagne for yourself.

Book tour through the Ruinart website

Discover more to do in Reims and Champagne

How to spend 48 hours in Reims, Champagne
Take the train from Paris to Reims and enjoy the Champagne lifestyle
Some of the best Champagne towns you can visit by train
Langres, Haute-Marne, the secret part of Champagne
Guide to Epernay France

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Seeing the best of Champagne by train is a fun and easy journey. Reims, the capital of Champagne the region, is just 45 minutes by train from Paris. Epernay, known as the capital of Champagne the drink, takes around an hour and a quarter. The two great Champagne towns are linked by rail and it takes around half an hour to get from one to the other. Not only that, en route are several other famous and fabulous Champagne producing towns, all connected by rail. If you want to taste before you buy, taking the train is a great way to visit, stay safe and on the right side of the law.

Ligne des Bulles, the Bubbles Line

The TER (regional train) line between Epernay and Reims is called by some locals: Ligne des Bulles, the Line of the Bubbles. It makes stops at several villages in the woodlands and vineyards of the area, a great way to get to see some of the small Champagne towns and meet producers at their vineyards. Here are three of the best:

Rilly-la-Montagne

This charming village, one of the oldest in the area; here history and tradition are closely entwined. At the town hall pick up a copy of a walking guide of the town and vineyards. Don’t miss the 12th century church with its carved choir stall illustrating the stages of wine production. There are about 60 Champagne producers in the town and several offer cellar tours and tastings. Stop off for a special lunch at the splendid Chateau de Rilly, full on glamour amongst the vineyards.

Ay

The town’s motto is “the city that sparkles” and it’s a lively sort of place. It’s said that King Henri IV of France loved the wines from here and owned his own wine press in Ay. Apparently, it was kept in the half-timbered house behind St Brice’s Church. Ay was already well-known in the Gallo Roman period for the wines produced here. Around 40 producers are based in Ay including Bolinger, and several offer cellar tours and tastings. Pop to the town hall to pick up a leaflet about the town (in English). There are several restaurants, mainly bistro style.

Avenay-Val-d’Or

Just 7km from Epernay is sleepy and tranquil. There’s a 13th-16th century church and several Champagne houses to visit. From here it’s about a 20-minute walk to the tiny village of Mutigny from where you will get a wonderful view of the Montagne of Reims.

Hautvillers

Not on the Champagne line but a short cycle ride from Epernay where you can hire bikes at the tourist office. It’s the birthplace of champagne and well worth the detour!

More about Champagne

Read more about Hautvillers
Read more about Epernay
Read more about Reims
The real history of Champagne

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Known as the Gateway to Champagne, just 45 minutes by train from Paris, Reims is renowned for its prestigious champagne houses, Gothic cathedral and Art Deco architecture.

Little of the original Roman town remains except Porte Mars, an ancient gateway to the town and the cryptoportico – a semi-underground gallery dating from the 3rd century. The city was largely rebuilt after the First World War caused extensive damage as it was virtually on the front line.

Reims has an extraordinary place in history thanks to King Clovis I, who in 498AD converted to Christianity when he was baptised by the Bishop of Reims, the future Saint Remi, creating a link between the church and the monarchy in France for generations to come. In fact, 33 French monarchs were crowned here – giving the town the name the Coronation City.

Day 1 in Reims

The two absolutely must-dos in this town: Reims Cathedral and a Champagne house visit and tasting.

Top tip: Pick up a Reims City Pass from the tourist office. A 1, 2 or 3-day pass which gives access to more than ten museums plus free public transport in the city and discounts at many of the town shops and restaurants.

Notre Dame Cathedral is renowned as a gem of Gothic architecture, founded in 1211. The Smiling Angel statue has become the symbol of the city. Every evening in summer there is a stunning free ‘Son & Lumière’ (sound and light) show in front of the Cathedral. Inside the stained glass windows are sublime, including modern windows designed by Chagall.

It is one of three UNESCO World Heritage sites in Reims, along with the Palais de Tau, the former residence of the Archbishop, now the cathedral museum, which includes the Palatine Chapel. The Palais displays the coronation gown of Charles X, the last French king to be crowned here in 1825.

The monastery of the Abbey of Saint Remi is today a museum of the history of Reims with a rich collection. The Saint Remi Basilica next door houses the relics of its namesake. This is where the special ampoule containing the holy ointment for anointing new kings was kept.

Shop at the market

Boulingrin Market covered market was built in 1927 and has been renovated to its former glory. The market which is open Wednesday, Friday and Saturday is located in the town centre next to the Porte de Mars, a major ancient access point to the city, at the beginning of the Rue de Mars, where you can also find the charcuterie specialist Aux Gourmets des Halles and other gastronomic boutiques.

Lunch at

Au Piano des Chefs: Next to the Cathedral in the centre of town. It is a creative wine and cuisine experience offering English and French speaking cookery classes.

The Champagne Houses

The visits of the cellars of some of the Champagne Houses incorporate the famous ‘crayères’ – giant chalk pits excavated by the Romans to build the first city of Reims. These underground chambers were joined by connecting tunnels over the centuries, developing into an intricate underground network of over 200 km. Used as a shelter for both soldiers and civilians during times of siege, (an underground hospital and school were set up during the First World War), the cellars of Reims, dug deep into the chalk, provided ideal storage conditions for champagne, with a constant cool temperature and high humidity. The Champagne Houses set up their headquarters above the cellars, each one adapting the visit of their cellars to reflect the individual history and heritage of their brand, such as the contemporary art exhibitions at Champagne Pommery.

There are plenty of places to stop for a glass of bubbles in town but Pol Couronne, with its boutique and tasting bar in the shadow of the Cathedral is fabulous (11 Cours Jean-Baptiste Langlet; champagne-polcouronne.com)

Book a Champagne experience – tastings, workshops, sabrage, vineyard visits and more with www.champagne-booking.com

Champagne house must-sees:

Ruinart: www.ruinart.com this one is about a mile outside the centre of the city, it’s the oldest Champagne house in existence and their Champagne is elegant and memorable. You can take a great tour, it’s a little pricier than the rest but it’s well worth it.

Mumm: www.mumm.com the tour and tasting are superb and you’ll get a fascinating insight into the world of Champagne making.

Dinner at

Newly reopened, the revamped Brasserie Conti of the Grand Continental Hotel**** has become a trendy institution in the city after a recent refurbishment.

Day 2 in Reims

Take a City Tour – no matter the weather, this is a great way to see the city with commentary by audio-guide. Book at the tourist office in the centre of town, right next to the Cathedral.

Visit a museum – there’s plenty of choice in Reims:

Fort de la Pompelle

This is an unusual museum housed in a fortress, built in the nineteenth century, which was very important in the First World War protecting the city of Reims. The impressive collection of memorabilia from the First World War includes an enormous collection of Imperial German helmets and headgear. Open all year.

Musée de la Réddition

It is a little-known fact that the surrender at the end of the Second World War was actually signed in secret in Reims on 7th May 1945 in the map room of the American Army headquarters.  This revered place has been preserved and is open to visitors all year round.

The Automobile Museum

Houses over 200 vehicles dating from 1908 to the present day, which includes rare motorbikes and prestigious vintage cars.

Lunch at

Historic Café du Palais (14, Place Myron Herrick). With its sumptuous interior, great menu where classic Champenoise has a little bit of Italian influence, you’ll be happy to while away the hours here! It’s also great for an afternoon and early evening snack and glass of Champagne.

More bubbles!

Of course you have to have more fizz – this is the capital of Champagne after all. The Boutique du Club Trésors de Champagne was created in 1971 to showcase the quality vintages of 27 artisan wine makers, promoting the exceptional character of the wines they produce.  If you don’t make it to a champagne house this Champagne bar is an ideal alternative to taste some top champagnes.

Try a local speciality: Le Biscuit Rose de Reims was created in the 17th century by a local baker who left his ‘little cakes’ in the oven to use up the heat, turning them to biscuits. Vanilla floavoured and coloured pink with natural carmine, the biscuits are very light and crunchy and are also used as an ingredient in desserts.

Shop for souvenirs: Reims Vinegar and Reims Mustard The vinegar is created from the yeast sediment disgorged from the champagne before corking which is then aged in oak barrels for a year.  The vinegar is mixed with brown mustard seed to create the Reims Mustard which is made with black grapes and is an ideal accompaniment to Reims Ham which is cooked in special stock and has a unique flavour.

Bake your day at: Waida et fils, a superb boulangerie/patisserie with a charming art deco tea room, service can be slow at peak busy times (5 Place Drouet d’Erlon).

Dinner at

Brasserie Excelsior. A fabulous way to round off your 48 hours in Reims with a quintessentially French and Champenoise menu (really great value) in a beautiful setting and a lovely summer terrace for when the sun shines.

Thanks to Gillian Green, Gillian Green PR for some great tips for visiting Reims.

Reims tourist office for lots more details: reims-tourism.com

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There’s nothing quite like the pop of a Champagne bottle to make you feel festive and with Reims, the capital of Champagne so close to Paris, there’s no excuse not to go!

Take the Train to Reims from Paris

With Reims, the capital of Champagne, just 45 minutes from Paris by train it’s the perfect day trip location but even more so for a sparkling weekend break. From Reims you can travel around the Champagne countryside on the “Bubbles Line”. You really don’t need a car to get around and that means that you can also enjoy a glass or two without having to worry about being over the limit says Janine Marsh

Reims train station is in the centre of town making it easy to walk to all the sites and there are many. UNESCO heritage sites abound here, perhaps the most well-known is the iconic Cathedral of Notre Dame.

What to see in Reims

33 Kings were crowned in Reims from 816 to 1825 including Charles VII in 1429, accompanied by Joan of Arc. It comes as a shock to many visitors to discover that many of the sculptures featured on its façade are copies or casts. Damaged badly by bombing in World War I, the Cathedral was rebuilt. It says much about the integrity of the work carried out that this Cathedral is still considered one of the finest examples of Gothic architecture in the world. Statues of 63 kings, 3m high and weighing 6 tonnes each adorn the façade. It’s no less impressive inside where stained-glass windows dating to the 13th century vie for attention along-side the magnificent stained-glass windows designed by Marc Chagall.

Next door, visit the Palais du Tau, the former Bishops’ Palace, and residence of Kings whilst awaiting coronation, is now a museum dedicated to the Cathedral. The St Remi Basilica which was mostly built in the 12th century is named after the Bishop of Reims who baptised Clovis, the King of the Franks in 496.

Even older is the Roman legacy, the huge Port de Mars which stands majestically at the end of a busy road, it is quite simply astonishing.

A huge area of Champagne itself has UNESCO status, including Reims, granted in 2015 in recognition of its Paysages de Champagne.

Champagne tasting in Reims

You can’t go to Reims and not do a Champagne tasting – you’re spoiled for choice here. The city is built on top of miles of secret passages that contain millions of slumbering bottles of Champagne. Nicholas Ruinart started the trend for maturing Champagne in the chalky caves, the digging out of which was begun in the Gallo Roman period. There are several big Champagne makers including Mumm, which has a brilliant tour, Veuve Cliquot, Taittinger, Lanson and Drappier, who make the biggest bottles of Champagne known as a Melchizedekis – they hold 400 glasses of bubbles!

If you want to try Champagne from smaller producers and artisans head to the Tresors de Champagne Boutique (2, rue Olivier Métra), where you can take a tasting – with more than 160 different cuvées each week, you’re sure to find one you absolutely love.

When you’ve had your fill of history, take a break in one of the many restaurants and bars – one of the best reasons to visit.

Where to eat out in Reims

Locals love: Café du Palais is a 4th generation family run restaurant that has been pleasing the punters since 1930. Dishes on the menu pair perfectly with bubbles. 3 course menu €39.00 includes a glass of Champagne (14, Place Myron Herrick).

Wine and dine: The Brasserie Excelsior near the train station has oodles of old school glamour, think chandeliers and banquettes and a style reminiscent of the Roaring Twenties. 2 course lunch menu from €28.50 (96 place Drouet d’Erlon).

Find out more about Reims: ReimsTourism.com

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