In 1755, the fountains in the city of Nancy, flowed with wine to celebrate the inauguration of one of the finest squares in the world. If you lived in Paris then and wanted to join in the fun, it would take several days to make the 240-mile journey to Lorraine, northeast France. Now the fast train whisks you to this dazzling city in less than 90 minutes. And it’s a detour that’s well worth taking for the amazing architecture alone, three beautiful UNESCO-listed squares of “outstanding universal value” which, says the organisation, “constitute a unique artistic achievement, a veritable masterpiece of creative genius. But that’s not all Nancy has to offer. It’s also the Art-nouveau capital of France, the belle epoque, nature-inspired art form that transformed the decorative arts at the start of the 20^th century.

Place Stanislas Nancy

Let’s get back to that square which caused wine to flow. It too was nouveau in its way though it was long before the days of Art nouveau. The story begins with a king who had no kingdom. Stanislas Leszczynski, former ruler of Poland, homeless after being deposed, was offered the Dukedom of Lorraine by his son-in-law, King Louis XV of France. The new Duke embraced his life in the city of Nancy and set out to link the city’s old town, the medieval district and ‘new’ town, the 16^th century Renaissance district, creating an urban landscape that was way ahead of its time, gloriously Rococo, and echoing the opulence of Versailles. It was a majestic showpiece, even if he was no longer a King. UNESCO says the development of Nancy constitutes the “oldest and most characteristic example of a modern capital where an enlightened monarch proved to be sensitive to the needs of the public.”

The architectural transformation of Nancy by the Duke was to honour Louis XV. Place Stanislas, originally named Place Royale, is the biggest and most famous of three grand squares. Lining it are classical buildings including the statuesque Opera House, which has a sumptuous interior, and the Fine Arts Museum. Extravagant fountains (no wine, water these days!) are set into the walls of the square which are accessed through grand, gilded wrought iron gates.

Though you may be dazzled by the style and beauty of this square, don’t miss a visit to the place de la Carrière, where noblemen once raced horses, home to the Palais du Gouvernement and classical townhouses. And, the Place d’Alliance where you can sit under a leafy tree while admiring the architecture and the fountain inspired by the fountain in Piazza Navona in Rome.

Art Nouveau heaven

Not content with gorgeous classical architecture, Nancy is also a land of art nouveau glory, the voluptuous movement that pays homage to nature and thrived in Europe from the 1880’s to the start of World War I. Three of the biggest names in art nouveau, Gallé, Daum and Majorelle had their glassware and furniture making factories in Nancy.

At the Musée des Beaux-Arts de Nancy in Place Stanislas, there’s a splendid collection of art including Picasso, Matissse, Monet and Manet, as well as a fabulous collection of art nouveau pieces, including 300 pieces of Daum glass (Daum have a boutique-museum close by). Daum was active in the School of Nancy, an association of artists, artisans and manufacturers, which was established in 1901 to promote Art nouveau with the philosophy of “art in everything” and “art for everyone.” Artists experimented with natural shapes — flowers, vines, birds, insects — and the idea of using industrial techniques and materials to create beauty in commonplace items – definitely aligning with French art de vivre, the art of appreciating the beauty of simple of things, living life with elegance and passion.

The founder of the School of Nancy was Emile Gallé, an innovative glass maker whose reputation spread far and wide, motivating American artist Louis Comfort Tiffany to visit the Galle factory in Nancy. At the Musée de l’Ecole de Nancy you can see a collection of Gallé’s work in an art nouveau mansion which is kitted out in the most amazing period furniture, from stained glass and objets d’art to the “Dawn and Dusk” bed, which has an unforgettable moth theme.

At Villa Majorelle at 1 rue Louis-Majorelle, the former home of cabinet maker Louis Majorelle feels as if you’ve stepped back in time. The house features flamboyant flower-shaped chimney pots, writhing wrought iron balconies and rooms filled with fabulous furniture.

Architectural highlights

In fact, everywhere you go in Nancy you’ll find not just art nouveau and classical buildings to admire but, going back even further in time, the medieval old town features the wonderfully pointy-towered 13th-century Craffe Gate, the last remnant of the town’s medieval fortifications and one of two gates to the city. There’s also the 15th-century Cordelier Church, and remnants of an early 16th-century palace.

This melange of glorious styles makes Nancy one of the most architecturally exquisite cities in France, like a mini-Paris but with its own unique and gorgeous look and feel.

But, this is no staid museum town, it’s a gastronomic destination, brimming with brilliant restaurants, like the Excelsior, a complete 1911 period piece with stained glass windows, shimmering polished brass chandeliers and Majorelle furniture (there is no piano by him here but in the Musée de l’Ecole de Nancy). There are friendly bars, cultural venues galore, and fabulous boutiques. Nancy, one of the greenest and most floral cities in France, is also a wellness destination, the only French city to have a thermal spa in the heart of a metropolitan area. There really is something to please just about everyone in this ravishing city.

Top tip: Get a City Pass (online) or from the tourist office. It gives you access to all museums and cultural venues, a free guided tour, audio-guide, offers and discounts in shops, plus an app with loads of details for what to see and do, where to eat, parks you can relax in, discounted public transport (note all trams and buses in Nancy are free on weekends), and more.

Book a tour, get a map, find out what’s on and pick up a city pass from the tourist office which is located in Place Stanislas: nancy-tourisme.fr/en

The post The must-sees of Nancy, jewel of Lorraine appeared first on The Good Life France.

 Janine Marsh explores Metz, the historic city of light where a dragon once lived…

“Anyone been to Metz?” I asked in my local bar in the Seven Valleys, Pas de Calais. There was silence. Even in France, Metz is not well known and if you’re from outside of France you might not even have heard of it.

Metz is in the northeast of France, in the Moselle department. It is the capital of the region formerly known as Lorraine, now joined up with Champagne, Ardennes and Alsace and called Grand Est.

Metz is one of France’s oldest cities with a history going back some 3,000 years and the fact that it is rather under the tourism radar is astonishing. Close to Luxembourg and Germany, it is a superbly gastronomic city. It is historic, architecturally glorious, home to arguably France’s oldest church – the basilica of Saint-Pierre-aux-Nonnains which began life in the 4th century, and a Cathedral which has the largest expanse of stained glass windows in the world. There are magnificent museums including a branch of the Pompidou, the city is surrounded by glorious, mountainous countryside – and yet, it’s less than an hour and a half from Paris.

48 hours in Metz

Metz is steeped in history and character. It’s a city of architectural contrasts, with a medieval district, classical 18^th  century architecture in the Place d’Armes and Palais de Justice, the enormous neo-Romanesque train station built by the Germans at the start of the 20^th century, and a modern side too including the extraordinary Pompidou centre behind the station.

It’s a compact city that’s easy to discover on foot, but if you want to take it easy there a free hop-on-hop off navette bus, and  there are loads of cosy cafés and funky bars to tempt you to stop awhile.

The must-sees in Metz

The great Gothic cathedral of Metz

 In medieval days, Metz was a mecca for artists and the Cathedral St Etienne, the third highest in France,  beautifully illustrates the skill of stone masons and artisans of the day. Made from golden local Jaumont stone it has stood for more than 800 years (built between 1220-1522). The vast stained glass windows (69,920 sq ft) have earned it the nickname ‘God’s Lantern’. The windows here range from medieval masterpieces by Hermann de Münster and Thiébauld de Lixheim to striking modern panes by Jacques Villon and Marc Chagall. During WWII the windows were removed and stored in crates, sent to Château de Dissay, near Poitiers. This didn’t save them however, they were discovered and sent to Germany. Miraculously they were found in a salt mine and returned to their home after the war.

At night the cathedral is illuminated and is one of the reasons the city is known as the Ville Lumières.

Museums of Metz

Housed in an old Carmelite convent, Les Musées de la Cour d’Or contains three museums. The Musée Archaeologique has one of the most important collections of Gallo-Romain archaeology in France including preserved ancient baths preserved. The Musée d’Architecture showcases Romanesque and Gothic pieces. And the Musée des Beaux Arts includes works by a range of prominent artists including Delacroix, Corot and Sargent.

Pompidou Centre

A regional branch of Paris’s Pompidou Centre opened in Metz in 2010. The avante-garde building, which is highlighted by an undulating roof, houses an extensive collection of modern art. The 77-meter high spire is a nod to the year 1977, when the Paris Center Pompidou opened. Modern and contemporary art exhibitions are regularly updated. The centre has a café and a very nice restaurant with a terraced area.

The Imperial Quarter

Between 1902 and 1914, the Imperial Quarter around the train station was built to strict Germanic town planning principals. Originally called Neue Stadt (new city) the area has some of the best preserved examples of German Empire urbanism, especially the luxurious villas on Avenue Foch and the remarkable train station.

The Graoully – Metz’s dragon

The legend goes that a terrible dragon named the Graoully terrorised the people of Metz until the city’s first Bishop, Saint Clement, drowned it. It’s said that the Bishop led the dragon from its lair, along a narrow road to the River Seille, warning onlookers “Taisons-nous/keep quiet, don’t wake the monster.’ Stroll along the pretty cobbled street of what is now called rue Taison, and if you look up, away from the many boutiques and cafés, you’ll spot the Graoully, hanging above you!

Don’t miss

Porte des Allemands and the ramparts. The old city gate (Gate of the Germans) and a miniature fortified medieval castle spans the river Seille. The ramparts once formed a 7km enclosure punctuated by 18 gates and 38 towers. You can follow the ramparts path along the river Moselle.

Head to the Quai des Régates and take an electric boat tour. You can even combine it with wine tasting or aperitifs. And take a break in the park at Metz Marina, Port de Plaisance.

Les Halles: The U-shaped covered market on Place de la Cathédrale has a superb range of food including a shop selling local Mirabelle (plum) brandy. Take a break at the market bistro L’Assiette du Marché. Or pick up something delicious like fuseau lorrain, a soft garlic sausage that’s a regional specialty from Chez Mauricette opposite.

The squares: In the heart of Metz, renovated squares are a great place to relax. Try the Place de Chambre (nicknamed the gourmet square of Metz), the Place d’Armes (the medieval Place Saint-Louis, and the Place de la République. Place Jeanne d’Arc is just perfect for summer drinks and dining

Where to eat

El Theatris in Place de la Comédie on the Petit Saulcy island in the centre of Metz. Here they serve gastronomic food with an emphasis on local, seasonal products. One of the dining rooms is the former office of the Marquis de Lafayette, French aristocrat and American Revolution War hero. He was appointed commander of the French army at Metz in 1791.

Head out of the city to Sarreguemines (around an hour by car). Once there, indulge in a Michelin starred feast created by Chef Stephan Schneider at the gorgeous 4* hotel Auberge Saint-Walfrid: www.stwalfrid.fr

Where to stay

 4* MGallery La Citadelle Hotel in a former 16th century military building. Superb décor and fabulous views over the cathedral from some rooms. 5 Av. Ney, 57000 Metz

Did you know?

Metz is pronounced Mess which is not a grammar thing – it’s unique to Metz. In fact, says Vivienne Rudd from Metz tourist office, even most Messins (people of Metz) don’t know why it’s pronounced this way. Metz was called Divodorum Médiomatricorum in Gallo-Roman – a bit of a mouthful and horrendous for inscribers of the day. In the 5th century, it was shortened to Mettis then to Mets, Mèz, Mès, Metz and Mess in the 14th century. A recent article suggests that 17th century French printers wanted to use the German “ß” symbol to represent the double “s”. However they didn’t have a key. So they replaced it with something that looked (a bit) like it: “tz”, but the old pronunciation stuck… Why? Because it’s easier to say!

Useful information

Trains to Metz run from Gare de l’Est, Paris and take from 83 minutes.

www.tourisme-metz.com

The post What to see and do in Metz, Lorraine appeared first on The Good Life France.