For millions of Brits, Calais is their first introduction to France, maybe to Europe. Arriving at the port of Calais, those millions, by and large, point their cars south, unaware of the historic town they miss, oblivious to its treasures and charms. But family friendly Calais is well worth stopping for says Janine Marsh who lives nearby.

Calais is an ideal day trip or weekend destination, and absolutely worth a detour on your way to or from the UK. Perfect for a spot of shopping and stocking up on French wine and goods. And it’s ideal for kids – with a resident dragon, stunning beach, plus a chance to practice their French language skills. History and culture lovers will find lots to keep them happy and food lovers will be over the moon with the cosy bistros and seafood restaurants. Here’s why I think Calais should be on your bucket list.

Family Friendly Calais

Seaside fun: The seafront of Calais has, like the town, undergone a major redevelopment. A new promenade, new restaurants and bars, ice cream and snack kiosks, skate park, free fitness areas, exercise bikes, basketball courts and playgrounds. If you remember Calais as a rather old-fashioned resort, you’re in for a surprise. Calais beach has been completely revamped, and its silkily soft sandy beaches are pristine. And there’s plenty of free parking.

Meet a dragon: Calais is home to a dragon. Yes really. The seafront of the city is a unique playground for a winged, fire-breathing, winking, sneezing 82 feet long friendly dragon! It doesn’t matter how old you are, you can’t help but be amazed at the sight of him as he carries up to 50 passengers on his back and takes them on what has to be one of the most unusual city tours in the world.

Reach for the sky: The 271 steps of the Calais lighthouse are worth the effort for stupendous 360° panoramic views over Calais and the English Channel. This local landmark has been in service for almost 200 years in what’s known as the Fishermens area, called Kaleis in the 12^th century.

Take a cruise: On weekends take a cruise on the Calais Canal (details at the tourist office).

History & Culture

The destiny of Calais has been influenced by its proximity to England, just 38km across the Channel. When Edward III of England invaded France in 1337, the event started the Hundred Years War. And in 1347, Calais fell under English rule following an 8-month long siege at the end of which 6 burghers (leading citizens) offered their lives to save the rest of the townspeople. The English King spared them, and they are honoured in a magnificent larger-than-life sculpture by August Rodin outside the town’s historic town hall, where General Charles de Gaulle married Yvonne Vendroux, daughter of a local biscuit manufacturer. Calais didn’t become French again until 1558. For a bird’s eye view over the town, head to the top of the UNESCO-listed Belfry attached to the town hall, which is considered to be one of the most beautiful in France with its neo-Flemish façade and Art Deco-stained glass windows and decor.

A short walk away, the Fine Arts Museum. It has a fine collection including a permanent Rodin exhibition which has been recently renovated in collaboration with the Rodin Museum of Paris.

Only a few traces of Calais’ medieval past have survived including the 13^th century Tour du Guet, the Watch Tower in Place d’Armes which in the 19^th century was used as a telegraph station. It was from here that news of the death of Napoleon was transmitted to Paris. There is a ring of forts created to protect the city dating from the 14^th century to the 16^th century Citadel built on the site of a medieval castle. In the 17^th century King Louis XIV’s military engineer Vauban undertook a revamp of these fortifications. More recently the Atlantic Wall was constructed by German forces during WWII as a defence against an anticipated Allied invasion. In the Park St Pierre, in front of the town hall is a rather hidden, very interesting museum, Musée Mémoire, housed inside a bunker complete with 21 rooms of exhibits telling the history of Calais (73% of the old Calais district was destroyed) during WWII.

The Cité de la Dentelle et de la Mode, The City of Lace and Fashion Museum, has a huge and fascinating collection of textiles and costumes reflecting the city’s position as the centre of the French lace making industry from the early 1800s. There are regular temporary exhibitions and a superb shop.

Foodies

Feeling peckish? You’re in the right place! There’s a huge choice of restaurants in Calais, from refined dining to cosy cafes.

Just a few of my favourites include Aquar’aile which has magnificent panoramic sea views and a superb menu including succulent oysters and a scrumptious fruit de mer platter, leave room for a dessert or two – it’s hard to choose just one! Au Côte d’Argent has great views to the coast from where you can watch the Calais dragon pass by. With a light and airy dining room, and in the summer, a brilliant barbeque area and sunny terrace, the food is superb (and great value). Enjoy a gastronomic feast at Le Grand Bleu in the port of Calais. Classic meets innovative here, hot-dog au boudin de St Jacques with spicy shrimps is absolutely irresistible!

Feast on the atmosphere as well as the food at Les Grandes Tables du Channel at Calais’s National Theatre. With a restaurant serving modern classic dishes, (the 5-course menu de extraordinaire really lives up to its name) and a cosy bistro serving local favourites in theatrically decorated surroundings, this is one of the best kept secrets of Calais – foodies will adore it.

Street markets are held in place d’Armes on Wednesdays and Saturdays and at place Crevecoeur on Thursday and Saturday mornings.

The tourist office is right by the train station in the centre of town. Their website for lots of details for what to see and do: calais-cotedopale.co.uk

Janine Marsh is the author of  several internationally best-selling books about France. Her latest book How to be French – a celebration of the French lifestyle and art de vivre, is out now – a look at the French way of life. Find all books on her website janinemarsh.com

Want more France?

Discover more fabulous destinations in France with our free magazine The Good Life France

Love France? Have a listen to our podcast – everything you want to know about France and more!

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In a former royal chateau in Villers-Cotterêts in the Aisne department, Picardy, a fascinating new cultural venue presents the history of the French language, Janine Marsh visits to find out more.

“I like books about adventure, something with a twist in the plot” said a man out loud in a room full of strangers. And out of nowhere came a voice recommending books that the voice was sure the man would like. But this was no mystical oracle – it was the magic library at the International City of French Language in Villers-Cotterêts, a rather sleepy little town, not far from Paris. Now before you think I’ve lost the plot (sorry for the pun!), the magic library is the name of a computer programme that resides inside a cube containing thousands of books at the Cité internationale de la langue française, a unique venue in a former royal castle that’s dedicated to language – not just French but languages of the world.

You may be wondering what exactly inspired such a place to be here. Well, it’s a tale of old and new.

A man of his word

“It’s not a museum” says Paul Rondin, Director of the venue “It’s a cultural space, an international city about French language, French culture and the evolution of languages around the world.” Which sounds like it might be rather dry – however, it’s anything but.

The reason that the Cité is here, goes back hundreds of years. It’s all due to King Francois 1, who began building the castle in 1532 as it was close to the Forest of Retz, one of his favourite hunting grounds and then one of the biggest forests in France. And, it was here that the King signed an ordnance on August 25, 1539 which imposed the French language in official, administrative and legal acts such as birth, marriage and death certificates, replacing Latin. The ordnance is the oldest legislative text in force in France today. It was an act of centralisation of administrative power and strengthened the sovereignty and identity of France, a common language to be used – and understood – by all the Kings people.

Over time, the castle was handed down through the royal family. The fun-loving Phillippe d’Orleans, brother of Louis XIV was a one-time resident, and it’s here that French playwright Mollière first presented his controversial play Tartuffe. Louis XIV visited several times, and his Versailles garden designer André Le Notre also transformed the gardens of Villers-Cotterêts.

But over the centuries the chateau was abandoned. It became a national property during the French Revolution, was a home for beggars, a prison, a military hospital and then a retirement home until 2014. But in 2019, the Centre des Monuments Nationaux (CMN), the French National monuments Centre, began a grand restoration.

The Cité internationale de la langue française opened to the public at the end of 2023 – and it makes for a fascinating visit.

A castle where words hang in the air

You enter via the former jeu de paume, tennis court, a large courtyard where words hang in the air – quite literally. 100 words are strung across the courtyard, chosen by local children and visitors, from ‘Anagrame’ to ‘Ziboulater’ – which means to pull a cork, “no-one really knows the exact origin of the word, a mix of Belgian and Senagalese perhaps” says the guide.

Inside the Cité, not only can you see the famous ordinance, signed in 1539 by François I, but the innovative and interactive displays, giant word search grids that several people can compete on, word games galore and reams of fascinating facts, all add up to an absorbing visit (allow 1.5 – 2 hours). There are also shows, from Chansons – vintage French songs where the lyrics are as important as the tunes – to rap. It’s a discovery not just of the French language but language in general, the history and development of language, the origins and evolution of words, and how they spread around the world. It was fascinating to see how many English words are commonly used in France, but then the English language itself is heavily influenced by French thanks to William the Conqueror.

I was fascinated by a cabinet of ‘bon point’ (good point) cards which are given to kids when they do well at school. When they collect enough, they can swap the cards for a gift. Talk about foster a competitive spirit! It’s quite brilliant.

Temporary exhibitions take place throughout the year. In the royal chapel, much of the original décor has been retained, Renaissance style and full of symbols including the Salamander, personal symbol of Francis I. The King’s staircase features a beautifully sculpted ceiling. The gardens feature a giant word sculpture. There’s also a book shop and a very nice café which has a great seasonal menu.

It’s a really fun, entertaining, enlightening and educational exhibition.

Villers-Cotterêts

The town of Villers-Cotterêts is also worth a visit and holds a prominent place in the literary history of France. It’s here that novelist Alexandre Dumas was born and as you wander the town you’ll spot many reminders of his time, the school he went to, his home as a boy, (now a decorating shop), and a dedicated museum.

Nearby are several major literary hot spots: La Ferté-Milon, the birthplace of playwright Jean Racine (1636-1699), Château-Thierry (the only place outside of Champagne where champagne is produced), is where France’s most famous author of fables, Jean de La Fontaine (1621-1695) was born; sculptress Camille Claudel was born and lived much of her life in the area (1864-1943); and Ermenonville is where Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1712-1778) spent his last days.

Find out more: Cité internationale de la langue française

Janine Marsh is the author of  several internationally best-selling books about France. Her latest book How to be French – a celebration of the French lifestyle and art de vivre, is out now – a look at the French way of life. Find all books on her website janinemarsh.com

Want more France?

Discover more fabulous destinations in France with our free magazine The Good Life France

Love France? Have a listen to our podcast – everything you want to know about France and more!

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France is the nation that invented the restaurant, haute cuisine, and Cordon Bleu, the picque-nique, baguettes and crème brulée. The French certainly live to eat, not eat to live. Whichever part of France you visit, there will be culinary treasures to tempt your taste buds, including the city that is the UK’s nearest neighbour, Calais. We share where to eat out in Calais – delicious dishes guaranteed.

Food shopping in Calais

Calais is the first and last port of call for millions travelling between the UK and France, creating an ideal opportunity to indulge in a spot of shopping and a delicious meal whilst you visit the historic town on the edge of the English Channel, discover its museums and cultural experiences from the renowned Cité de la Dentelle et de la Mode which has an exhibition of more than 10,000 pieces of lace as well as several historic working looms, to memorial tourism sites and an excellent Fine Arts gallery with a section devoted to August Rodin whose monumental sculpture of the Burghers of Calais sits in front of the art deco inspired town hall.

Calais has excellent shopping facilities including a blend of big shopping centres and bijou boutiques including fromageries, boulangeries, patisseries, chocolateries and charcuteries. Cité Europe mall and Carrefour hypermarket (the biggest supermarket in the area), are within minutes of both the port and Eurotunnel terminal. Don’t miss l’Atelier du Chocolat at 66 rue Royale in the city centre. The company have been making chocolate for 73 years and are famous in France for their irresistible chocolate bouquets. They also pay homage to Calais’s majestic dragon with a chocolate souvenir. Pretty much every cake shop in Calais will bake the local specialist Le Calais, a mouth-watering concoction of almond-hazelnut biscuit and coffee buttercream. Tip: Boulangerie Dejonghe et Fils in Les Attaques (on the outskirts of Calais), have twice won the award for the best Calais cake of the region! And cheese lovers will be in seventh heaven at the Maison du Fromage (which also stocks regional products to take home), at 1 Rue d’André Gerschel.

Where to eat out in Calais

There’s a huge choice of restaurants in Calais, from refined dining to cosy cafes and you’ll find a super list on the tourist office website (see bottom of the post).

But here are a few of our favourites we think it would be sinful to miss:

Lunch: So much choice, it’s hard to know where to start!

Aquar’aile has magnificent panoramic sea views and a superb menu including succulent oysters and a scrumptious fruit de mer platter, leave room for a dessert or two – it’s hard to choose just one!

Long a favourite or locals and visitors alike, you’ll get a warm welcome at l’Histoire Ancienne  and be served dishes that you’ll remember well after you’ve finished that last delicious mouthful in the lovely art-deco dining room. Chef Patrick Comte specialists in bistro style food, authentic, classic, and utterly delicious. Celebrate your dining experience with a Champagne gourmand – a glass of fizz and an array of sweet temptations.

Enjoy a gastronomic feast at Le Grand Bleu in the port of Calais. Classic meets innovative here, hot-dog au boudin de St Jacques with spicy shrimps is absolutely irresistible!

Feast on the atmosphere as well at Les Grandes Tables du Channel at Calais’s National Theatre. With a restaurant serving modern classic dishes, (the 5-course menu de extraordinaire really lives up to its name) and a cosy bistro serving local favourites in theatrically decorated surroundings, this is one of the best kept secrets of Calais and foodies will adore it.

And last, but by no means least, restaurant Le channel overlooking the pleasure port is an absolute must for all food lovers. It’s not unusual for visitors in the know to time their ferries to arrive or depart in time for lunch or dinner at this fabulous family-run restaurant. Accompanying the local and seasonal dishes is a superb wine list (some 1200 different wines are proposed by the excellent sommelier) and the cake cart is second to none.

Dinner: Côte d’Argent – an institution in Calais with its beach views and the Calais dragon wandering by! This liner-like restaurant with its huge windows has fabulous sunset views over the horizon. Chef Bertrand Lefebvre offers a menu of classic French dishes with fish specialties including sole, cod with herb butter, shellfish, lobsters, as well as excellent meat dishes with angus beef from the Ferme de Saint-Pô in nearby Wissant.

Locals love: La Tablée in Peuplingues. Just 15 minutes from Calais, surrounded by glorious countryside and a stone’s throw from the famous cliffs of the Opal Coast, facing their cousin the White Cliffs of Dover, La Tablée stands out for its creative menu which changes each month according to seasonal produce available, and prioritises local produce with everything home-made, from the meat matured in the cellar to the ice cream. When the sun shines, dine outside in the lovely garden in the shade of fruit and willow trees.

Cook your own: at Secrets des Saveurs – enjoy a cooking lesson with Chef Laurent Desnoyer. After working all over France as both a chef and cookery teacher, Chef Laurent has settled in Calais where he leads workshops. Join a 2 hour two-course workshop, 4-hour market visit and 3-course workshop, or a cooking lesson suitable for kids. Perfect for the whole family (and suitable for English speakers), you’ll eat the food you prepare, pick up a heap of gourmet cooking tips, and go home with a new skill – the ideal souvenir of your visit to France!

You’ll find a superb listing of restaurants on the tourist office website: Calais-cotedopale.co.uk/restaurants

Find heaps of things to see and do in and around Calais and the Opal Coast at: Calais-cotedopale.co.uk

Janine Marsh is the author of  several internationally best-selling books about France. Her latest book How to be French – a celebration of the French lifestyle and art de vivre, is out now – a look at the French way of life. Find all books on her website janinemarsh.com

Want more France?

Discover more fabulous destinations in France with our free magazine The Good Life France

Love France? Have a listen to our podcast – everything you want to know about France and more!

All rights reserved. This article may not be published, broadcast, rewritten (including translated) or redistributed without written permission.

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In the department of Pas-de-Calais, between the great port town of Calais and the seaside town of Berck-sur-Mer lies the Opal Coast. Around 50 miles of glorious beaches, vast sand dunes, pine forests and soaring cliffs, peppered with authentic fishing villages, Belle Epoque seaside towns, monuments, memorials and museums. Janine Marsh explores the rather secret coastal jewel of northern France.

At the start of 20^th century, painter Édouard Lévêque came up with the name Côte d’Opale, the Opal Coast, inspired by the luminous light and the ever-changing colours of the coastline. “It has opal, a precious milky-coloured stone that shimmers with alternating tones of green and red” he declared. The name stuck.

The route of the Opal Coast reveals enchanting treasures, a land of yesteryear with farming hamlets, little fishing villages, charming village inns and welcoming restaurants, Belle Epoque and art deco hotels, manor houses converted into small hotels, where you feel more like a friend than a guest. There are beaches of great boulders reminiscent of the Giant’s Causeway in Ireland, and beaches where the white silky sand lures you to sit and drink in the wide-open horizon all the way to the White Cliffs of Dover. Seals frolic along the coast, and now and then, when the tides are out, an ancient shipwreck makes its appearance. And everywhere there are traces of the area’s long history, bases from which would-be-conquerors tried for centuries to invade England.

This is a place to relax, enjoy the delicious food, friendly hospitality and take your time. Explore the treasures of this rather secret and surprisingly diverse part of France that’s hardly known outside of the region.

Berck-sur-Mer

In 1861, when this beach resort was already the haunt of artists like Renoir, Manet and Boudin, a local woman who had lost her husband and four children took in some very sick children for a recuperative holiday. The very iodized climate revitalised them and Berck became famous for its rejuvenating air. 12km of breezy beaches, perfect for the annual International Kite Festival (April), and for seals! There’s a large colony here who seem to love to entertain onlookers, by basking on the sand, frolicking in the waves and singing loudly!

There are plenty of restaurants and bars in this traditional seaside resort plus a unique century-old sweet shop, Succès Berckois where you can watch them make their famous boiled sweets in-store!

Nip to the town of Merlimont next door and indulge at restaurant “Sur Mer” owned by Alexandre Gauthier, the 2-star Michelin chef of La Grenouillère (Montreuil-sur-Mer). Overlooking the sea, and a big hit with the locals the menu includes fish and chips and mouth-watering minute-cooked mussel.

Le Touquet Paris-Plage

The “Monaco of the North” as it’s been dubbed, was, at the start of the 20^th century, the place where the rich, famous and infamous holidayed, from Kings, Queens and Maharajas to Winston Churchill. Cole Porter wrote “Anything Goes” here, and the town’s casino inspired Ian Fleming to write Casino Royale. They stayed at the swankiest hotels, like the Westminster which is still there, or The Royal Picardy which was the biggest hotel the world had ever seen, 120 lounges, 500 bedrooms and 50 apartments of up to 10 rooms, each with their own swimming pool (it was largely destroyed during WWII). Much loved by Parisians, Le Touquet’s grandeur is faded but the traces of its glitzy and glamorous past are evident, and with 365 days of sporting and cultural events, exhibitions and fairs every year – there’s always plenty to see and do.

Hardelot

The endless pristine sandy beaches of Hardelot, where aviation legend Louis Bleriot perfected his flying skills, are never packed. Great for families (‘Kid’ resort classification), sports galore from canoeing and sand yachting to horse-riding and an excellent golf course. There’s also a chateau, once owned by English linoleum magnate Sir John Hare in the mid 1800’s (he refashioned it in a pseudo-Gothic style), and the rooms are sumptuously decorated. His neighbour in nearby Condette, Charles Dickens, one of the greatest writers of his era, was a frequent visitor. There’s also a Shakespearian style theatre which the late Queen Elizabeth II said was “amazing”. The tranquil seaside town has plenty of little boutiques and restaurants, an artisan biscuit workshop, delicious ice cream parlours and vast mansion houses.

Wimereux and Wissant

Photo: Colonne de la Grande armee

Wimereux, just a few kilometres from the great city of Boulogne-sur-Mer is an unusual town with its whimsical, colourful Anglo-Norman villas of the Belle Epoque era. Napoleon Bonaparte developed the town intended as a port for his Grand Army to invade England. Now it attracts beach lovers and food lovers – the Art Deco Atlantic hotel with its superb bistro and Michelin starred restaurant is a big lure. Canadian John McCrae died here in 1918 and is buried in the town cemetery. McCrae, the author of the haunting poem “In Flanders Field,” is honoured on Armistice Day, 11th November when children in local schools light candles in his memory and read his poem out loud.

A few kilometres away, Wissant’s beach has long been popular with the locals including President Charles de Gaulle (dressed in suit and tie to sit on the beach) and his family (his wife Yvonne was from nearby Calais).

The Opal Coast Cliffs

At Audinghem discover the Jurassic Era Cap Gris-Nez – Grey Nose Cliff, the closest point on the French Coast to England. Just 19 miles from Dover and a landmark for cross-Channel swimmers to aim for.

Just a few kilometres away, the tiny village of Escalles by the cliff known as Cap Blanc-Nez – White Nose Cliff, has outstanding views across the countryside, the coast and the English Channel, especially at sunset.

The site of les Deux Caps and the surrounding area are listed as a Grande Site de France due to the amazing wealth of landscapes, habitats and coastal villages.

If you love the great outdoors, nature and glorious fresh air, stunning beaches, cosy inns where you’ll be warmly welcomed and served mouth-watering seasonal and the freshest of seafood dishes, authentic and historic villages, hiking, mountain biking, sailing and horse-riding, fields of crimson poppies in spring and swathes of golden rapeseed in summer – you’ll fall head over heels for the Opal Coast…

Discover restaurants, accommodation and what to see and do on the Opal Coast: www.calais-cotedopale.co.uk

10 must-sees along the Opal Coast

Stunning Bay of the Canche near Le Touquet.

Slack dunes – the longest stretch of dunes in the Pas-de-Calais department.

Nausicaa – the largest aquarium in Europe, at Boulogne-sur-Mer.

Atlantic Wall Museum, Batterie Todt, near Cap Griz-Nez.

Cycle the Vélomaritime route which runs from Dunkerque on the Belgian border to Roscoff in Brittany via the Opal Coast (bike hire available from Opale Velo from half-day to a year).

The historic port city of Boulogne-sur-Mer.

Watch the fishermen pull their traditional wooden boats, flobarts, up on the beach and buy your fresh fish direct.

Napoleon’s Column on the site where the French General planned to invade England and awarded the first Legion d’Honneur medals.

Visit Les 2 Caps craft brewery at Tardinghen.

Ride a dragon in Calais.

Find heaps to do and see in Pas-de-Calais at : visit pasdecalais.com

Want more France?

Discover more fabulous destinations in France with our free magazine The Good Life France

Love France? Have a listen to our podcast – everything you want to know about France and more!

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Deep in the glorious countryside of Pas-de-Calais, in the far north of France, history has played its hand over and over. Janine Marsh explores the medieval towns of northern France in the little known 7 Valleys…

The lush green valleys of Pas-de-Calais are crossed by rivers and streams, woods and forests, ancient turf bogs and osier beds where willow is grown and coppiced. This is a place shaped by battle, ruled at times by the English, Spanish, Austrian and French, and it’s an area which offers visitors a glimpse into centuries past, as well as offering a taste of the tranquil French way of life.

Although a small area it is very diverse, in places flat, in others quite mountainous. Once you turn off the main roads that cut through the countryside you will find yourself in an altogether different world. The undulating wooded valleys and the traditional rural architecture of the “fermettes”, long low farmhouses, are truly lovely, especially in spring when carpets of wood anemones and bluebells cover the ground of the forests. And along the banks of the rivers, towns, villages and buildings have sprung up over centuries, all with stories to tell.

Azincourt 1415

Several battles shaped the early history of Pas-de-Calais, and one of the most famous took place in Azincourt on October 25, 1415. Picture a weary, hungry, and disease-ridden English army led by King Henry V coming up against a French army with many more men, more food and more energy. But the unthinkable happened, the English with their formidable archers, won the day. The French dead numbered some 6000 versus a few hundred English lost (read more about this historic battle here). Among the French dead were hundreds of knights, the majority from the north, Pas-de-Calais, Normandy, and Picardy. Many were buried in the grounds of local churches – 27 of them known to be at the nearby Abbey of Auchy-lès-Hesdin including Gallois de Fougières, the first gendarme to die in combat.

Discover all about the battle, the knights, the local people and the life and times at the Centre Azincourt 1415 where immersive scenography brings history to life. Delve into the contents of a medieval soldier’s bag, feel the weight of a knight’s sword, have a go at reloading a crossbow, read poems of the day, listen to music of the Middle Ages, and get an understanding of the conflict and what led to it at this fascinating museum.

The battle took place at nearby Tramecourt, just down the road from the centre. Now a charming, preserved village, a majestic avenue of century-old lime trees leads to the castle of the Marquis de Tramecourt and the church, where members of the family lost to the battle are buried.
Open year-round: azincourt1415.com

Montreuil-sur-Mer

The walled upper town of Montreuil-sur-Mer perched on a plateau overlooking the Canche Valley sounds like it’s on the nearby Opal Coast (mer meaning sea), but in fact it’s landlocked. In the Middle Ages though, it was a thriving port town. Then the river Canche which flowed at its base was navigable all the way to the sea, now about 10km away. The city was prosperous, much coveted and fought over by amongst others, Plantagenet Kings, Burgundians, Spanish and English King Henry VIII whose troops ran amok here in 1537.

The remains of the past are evident in the town’s labyrinth of narrow cobbled streets, ancient houses, the 12^th century Church of St Saulve with its flamboyant-Gothic chapel, the neo-gothic Chapelle de l’Hôtel-Dieu, founded in 1200 and reconstructed in 1875 by Clovis Normand, a pupil of Violet le Duc, and, at the citadel with its chateau remains, parts of which go back to the 13th Century. Inside the porch entrance of the chateau are the Coats of Arms of local knights who rode out from here to die fighting against Henry V and his army at Agincourt.

Enjoy the many bars and restaurants in the town, including the Hauts de France, built in 1537. And if you want more history, head to the base of the town and explore the vast Chartreuse de Neuville, a charterhouse founded in 1323. Now open to the public, it’s an extraordinary building with a fascinating history, glorious gardens and hosts concerts and exhibitions regularly. www.destinationmontreuilloisencotedopale.com

Chateau de Fressin

The Chateau of Fressin was built in the early 1400s by Jean de Crequy, advisor to Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy. The chateau was dismantled by Louis XIV in the 17th century, but the remains are an impressive reminder of its former glory and importance.

In the grounds of the ancient flamboyant-Gothic style church of Saint Martin in the lovely little village of Fressin, are the graves of several knights who died at Azincourt along with the entrails of King Henry V’s uncle, Edward, Duke of York. A band of French knights mistakenly thought they had killed the English King and rejoiced, causing huge confusion. The Duke’s bones were taken back to England. Also interred in the church is Jean IV of Crequy whose wife Jeanne commissioned the chapel in 1425.

Visit the castle fof Fressin and its pretty gardens (April to September) where events are regularly held.

Vieil-Hesdin

Little remains of the once flourishing town of Vieil-Hesdin, made prosperous thanks to the wool processing industry that developed here in the 11^th century. It was surrounded by ramparts and ditches around an impressive castle, one-time base of Burgundian John the Fearless, father of Philip the Good, and here he manufactured his weapons and painted his pennants. The gardens of the castle were once legendary, filled with exotic beasts, a glass chapel, and medieval automatons. But in 1533, Charles V of Spain ordered its destruction, and he then built a new Hesdin just 6km away with a palace for his sister Marie of Hungary. Now the town hall, the Spanish coat of arms is still engraved above the door.

There are still a few remains of the pleasure palace that was once here, and you can discover more about the town’s history at the Vieil Hesdin Historic Site. Open April – September

Donjon de Bours

The tranquil village of Bours is home to a 14th century medieval castle, a rare example of a knight’s residence in northern France. You can take a guided tour of the Donjon de Bours and discover the life of a medieval lord, and the history of this remarkable building which was fought over by King Francis 1 of France and Holy Roman Emperor Charles V in the early 1500s. Visit a local boulangerie and you may see a cake named in the latter’s honour – the digit de Charles V, a long cream and jam filled bun representing the Emperor’s gout-ridden finger (it tastes much better than it sounds!). Open year-round

Commanderie du Bois-Saint-Jean, Wamin

Close to Auchy-les-Hesdin are the remarkably preserved buildings of the Commandery of the Order of the Knights Hospitallers of Saint John of Jerusalem. Founded in the 12th century by Philip of Alsace, it is next to the former park of the Dukes of Burgundy. You can visit the building, a stunning architectural example of the Middle Ages, and take a stroll in the glorious countryside around. Open July/August.

You can purchase a Medieval Network passport at local tourist offices for reduced rates to all the places mentioned and find out more on Escapades Medievales Facebook page

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Come to Pas-de-Calais in the Hauts-de-France region and you’ll discover an area of ancient history and rich culture, fringed by the glorious Opal Coast and brimming with historic villages and quaint hamlets which pepper the bucolic countryside. But what I love most about this friendly region – is its gastronomy says local Janine Marsh.

The gastronomy of Pas-de-Calais is unique. Its flavours come from the rich natural bounty of its fertile land and sea. It takes a pinch of influence from its Flemish past. And it’s seasoned by – well the seasons, in the far tip of northern France, it’s the rain and temperate climate that makes this area the vegetable garden of France. Come here with stretchy trousers and a healthy appetite because you’re going to be feasting like a lord…

La Mer

Pas-de-Calais is home to France’s biggest fish port – Boulogne-sur-Mer and restaurants in the region serve a wide range of the freshest fish from lobsters and mussels to langoustine and herring. Each morning, after a 5am auction, fish is delivered all over northern France and to the famous food market at Rungis in Paris. It might be early, but you’ll still be able to get breakfast. From 4.30am – 4.30pm La Chatillon restaurant, an institution in Bourgogne, serves fishermen and anyone else who loves great food – their seafood is superb.

Fish fit for a Queen

Journey along the beautiful coastal roads of the Opal Coast and you’ll pass by authentic fishing villages where traditional little wooden boats are parked outside houses and fishermen sell their catch direct from their garages.

Don’t miss Boulogne’s fabulous fish market where artisans (local fish) and commercants (fish from further afield) put on a colourful display of fish from scallops and sardines to spider crab and sea bream. At Solutions Fish Market stall the seller tells me “I’ve won 17 awards for quality of fish, I even had a message from Queen Elizabeth II about my award as a supplier to the royal table – the first French fisherman to win such an award from the Queen.”

The King of fish

If you like your fish smoked, you’re in for a treat here. 100 years ago there were dozens of fish smokers in the town, now there are just four including Accary, famous for their smoked herring – AKA the king of the fish in this part of the world.

This artisan producer consists of just 5 people who clean, cut, salt, smoke and pack the fresh fish delivered daily – a process that takes just 24 hours for herring, and a little longer for salmon. Smoked in huge stone chimneys called ‘corresses’ using oak and beechwood shavings, they’ve been working this way for almost 80 years and have won numerous awards including a coveted EPV and red label. The ashes are removed weekly and used by a local soap producer, any fish waste is used in cosmetics and animal food production. Nothing is wasted.

You won’t find Accary fish in supermarket only in good fish shops and gourmet shops, or go direct to their smokery and ring the bell – you’ll get a warm welcome. “We have a lot of happy customers” says Ludovic Sodorge, “even the gendarmes come here for their fish!” accarysalaisons.fr

It would be a sin to go to the Opal Coast and not eat well. At the Atlantic-Delpierre Hotel in Wimereux, a lovely seaside resort that’s renowned for its colourful Belle Epoque villas, push the boat out at Michelin-starred restaurant La Liégeoise. Chef Benjamin Delpierre weaves magic in the kitchen to create an exquisite menu that includes oysters with candied lemon marmalade, seaweed butter and a scrumptious peanut and chocolate dessert that I still dream of! On the first floor, La Liégeoise has stunning views over the sea, perfect for the extraordinary sunsets that the Opal Coast is known for. On the ground floor is Brasserie L’Aloze which also has a great menu – the smoked salmon with matcha tea waffle and carrot, ginger and yuzu cream is memorable.

Details: Reserve a room and table at Hotel Atlantic-Delpierre. All rooms face the sea, there’s a well-being spa and tranquil atmosphere – this hotel is a relaxing hideaway and a luxurious little gem.

La Terre

Over the last decade or so, chefs have flocked to create restaurants here, especially those who love to work with seasonal, organic and local produce. They’re lured by the tasty treasures, the quality and range of ingredients on offer, from saffron grown on the coast to the excellent cereal which (in my opinion, and I am a bit of a cake expert!) makes for the best bread and cakes in France, as well as vegetables grown in the historic marsh area of Saint-Omer. Covering an area smaller than New York City, the agricultural output of Pas-de-Calais is astonishing with premium production of many vegetables including sugar beet, chicory for coffee and beer, and endives as well as sustainable animal farming.

Those chefs have brought with them diverse food heritages from France and all around the world. Chef Christophe Dufossé is one of them. Born in Calais, he moved to Metz in Lorraine, northeast France before deciding to come back to the region. Searching for the perfect place to open his restaurant he knew that he had found it when he stayed at the Hotel Chateau de Beaulieu in Busnes, formerly run by 3 Michelin starred chef Mark Meurin who was contemplating retirement. Since 2021, Chef Dufosse and wife Delphine have breathed new life into the 17th century chateau, creating a spa area, and expanding the 5-star hotel rooms and restaurant space. They’ve also cultivated part of the enormous estate which now boasts beautiful potagers and orchards which provide at least 50% of the fruit and vegetables used in the kitchen. Their efforts have won them a rare Michelin Green Star, awarded to chefs who are leaders and innovators in the field of sustainable gastronomy.

Chef Dufosse’s team includes 28 chefs – expert patissiers, chocolatiers, glaciers, charcutiers, boulangiers and sweet makers. He works with around 40 local producers, fishermen, market gardeners and farmers. In his 2 Michelin-starred restaurant gastronomique and brasserie Cote Jardin, you’ll feast on the most mouth-watering of dishes, this is more than lunch or dinner, it’s an epic-urean experience. And whatever you do – leave room for dessert, resistance is simply futile. www.lechateaudebeaulieu.fr

From the UK, DFDS offers up to 30 daily sailings on its Dover to Calais service and up to 24 daily sailings from Dover to Dunkirk. Rest and relax in the exclusive Premium Lounge where you can enjoy complimentary hot and cold drinks, sandwiches, and snack. Add Priority Boarding to be one of the first to board and disembark the ferry. Browse DFDS’ duty-free shops onboard and at the ports and save up to 50 per cent off UK high-street prices on some of your favourite brands.

For more information and to book your next trip with DFDS, visit www.dfds.com

3 more places to experience a taste of Pas-de-Calais

Head to Houlle to try the world’s best genièvre (genever), a local speciality that’s like a Dutch gin. The Distillerie Genièvre de Houlle is home to the oldest grain distillery in use in France – making small batches of this hairs-on-your-chest drink since 1812.

Cheese heads will love the artisan-made regional frommages of the Frères Bernard at Wierre Effroy. You can watch the cheeses being made, including mouth-watering Mimolette – then scoff them without moderation!

Try the divine beer at the ancient Abbey de Clairmarais, Saint-Omer, where beer has been made for centuries.

Janine Marsh is the author of  several internationally best-selling books about France. Her latest book How to be French – a celebration of the French lifestyle and art de vivre, is out now – a look at the French way of life. Find all books on her website janinemarsh.com

Want more France?

Discover more fabulous destinations in France with our free magazine The Good Life France

Love France? Have a listen to our podcast – everything you want to know about France and more!

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Take a break in northern France and discover an authentic, picturesque, and welcoming corner between the sea and the land says Janine Marsh…

The department of Pas-de-Calais in the north of France is a land of contrasts. The unspoiled Opal Coast stretches for 75 miles, a shoreline of demerara sugar-coloured sandy beaches and dramatic cliffs, Belle-Epoque seaside resorts and flourishing fishing villages. Inland, the pastoral countryside is peppered with picturesque villages and historic towns. In Saint-Omer just 30 minutes from Calais, is France’s last cultivated wetland, a UNESCO-listed biosphere, a haven for wildlife and the only place in France where post is delivered to the island homes by boat!

There’s just so much to see and do – and I should know, I live here! But allow me to save you time, here are just a few favourites to show you how to spend a weekend in Pas-de-Calais:

Fabulous for Families

Follow the route of the Opal Coast and you’ll discover traditional little seaside villages where kids can dash up and down sand dunes, paddle and pootle about in rock pools, and fly kites on the boundless breezy beaches. The perfect outing for waterproof children and patient parents.

At the Tour de la Horloge Museum in Guines, discover the history of the area from the Vikings to the Field of the Cloth of Gold in 1520 when King Henry VIII visited and jousted with the King of France. Kids can dress up like a Viking or a knight, play games and board a Viking ship!

Goggle at a dragon in Calais! Yes really. A fire-breathing, eye-lid batting, 72-tonne dragon roams the historic sites of Calais several times a day and lives in a glass lair on the beach. Take a 45-minute ride on the dragon’s back (kids under 3 go free).  Compagniedudragon.com

Nirvana for nature lovers

This area is great for wandering or cycling. Meander the coastal paths of the GR120 alongside dunes and sandy beaches, or head inland to discover unspoiled countryside criss-crossed by a network of thousands of miles of maintained and sign posted routes. Pop into any local tourist office for details and maps and look or for the Vélo© sign which flags up bike-friendly restaurants, accommodation, charging points, rental, and repair shops.

At the seaside resort of Berck-sur-Mer, head down to the water’s edge on the south side of the beach on the Baie d’Authie, to see a huge colony of more than 100 wild seals splashing about in the water, lazing about on the sandbanks, and calling out to each other.

Cosy up under a blanket on the hills of the Deux Caps, the Two Cliffs, which overlook the White Cliffs of Dover and enjoy a picnic. Nothing says France more than a baguette with a chunk of cheese or some tasty charcuterie with a glass of wine – or a flask of coffee.

Uncover the ancient history of the marshes of Saint Omer at the Maison du Marais interpretive centre. First dug out by monks in the 7^th century, there’s still a thriving market garden in this horticultural wonderland. You can tour the marshes by boat (O’Marais by Isnor), discover the traditional wooden boat makers, they are also the last to make boats using Viking methods in France, and spot a wealth of waterfowl and other wild creatures.

Fabulous for Foodies

Chocoholics will love the Beussent Chocolate workshop. Take a 45-minute tour (in French and English) to witness the magical bean to bar chocolate process.

Sweet dreams are made of cheese! Try the local fromages – from the King of pongy cheeses Vieux Boulogne, to stinky but scrumptious Maroilles. You’ll find plenty of bistros and estaminets (traditional Flemish inns) serving mussels and chips and local dishes like beef stew cooked with locally produced sugar and beer and a regional regional favourite – Le Welsh. Legend has it that Welsh soldiers introduced the Welsh rarebit during Henry VIII’s siege of Boulogne in 1544.

Beer – the Champagne of northern France! They’ve made beer for centuries here and there is a thriving microbrewery scene. At Brasserie La Brèche in Bethune, try the craft ales made with passion and at Chez Marcel in Arras, meet with a ‘beerologist’ and enjoy a tasting session.

Wander a market – you’ll find some of the best here and there are markets every day of the week. On Friday head to Etaples voted best market in France in 2021. On Saturday there are excellent markets in Montreuil-sur-Mer, Saint-Omer, and the Sunday market in Boulogne-sur-Mer.

Historic Cities and Cultural hotspots

Meet the Greeters – discover the secret hotspots only the locals know about. The greeter system operates across the region with volunteer guides showing you around ‘their’ France, sharing snippets of local history to groups of up to six. Completely free.

Arras is the perfect small city to leave the car behind and take a stroll. The two main squares are unique in Europe, lined with columned arcades and 155 houses in sumptuous baroque Flemish style. The cobbled Place des Héros, is dominated by the UNESCO-listed belfry which tops the architecturally glorious town hall. Voted France’s favourite monument in 2015, the 75m high platform is the perfect perch from which to drink in the magnificent views over the town. And say hello to the giants, adored heritage figures of the north of France, who stand guard on the ground floor.

Medieval Montreuil-sur-Mer sits atop a hill overlooking the Dordogne-like countryside of the Seven Valleys – there is no sea despite mention of la mer in the name. Take a wander round the ramparts, visit the 16^th century Citadel which was fortified by Louis XIV’s engineer Vauban, and stroll the towns cobbled streets and squares and stop for a mug of steaming hot chocolate in the main square before the pretty Italianate theatre. It was in this town in 1837 that Victor Hugo stopped for lunch and was so impressed by his experiences in the town, it inspired him to write Les Miserables.

Bring history lessons to life:

 
Indelibly marked by two world wars, there are many major remembrance sites in Pas de Calais and many museums and monuments pay homage.

In Arras, the Commonwealth War Graves Commission Experience in Beaurains offers a fascinating glimpse into the organisation’s painstaking work maintaining Commonwealth cemeteries, monuments, and memorials around the world. And the nearby Wellington Tunnels are an immersive memorial to the Battle of Arras, a step back in time to the First World War.

La Coupole near Saint-Omer, a 55,000-tonne concrete dome with 18 feet thick walls, is where Hitler had a secret V2 rocket base built. Today it is a fascinating and haunting historical and scientific museum, and home to the most advanced planetarium in the world. With a unique 15m wide screen with 10K resolution, watch incredible 3D films from interactive seats.

In the port towns of Dunkirk and Calais and all around the Opal coast you’ll find monuments, memorials and museums dedicated to the two world wars and offering a fascinating window to the past. Don’t miss the Atlantic Wall Museum in Audinghen, a German World War II fortress with its eerily undisturbed relics from uniforms to cutlery and cups. Outside is an incredibly well-preserved and rare railway gun.

Climb Napoleon’s Column in Wimille on the outskirts of Boulogne-sur-Mer. Here, in 1804 the great general and Emperor of France mustered his forces and had 2000 ships built, in sight of England. Though the planned invasion never took place, Napoleon began the tradition of the Legion d’Honneur medals, and the moment is marked by this immense column. Climb 296 steps for eye-popping views over the English Channel.

Azincourt 1415 Museum takes you further back in time and tells the tumultuous tale of one of history’s most famous battles: Agincourt. Brush up on the history of this monumental moment in time, where the battle was over in just hours, making the British victors and King Henry V legends for the rest of time.

If you’re thinking ‘that’s a lot to pack in for a weekend’ you’re right – stay longer!

Find loads more to see and do at: www.visitpasdecalais.com

Janine Marsh is the author of  several internationally best-selling books about France. Her latest book How to be French – a celebration of the French lifestyle and art de vivre, is out now – a look at the French way of life. Find all books on her website janinemarsh.com

Want more France?

Discover more fabulous destinations in France with our free magazine The Good Life France

Love France? Have a listen to our podcast – everything you want to know about France and more!

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Meet a dragon on the beach and indulge in the lip-smacking cuisine of Calais, the port city at the tip of northern France. Our guide to Calais shares the best things to see, do and eat!

Calais is the perfect destination for a weekend, day trip or city break. There’s plenty to do and see from museums to memorial sites. The city beach, Calais la Plage (Calais by the sea) has had a massive makeover and is now one of the finest seaside destinations on the already gorgeous Opal Coast of northern France. The food is fabulous – from refined dining restaurants to seafood sensations, cosy little cafés and delicious bistros. And. There be dragons here. The colossal passenger-carrying Calais dragon is a jaw-dropping sight, creating one of the strangest and most captivating free street art performances in Europe…

The Calais Dragon

Barely a stone’s throw from Auguste Rodin’s monumental sculpture – the Burghers of Calais, depicting the surrendering of the keys of the besieged city of Calais to the English King Edward III in 1347, which resides outside the city’s town hall with its UNESCO-listed 75m belfry – lives a dragon. His glass fronted lair looks over the English Channel towards the White Cliffs of Dover, which are visible from this stretch of the coast on a clear day. And daily he roams the seafront.

The dragon is a mesmerising sight. At a whopping 82 feet long and 40 feet high, you certainly can’t miss him. He breathes fire. He spits dragon snot, sneezes, snorts and swings his tail. He bats his eye lids and roars. He flaps his 57 feet long wings. And he carries up to 50 passengers on a magical journey, guided by ‘machinists.’ Designed by François Delarozière, the genius behind the Machines de l’ile de Nantes, the Dragon of Calais is the most imposing of the company’s famous mechanical menagerie to date. Unforgettably, incredibly weird and wonderful.

And he’s not alone. A 13 feet long iguana lives close by. And there are plans for these two mechanical marvels to be joined by a gang of lizards who will carry passengers to and from iconic sites in this surprising city – quite possibly the weirdest public transport system in the world and definitely one of the most street art rich cities in Europe!

Book online for your ride on the dragon at: compagniedudragon.com/en

Indulge …

Ogling and riding dragons is hungry work. Luckily Calais is brimming with tempting bistros, boulangeries and patisseries.

There’s one cake you must try when you go to Calais – Le Calais! Almost every cake shop sells them, a meringue, almond and coffee buttercream concoction and in Les Attaques, a village on the outskirts of Calais you’ll find Boulangerie Dejonghe Pére et fils, two-time winners of the best Le Calais cake contest! Another speciality is the rond de St Nicolas – though you’ll only see that in shops in November and December as it’s a traditional Christmas biscuit with a white icing top decorated with a pink N.

Fancy something a bit more robust? It would be churlish of cheese lovers not to indulge in a local speciality – Le Welsh. And if you’re thinking that doesn’t sound very French – you’re right! It’s said to have been created in 1544 by a Welsh garrison of King Henry VIII’s army. Besieging the city of Boulogne, they were installed on Mont Lambert overlooking the town and after three months of resistance, their supplies ran low. Down to some wedges of Somerset cow’s cheese, they came up with the idea to melt the cheese, mix it with beer and pour it over stale bread. To this day it’s a favourite dish in the north of France!

You could also pop to the Dragon’s restaurant next to his lair. Enjoy  breakfast, lunch and aperitifs (including cocktails such as the Dragon des Mers which packs a Tequila Punch, and Dragon des Airs, a fruity alcohol free delight), at L’Antre du Dragon, restaurant, café, bar. It’s also the perfect place for Sunday brunch.

And for those who want a taste of exquisite French cuisine – you’ll find a huge choice of quality restaurants and gourmet food shops. Over the last decade, more and more chefs have been finding renewed passion and energy for local produce, and the rejuvenation of the town has seen a plethora of new restaurants open.

For a gastronomic meal, head to Restaurant Le Channel (restaurant-le-chanel.com) at 3 Boulevard de la Résistance, This part of Calais has a bit of a fishing village vibe with small boats bobbing in the old harbour, but you can still see the huge ferries float majestically by, shuttling millions of passengers each year between Calais and Dover. Run by the Crespo family, Le Channel has been a favourite with locals and savvy Brits for some 40 years, in fact I know regular visitors who time their trips to stop for lunch or dinner there. The oysters and locally caught fresh fish dishes are legendary, whilst gastronomes swoon over the sweet cart, everything made by the onsite patisserie chef, and the cheese cloche has been known to make some sigh out loud with happiness.

5 great restaurants in Calais

I know, I know – a lot of choice but all of these restaurants offer utterly mouth-watering dishes, and everyone one of them has a less then €30 menu of 2 dishes or more.

At Le Grand Bleu (legrandbleu-calais.com) chef Matthieu Colin has been making waves with his inventive fresh-off-the-boat fish dishes and a meaty festival of flavours. Everything served is entirely home-made from bread to ice cream.

For something with a traditional French feel L’Histoire Ancienne (histoire-ancienne.com) in Rue Royale (one of the best shopping streets in town for foodies) is scrumptious. Chef Patrick Comtale’s menu packs a lip-smacking punch – with dishes like farmer’s pork marinated Picon beer with devil’s sauce!

Aquar’Aile, (aquaraile.fr) this restaurant has fabulous, panoramic views over the Channel and classic French dishes including superb oysters, and a daily vegetarian dish.

Au Côte d’Argent, (cotedargent.com) 1 Digue Gaston Berthe, is close to the dragon’s lair. With its light airy seaside vibe and gasp-worthy presentation (seafood lovers will definitely want the assiette de fruits de mer) and a great range of vegetarian dishes.

Le Channel – Les Grandes Tables restaurant (lechannel.fr) is within the Calais theatre complex. Using local, organic and seasonal products, the décor has a post-industrial vibe. There’s also a bistro with features designed by none other than the Calais dragon’s creator François Delarozière!

This historic city really is full of surprises – and it’s utterly delicious!

Discover heaps more to see and do in Calais and the Opal Coast: calais-cotedopale.co.uk

Janine Marsh is the author of  several internationally best-selling books about France. Her latest book How to be French – a celebration of the French lifestyle and art de vivre, is out now – a look at the French way of life. Find all books on her website janinemarsh.com

Want more France?

Discover more fabulous destinations in France with our free magazine The Good Life France

Love France? Have a listen to our podcast – everything you want to know about France and more!

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Unsurprisingly this landscape provides a rich harvest of food and drink with local cheeses, meats and drinks appearing prominently on the menus of bistros, auberges and estaminets (old Flemish inns), as well as colourful cafés and fine dining restaurants scattered generously across the region.

And when it comes to visiting gardens – there’s a wonderful array to tour throughout the seasons. There are UNESCO listed marshes, ancient market gardens that you can view by boat, gardens that are spectacular and stately, charming and quirky, or practical and medicinal. There are gardens that battle a coastal environment – beautiful in summer but windy in winter – and those that celebrate fresh water and plants that thrive in damp ground. Whether you’re a keen gardener, or just love to wander around gorgeous gardens, you’ll find plenty to surprise and delight in this small northern region.

La Chartreuse de Neuville

The neat and very appealing gardens at this former monastery outside the ancient hilltop town of Montreuil-sur-Mer were originally created for medicinal and culinary plants. Organised as a kitchen garden in a series of rectangular beds, the gardens have a mission to promote biodiversity and to share botanical, medicinal and gardening knowledge that respects and values nature. The fact that most plants grown here are useful does not detract at all from the fact that they are beautiful – in fact if you’re looking for ways to make your own vegetable plot less utilitarian, there’s heaps of inspiration here. This former 14th century Charterhouse monastery is open to the public and the whole place is imbued with a sense of tranquillity that is designed to help you relax and unwind.

Floating gardens of Saint-Omer

The Audomarois marshes (Marais Audomarois) in Saint-Omer, around 30 minutes from Calais is unique. This wetland lies at an unusual intersection of coast, Flanders land and Artois hills. The area, designated a biosphere reserve by UNESCO, has been cultivated into a floating market garden, and it’s the only one of its kind in France. Walk the Marais’ paths and buy direct from the growers as you meander (or at the Saturday morning market in the town). Take a guided tour by boat, or hire one and float to your hearts content enjoying the pretty gardens of houses sat on their own little islands and the market gardens where the rich soil and climate produce vegetables galore (this is the cauliflower capital of France, producing some 7 million per year). Head to Faiseurs des Bateaux, the traditional boat makers workshop on the marshes, where there is also an outdoor restaurant from April to October with vegetables supplied from the magnificent, organic market garden next door.

Les Jardins de Séricourt

With the distinction of being a Jardin Remarquable, this garden between Arras and Hesdin is just lovely. Whatever season you visit in, there’s something to admire, from the formal yet playful topiary gardens and thought-provoking sculpture and design in the war and peace garden, to the Japanese gardens, filled with the largest collection of the nation’s roses in Europe. It has one of the most spectacular displays of summer roses you will ever see, with fragrant rambling and climbing varieties and colourful clematis climbing and weaving its way throughout. With an exhibition space and an English tearoom on site, these gardens with their carefully orchestrated structure and informality, are the perfect place to while away a day.

Le Jardin des Lianes

Another jardin remarquable, very close to Hesdin, Le Jardin des Lianes features specimen trees that provide colour from spring right through to autumn. The garden has swathes of fragrant viburnums, drifts of romantic hydrangeas, including many Japanese varieties, and 400 different English and traditional roses.

Château Flore

15 minutes east of Hesdin (which has a superb Thursday morning market), this garden surrounds the castle that gives it its name. Owned by the same family since it was built in 1717. It’s owned and run by Alexandre de Boncourt and his English wife Ithaca. Alexandre’s father created the existing gardens that form a beautiful and elegant backdrop to the imposing chateau. There is a fragrant alley of English lavender, an edible and medicinal arboretum and a very impressive collection of hydrangeas.

Close to Château Flore, at Bermicourt, is the memorial to the British Army Tank Corps led by General Haig in World War One from headquarters at the Château de Bermicourt. The original scale model of the Mark 1 tank was removed during World War Two and scrapped. The current replacement was installed in 1955 by the Royal Tank Regiment in honour of their predecessors.

Le Jardin du Château d’Hardelot

Hardelot Castle just minutes from the beaches of Hardelot. Built by Englishman Sir John Hare on the site of a medieval castle which was largely destroyed many years before, it makes for a fascinating visit with rooms that are sumptuously decorated. Visits to the formal parterre gardens are free and feature a mix of Renaissance and Tudor elements commemorating King Francois I of France and England’s Henry VIII who famously jousted nearby at the Field of the Cloth of Gold in Guines.  There is a nature reserve alongside the castle, walks through the dunes to the beach and the site itself has a theatre and a tearoom.

Le Jardin de la Goutte d’Eau

This jewel of a garden just outside of Montreuil-sur-Mer celebrates moisture-loving plants in a series of English-style garden rooms. Around three-quarters of an acre in size, with a pond and woodland as well as a rose garden and vegetable gardens, there are quirky and interesting sculptures, arbours and decorations throughout the garden that provide plenty of inspiration for those who like to upcycle and reuse materials.

Wild ‘gardens’

The forest of Boulogne-sur-Mer is the largest in the department, covering some 4000 acres. It’s a haven for wildlife including protected bird species. with routes for walking, mountain biking and horse riding. In Spring, when the bluebells hibernate, the ground is covered in wild garlic, first said to have been planted by the legions of Julius Caesar whose camp was close by.

The cliff tops of Les Deux Caps are home to many varieties of wildflower and fauna. Protective paths lead you through the sandy landscape, alive with colour year-round.  The fields are filled with poppies and daisies in the spring, and as the sun warms the land the summer crops come to fruition, a kaleidoscope of colour.

In Autumn, everywhere the woodlands that spread across the countryside, take on a golden hue, dramatic colours can be seen throughout the area making you stop in your tracks.

Lush and undulating, fields hedged with hawthorn, wild roses, blackberries and sloe berries, speckled with hamlets, dotted with forests and fringed with stunning coastline – Pas-de-Calais’ great outdoors is one big garden.

Find out more

For locations, opening times and further details on these and the many, many more gardens and garden related events in Pas-de-Calais, as well as mouth-watering restaurants, enchanting places to stay and lots of information about the region visit visitpasdecalais.com

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Discover the best place in France for beer lovers, breweries, brasseries & a superb range of beers served with a warm northern French welcome!

The north of France, and in particular Pas-de-Calais, is home to some rich, individual and superbly refreshing craft micro-breweries. It is also where you’ll find one of the largest breweries in France, producing an astonishing 400 million pints of ale a year.

Bottoms up – the beauty of beer production in Pas-de-Calais

With a culture and cuisine that sets it apart from the rest of France, Pas-de-Calais has a reputation for warmth and hospitality and for creating very fine beers indeed. And because this is France, the love of beer obviously isn’t just about drinking it: some delicious and hearty local dishes use the beverage as an essential ingredient. Carbonnade flamande features slow-cooked beef and amber or dark beer and Le Welsh is like a boozy Welsh rarebit drenched in a cheese and, usually blond, beer sauce. There’s even beer tart! What’s not to love?

Wetting your Whistle

Quench your thirst with a locally brewed beer at a plethora of breweries where it’s possible to visit and take part in a beer-tasting, often while seeing how it is made. You’ll also find that nearby estaminets, a style of pub or café, but distinctive to northern France and Belgium, will serve very local beers, usually with food if you want it, in a friendly and informal setting like a brasserie. The range of beers on offer is varied. As well as blond, amber and wheat beers, local breweries sometimes produce stouts and often use aromatic herbs to flavour the various beers they produce.

Some breweries offer seasonal or speciality beers too. A ‘spring beer’ will often be light, sweet and even floral. This beer was traditionally brewed in early December, to be ready to drink in the spring, and was exposed to allow natural yeasts to develop. A bière de garde, literally a beer for keeping, “bière de garde” can be kept longer than a regular beer but it actually means that the beer has been kept longer to allow a double fermentation, is brewed in the autumn and stored, usually until the following year but sometimes for years, to allow complex flavours to develop. Christmas beers, or bières de Noël, are richer and usually stronger, often spiced with exotic flavours and worthy of celebrating. Traditionally brewed by monks, they have a history that probably stretches back two thousand years to pagan winter festivities.

Brasserie Goudale

Based in Arques near the historic town of Saint-Omer, this large, modern brewery is one of France’s biggest, and produces millions and millions of litres of beer a year. With nearly thirty varieties on offer, including low alcohol, seasonal and organic varieties and the renowned Belzebuth range. La Goudale is one of the local favourites, an aromatic blond beer you’ll find in many parts of Europe, not just France. visitez-goudale.com

Brasserie des 2 Caps

This brewery in Tardinghen takes its name from the impressive nearby Cap Gris-Nez and Cap Blanc-Nez, both with towering cliffs that face the English Channel and the force of the weather. The brewery uses locally grown barley, some grown on site, to create craft beers. The range includes the white beer Blanche de Wissant and the Noire de Slack stout. The beers are refermented in the bottle and the brewery’s website includes recipe suggestions for local dishes to make using specific beers. 2caps.fr

Quentovic Brewery

This brewery between Montreuil-sur-Mer and Hesdin has 10 permanent beer varieties and a couple of seasonal ones. It takes its name from an ancient port along the banks of the local River Canche that was destroyed by the Vikings. The brewery was founded in 2014 by brothers who wanted to experiment with different styles of beer to escape what they saw as the industrialised options available to them at the time.  For each of their beers, the brothers suggest which food it may pair with, and their brewery has a tap room and shop on site, allowing you to sample their beers before you buy them. quentovic.com/en

Abbaye de Clairmarais

These beers, made on the site of a former 12th century abbey in the countryside just outside Saint-Omer, continue the noble tradition of monastic brewing. The brewery now creates single, double, triple and even quadruple beers, varying in strength and flavour. They use spices such as juniper, blackthorn, aniseed, laurel, rosemary and gentian in their beers, which were traditionally used to make gruit, the ancestor of modern beer. With no permanent shop on site, the beers are sold in local shops, restaurants and bars in Saint-Omer. abbayedeclairmarais.fr/

Saint-Germain Brewery

This brewery was created in 2003 and often collaborates with other local microbreweries to create individual beers. The brewery is based just outside Lens in the village of Aix-Noulette and is named after the village’s patron saint. With stouts, pale ales and bières de garde as well as more traditional offerings, the brewery offers guided tours and tastings and there is a tap room on site allowing you to sample the beers before you buy. page24.fr/en

Castelain Brewery

Benifontaine, just outside Lens, is the location for this microbrewery founded in 1926 and with three generations of brewing expertise. It prioritises quality and a respect for the environment and uses traditional local production methods. The brewery offers five different beers, two of which are organic, each with a depth of flavour and its own unique character.  Visits that end with a tasting session are also available. brasseriecastelain.com

Find out more information about beer tourism and loads of things to do in Pas-de-Calais: visitpasdecalais.com

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