Medieval towns of northern France

Deep in the glorious countryside of Pas-de-Calais, in the far north of France, history has played its hand over and over. Janine Marsh explores the medieval towns of northern France in the little known 7 Valleys…

The lush green valleys of Pas-de-Calais are crossed by rivers and streams, woods and forests, ancient turf bogs and osier beds where willow is grown and coppiced. This is a place shaped by battle, ruled at times by the English, Spanish, Austrian and French, and it’s an area which offers visitors a glimpse into centuries past, as well as offering a taste of the tranquil French way of life.

Although a small area it is very diverse, in places flat, in others quite mountainous. Once you turn off the main roads that cut through the countryside you will find yourself in an altogether different world. The undulating wooded valleys and the traditional rural architecture of the “fermettes”, long low farmhouses, are truly lovely, especially in spring when carpets of wood anemones and bluebells cover the ground of the forests. And along the banks of the rivers, towns, villages and buildings have sprung up over centuries, all with stories to tell.

Azincourt 1415

Several battles shaped the early history of Pas-de-Calais, and one of the most famous took place in Azincourt on October 25, 1415. Picture a weary, hungry, and disease-ridden English army led by King Henry V coming up against a French army with many more men, more food and more energy. But the unthinkable happened, the English with their formidable archers, won the day. The French dead numbered some 6000 versus a few hundred English lost (read more about this historic battle here). Among the French dead were hundreds of knights, the majority from the north, Pas-de-Calais, Normandy, and Picardy. Many were buried in the grounds of local churches – 27 of them known to be at the nearby Abbey of Auchy-lès-Hesdin including Gallois de Fougières, the first gendarme to die in combat.

Discover all about the battle, the knights, the local people and the life and times at the Centre Azincourt 1415 where immersive scenography brings history to life. Delve into the contents of a medieval soldier’s bag, feel the weight of a knight’s sword, have a go at reloading a crossbow, read poems of the day, listen to music of the Middle Ages, and get an understanding of the conflict and what led to it at this fascinating museum.

The battle took place at nearby Tramecourt, just down the road from the centre. Now a charming, preserved village, a majestic avenue of century-old lime trees leads to the castle of the Marquis de Tramecourt and the church, where members of the family lost to the battle are buried.
Open year-round: azincourt1415.com

Montreuil-sur-Mer

The walled upper town of Montreuil-sur-Mer perched on a plateau overlooking the Canche Valley sounds like it’s on the nearby Opal Coast (mer meaning sea), but in fact it’s landlocked. In the Middle Ages though, it was a thriving port town. Then the river Canche which flowed at its base was navigable all the way to the sea, now about 10km away. The city was prosperous, much coveted and fought over by amongst others, Plantagenet Kings, Burgundians, Spanish and English King Henry VIII whose troops ran amok here in 1537.

The remains of the past are evident in the town’s labyrinth of narrow cobbled streets, ancient houses, the 12^th century Church of St Saulve with its flamboyant-Gothic chapel, the neo-gothic Chapelle de l’Hôtel-Dieu, founded in 1200 and reconstructed in 1875 by Clovis Normand, a pupil of Violet le Duc, and, at the citadel with its chateau remains, parts of which go back to the 13th Century. Inside the porch entrance of the chateau are the Coats of Arms of local knights who rode out from here to die fighting against Henry V and his army at Agincourt.

Enjoy the many bars and restaurants in the town, including the Hauts de France, built in 1537. And if you want more history, head to the base of the town and explore the vast Chartreuse de Neuville, a charterhouse founded in 1323. Now open to the public, it’s an extraordinary building with a fascinating history, glorious gardens and hosts concerts and exhibitions regularly. www.destinationmontreuilloisencotedopale.com

Chateau de Fressin

The Chateau of Fressin was built in the early 1400s by Jean de Crequy, advisor to Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy. The chateau was dismantled by Louis XIV in the 17th century, but the remains are an impressive reminder of its former glory and importance.

In the grounds of the ancient flamboyant-Gothic style church of Saint Martin in the lovely little village of Fressin, are the graves of several knights who died at Azincourt along with the entrails of King Henry V’s uncle, Edward, Duke of York. A band of French knights mistakenly thought they had killed the English King and rejoiced, causing huge confusion. The Duke’s bones were taken back to England. Also interred in the church is Jean IV of Crequy whose wife Jeanne commissioned the chapel in 1425.

Visit the castle fof Fressin and its pretty gardens (April to September) where events are regularly held.

Vieil-Hesdin

Little remains of the once flourishing town of Vieil-Hesdin, made prosperous thanks to the wool processing industry that developed here in the 11^th century. It was surrounded by ramparts and ditches around an impressive castle, one-time base of Burgundian John the Fearless, father of Philip the Good, and here he manufactured his weapons and painted his pennants. The gardens of the castle were once legendary, filled with exotic beasts, a glass chapel, and medieval automatons. But in 1533, Charles V of Spain ordered its destruction, and he then built a new Hesdin just 6km away with a palace for his sister Marie of Hungary. Now the town hall, the Spanish coat of arms is still engraved above the door.

There are still a few remains of the pleasure palace that was once here, and you can discover more about the town’s history at the Vieil Hesdin Historic Site. Open April – September

Donjon de Bours

The tranquil village of Bours is home to a 14th century medieval castle, a rare example of a knight’s residence in northern France. You can take a guided tour of the Donjon de Bours and discover the life of a medieval lord, and the history of this remarkable building which was fought over by King Francis 1 of France and Holy Roman Emperor Charles V in the early 1500s. Visit a local boulangerie and you may see a cake named in the latter’s honour – the digit de Charles V, a long cream and jam filled bun representing the Emperor’s gout-ridden finger (it tastes much better than it sounds!). Open year-round

Commanderie du Bois-Saint-Jean, Wamin

Close to Auchy-les-Hesdin are the remarkably preserved buildings of the Commandery of the Order of the Knights Hospitallers of Saint John of Jerusalem. Founded in the 12th century by Philip of Alsace, it is next to the former park of the Dukes of Burgundy. You can visit the building, a stunning architectural example of the Middle Ages, and take a stroll in the glorious countryside around. Open July/August.

You can purchase a Medieval Network passport at local tourist offices for reduced rates to all the places mentioned and find out more on Escapades Medievales Facebook page