Come to Pas-de-Calais in the Hauts-de-France region and you’ll discover an area of ancient history and rich culture, fringed by the glorious Opal Coast and brimming with historic villages and quaint hamlets which pepper the bucolic countryside. But what I love most about this friendly region – is its gastronomy says local Janine Marsh.

The gastronomy of Pas-de-Calais is unique. Its flavours come from the rich natural bounty of its fertile land and sea. It takes a pinch of influence from its Flemish past. And it’s seasoned by – well the seasons, in the far tip of northern France, it’s the rain and temperate climate that makes this area the vegetable garden of France. Come here with stretchy trousers and a healthy appetite because you’re going to be feasting like a lord…

La Mer

Pas-de-Calais is home to France’s biggest fish port – Boulogne-sur-Mer and restaurants in the region serve a wide range of the freshest fish from lobsters and mussels to langoustine and herring. Each morning, after a 5am auction, fish is delivered all over northern France and to the famous food market at Rungis in Paris. It might be early, but you’ll still be able to get breakfast. From 4.30am – 4.30pm La Chatillon restaurant, an institution in Bourgogne, serves fishermen and anyone else who loves great food – their seafood is superb.

Fish fit for a Queen

Journey along the beautiful coastal roads of the Opal Coast and you’ll pass by authentic fishing villages where traditional little wooden boats are parked outside houses and fishermen sell their catch direct from their garages.

Don’t miss Boulogne’s fabulous fish market where artisans (local fish) and commercants (fish from further afield) put on a colourful display of fish from scallops and sardines to spider crab and sea bream. At Solutions Fish Market stall the seller tells me “I’ve won 17 awards for quality of fish, I even had a message from Queen Elizabeth II about my award as a supplier to the royal table – the first French fisherman to win such an award from the Queen.”

The King of fish

If you like your fish smoked, you’re in for a treat here. 100 years ago there were dozens of fish smokers in the town, now there are just four including Accary, famous for their smoked herring – AKA the king of the fish in this part of the world.

This artisan producer consists of just 5 people who clean, cut, salt, smoke and pack the fresh fish delivered daily – a process that takes just 24 hours for herring, and a little longer for salmon. Smoked in huge stone chimneys called ‘corresses’ using oak and beechwood shavings, they’ve been working this way for almost 80 years and have won numerous awards including a coveted EPV and red label. The ashes are removed weekly and used by a local soap producer, any fish waste is used in cosmetics and animal food production. Nothing is wasted.

You won’t find Accary fish in supermarket only in good fish shops and gourmet shops, or go direct to their smokery and ring the bell – you’ll get a warm welcome. “We have a lot of happy customers” says Ludovic Sodorge, “even the gendarmes come here for their fish!” accarysalaisons.fr

It would be a sin to go to the Opal Coast and not eat well. At the Atlantic-Delpierre Hotel in Wimereux, a lovely seaside resort that’s renowned for its colourful Belle Epoque villas, push the boat out at Michelin-starred restaurant La Liégeoise. Chef Benjamin Delpierre weaves magic in the kitchen to create an exquisite menu that includes oysters with candied lemon marmalade, seaweed butter and a scrumptious peanut and chocolate dessert that I still dream of! On the first floor, La Liégeoise has stunning views over the sea, perfect for the extraordinary sunsets that the Opal Coast is known for. On the ground floor is Brasserie L’Aloze which also has a great menu – the smoked salmon with matcha tea waffle and carrot, ginger and yuzu cream is memorable.

Details: Reserve a room and table at Hotel Atlantic-Delpierre. All rooms face the sea, there’s a well-being spa and tranquil atmosphere – this hotel is a relaxing hideaway and a luxurious little gem.

La Terre

Over the last decade or so, chefs have flocked to create restaurants here, especially those who love to work with seasonal, organic and local produce. They’re lured by the tasty treasures, the quality and range of ingredients on offer, from saffron grown on the coast to the excellent cereal which (in my opinion, and I am a bit of a cake expert!) makes for the best bread and cakes in France, as well as vegetables grown in the historic marsh area of Saint-Omer. Covering an area smaller than New York City, the agricultural output of Pas-de-Calais is astonishing with premium production of many vegetables including sugar beet, chicory for coffee and beer, and endives as well as sustainable animal farming.

Those chefs have brought with them diverse food heritages from France and all around the world. Chef Christophe Dufossé is one of them. Born in Calais, he moved to Metz in Lorraine, northeast France before deciding to come back to the region. Searching for the perfect place to open his restaurant he knew that he had found it when he stayed at the Hotel Chateau de Beaulieu in Busnes, formerly run by 3 Michelin starred chef Mark Meurin who was contemplating retirement. Since 2021, Chef Dufosse and wife Delphine have breathed new life into the 17th century chateau, creating a spa area, and expanding the 5-star hotel rooms and restaurant space. They’ve also cultivated part of the enormous estate which now boasts beautiful potagers and orchards which provide at least 50% of the fruit and vegetables used in the kitchen. Their efforts have won them a rare Michelin Green Star, awarded to chefs who are leaders and innovators in the field of sustainable gastronomy.

Chef Dufosse’s team includes 28 chefs – expert patissiers, chocolatiers, glaciers, charcutiers, boulangiers and sweet makers. He works with around 40 local producers, fishermen, market gardeners and farmers. In his 2 Michelin-starred restaurant gastronomique and brasserie Cote Jardin, you’ll feast on the most mouth-watering of dishes, this is more than lunch or dinner, it’s an epic-urean experience. And whatever you do – leave room for dessert, resistance is simply futile. www.lechateaudebeaulieu.fr

From the UK, DFDS offers up to 30 daily sailings on its Dover to Calais service and up to 24 daily sailings from Dover to Dunkirk. Rest and relax in the exclusive Premium Lounge where you can enjoy complimentary hot and cold drinks, sandwiches, and snack. Add Priority Boarding to be one of the first to board and disembark the ferry. Browse DFDS’ duty-free shops onboard and at the ports and save up to 50 per cent off UK high-street prices on some of your favourite brands.

For more information and to book your next trip with DFDS, visit www.dfds.com

3 more places to experience a taste of Pas-de-Calais

Head to Houlle to try the world’s best genièvre (genever), a local speciality that’s like a Dutch gin. The Distillerie Genièvre de Houlle is home to the oldest grain distillery in use in France – making small batches of this hairs-on-your-chest drink since 1812.

Cheese heads will love the artisan-made regional frommages of the Frères Bernard at Wierre Effroy. You can watch the cheeses being made, including mouth-watering Mimolette – then scoff them without moderation!

Try the divine beer at the ancient Abbey de Clairmarais, Saint-Omer, where beer has been made for centuries.

Janine Marsh is the author of  several internationally best-selling books about France. Her latest book How to be French – a celebration of the French lifestyle and art de vivre, is out now – a look at the French way of life. Find all books on her website janinemarsh.com

Want more France?

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Any time is perfect to head to Pas-de-Calais and soak up the region’s rich culture and heritage, its authentic homegrown cuisine, take a stroll on the beach and enjoy the captivating coastal scenery. But in Autumn, this area is especially good for a feel-good break. Relax and be invigorated by the fresh air and the flaming colours of autumn. Indulge in superb gastronomy and enjoy the many cultural and historic treasures.

Historic Cities and Cultural hotspots

Meet the Greeters and discover the secret hotspots only the locals know about. The greeter system operates across the region with volunteer guides showing you around ‘their’ France, sharing snippets of local history to groups of up to six. Completely free. greeters62.com/en/

Arras is the perfect small city to leave the car behind and take a stroll. The two main squares are unique in Europe, lined with columned arcades and 155 houses in sumptuous baroque Flemish style. The cobbled Place des Héros, is dominated by the UNESCO-listed belfry which tops the architecturally glorious town hall. Voted France’s favourite monument in 2015, the 75m high platform is the perfect perch from which to drink in the magnificent views over the town. And say hello to the giants, adored heritage figures of the north of France, who stand guard on the ground floor.

Medieval Montreuil-sur-Mer sits atop a hill overlooking the Dordogne-like countryside of the Seven Valleys – there is no sea despite mention of la mer in the name. Take a wander round the ramparts, visit the 16^th century Citadel which was fortified by Louis XIV’s engineer Vauban, and stroll the cobbled streets and squares, squeeze through the narrow medieval alleyways, admire the ateliers and quirky boutiques, and stop for a mug of steaming hot chocolate in the main square in front of the pretty Italianate theatre. It was in this town in 1837 that Victor Hugo stopped for lunch and was so impressed by his experiences in the town, it inspired him to write Les Misérables.

The Louvre-Lens museum, a branch of the Louvre in Paris has an incredible collection of artworks from across the history of humanity that are shown in an astoundingly beautiful modern building. There’s plenty to do around the Louvre-Lens too!

Bring history lessons to life

Indelibly marked by two world wars, there are many major remembrance sites in Pas-de-Calais and many museums and monuments pay homage. 139 cemeteries and memorial sites on the former Western Front of World War One have been listed on the UNESCO World Heritage List as at 20 September 2023: 96 in France of which 14 are in Pas-de-Calais, 43 in Belgium – 16 in Wallonia, 27 in Flanders. visitpasdecalais.com/ww1-western-front-listed-to-unesco

In Arras, the Commonwealth War Graves Commission Experience in Beaurains offers a fascinating glimpse into the organisation’s painstaking work maintaining Commonwealth cemeteries, monuments, and memorials around the world. And the nearby Wellington Tunnels are an immersive memorial to the Battle of Arras, a step back in time to the First World War.

La Coupole near Saint-Omer, a 55,000-tonne concrete dome with 18 feet thick walls, is where Hitler had a secret V2 rocket base built. Today it is a fascinating and haunting historical and scientific museum, and home to the most advanced planetarium in the world. With a unique 15m wide screen with 10K resolution, watch incredible 3D films from interactive seats.

In the port towns of Calais and all around the Opal coast you’ll find monuments, memorials and museums dedicated to the two world wars and offering a fascinating window to the past. Don’t miss the Atlantic Wall Museum in Audinghen, a German World War II fortress with its eerily undisturbed relics from uniforms to cutlery and cups. Outside is an incredibly well-preserved and rare railway gun.

Climb Napoleon’ Column in Wimille on the outskirts of Boulogne-sur-Mer. Here, in 1804 the great general and Emperor of France mustered his forces and had 2000 ships built, in sight of England. Though the planned invasion never took place, Napoleon began the tradition of the Legion d’Honneur medals, and the moment is marked by this immense column. Climb 263 steps for eye-popping views over the English Channel.

Azincourt 1415 Museum takes you further back in time and tells the tumultuous tale of one of history’s most famous battles: Agincourt. Brush up on the history of this monumental moment in time, where the battle was over in just hours, making the British victors and King Henry V legends for the rest of time.

Meanwhile you can get a feel for how a Lord lived in the 14th century at the wonderfully preserved fortified Chateau d’Olhain in Fresnicourt-le-Dolmen

Beach life

The Opal Coast stretches for 75 miles and takes in golden sandy beaches, dramatic cliffs, charming bays, ancient castles, seaside resorts, and authentic little fishing villages. Discover the Belle Epoque charms of Wimereux, the authentic charms of Audresselles and the historic castle and centre of Entente Cordiale in Hardelot. Enjoy a gentle walk or a bracing hike – along the cliff tops at Audinghen, new walkways take you safely across the cliff tops, protecting the environment and offering jaw-dropping views over the English Channel and the White Cliffs of Dover which are easy to see on a clear day. All that fresh air is going to build up an appetite – and you’re in luck because this area offers outstanding gastronomy.

Authentic gastronomy

You’ll find a huge range of restaurants in Pas-de-Calais from Michelin-starred to estaminets, Flemish style inns, and friteries where you can buy chips and sausages in a baguette, a favourite with the locals and the perfect food to sit on the beach and watch the views. Fish stars on many menus, Boulogne-sur-Mer being France’s biggest fishing port, and local dishes that are unique to this area that will definitely tickle your taste buds. Le Welsh – a cheesy concoction that is perfect for breezy days. Carbonnade Flammande, beef cooked in beer with gingerbread is absolutely delicious, ideal autumn comfort food. And how about beer tart (it tastes like treacle tart!), and sugar tart? They have a sweet tooth here in this part of France where sugar beet is a main crop, which is why you’ll find in Pas-de-Calais some of the very best patisseries in all of France.

Autumn in Pas-de-Calais is surprising – and delicious!

Find out more fabulous things to do in the Pas-de-Calais at: visitpasdecalais.com

Want more France?

Discover more fabulous destinations in France with our free magazine The Good Life France

Love France? Have a listen to our podcast – everything you want to know about France and more!

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Nip across the Channel and discover real Pas-de-Calais, a land of authentic fishing villages with a timeless beauty, Belle Epoque seaside resorts, historic towns, and world class cultural attractions…

The Opal Coast – perfect for beach lovers

Strung like pearls, tiny fishing villages and seaside resorts dot the shoreline of the Opal Coast. These hidden gems have long lured tourists, celebrities, royalty, and jet setters, as well as artists drawn to its light-filled beauty. Le Touquet Paris-Plage was once the jet set capital of Europe. It was home to the biggest hotel the world had ever seen in the early 20th century. Impressed by the town’s glamour, Ian Fleming wrote Casino Royale based on Le Touquet’s casino. The Scottish actor Sean Connery signed his first Bond contract there. Charles Dickens loved this area saying, “if only it were but 300 miles further off… how the English would rave about it.”

If you’re sporty – you’ll be in your element. There are activities galore from sailing and horse riding to sand yachting and golf.

If you’re more into culture and history, you’ll be spoiled for choice with festivals and events. Don’t miss the annual crab festival at tranquil Audresselles (June), and the herring festival at historic Etaples (November). Plus there are loads of markets and museums, there’s always something going on.

One of the most beautiful coastal roads of France

And for those who want to relax, the endless sandy beaches are perfect for the whole family. Follow the D940 road around the coast, up and down hills, a route that’s lined with stunning scenery. You’ll pass through authentic fishing villages where you can buy the freshest of just-caught fish from the front gardens of fishermen. Stop off to discover memorials and museums like the Todt Battery, Museum of the Atlantic Wall in Audinghen. Then take in the glorious clifftop scenery as you drop into the lovely seaside town of Wimereux.

Napoleon I was responsible for Wimereux’s development. He commissioned the foundation of a town and a port for his Grand Army. It was from this part of Pas-de-Calias that the Emperor intended to conquer England, clearly visible on clear days from the Opal Coast.

Nearby Merlimont-Plage, once a small fishing village, that became a seaside favourite with Parisians thanks to the arrival of the rail, is ideal for families. You can climb the dunes, visit a nature reserve, and go fishing the French way – on foot with a bucket or net at low tide. There’s also the Bagatelle theme park that’s bags of fun and suitable even for the youngest.

And at Le Portel, along the coast of Boulogne-sur-Mer, there is a feeling as if time has stood still with the little fishing cottages, wooden fishing boats parked on the beach, and fabulous views over the English Channel.

Perfect for history buffs

Boulogne-sur-Mer – A city by the sea

Boulogne-sur-Mer is where you’ll find a beautifully preserved old town. At it’s heart is the Basilica Notre Dame which has the biggest crypt in France (dating back to Roman times). Cobbled stone streets, ancient buildings, a chateau museum, quirky shops, and scrumptious restaurants – and don’t miss the UNESCO listed Belfry where you’ll see cannon balls fired on the town by King Henry VIII.

There’s also the biggest aquarium in Europe here. Nausicaá has sharks that swim around you in a glass tunnel, fish, sea lions, penguins, turtles, crocodiles, and many species of the marine world. With several events each day, including feeding the penguins, sea lion training sessions, and backstage tours – it’s an unmissable stop in the town. Plus, there’s a fabulous market which takes place on a Saturday morning. And nearby you’ll find one of the best cheese shops of northern France – Philippe Olivier – just follow your nose!

Montreuil-sur Mer – the town that inspired Les Misérables

Or, head to Montreuil-sur-Mer, a picture-perfect town perched on a hill. Go in the Summer to watch the townspeople dress up for a show stopping performance of Les Misérables. It’s performed on the ramparts in homage to Victor Hugo’s famous story which was inspired by his visit to this town. Wander the cobbled streets lined with ancient houses. Enjoy the stunning views over the countryside from the ramparts encircling the town. And pop to the old citadel with its fascinating little museum.

Agincourt – the Legend

The totally revamped Agincourt museum (2021) aims to tell the true story of the great 15^th century battle and provides new detail about the Anglo-French conflict dubbed The Hundred Years War. The Agincourt museum gives a lot of information in an easy and digestible way – in French and in English. Try games like Sovereigns of the Hundred Years’ War. Discover what soldiers ate and words from the Middle Ages. You’ll discover details of daily life, the clothes of the period, the illnesses, and medieval medical treatment.

Perfect for Culture Vultures

Museums and Unesco listed belfries

The world class Louvre-Lens museum is a branch of the Paris Louvre. There are hundreds of artworks covering 5000 years of history. The museum itself is an architectural marvel and with regularly changing exhibitions, it’s a cultural giant of France.

Look out for the UNESCO-listed belfries of the region. They were built in the Middle Ages as a symbol of the freedom of local communities. There are six remaining in Pas-de-Calais (with many more in the Nord department and in Belgium). You’ll find them in the historic towns of Aire-sur-la-Lys, Arras, Bethune, Calais, Boulogne and Hesdin, now a tranquil little market town but once a stronghold of the Spanish crown.

Cite de la Dentelle et de la Mode de Calais – Calais Lace and Fashion Museum of Calais hosts a permanent exhibition including fashion designs, lace samples and lingerie. Each year the museum hosts a world class exhibition. 2023 showcases a unique and astounding collection of designs by one of France’s greatest couturiers, Yves Saint Laurent. The City of Lace puts on events every week including lace making demonstrations, sewing workshops, weaving, silkscreen printing and more for children and adults throughout the summer see their website for more details

With so much to do year-round, any time is the perfect time to visit Pas-de-Calais.

Discover heaps of things to see and do in Pas-de-Calais: visitpasdecalais.com

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There are no real winners when two nations fall out, but today we live in an age when wars can rumble on for years and involve countless civilian casualties. So it’s a surreal experience to visit the Agincourt Museum next to a field where an international conflict – legendary for hundreds of years – was all wrapped up before teatime.

The Battle of Agincourt kicked off in heavy rain late in the morning of October 25th 1415, St Crispin’s Day. And by mid-afternoon, the cream of French nobility had been cut down in the mud by the firepower of English archers.

The English army

The English army, now believed to be around 8,500 men, were marching to Calais to return home by boat after a campaign in Normandy. They were led by King Henry V, and faced a French army of around 12,000 men. Henry’s army of English soldiers and largely from Wales archers, were already exhausted and suffering from dysentery. Some of them removed their trousers and fought half naked. Many of them kissed the earth of this corner of Pas de Calais in northern France. They believed they would be buried in it later that day. Henry V heard Mass, not just once, but three times.

The French army

The French were led by the Constable of France Charles d’Albret and Marshal Jean II le Meingre (Boucicaut). The battle ‘barely lasted a few hours’ says Ludovic Hiltenbrand, manager of the Centre Azincourt 1415. But it was a decisive victory for the English and became the stuff of legend. The French, wearing heavy armour and bogged down in mud were cut down as armour-piercing arrows with a range of 250 yards were unleashed from the innovative longbows of their enemy. Among the lost was Gallois de Fougières, a Marshall of France. He was effectively the first recorded gendarme to have died in the line of duty. The uniformed official we know today, the ‘Gendarme’, is a derivative of ‘gens d’armes’, or people with arms (weapons), hence the expression ‘to take up arms.’

Look for Agincourt on the map and you won’t find it. The village is actually called Azincourt, nestled in the lush countryside of The Seven Valleys. The change of spelling is down to a mispronunciation by an English knight. When asked by Henry V for the name of the nearby fortress he pronounced it Agincourt.

You can still see the field where the face off took place. Most of it is now farmland and all of it bordered by quiet country roads – a 4km circuit on foot or by car.

In the heart of the village, you’ll find the excellent Centre Azincourt 1415 museum.

Centre Azincourt 1415 – The Agincourt Museum

The totally revamped Agincourt museum (2021) aims to tell the true story of the great 15^th century battle and provides new detail about the Anglo-French conflict dubbed The Hundred Years War.

The new museum was designed by British Professor and author Anne Curry Emeritus Professor of Medieval History at the University of Southampton and French historian and author Christophe Gillot, Director of the Centre. They pored over material pertaining to the Battle of Agincourt that has survived in the National archives in the UK as well as chronicles and material in France. Their work has led to a new understanding of the battle.

The legend of Agincourt

For many centuries much of our ‘knowledge’ of Agincourt has come from William Shakespeare. Who can listen and not be moved by the stirring speeches the English king gives in Shakespeare’s Henry V (1599):

‘Once more unto the breach, dear friends, once more;
And
‘We few, we happy few, we band of brothers’

They are words which have inspired time and again, representing “Englishness” and triumph in the face of adversity. Some 500 years later Laurence Olivier’s famous film of the play, released in 1944, was dedicated to the commandos and airborne troops who made D-Day possible. A great piece of propaganda.

But not everything we think we know is true. And the Centre Azincourt1415 sets out to dispel the myths and examine the real and extraordinary story.

The Agincourt museum gives a lot of information in an easy and digestible way – in French and in English. Try games like Sovereigns of the Hundred Years’ War. Discover what soldiers ate, and words from the Middle Ages, and details of daily life, the clothes of the period, the illnesses, the treating of wounds.

The section devoted to armour shows how different ranks were protected. Of course, the richer you were, the better your equipment. A video demonstrates how a knight put on his armour (not an easy task). And you get a chance to feel the weight of a helmet, handle a medieval sword and feel the force needed to shoot a longbow. There are interactive screens to play with, videos and clever touches – listen to the Hundred Years’ War explained in 100 seconds.

The Centre Azincourt 1415 puts on events every year – medieval banquets, Night at the Museum, exhibitions and more. (See the website below for details).

What to see around and about

But Azincourt isn’t the only reason to stop over in this delightful area of gentle, rolling farmland dotted with small villages and farms. Five small rivers flow south to join two larger rivers – the Canche and Authie, hence the name Seven Valleys. Drop into the Tourist Office in historic Hesdin for information on outdoor activities such as hiking, cycling and fishing.

Follow the Canche through the Seven Valleys towards its estuary at Le Touquet and you pass through Montreuil-sur-Mer. Definitely worth a stopover in anyone’s book for its rampart walks, historic citadel and cobbled streets. It’s here that Victor Hugo set part of Les Misérables.

Montreuil has also become a hot destination for foodies, thanks to an indecent number of good restaurants for a town of just 2,500 people. Enjoy Alexandre Gauthier’s Michelin-starred fare at La Grenouillère beneath the ramparts. Or a traditional flammekueche at Le Caveau.

Montreuil has plenty of interesting independent shops, the sort you rarely see on British high streets nowadays. Cheese fans should pack a cool bag to stock up from Fromagerie Caseus on Place Général de Gaulle. A large market is held on the square on Saturday mornings. On the opposite corner, Aux Douceurs d’Antan stocks a range of local products from chocolates and biscuits to soup, jam and beer. Children will love Dragibonbons, a sweet shop on rue d’Hérambault that makes its own themed ‘cakes’ from sweets. Whilst Oliviers near the Citadel is an Aladdin’s cave of wines and spirits.

By Gillian Thornton and Janine Marsh

DETAILS

Centre Azincourt 1415, 24 rue Charles VI, 62310 Azincourt, www.azincourt1415.com
Open all year round: 10 am – 5:30 pm except Tuesdays (10am – 4:30pm); July/August: 10 am – 6:30 pm

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Less than 30 minutes drive from Calais port lies Wimereux, a Belle Epoque seaside town on the Opal Coast. It is though best reached by taking the ‘route 66’ of northern France which may take longer as you’re unlikely to be able to resist stopping off. You’ll drive on uncrowded roads, past meadows and pastures where curious cows lift their heads. You’ll pass through authentic fishing villages where you can buy the freshest of just caught fish from the front gardens of fishermen and their families. You can stop off to discover memorials and museums. The D940 takes you up and down hills until you drop into Wimereux, just before you reach Boulogne-sur-Mer. Discover what to see and do in Wimereux – it’s not big, but it is beautiful.

Belle Epoque fantasy

The Opal coast has long lured tourists, celebrities, royalty and jetsetters. President de Gaulle holidayed in Wissant just 20km from Wimereux. Charles Dickens loved this area saying “if only it were but 300 miles further off… how the English would rave about it.” A little further round the coast, Le Touquet Paris-Plage was once the jetset capital of Europe, home to the biggest hotel the world had ever seen in the early 20th century. Impressed by the town’s glamour, Ian Fleming wrote Casino Royale based on Le Touquet’s casino, and Sean Connery signed his first Bond contract there.

Wimereux is rather more sedate than Le Touquet, but doesn’t lack for glamour. Its Belle Epoque villas in the Anglo-Norman style, are whimsical but impressive. Decorative facades are painted in all the colours of the rainbow and sprinkled throughout the streets which lead to the long sandy beach.

What to see and do in Wimereux

Napoleon I was responsible for Wimereux’s development. He commissioned the foundation of a town and a port for his Grand Army, intending to conquer England, just across the English Channel and clearly visible on clear days from the Opal Coast.

The supervised beach is superb, vast and sandy with a rocky slipway for boats where children fish for shrimp. But it’s not a seasonal-only seaside town, it’s residential so with few exceptions, most places are open year round. The promenade of Wimereux is a wonderful place to well… promenade!

There are sports activities, sailing, and horse riding, plus a great golf course on top of the cliffs. The town has a varied and cultural programme including a summer festival dedicated to mussels which breed in proliferation along this coast line. There is a weekly market which triples in size in the summer months.

The town remains resolutely old-style French. There are no big chain stores or coffee shops. There are boutiques and quirky stores, cafés and bars, bread and cake shops. Along the sea front there are larger restaurants. In a prime spot overlooking the sea you’ll find the Art Deco style Hotel Atlantic. It has a laid back style which belies its Michelin-star status. Expect the freshest fish and gourmet dishes from the first floor starred restaurant. On the found floor is a non-starred bistro.

Canadian John McCrae is buried in Wimereux where he died in 1918. The author of the haunting poem “In Flanders Field” is honoured on 11 November each year when children in local schools light candles in his memory and read his poem out loud.

Wimereux is a relaxing and an ideal get-away-from-it-all seaside town, with a lot of style and a great base to explore the wider area.

More on the Opal Coast area

Nausicaa, Boulogne-sur-Mer, one of the Europe’s largest and best aquariums

Guide to Boulogne-sur-Mer 

Le Touquet Paris-Plage

Fabulous French seaside towns on the Opal Coast

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Vieux Lille, the old town of Lille, is a place of fanciful Flemish facades. Where bars, bistros, boutiques and shops line the cobbled streets which wind their way labyrinth-like around the central Place du Général de Gaulle, known as the grand’Place.

Outdoor cafés abound in the ancient city centre, art of all kinds adorns the streets and you could visit a different museum in and around Lille every day for two weeks and still not see them all.

The former capital of culture is lively, vivacious and at the same time cultured and urbane. Lille has undergone a metamorphosis from a once industrial hub through a rather run down stage to emerge as a top city break destination and one of the most fascinating cities in Europe…

Lille – A feast for all the senses

Here’s where to indulge in a feast for the senses. Here are some of the best cultural sites and restaurants that are close by – feed your soul, and your stomach!

Culture: Palais des Beaux Arts

The Palais des Beaux Arts lives up to its name, it really is a grand palace and one of the largest museums in France. It has the second biggest collection of fine arts outside of Paris with exhibits from antiquity to contemporary, including all the greats from Rubens, Goya and Monet to Van Gogh, Picasso and Chagall. Head to the basement to discover a unique collection of ancient relief maps, fourteen 17th century exact replica miniature models of towns such as Ypres in Belgium (it was used as a blueprint for rebuilding Ypres after WWII) and Lille. They were once used by Louis XIV and his famous martial engineer Vauban to plan military tactics. There are regular, world class temporary exhibitions, and innovative touch screens (including gigapixel) help visitors to explore the artworks.

Eat: Au Moulin d’Or

Au Moulin d’Or is very close by, in the centre of Old Lille in a converted lingerie store. A listed monument, this restaurant featured in Dany Boon’s “Bienvenue Chez les Ch’tis”, France’s biggest grossing film of all time. It’s been renovated to a fabulous standard. Glittering chandeliers and a gorgeous central staircase, plus it regularly showcases local artists. Upstairs or downstairs, there’s a great atmosphere and a classic brasserie menu – delicious. 31-33 Place du Théâtre

Culture: Musée de l’Hospice de la Comtesse

The Museum of the Hospice de la Comtesse is steeped in history. It was founded in 1236 by Jeanne, Countess of Flanders to care for the poor and sick. Look out for the wonderful painting in the baroque chapel of Jeanne and her sister Marguerite giving money to the hospice’s nuns. The oldest part of the building dates to the 1400’s. It includes magnificently furnished rooms depicting Flemish life from the 15th to the 17th centuries. My favourites were an enchanting 17th century kitchen with gorgeous blue and white Delft-like tiles and a linen room with a perfectly preserved 17th century press. There’s a fascinating collection of paintings and antiques and regular exhibitions dedicated to the history of Lille. It’s a charming museum with an authentic atmosphere – a must-see.

Eat: Barbue d’Anvers

A short walk away, tucked away down an alley behind a pretty courtyard in a beautiful 16th century Flemish building, lies a local legend. Here they serve regional specialities such as rich and robust carbonnade flamande – a beef stew made with beer and brown sugar. And the unpronounceable potjevleesch, a dish of three cold meats (traditionally rabbit, chicken and veal) in aspic. Plus waterzooi, a type of chicken soup. The dining room is charming and vintage, with candles, books and knick-knacks galore. The locals adore this quirky restaurant with a warm ambiance. 1 bis Rue St Etienne 59800 Lille; lebarbuedanvers.fr

Culture: Gare Saint Sauveur

One of the things I love about Lille is the way abandoned but spectacular buildings are converted into cultural venues. Gare Saint Sauveur, a former freight station built in 1861, is now an inspirational space where regular events, art exhibitions and performances are hosted. It houses a cinema, bar and restaurant, gardens and a summer pop up bar. The huge warehouses are perfect for showcasing art. I loved how the railway tracks were still in situ, a reminder of the past fixed in the present. It’s also one of the main Lille3000 venues, the legendary tri-annual, 9-month long art festival which takes place in the streets and public buildings of Lille city and surrounding districts.

Eat: Bistrot de Saint So

Bistrot de Saint So is part of the Gare Saint-Sauveur complex and is a great way to mix art and food. When you’ve finished feasting on the art in the former station, head to the very chic restaurant and enjoy some seriously good dishes. This place is super popular with the locals for lunch (Wednesday – Sunday) so make sure you book in advance on their Facebook page. Enjoy dining on the fabulous large terrace watched over by a giant baby with a tail, or in the chic interior. I’m not sure the food makes your “hair sparkle” as they claim (with a big smile) but with fantastically tasty salads and a seasonal menu, I think they might just be right! It’s also open Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights for a trendy night of music with DJs. There are also live performances. And seriously funky cocktails. facebook.com/bistrotdestso

Culture: Vielle Bourse

Head to la Vielle Bourse, the former  stock exchange, built in 1623. The courtyard hosts a second-hand book market (Tues-Sun, afternoons) on stalls under a vaulted walkway, alongside walls lined with fabulous carved friezes and sculptures. If you’re there on a Sunday night in the summer, join in the tango dancing under the stars.

Eat: L’Atelier des Chefs

Cook your own lunch or dinner with a chef tutor. At L’Atelier des Chefs Lille, you’ll improve your skills as you create a classic dish from scratch in just 30 minutes. You then get to enjoy eating your masterpiece at this fun cookery school. Great for individuals, couples and friends. Lunch time cooking course €17 Euros; gourmet dinner course lesson (one hour) where you’ll make a main course and dessert €38. Booking in advance is essential.

Culture: Tri Postal

Located in the former postal sorting office, it’s neither a museum or art centre but a place of art and life say the staff. Temporary exhibitions, performances and workshops are held in this dynamic and exciting cultural venue.

Eat: Coke

Coke restaurant in the ex-offices of the old Mining Company of Lens, hence the name. It’s a majestic building designed by architect Louis-Marie Cordonnier. Upstairs is an elegant, chandeliered dining room. Down-stairs is modern and arty and a retractable glass roof makes it great for sunny days. Bold, playful and clever food is on the menu from a talented team working in a glass-fronted kitchen. It’s also a great venue for an aperitif with a swanky cocktail bar and music on Friday nights.

Culture: La Piscine & Street art Roubaix

A short tram or metro ride from Lille, La Piscine, Roubaix’s art-deco swimming pool turned museum with a world-class collection, is one of the most popular museums in France. Read more about it here.

Roubaix has street art superstar status with an annual urban art festival (#XU), fabulous murals and two amazing studios dedicated to urban culture. Atelier RemyCo has 15 artists in residence including some well-known names (Mr. Voul and Freaks the Fab). Meanwhile Atelier Jouret hosts 40 artists: painters, sculptors, fashion designers and more. On the first Sunday of each month, you can visit the workshops, meet the artists and buy something unique from these hotshots of urban art. Read more about Roubaix and it’s extraordinary artists.

Eat: Meert at La Piscine

Meert is famous for its jewel-like pastries and the most moreish waffles ever made. They’ve been making sweet things since 1761 and their famous shop in Lille is like stepping back in time. They also have a beautiful art deco tearoom and restaurant with a gorgeous terrace garden (perfect for sunny day lunches) at La Piscine museum in Roubaix. The menu reflects the world class exhibitions  and really adds a little je ne sais quoi to your visit. The chef works with curators to design unique menus. There are exhibition-theme influenced dishes (and there’s also a seasonal, classic French menu). Leave room for one of their famous sweet waffles. You’ll be in good company, they were created for Belgian King Leopold 1!

Culture: MUBA Eugène Leroy

In the district of Tourcoing on the outskirts of Lille, the Museum of Beaux Arts has an excellent and substantial permanent collection from the 17th-20th century.

Eat: Le Paradoxe

Le Paradoxe is almost next to the museum. It’s a seriously funky restaurant located in the former Hospice which dates back to the 13th century. 3 Rue d’Havre, Tourcoing.

Find out more things to do on the Lille Tourist Office website

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The far north of France, known as Hauts de France comprising the departments Picardy, Pas-de-Calais and Nord is the perfect road trip destination. A land of castles, seaside resorts, forests and lakes. There are ancient towns and cities, gorgeous countryside and picturesque villages and even Champagne vineyards! If you’re after a road trip that takes you to the heart of authentic France.  Where you’ll enjoy delicious food, meet friendly folk and discover a historic land that’s full of surprises. Then hit the road and explore this unexpected and extraordinary region…

Unspoiled, uncrowded, rural tourism at it’s best.

Road Trip Pas de Calais, northern France

Our journey began on P&O Ferries from Dover to Calais on an early morning sailing. Turning left out of the port we headed for the D940 Opal Coast route, which I call the Route 66 of the north of France. It passes through a stream of small fishing towns, seaside resorts and some of the most beautiful scenery in France.

There are miles and miles of unspoiled and endless sandy beaches. There are huge dunes and pine forests; dramatic clifftop walks offer dizzying views across the Channel to the White Cliffs of Dover – clearly visible on a cloudless day. Some parts of the coast remind me of the Giant’s Causeway in Ireland. Massive boulders seem to spill out of the sea and up to the road. Fishermen sit silent and patient along the water’s edge with rods and nets. Out to sea you can see traditional wooden fishing boats bobbing on the calm water.

Secluded Bays and picnic dreams

The sky was blue, the English Channel was the colour of the Mediterranean Sea, a soft sort of turquoise. The air was scented with apples from orchards lining the country roads as we drifted off the main coastal route and into the beautiful countryside to hunt down a patisserie. Nothing says France more than a baguette with a chunk of cheese followed by a jewel like cake and a glass of chilled wine. We sat on a blanket overlooking the English Channel, rabbits hopping around us, birds swooping above. A moment of pure pleasure.

We found secret, secluded bays where seals frolicked. There are monuments and museums, and the remains of the Atlantic Wall built as protection against allied invasion during World War II.

Stop en route to discover secrets and surprises

It doesn’t take more than 45 minutes from Calais to Boulogne-sur-Mer. But, it’s far better to spend the entire day on this section of the road. Stop to enjoy a home-cooked lunch in a friendly, welcoming café and buy fish fresh from the fishermen who sell direct from their front rooms and garages in villages like Audresselles. Wander on the beach, admire the ancient fort at Ambleteuse (above) and the Belle Epoque villas at Wimereux.

This is a part of France that’s hardly known outside of the region despite being captured on canvas by J M Turner who loved the ”opal” quality of light, and Charles Dickens singing the praises of the area and moving his family there.

Boulogne-sur-Mer

Boulogne-sur-Mer deserves a day of discovery. Head to the old town, so pretty it looks like a film set. Don’t miss the incredible decorated crypt of the Basillica Notre-Dame, the rue du Lille, lined with quirky boutiques and restaurants.

The 13th century Chateau Museum includes an Egyptian collection donated by renowned Egyptologist François Auguste Ferdinand Mariette, born in the town and the founder of the Cairo Museum of Egyptology. Nausicaa, the largest sea aquarium in Europe and heaps more will definitely fill a day right up…

From Boulogne, the D940 runs on through Neufchatel-Hardelot with its neo-Shakespearian Theatre and Castle with a cultural centre dedicated to Entente-Cordiale and glorious Hardelot beach. And on through charming Etaples, once a fishing port, neighbour to the swanky jet set seaside resort of Le Touquet-Paris-Plage, and several lovely seaside towns before crossing the border into Picardy…

Road Trip Picardy, Northern France

Marquenterre nature reserve

Close to the border at Saint-Quentin-en-Tourmont, we followed the signs for Parc Marquenterre. I’m not a twitcher, but I love animals and this nature reserve on the Bay of the Somme has a reputation for being really special.

A dusty track ended in a huge car park where a surprisingly smart and large restaurant and bar tempted us in. Here in what feels like the middle of nowhere, they serve delicious dishes with heirloom vegetables, the freshest local fish and superb desserts, fitting fuel for explorers. 200 hectares of land covered in marshes, peppered with lakes and ponds, dunes and reed beds are an absolute magnet for birds of all types. From a hide, I spied on storks and herons. Birds tweeted above and around us. The air is fresh and unpolluted, you feel as if you have the whole area to yourself. Marquenterre is mesmerising, memorable and magical.

Saint-Valery-sur-Somme, steam trains and cobbled streets

From here it’s a short ride to the town of Saint-Valery-sur-Somme. This ancient and extremely photogenic little town on the Somme Estuary has absolutely oodles of charm. It’s easy to spend an entire day here.

Stroll the cobbled streets. Wander along the harbour and the long esplanade to ogle the mansion houses. And discover the colourful sailors district. You’ll know exactly what lured the artist Degas and writers Victor Hugo and Jules Verne to holiday here. Long before them, Joan of Arc was held captive here. The dungeon where she is said to have been imprisoned is still there. It’s a tiny stone tower and you can’t help but think how the poor girl must have felt cooped up in her claustrophobic prison.

William the Conqueror was here too, stopping off to collect soldiers before making history and conquering England in 1066. Standing on the ramparts looking out to sea in the medieval town I wondered if he too had stood there. Wondering, dreaming, daring to hope that his ambitious plans to quell his dastardly enemy across the water might come true. All that thinking makes you hungry. Luckily this little town is teeming with cafés, bistros and restaurants.

The stream train is an irresistible lure. It takes you, on authentic wooden seats, round the Bay of the Somme, classified as one of the most beautiful bays in the world. We spotted wild pigs, deer and all manner of birds en route. You can take a boat ride out on the bay where the largest colony of seals in France live. Join a walking or bike tour (you can rent bikes in the town), or simply sit back and enjoy the ambiance. Watching the sun set over the bay, is one of those unforgettably beautiful moments in life…

Gorgeous Gerberoy

Take in the stunning medieval village of Gerberoy. Officially classified as a Plus Beaux Village, it has oodles of charm. Read about Gerberoy here: What to see and do in Gerberoy

Amiens Gothic Cathedral and astonishing floating gardens

The D940 runs all the way to Le Tréport in Normandy where the road then becomes the D925. It then runs around the coast through Dieppe before reverting to its original number to reach Le Havre. But stay in the Hauts de France region and head to the city of Amiens where you’ll discover Les Hortillonnages, one of the best kept secrets of France. These watery arteries give Amiens a unique atmosphere. You really have a feeling that you are in the most beautiful countryside – right in the centre of a busy metropolis.

The hortillonnages are a major heritage site. Marshland gardens, cultivated for centuries, created on man-made islands and on the land which lines the waterways. In fact the gardens are so old that no one knows when they began. But, legend has it that when the city’s Cathedral was built in the 13th century, it was on a field of artichokes managed by the gardeners of the hortillonnages.

All tours are by eco-friendly electric boats which glide silently across the tranquil waters. Steering the boat round islands, stopping off at jetties to look at artworks dotted around, enjoying a picnic on an island – it really brings out your inner happy. The only disturbance was the cooing and calling of birds and the croaking of frogs. You’d hardly even know you’re in a city if it wasn’t for the fact that you can see the spire of the great Gothic cathedral in the distance.

Chateau de Chantilly

At the stunning Chateau de Chantilly treating yourself to some Chantilly cream is de rigeur! Fling the diet plans out of the window and dig straight in. In the gorgeous gardens of this fairy tale castle is a hamlet that was allegedly the inspiration for Marie-Antoinette’s hamlet at Versailles. Pretty little half-timbered buildings and sweet bridges over a bubbling stream. The restaurant serves great lunches including strawberries and Chantilly cream. It was whipped at our table, right in front of our eyes. I confess, my eyes were not bigger than my belly. I has no trouble getting through a very large dollop of utterly seductive cream.

Read more about Chantilly castle and its amazing stables here.

Chateau Thierry | Champagne Vineyards – in Picardy

Take a detour to the area of Chateau Thierry on the Champagne border. You might be amazed to discover that more than 10% of all the Champagne made, is actually produced from vines in this part of Picardy! I have to tell you, if you’re a fan of the fizz like me, it’ll make you effervescent with happiness to go here. You can enjoy a fabulous tasting at several Champagne Houses.

Thiepval Memorial

Thiepval Memorial is one of the most emotional memorials I’ve been to. Not just because of the 72,000 names etched into the white walls, or the row upon row of crosses.

The guides who work here offer free tours and they share anecdotes and stories of those whose names are forever remembered. As the guide told me about a man whose bravery at trying to save the lives of his comrades ended in his own death, I looked up on the walls. The names are familiar to us all, Davis, Smith, Roberts – and Cedric Dickens, great-grandson of Charles Dickens who’d loved the north of France so much. The absolute tragedy of the sacrifices made, the terrible losses, completely overwhelmed me. I burst into tears and thought how very grateful I am for all that I have.

Road Trip Nord, Northern France

Lille – historic and stunning

Lille, the capital of Hauts-de-France has the most beautiful old town. Wander it’s cobbled streets under colourful bunting, past boulangeries and cake shops where people wait patiently in queues – a small price to pay for the lushest of dishes. Dine at an authentic estaminet, the Flemish word for an inn. Visit a microbrewery. There are museums and art galleries  galore. You’ll fall under the spell of this vibrant city that’s crammed with museums and cultural highlights and full of friendly folk, so that you can hardly bear to leave. There’s just so much to do: 10 things to do in Lille

And it’s a short journey to the Roubaix district. Here you’ll find the world class La Piscine museum and a whole load more art and culture. And not much further to Lens where you’ll find a branch of the Paris Louvre, the world’s most visited museum. The Lens Louvre is an extraordinary museum and a must-see for all lovers of art.

Saint Omer

Saint Omer is about half an hour from Calais which makes it a great last stop on your way home to shop for supplies. But en route from Lens, make a stop at Bethune and discover the pretty town and Chef Marc Meurin’s fabulous hotel and Michelin starred restaurant. The sweet-toothed chef also has a sweet shop that would make Willy Wonka do cartwheels. Chef Meurin also offers cooking lessons. Even I, “Flop Chef”, learned how to create something marvellous! And he has a great, informal restaurant called Le Jardin d’Alice which the locals love.

Back to Saint Omer. It’s a quintessential French market town that has a massive historic footprint. Thomas a Becket AKA Saint Thomas Becket took refuge from Henry II of England there in 1165. Centuries later, three of America’s Founding Fathers, Daniel, Charles and John Carroll, studied at the Jesuit Chapel.

Markets, Shakespeare and Flemish cafes

If you can, be there for the Saturday morning market. A riot of colour and scents and sounds fill the cobbled square in front of the neo-classic town hall. Stalls are piled high with produce, vegetables grown on the local marshes and farms or by green-fingered locals. This is one of the most authentic and friendly markets I’ve ever been to. And when you’re done, pop to the town library. It looks ordinary from outside, however – head to the old part of the building where books go back to the 7th century. A priceless First Folio of Shakespeare’s plays was recently discovered on its heaving shelves! And stop to enjoy a local beer and Flemish dish at any number of cafés and watch the world go by and plan your return to this unforgettable part of France.

Once is never enough.

See my trip by video:

This region is a land of contrast, sea and country, history and culture, arts and crafts and gastronomy. Whether you stay for a weekend or a week, there’s so much to discover that one visit will never satisfy you…

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Lens in the Nord department, a few kilometres south east of Bethune and just to the north of Arras was for three centuries a major production area for the coal mining industry. When production ceased in the late 20^th century, Lens for a while, had an air of dejection. Today, that’s certainly completely changed, however, sections of the coal mining industry have been preserved for posterity serving as educational and cultural reminders of the once great industry that contributed so much to the French economy.

UNESCO listed slagheaps

Any visitor to Lens won’t fail to spot the vast slag waste heaps that dominate the regional landscape. There are 51 of them. The sight is quite spectacular and forms part of a new artistic culture that has brought regeneration to the area. They’ve even achieved UNESCO world heritage status. Unesco defines the region as an “organically evolved” cultural landscape, part of a list of “distinct geographical areas or properties uniquely representing the combined work of nature and of man”.

The coal slag piles are constantly monitored by specialist engineers. They are quite safe and accessible for climbing. I walked right to the top of one and admired the breath-taking views over the surrounding countryside from the summit. It was a clear day and the Belgium coast could be seen in the distance. The man-made terrain has a rough and grainy substance that is easy to walk on. Entrance is free and takes around an hour and half for the climb and return.

There are other reminders of the days of the mines. Mining pits, workers cottages and mining villages, an original cast iron lift shaft. They form a powerful component and symbol of what has now been transformed into an imposing, landscaped art form. And a tourist attraction.

The slag heaps are becoming transformed by vegetation, trees and plants, even vines. One has become a dry ski slope.

You don’t have to take a guided tour but they are offered at Base 11/19 de Loos-en-Gohelle.

Lens Louvre Museum

Lens is also the base for an annex of the prestigious Louvre museum in Paris. The glass and aluminium art gallery, very different from the Paris museum, is a vast and imposing sight. It stands in grounds landscaped to represent the old coal mining fields as an artistic statement. The ‘Louvre-Lens’ museum displays artworks from its parent in Paris on a regular exchange basis. Entrance to the museum is free. Read more about: Lens-Louvre Museum

Lens town and around

Pop into the town for something to eat and drink, there are plenty of friendly cafés. And the art deco train station is well worth a look. Built to resemble a steam train, it is a listed National Heritage Site.

Lens is close to many sites including Vimy Ridge, the Ring of Memory and Notre Dame de Lorette also known as Ablain St.-Nazaire French Military Cemetery.

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In the stunning countryside of the Seven Valleys, at the foot of the medieval hilltop town of Montreuil-sur-Mer in Pas de Calais, northern France, lies a rather large secret.

A long, tree lined drive surrounded by fields and forests, makes for an impressive entrance to a grand arched doorway. Step through and you’ll enter a different world. One which has its feet firmly in the past.

I’d spotted this monumental building from the ramparts of nearby Montreuil-sur-Mer’s citadel. It’s hard to miss the grey stone belfries reaching to the sky and row upon row of ancient buildings which stand out amongst the forests and fields of the lush countryside. La Chartreuse de Neuville, or the Charterhouse, as it’s called in English, is nothing short of astonishing.

History of the Charterhouse

In 1084, a group of monks who wanted to follow the harsh, contemplative lives of early Christian hermits formed a small community in the Chartreuse Mountains, near Grenoble, southeast France. They led silent, meditative lives and owned no possessions. From this beginning grew a new monastic order that spread rapidly across Europe. The monks became known as Carthusians and their priories as charterhouses.

History of La Chartreuse de Neuville

Charterhouses were established all over Europe. They were all built to a formal specification and for the same purpose says my guide Patrick Alindre at La Chartreuse de Neuville. Around a Cour d’honneur lived the Brothers, monks who worked in the monastery and supported the Fathers. Behind this were the apartments of the Fathers. Each lived alone and in silence. The Charterhouses were huge “because only then could silence be guaranteed and that was essential to the role of the Fathers” says Patrick as our footsteps echo around the enormous cloisters.

The original charterhouse was built in 1324, commissioned by the powerful Count of Boulogne in the shadow of Montreuil-sur-Mer which was a pilgrimage destination, as well as a prosperous port town. In August 1561, Mary Queen of Scots stopped off at Montreuil-sur-Mer on her way to Scotland from France and was given a gift of two peacocks from the Charterhouse of Neuville.

After the French Revolution when the state seized church property, the monks left and the building fell into disrepair. It was sold to a private buyer who dismantled it and sold off the material which was used in local buildings. The Charterhouse was bought back by the state in 1870 and restored by renowned architect Clovis Normand, born in nearby Hesdin and a pupil of Violet le Duc, recreator of Notre Dame Paris. He also designed St Hugh’s Charterhouse in Parkminster, England which is twinned with La Chartreuse de Neuville.

Life in La Chartreuse

The two communities of La Chartreuse de Neuville consisted of 24 Fathers and 24 Brothers who grew vegetables and fruit and supported the Fathers. They were all vegetarian.

Each father lived alone in an apartment called a cell, though it was quite substantial. They lived in silence and without company. Their food was passed through a guichet, a cupboard in the wall with two doors. A Brother would open the outer door, put the food in the cupboard and close the door. Then the Father would open his door to take the food. It was the same with any supplies including firewood. The Fathers were forbidden from doing work other than spiritual, except for cutting firewood. Each apartment was exactly the same, on two levels and with a small enclosed garden where they could grow flowers if they wished.

The ground floor level was considered the material world – connected to the world of man. There was a short corridor known as a promenoir where a Father could walk for exercise. Upstairs they entered the Ava Maria room and left behind the world of the non-spiritual. Here they would pray for hours on end. They also had a wood cutting area, a bedroom and prayer area, a table and chair.

The fathers were allowed to do spiritual things, reading, writing, painting and sculpting but nothing they produced ever had their signature. They had no personal possessions, no ego and no vanity. There were no distractions and their roles were viewed as collective. They prayed. A lot.

A life of prayer and solitude

The Fathers were felt to experience a spiritual consciousness by withdrawing from the world which enabled them to pray for mankind.

I expected to feel claustrophobic and shut in when I stood in the apartment of a Father. But instead, it felt surprisingly open, tranquil and calm. In the small garden I could feel the rays of the sun and hear the birds. Other than that it was silent as it had been for centuries.

Colourful patterns fell across the cloisters from the stained glass windows. There are several cloisters, arched and columned and glorious.

The Fathers met five times a day for prayer in the Great Chapel. And on Sunday afternoons when they dined together – always in silence. On Mondays they were allowed to take a walk outside the Charterhouse and speak if necessary and once a week they would gather in the Chapter Room and speak – but only if they had something relevant to say. The French saying “l’avoir l’avoir a chapitre” – having a voice in the chapter, which means to have influence, originated from this.

They were allowed to meet up with their family for just two hours a year. No part of the Charterhouse was accessible to the public but religious visitors were allowed.

Every Charterhouse followed the same rules and routines.

What to see at La Chartreuse de Neuville

In 1901 the Loi of Association separated the church and state in France, and the monastery finally met its end. It became a sanatorium, orphanage and asylum. In WWI the French Government turned it over to refugees fleeing Belgium. 5000 people passed through, 600 died there and are buried in the grounds.

La Chartreuse de Neuville has dozens of cloisters, chapels, a library and other rooms. It was once the home of  the printing press for all the Charterhouses of Europe 1800s. But the equipment was transferred to St Hugh’s Charterhouse (there are plans to have it returned).

A huge central courtyard around which are cloisters is dominated by two belfries – one for God and one for man with bells ringing on the hour. The prior of the community was elected every two years from the Fathers and lived in a bigger house overlooking the central courtyard.

When they died their bodies were laid to rest in the chapel of death. You can spot by the carved skull over the top of the door. They were buried in a cloth, with no marker, nothing remained of them with their purpose fulfilled – to pray for mankind and to have no ego.

Nowadays you can visit and see the beautiful gardens overlooking the Canche Valley but the guided tour (in French but English speakers are given a paper guide to help them) is essential to really appreciate this incredible building.

Exhibitions are held in the refractory and regular events take place year round including a Blues Festival in the summer, electro nights and concerts.

It’s a fascinating place with a real feeling of spirituality…

lachartreusedeneuville.org

What to see close by

Le Touquet the “Monaco” of northern France, swish, swanky and elegant seaside resort
Where to take a foodie break in Pas de Calais
Guide to Boulogne-sur-Mer, the port city has an incredible historic walled inner city
Montreuil-sur-Mer, the little town which inspired Victor Hugo to write Les Miserables

Janine Marsh is the author of  several internationally best-selling books about France. Her latest book How to be French – a celebration of the French lifestyle and art de vivre, is out now – a look at the French way of life.

Want more France?

Discover more fabulous destinations in France with our free magazine The Good Life France

Love France? Have a listen to our podcast – everything you want to know about France and more!

All rights reserved. This article may not be published, broadcast, rewritten (including translated) or redistributed without written permission.

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Right in the centre of the old town of Lille in northern France, the Musée de l’Hospice Comtesse is a gem of a museum. From its entrance in cobbled rue de la Monnaie, you have no idea what lies behind those grand wooden doors. Set into a long wall peppered with arched windows and doorways, now mostly boutiques and gourmet food shops, the museum entrance opens up to reveal a series of buildings and courtyards and a truly fascinating visit.

History of the Hospice de la Comtesse

The former hospital was founded in 1237, in the oldest part of Lille. It was commissioned by Jeanne, Countess of Flanders. A medieval hospital to care for the sick and the poor, created within her own palace walls. It was also a hotel for pilgrims en route to Rome and Compostela.

More than 500 years of extension and adaptation followed. It has created a mixture of architectural styles dating mostly to the 15^th– 17^th centuries. The 15^th century former sick room, where nuns would rent out shop space there to help pay for patient care, is glorious.

A hospital until the French Revolution, the Hospice de la Comtesse then became an orphanage and care home for the elderly. It has been a museum of art and history since the 1960s.

What to see at the Musée de l’Hospice Comtesse

The museum focuses mainly on local history. Though, every few years when the incredible Lille 3000 art event is held, extra space is given to temporary exhibitions.

In the former 15^th century sick room, once a resting room for the sick, the poor and pilgrims, the vaulted ceiling was painted by a former orphan in the 17^th century. A magnificent painting shows Jean of Flandres and her sister Margeurite surrounded by praying nuns and saints. They clearly believed they would go to heaven for their good works.

There is a beautiful 17^th century kitchen with a vast fireplace. It’s worth visiting on its own merits for any lover of blue and white tiles, some Delft, others ancient copies. Rooms are furnished in Flemish style of the 17^th and 18^th centuries. There are many paintings including some of children. They were donated by their parents in thanks after being nursed by the nuns, reflecting a growing interest in the 17^th century for the care of children. An infirmary, pharmacy and linen room with a 17^th century press are fascinating.

The collections of the Musée de l’Hospice Comtesse

Upstairs, in the former nuns’ dormitory, there are paintings including some by Louis and Francois Watteau. You’ll also discover sculptures, works of art and everyday life which illustrate the history of the city until the Revolution.

It’s a fascinating little museum and an easy way to spend an hour to an hour and a half and get to know more about Lille’s long history.

Details: pba.lille.fr

More on Lille

Ten things to do in Lille
Palais des Beaux Arts, Lille, an extraordinary treasure trove
10 brilliant places to eat and drink at in Lille
The stunning second hand book market in Lille

Lille Tourist Office; UK.France.fr

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