Visit one of the most beautiful gardens of France – Latour-Marliac is a horticultural gem in South-West France that inspired Claude Monet’s famous waterlily lake.

Le Temple-sur-Lot in the Lot-et-Garonne department (between Bordeaux and Toulouse) is named after a still-impressive medieval Commandery of the Knights Templar. Since the mid 19^th century, however, the village has been the temple of something else entirely – waterlilies and lotuses.

A temple of watery delight

Joseph Bory Latour-Marliac (1830-1911) studied law in Paris but never liked it much, and returning to his native Granges-sur-Lot to learn his horticulturalist father’s art. In 1850 he struck out on his own with the purchase of 10 acres in Le Temple-sur-Lot. It came with a stream, two wells and 14 springs. Bamboo had become fashionable in mid 19^th century gardening and Joseph’s dream was to create Europe’s greatest bamboo collection.

From bamboo to waterlilies

Even though it went well – Joseph is credited with introducing two new varieties – there was too much competition in the bamboo business, so he began to experiment with waterlilies at a time when they were all but impossible to purchase. At that time the only variety that survived outdoors in Europe was the white Nymphaea Alba.

Joseph was to change all that. Through some kind of mysterious green thumbed alchemy, he hybridized N. Alba with yellow N. Mexicana to create the very first hardy waterlily that wasn’t white.

In 1875, he re-founded the nursery, specifically dedicated to aquatic plants – waterlilies and lotuses. Working his magic on tropical and semi-tropical specimens from North America, Joseph would go on to create hardy waterlilies in every shade from pale yellow and pink, to ruby red and copper.

In 1889, he sent 17 of his most beautiful specimens to Paris to compete in the Exposition Universelle. One case was lost on the train and had to be replaced. When it was discovered over a month later and sent back to the nursery, Joseph expected to find all the plants had died – instead they were still thriving. Waterlilies may look delicate, but they are as tough as weeds.

The World’s Fair that changed Paris and art history

It has been noted that only two major things have survived from the 1889 Paris Exposition Universelle: the Eiffel Tower and Latour-Marliac’s waterlilies. Displayed in water gardens outside the Trocadèro, they took first prize in the flower competition.

It was pure serendipity that Claude Monet was exhibiting in the Pavillon des Artistes next door to the Trocadèro. He was totally beguiled by the waterlilies. A year later he bought the house he’d been renting for seven years in Normandy (after spotting it from a train that ran along the bottom of the garden). In 1893 he bought land on the other side of the tracks to create a water garden. “I love water, but I also love flowers. That’s why, once the pond was filled, I thought about adorning it with plants. I got a catalogue and simply chose at random.”

Monet ordered as many lotuses as waterlilies, but sadly they failed to thrive. Otherwise his sublime Nymphéas – jewel of the Orangerie in Paris – might look very different, along with more than 250 other waterlily paintings that now feature in museums around the world.

The small museum at Latour-Marliac displays some of Monet’s handwritten orders. Other clients included the king of Bulgaria, the Vatican and writer Leo Tolstoy, who ordered waterlilies for the ponds at his home, Yasnaya Polyana in Russia. Much of the nursery’s business came from Britain, led by the influential garden designer Gertrude Jekyll (whose name was borrowed by her friend Robert Louis Stevenson in his story about Mr Hyde).

Latour-Marliac today

After Joseph’s death, family members ran the nursery until 1991, when Ray and Barbara Davies of Stapeley Water Gardens in England took over and restored the gardens. Both have lilies named after them. Their efforts were rewarded in 2004 when Latour-Marliac was designated a Jardin Remarquable. Since 2007, the owner has been American Robert Sheldon.

The gardens are open from 15 April through 15 October, but are at their most fragrant, full blooming finest, in summer. Highlights include Joseph’s elliptical pools, today containing the French National Waterlily Collection, lined hypnotically with antique terracotta pots where cuttings were once grown before they were sold.

Other waterlilies and lotuses grow in the rectangular pools (from the air it looks like a set of watercolours) where frogs hop and plop, amid the dragonflies and butterflies. Twenty kinds of bamboo grow by the pretty pond, with its waterfall and a Japanese bridge – a nod to Monet’s Giverny.

The garden’s excellent Café Marliacea serves lunch, and dinner on Sunday evenings in summer, when the nocturnal tropical waterlilies in the greenhouse show their stuff, including the Amazonian Victoria, with its 1.5m diameter pie-pan leaves.

If you’re feeling Monet-ish, Latour-Marliac’s excellent website tells how to create your own water feature. Study it before you arrive, because it’s all too easy to be overwhelmed by the magnificent lilies!

Website: latour-marliac.com

Take a half day tour: with French Country Adventures frenchcountryadventures.com

For more Bamboo and Waterlilies…

From Le-Temple-sur-Lot it’s just over an hour’s drive to two other Jardins Remarquables in the Dordogne: the exotic bamboo Jardin de Planbuisson (planbuilsson.com) in Buisson de Cadouin  and the Jardins d’Eau (jardinsdeau.com) in Carsac-Aillac home to Europe’s only waterlily labyrinth.

Dana Facaros has lived in France for over 30 years. She is the creator of French Food Decoder app: everything you want to know about French food, and co-author of the Bradt guide to Gascony & the Pyrenees and many guide books to France.

Want more France?

Discover more fabulous destinations in France with our free magazine The Good Life France

Love France? Have a listen to our podcast – everything you want to know about France and more!

All rights reserved. This article may not be published, broadcast, rewritten (including translated) or redistributed without written permission.

The post One of the most beautiful gardens of France – Latour-Marliac appeared first on The Good Life France.

What to see and do in Sarlat-la-Canéda in Dordogne, plus the the best things to see and do in the area around.

The old town of Sarlat-la-Canéda, in the heart of the Périgord Noir in Southeast Dordogne, dates to Gallo-Roman times at least. But it underwent a period of growth during the Middle Ages, developing around the Cathedral Saint-Sacerdos, which is mentioned in records as early as the year 1081. Today, Sarlat is one of the most beautiful preserved medieval complexes in Europe with an exceptional heritage and wealth of architectural wonders.

The best way to explore the town is on foot. The 13^th century Manoir de Gisson with its elegant tower, mullioned windows, and decorative period furnishings is a good starting point. Inside you’ll discover how the bourgeoisie lived. Next, head to the Place du Marché aux Oies, where a traditional goose market used to be held, remembered in the emblematic bronze sculpture of three life-sized geese. Stroll Sarlat’s charming, cobbled streets, past inner courtyards and through picturesque squares to the Lanterne des Morts, an unusual bullet-shaped stone structure. And don’t miss the monumental Cathédrale Saint-Sacerdos, redeveloped over the centuries combining Roman and Gothic styles. It is now a listed monument and still a working church.

As a regional gastronomic hub, Sarlat’s twice weekly markets (Wednesday and Saturday mornings) have served shoppers since the Middle Ages. Soak up the aromas of the product filled stalls where local seasonal delicacies like strawberries, walnuts and truffles are abundant. Visit the covered market in the former 12^th century Church of Sante-Marie for yet more delicious produce.

The streets are lined with fantastic restaurants, trendy bistros, traditional cafés and farmhouse inns. You will be spoiled for choice when it comes to amazing food and mouth-watering specialities such as foie gras, duck, goose and truffle. I couldn’t resist the daily lunch menu and authentic cuisine at La Couleuvrine restaurant which has  been in the same family for three generations.

What to see near Sarlat

Lascaux IV Cave

30 minutes north of Sarlat in Montignac in the Vézère Valley, lies the Lascaux IV decorated cave. Entering feels like going back to prehistoric times – the paintings are breath-taking. The cave is a complete replica of a nearby original cave which was discovered in 1940 but is now closed for its protection. Lascaux IV showcases the complexity of the painted art of our ancestors who used pigments of powder from crushed stones mixed with water to create the spectacular paintings of animals. Enjoy a guided tour of the cave, the interactive digital exhibition and museum to learn how the complex multicoloured frescoes evolved. Take a break and enjoy delicious traditional cuisine at La Parenthèse, a stone’s throw from the cave.

Marqueyssac Gardens

Three centuries of gardening passion have made the Marqueyssac Gardens one of the most spectacular sites in Perigord Noir. There are more than 150,000 hand-pruned boxwoods and 6km of trails offering spectacular viewpoints. A superb early 19^th Century stone-tiled chateau sits in the heart of the gardens. Stroll the pathways and be wowed by magnificent views over the Dordogne valley, as you gaze upon centuries of history, hilltop castles, landscapes and villages located on either side of one of Europe’s most beautiful rivers. Visitors can enjoy the gardens every day of the year and even take part in rock climbing adventures along the rugged 200-metre-long ‘Via Ferrata’ during the summer.

Domme

Officially one of the “Most Beautiful Villages of France”, Domme was founded in 1281. Perched on a protected cliff, the village has a unique architectural heritage including its ramparts and the Porte des Tours (Gate of the Towers) in which imprisoned Knights Templars carvings are, still visible today. Enjoy panoramic views from the terraced belvedere over the Dordogne valley, visit the wonderful, natural, underground cave, a hidden gem full of stalactites (once a shelter for prehistoric people) and stop by the Cellier du Périgord to take home their gourmet baskets of the best local delicacies!

Château des Milandes

The 15^th century Château des Milandes in Castelnaud-la-Chapelle was built by François de Caumont, Lord of Castelnaud in 1489 to please his wife, Claude de Cardaillac. It has splendid architectural features such as turrets, a winding staircase and gargoyles. The castle was once home to Josephine Baker, the singer and actress who became a civil rights activist and heroine of World War II. Displays and an audio guided tour of the castle tell her extraordinary life story. Explore the exquisite chapel and attractive gardens and watch the fascinating bird of prey display overlooking the Dordogne valley. Take a break at the nearby delicious La Brasserie des Milandes.

Rocamadour

No trip to the Dordogne Valley would be complete without a visit to Rocamadour, an enchanting medieval village, nestled in the Alzou Gorges in the Lot department. Located an hour east of Sarlat, Rocamadour is recognised as one of the most beautiful villages in France. A place of pilgrimage and history with a 14^th century chateau, chapels and churches, this captivating cliff top village is not to be missed.

La Gare – Espace Robert Doisneau

Since the remarkable Gare Robert Doisneau exhibition space opened its doors in 2018, it has welcomed over 60,000 visitors to view the photograher’s wonderful collection of images capturing the spirit of Dordogne. The galleries, in the former Carlux Train Station, display Doisneau’s photos of the region taked on holidays and working trips.

Stay at: Domaine de Rochebois makes a great base to explore Sarlat and the surrounding area. Just 6km from Sarlat, the refined and friendly 5-star luxury hotel in a 19^th century manor house is in an exceptional countryside setting and has a golf course, spa and pool, stunning 360-degree views from the panoramic terrace, and two restaurants.

Jeremy Flint is an award-winning professional photographer and writer specialising in travel, landscape and location photography. His work is published extensively in The Good Life France Magazine, National Geographic Traveller Lonely Planet and Country Life amongst others. He is a five-time finalist in Travel Photographer of the Year, Association of Photographers Discovery Award Winner and National Geographic Traveller Grand Prize Winner.

Find more information about Sarlat-la-Canéda and the Dordogne Valley at: Dordogne-perigord-tourism.fr

What to take a tour of Dordogne and Bordeaux – TripUSAFrance offer a week-long fabulous experience:Book your place on this superb, exclusive, small group tour at: tripusafrance.com/bordeaux-dordogne-tour

Want more France?

Discover more fabulous destinations in France with our free magazine The Good Life France

Love France? Have a listen to our podcast – everything you want to know about France and more!

All rights reserved. This article may not be published, broadcast, rewritten (including translated) or redistributed without written permission.

The post What to see and do in Sarlat-la-Canéda – and around appeared first on The Good Life France.

Even if you can’t pinpoint it on a map, the town of Bergerac will almost certainly sound familiar. Standing amongst the vineyards of south-west France, this bustling community of around 27,000 people is the second largest town in the department of Dordogne after Perigueux. But Bergerac’s biggest claim to fame is through a man with only a distant connection to the town.

Cyrano de Bergerac

Parisian by birth, 17^th century novelist and playwright Hercule Savinien de Cyrano grew up on a family estate outside Paris, given to its original owner by King Charles VI for his contribution in capturing Bergerac from the English. So, when young Hercule joined the Gascon Musketeers, he bracketed ‘de Bergerac’ to his family name as something of a personal statement. After a brief military career, Cyrano de Bergerac led a short but colourful life as part of the libertine movement of literature, dying in an accident in Paris in 1655 aged just 36.

And there the story might have ended, had it not been for a play written nearly 250 years later. In 1897, Edmond Rostand created a work of fiction loosely based on Cyrano, but portraying him as a gifted Gascon poet with a very large nose, who secretly loves his cousin Roxane but believes he is unattractive to women. The story of how Cyrano woos her with his poetry on behalf of a friend has been acted out on stage, television and cinema screens ever since. And today you can admire his facial physique in two statues that grace the Art & History town that shares his name.

The best of Bergerac and around

Bergerac’s historic quarter is a pleasant place to while away a few hours with its ancient streets and bustling marketplace. Or maybe take a boat trip in a traditional Dordogne barge or gabarre. First-time visitors are also surprised to find France’s only Tobacco Museum, a discovery centre for a plant once widely grown in the area.

But the surrounding area is packed with interest too, from heritage towns to lush countryside, riverside walks to some of France’s Most Beautiful Villages. And if you have even a passing interest in wine, you can soak up the vineyard atmosphere first hand with a stay at Chateau Masburel, west of Bergerac near the village of Fougueyrolles.

Bergerac lies in the area known as Purple Périgord, a land of vineyards that morphs into the Bordeaux region. Successive owners at Chateau Masburel have produced wine here since 1740 when both chateau and vineyard were planted by a Consul to King Louis XV. Over the centuries, the vineyard became established within the Montravel appellation, whose chief function is to produce the top Bergerac wines grand crus. Exclusively producing both sweet and dry white wines until 200l, Montravel also now includes excellent red vintages.

Today the vines at Chateau Masburel are in the capable hands of Chris Walker and Irma Lazickiene who also welcome guests to their four themed bedrooms, each with en-suite and vineyard views, as well as to the Tapestry Gîte, separate from the main chateau with two luxury bedrooms. Stay on site and you can tour the 19 hectares of vineyards, taste the vintages and buy from the vineyard shop at your leisure.

Whether you love wine, history, or just the irresistible pull of ancient stones, Chateau Masburel makes a great base for a holiday in the Dordogne and surrounding area.  Take a 40-minute drive west to Saint-Emilion, another iconic name known across the wine-drinking world. This enchanting town tumbles down a steep hillside in a maze of historic streets. Don’t miss the monolithic church hewn out of the rock in the 12^th century, the Romanesque keep, or the Cordeliers cloister. And don’t leave without tasting the town’s signature macaroons made with ground almonds. Oh, and the famous red wine of course!

Pretty villages near Bergerac

If you can’t resist a historic village, there are three within 90 minutes of Masburel that are classified amongst Les Plus Beaux Villages de France. Closest is Monpazier, just over an hour to the south. Founded in 1284 by King Edward I of England, this medieval fortified town still retains its arcaded central square and original grid street pattern.

Nearby Belvès dominates the verdant valley of the Nauze river and offers panoramic views over the Périgord Noir region. Besieged seven times by English soldiers during the Hundred Years War and by Protestant forces in the Wars of religion, Belvès still boasts troglodyte cave dwellings and fine buildings from the Middle Ages and Renaissance.

Also listed amongst Les Plus Beaux Villages is Limeuil at the junction of the Dordogne and Vézère rivers, once a trading centre that bustled with the comings and goings of barges and boatmen. Walk up to the panoramic themed gardens of the castle park and don’t miss the frescoes at Chapelle Saint-Martin, one of the most beautiful Romanesque chapels in the Périgord.

Périgueux

Chief town of the Dordogne department and capital of the White Périgord, Périgueux is around an hour’s drive north of the Masburel domaine and a definite must-do. Dominating the town is the UNESCO-listed cathedral of St Front, embellished with domes and minarets, and restored in the 19^th century by Paul Abadie who later used it as a model for the Sacré Coeur in Montmartre. Today Saint-Front is still an important stopping point on the pilgrims’ route to Santiago de Compostela.

The town retains many timber-framed houses and fortified properties from the Middle Ages and the historic centre includes a cobbled artisan district that is home to bookbinders, blacksmiths and many other traditional trades. But visitors can step back even further in time at Vesunna, the remains of a large Gallo-Roman villa right in the heart of town, that are now protected by a glass building designed by architect Jean-Nouvel.

And if Périgueux whets your appetite for an urban fix, head off in the other direction to Bordeaux, a journey of less than 90 minutes whether you drive or take the train. Highlights include a vast water mirror reflecting elegant facades and changing skies; Cité du Vin, an interactive centre showcasing wines from across the world; and a wealth of restaurants, boutiques and museums.

But the lure of the vineyards and valleys, the water and woodland of Dordogne will eventually pull you back out to the countryside. And what better way to end a day of discovery than with a glass of Bergerac wine and a view of the vineyards? Santé!

Find more info at: Chateau-masburel.com; pays-bergerac-tourisme.com/en

By Gillian Thornton, one of the UK’s leading travel writers and a regular writer for The Good Life France Magazine and website.

Want more France?

Discover more fabulous destinations in France with our free magazine The Good Life France

Love France? Have a listen to our podcast – everything you want to know about France and more!

All rights reserved. This article may not be published, broadcast, rewritten (including translated) or redistributed without written permission.

The post Visit Bergerac – secret Dordogne appeared first on The Good Life France.

Once described by 16^th century French monarch Henri IV as ‘the most beautiful river in the kingdom’, the Charente meanders leisurely through some of the most picturesque countryside in western France before merging seamlessly with the Atlantic near Rochefort.

Along the way, this tranquil waterway passes through heritage towns and quiet villages, each one tempting the visitor to stop, slow down a gear and just soak up the atmosphere of sunflowers, orchards and historic stones, not to mention some of the world’s most famous vineyards. This is Cognac country, where AOC vineyards split into six areas or crus produce iconic brand names prized by connoisseurs.

Where to stay in Cognac

And at the heart of this idyllic landscape stands No.22 Cognac, a luxury farmhouse gîte rated four-star by the Office de Tourisme Charente. Sleeping 8 guests in 4 bedrooms, this character property is located in the quiet Charentais village of Louzignac, just minutes from the market towns of Rouillac and Matha, and just 20 minutes from Cognac. The perfect base for an authentic French holiday that can be as active or passive as you please.

Dating from the 1840s, No.22 Cognac is set in its own secluded garden enclosed by stone walls and with exclusive use of a heated outdoor pool. A sunny terrace and barbecue area are perfect for casual evenings at home, whilst celebrity chef Jean-Yves Corvez runs a restaurant nearby – La Table du Chef Corvez – which is perfect for those evenings when you fancy a culinary treat.

Farmhouse owners Paul and Carolyn Saunders make sure that guests have everything they need to enjoy their holiday, starting with a hamper of local produce and cooking essentials on arrival. There are pool towels and robes, garden furniture, and a wealth of information on what to see and do in the area from vineyard visits to markets, cultural sites to restaurants and leisure facilities.

What to see and do in Cognac

The choice is not what to do, but what to do first. Big local must-do is Cognac itself, just a short drive from your holiday farmhouse. Big name brands here include Martell and Remy Martin and cellar tours and other experiences can be booked ahead on line. But if you have no particular brand loyalty, maybe head to Baron Otard in the Château de Cognac castle for a slug of history with your tipple. Renaissance king François 1 was born here in 1494 and Richard the Lionheart stayed at the castle when he came to bless the wedding of his illegitimate son Philip of Cognac. Take a tour of the Cognac museum and discovery centre too and perhaps a tranquil river cruise. Also on the Charente and less than half an hour from No.22 Cognac is Jarnac, headquarters of Courvoisier and Hine.

What to do near Cognac

Drive north for half an hour from No.22 Cognac and you come to St-Jean-d’Angely, where the towers of the unfinished Royal Abbey can be seen from miles around. Wander the lanes of the old town with their narrow alleys and medieval houses, and visit on Wednesday and Saturday mornings to stock up on fresh local produce at the market. A real feast for the senses.

Back on the banks of the Charente, just south No.22 Cognac, three other towns are a must-do for anyone who loves history, heritage, and a hefty dose of local lifestyle. Just 40 minutes to the east lies Angoulême, internationally known as the capital of France’s thriving BD industry. BD? That’s the acronym for Bande Dessinée or comic strip, a hugely popular French art form that is celebrated in a riverside museum. Explore the elegant streets of the hilltop upper town, follow the street art trail, and check out the treasures of Saint-Pierre Cathedral.

Follow the Charente west from Cognac and you come to Saintes, a market town since Roman times that still boasts an amphitheatre dating from around 50AD during the reign of Emperor Claudius. Discover the town’s beautiful churches, great shops and – of course – another excellent market.

From Saintes, the Charente turns north towards Rochefort, a stylish town that has plenty to occupy visitors for a packed day out. An hour’s drive from No.22, this once sleepy village was transformed in the 1660s to the Royal Dockyards for ‘Sun King’ Louis XIV. Visit the Corderie Royale or Royal Rope Factory, a ‘Versailles-style’ building where long ropes were produced for rigging war ships. Discover the story behind the replica 18^th century frigate Hermione – maybe even see her in dock – and take a trip down Memory Lane at the Musée des Commerces d’Autrefois.  And if you can’t resist a garden, stroll through the public gardens of exotic plants brought back by expedition ships, as well as France’s national begonia conservatory. First landed in Rochefort by plant hunters seeking new specimens, the species was named after Monsieur Bégon, local superintendent for the king.

Whether you fancy a busy day out or a low-key outing closer to base, guests at No.22 will find information and inspiration in the comprehensive guide prepared by Paul and Carolyn, and available on their website. Family-friendly destinations include the holiday resort of Royan, just over an hour away; boat trips along the river; and close-up encounters with gorgeous Poitou donkeys. Much larger than your average donkey, these adorable animals are always chocolate brown in colour with huge ears and thick woolly coats.

And if you can’t resist a theme park, this area has two of the best, both of them unique. Get up early for the 2-hour drive to Puy du Fou, a history park with lavish live shows involving everything from Roman gladiators to marauding Vikings, musketeers to birds of prey.

Or head to Futuroscope near Poitiers, around 90 minutes away by car, for an award-winning mix of multimedia, cinematography and audio-visual techniques. Expect outdoor thrill rides, 3D and 4D shows, and activities to suit visitors of all ages.

Then come back to Cognac No.22 for a swim in your private pool, an apéro on the garden terrace, and a convivial meal whilst you talk over today and make a plan for tomorrow. A holiday destination that should tick everyone’s boxes.

The post What to see and do in Cognac and close by appeared first on The Good Life France.

Wherever you choose to holiday in France, there’s no escaping the blue, white and red of the French flag, patriotically displayed outside town halls and other civic buildings. But head to the far-southwest where the green foothills of the Pyrenees meet the rolling surf of the Atlantic and you’ll soon see that the Tricolore has competition. Gillian Thornton soaks up the vivid colours and vibrant culture of French Basque Country.

Basque colours

The vivid red and white flag of Basque Country celebrates the culture and lifestyle of an unofficial country within a country. Or to be entirely accurate, within two countries, for the seven historic provinces of Basque Country straddle the Pyrenean mountain range. The four largest ones lie in Spain, whilst the other three make up the western half of France’s Department 64, Pyrénées-Atlantiques. Historically, the provinces share customs, culture and even a common language, Euskara. Now widely taught in local schools it bears no resemblance at all to French, or indeed any other language.

Basque architecture is as distinctive as the language. Wooden timbers painted in traditional ox-blood red or forest green splash across whitewashed facades at every turn, giving a permanently upbeat feel to towns and villages, whatever the weather.

Biarritz

But there’s a grander side to the Pays Basque too in the Belle Epoque mansions of elegant Biarritz. Napoleon III and his wife Eugènie commissioned a sumptuous summer palace here on the seafront, now repurposed as the 5* Hôtel du Palais. And where the emperor went, the aristocracy of Europe followed, building flamboyant seaside villas of their own.

But in the 1950s, this chic seaside resort welcomed a new kind of clientele with the advent of Californian surf culture. Seventy years on, Biarritz still exudes this heady mix of period elegance and buzzing youth culture, and there are few nicer ways to soak it up than to walk the undulating promenade around the Grande Plage where surfers skilfully ride the waves towards the Casino.

My favourite coastal stroll leads south, past the old fishing port with its buzzing quayside restaurants and round the headland to the town’s excellent aquarium. Opposite the Art Deco façade, a high-level walkway leads over the waves to the emblematic statue of the Virgin on a rock, so walk on water to catch those sweeping views back across the Grande Plage to the lighthouse. Stop off for a meal or a drink at the Vieux Port then drop down to the Côtes des Basques, birthplace of surfing in France, for more surfboard action and views to La Rhune, highest point in the western Pyrenees.

But Biarritz isn’t the only gem on the French Basque Coast. Small resorts dot the sandy shoreline as you head towards Spain, but the must-see seaside town is Saint-Jean-de-Luz where Louis XIV married Maria Theresa of Spain in 1660 at the church of St John the Baptist, today located on the main shopping street.

If you’re searching for gifts, take a look at traditional striped Basque linens, buy a pair of local espadrilles, or maybe stock up at Maison Adam on scrumptious macaroons, first presented to Louis XIV before his wedding. His bride-to-be spent the eve of the ceremony at the pink-washed ‘Infanta House’ overlooking the busy fishing harbour.

Across the harbour in Ciboure stands the birthplace of composer Maurice Ravel who penned his famous Boléro in 1928 whilst on holiday in St-Jean-de-Luz.

Stunning beaches and beautiful Bayonne

North of Biarritz, the straight sandy shore of Anglet embraces a succession of well-serviced beaches such as Chambre d’Amour as far as the mouth of the Adour. A few kilometres upriver lies Bayonne (top photo), unofficial capital of French Basque Country and administratively linked with Biarritz and Anglet as B-A-B.

Immerse yourself in what it means to be Basque at the Basque Museum, housed in a former merchant’s house on the quayside. Explore the narrow streets of half-timbered houses in the cathedral quarter. And, on Saturday mornings, browse the street stalls that fringe the quaysides and bridges around the covered market.

For a true taste of the town, discover Bayonne’s two signature products, chocolate and ham. Chocolate first arrived in France in the 16^th century via Jewish immigrants escaping the Spanish inquisition and there are many independent chocolate makers each with their own speciality. Look out too for producers of Bayonne’s famous cured ham, made from Basque Country pig meat that is cured and treated with local salt and with crushed pimentos from the nearby village of Espelette.

Tempting though it is to linger by the ocean, the lush green interior of French Basque Country is a must-see. Take the cog railway to the top of La Rhune for a seagull’s eye view of coast and countryside. Go underground at the Grottes de Sare and the Grottes d’Isturitz and Oxocelhaya for fabulous rock formations. And at Cambo-les-Bains, stroll through the glorious formal garden and sun-drenched rooms of Villa Arnaga, former home of Edmond Rostand, author of Cyrano de Bergerac.

Nearby Espelette is an extravaganza in red and white, not just in the architecture and flags, but in the ubiquitous strings of scarlet peppers that adorn houses, shop fronts, and restaurants. Along with Sare, Ainhoa and La Bastide-Clairance, Espelette is classified amongst the elite band of Plus Beaux Villages de France.

Basque sports

And wherever you stop, look out for a curious high single wall behind an open space, often in the village centre. This is a fronton, all that’s required for Basque Country’s signature game, pelota, played squash-style against the wall. Variations of the game – some of them played indoors – use a leather glove, wicker basket or even a bare hand to hit the ball in this high-octane sport.

But there’s a third sport that seems part of the Basque DNA. Several high profile rugby players hail from the region and a number of former internationals can be found running restaurants, bars and even clothing brands. Passions run high when the whistle blows and everyone is invited to join in the good-natured fun, so don’t even try to resist. Just go with the flow and soak up the atmosphere of this exciting and welcoming region.

www.biarritz-pays-basque.com

By Gillian Thornton, one of the UK’s leading travel writers and a regular writer for The Good Life France Magazine and website.

More Basque articles

Take a slow tour through French Basque Country

The macarons of the Basque Country

How to make a Basque Gateau – a delicious and delicious regional cake

Want more France?

Discover more fabulous destinations in France with our free magazine The Good Life France

Love France? Have a listen to our podcast – everything you want to know about France and more!

All rights reserved. This article may not be published, broadcast, rewritten (including translated) or redistributed without written permission.

The post The French Basque Country appeared first on The Good Life France.

Dordogne is one of the five departments of Aquitaine, now part of the super region Nouvelle Aquitaine (which includes Limousin and Poitou-Charentes). Aquitaine stretches along the Atlantic coast, from the Gironde estuary to the Basque country, along the Pyrenees Mountains on the Spanish border to the picture-postcard pretty towns and villages in Dordogne.

Visit the region that’s a wine and food lovers dream and start your journey by staying at the 18^th century Chateau de Masburel in the heart of Dordogne. Idyllically set in the glorious countryside, surrounded by vineyards, it’s the perfect location to experience the French lifestyle. Close to the historic town of Bergerac, the historic castle is within easy travelling distance of the best of Dordogne and of Aquitaine. There are markets close by with fabulous local production and there’s wine tasting at the Chateau, of course. And not just any old wines. These are multi-award winning fabulous whites and reds.

Chateau Masburel, built from honey-coloured stone for one of Louis XV’s tax collectors who lived in nearby lovely Saint-Foy, has been making wine since before the French Revolution. Choose from the plush B&B or the gorgeous gite for your perfect Dordogne holiday home.

From the Chateau you have access to a wide range of superb activities and some of the officially ‘Most beautiful villages of France’, plus an abundance of prehistoric sites.

Here are just a few of our favourite places for food and wine lovers that are within easy distance of the chateau.

Bergerac and surroundings

Nearby Bergerac, a historic town of half-timbered houses is home to many restaurants serving traditional dishes. The Maison des Vins in the town is located in the former 17^th century cloisters and showcases the regions wines, and includes a super tasting session. Go on a Wednesday or Saturday morning for the lovely market in the shadow of the Gothic bell tower of the Cathedral of Notre-Dame. You’ll discover the best of the local produce – from duck foie gras, goose confit, cabécou, soft goat’s cheese, truffles, strawberries, Périgord walnuts, chestnuts, caviar and of course the local wines.

And at the pretty as a picture Renaissance chateau de Monbazillac not far from Bergerac, you can enjoy a wine tasting – including the fabulous mellow white wine of the same name. You should drink it very cold as an aperitif, with paté, or with dessert – it’s especially good with strawberries.

Meanwhile The Naked Vigneron in Margeuron involves no nudism but offers vineyard tastings and food experiences! From posh picnics by a pond to fabulous four course dinners, plus a private tour of the winery.

Sarlat

Capital of the Périgord Noir, the town of Sarlat is the jewel in the crown of the Dordogne and numerous fetes are dedicated to the local gems of French gastronomy. Go on a Wednesday or Saturday morning for the superb, sprawling market in the medieval centre. On other days head to the covered market in a former church – you can’t miss it, the doors are monumental. Wander the cobblestoned streets, explore the winding alleys and ogle at the ancient buildings from Medieval to Renaissance.

Cadillac

Just outside the city of Cadillac, around an hour and a half from Bergerac, the local Maison des Vins is in an old Charterhouse with a rich historical past. The museum, which received a gold award for its art and culture, is at the heart of the wine tourism region and includes a shop and tasting section.

Bordeaux

Aquitaine’s regional capital Bordeaux, a former commercial harbour, is a must-see. Home to large avenues, beautiful gardens and revamped quays, plus splendid 18^th century buildings that have earned the city UNESCO World Heritage Site. Don’t miss the Cité du Vin museum, a fascinating journey into the world of wine, plus a fabulous tasting bar on the 7^th floor with views over the city.

Bordeaux is also considered as the gateway to the famous vineyards where winegrowers are happy to welcome you for a visit and a wine tasting. Pomerol, Saint Emilion, Pessac Leognan, Entre deux Mers, Medoc, Cote de Blaye – fabulous wines and hundreds of Chateaux! Some belong to international brands, some are small and private, and they are spread across a radius of about 60 miles around Bordeaux, from Bergerac to the Gironde Estuary.

Book your stay at the Chateau de Masburel and enjoy a feast of experiences in Aquitaine: chateau-masburel.com

The post Food and wine lovers guide to Dordogne appeared first on The Good Life France.

If you like your beaches on the quiet side, you might be better off heading to landlocked Limousin than one of France’s many coastal resorts. Sometimes referred to as the lake district of France, Limousin is home to 23,000 lakes. The largest, Vassivière, is an enormous expanse of around 10km2. As well as providing water and hydroelectricity this manmade reservoir has pretty much everything you need for a perfect day at the beach, minus the crowds and the extortionate prices.

A beach for all weathers

Since moving to the Limousin, I’ve discovered that beaches have something to offer no matter the season. As a mum of five, I often find myself driving the 20 minutes it takes to get us lakeside, in all manner of weathers, wrestling struggling children into waterproofs or using jumpers as towels after impromptu swims.

While it can be a little cold in the winter months, it never fails to be stunningly beautiful, and walks on the beach always leave us all shivering but invigorated.

Protected

Despite having several sandy beaches, an island and enough water sport opportunities to satisfy fanatics, the lake still feels tranquil and relatively remote. This is, in part, due to the fact that it falls inside the ‘Millevaches Regional Natural Park,’ a conservation area meaning building opportunities are limited.

This is great news for families on a budget, and not only because, although there’s a couple of kiosks in summer and restaurants close by, there are no real opportunities to buy beach merch, and ice-cream remains avoidable if you’re feeling a little short of cash. It means visiting the beach can be an affordable, regular activity during school holidays.

Wave free

While you still need to keep an eye on the kids in the water, the lake is more predictable than the sea for swimming and paddling. Without waves and strong currents, playing or swimming in the water perhaps lacks an element of fun that the sea provides, but when you’re keeping an eye on little ones, it’s nice to know you don’t have to worry about these hazards. If you’ve ever been knocked over by the salty slap of a wave, you’ll probably welcome this gently rippling alternative.

Activities a-plenty

Whether you’re into sailing, kayak, motor boating, windsurfing, paddleboarding or want to try your hand on an inflatable obstacle course, there’s plenty to do in the summer months. As well as water sports, there’s local crazy golf and treetop obstacle courses to combat. And if you’re more into sandcastles or sunbathing, there are plenty of opportunity for that too.

The isle de Vassivière in the centre of the lake can be accessed by a road bridge, or a taxi boat and hosts an artists’ retreat, artisan bakery, sculpture walk and even its own art gallery.

Quiet

Unless you’re heading there in the summer months, when tourism suddenly explodes, you’ll find the area surprisingly quiet. In September, the weather can still hit heady summer temperatures, but the beaches often remain fairly quiet, or even empty. It’s one of the few places where you can still pretend to have your own private beach, at least sometimes!

Gillian Harvey is a freelance writer and author living in Limousin, France, with her husband and five children.

The post Beaches of Lake Vassivière, Limousin appeared first on The Good Life France.

Aim for the top and have a sense of humour when it comes to castles in Dordogne says Mike Zampa…

We moved into our part-time home last month in France’s Dordogne Valley. Our village is called La Roque Gageac. We’re halfway up a steep hill above the glistening Dordogne River AKA the suburbs of this 13th-century town of 400 people. Downtown is nestled at the foot of a sheer cliff hundreds of feet straight up.

People like to be on top of things in Southwest France – or more precisely, on top of the world. At our house in California, heaven is a flat lot for the swimming pool. Here, only water sans gazeuse is flat. Everything else is built on perches.

Historians say hilltop towns reflect the Dordogne’s brutish history. Marauders and invading armies convinced villagers to build above the fray. Far enough up and the pillagers would look for alternatives the rationale went.

Fortunately for us, the strategy worked… sort of. Villagers were still terrorized through the Middle Ages. But their towns survived. What’s left are hamlets listed among the most beautiful in France. Breath-taking in every sense of the word.

Here’s a list of top (pun intended) towns at altitude in the Dordogne, each more beautiful than the last. Their names are followed by their rating on our highly scientific high-o-meter.

La Roque Gageac (Nosebleed high)

The village of  Roque Gageac dates to the 12th century when troglodytes lived in caves. It begins on the banks of the Dordogne then goes straight up. From the river, it’s a picture in a storybook. From the cavern-like fort etched out of a cliff face, it’s a nosebleed. Villagers retreated to the fort to escape Vikings with world domination issues. Today you can scale 174 stairs to the fort. The staircase clings to the cliff. You would too if you saw a Viking.

Beynac (uncomfortably high)

Beynac is overshadowed by its castle rising hundreds of feet above the Dordogne. It’s within eyesight of its adversary, Castelnaud, just minutes up the river. Both fortresses were focal points of the Hundred Years War. To understand which country – France or Britain – controlled which castle, read a book. It’s too hard to explain here. You can reach the castle by climbing a twisting, cobblestone path flanked by dreamy stone cottages. What they don’t tell you is that you don’t need to walk up the steep path. There’s a road going up to a parking lot near the castle entrance. And they said there were no jokes coming out of the Hundred Years War.

Castelnaud (Like Beynac only steeper)

This restored castle is illuminated at night. You can see it from all over the Dordogne Valley. You can see the moon, too, though it’s not quite as high. Quaint cottages tumble down – figuratively speaking – the hillside below Castelnaud. There’s an impressive trebuchet, a catapult-like weapon that flung 400-pound boulders 40 meters. Scared the heck out of the enemy but took 60 minutes to load. During the other 59 minutes, there was hell to pay.

Limeuil (Feral cats use handrails)

Two natural phenomena define this gorgeous hilltop village. The first: The Dordogne and Vézère rivers converge here under two lovely arched bridges. The second: no two Frenchmen pronounce Limeuil the same way. Take the sharp vertical drop from the hilltop lookout past picturesque shops. It will take your mind off the fact you’re basically descending the face of the Chrysler Building.

Domme (Don’t look down)

This is a classic Bastide town. That means it was built behind a wall on a hilltop to discourage invaders. What a waste of time. The first invaders took one look at Domme and said: “No way I’m climbing that.” In addition to altitude, Domme has one other claim: the most beautiful view in the world. You can see miles of geometrically cultivated farmland from its Belvedere. There’s also a magnificent river view of the Dordogne making a hard left turn to neighboring Vitrac.

In summary, Southwest France has peaks and a valley. It’s all beautiful, but the peaks will have you over the moon…quite literally.

The post Castles in the sky in Dordogne! appeared first on The Good Life France.

There is a museum near Agen in south-west France that will move you in a way no museum has moved you before.

You’ll feel your body’s bile production surge, blood sugar level stabilize, ossification parameters dramatically improve and cholesterol rapidly plummet. You may even feel the toxins being flushed away. The relaxation is tangible. The soluble fibre palpable.

You don’t get any of that at the Louvre.

Or by staring up at the Sistine ceiling.

The New York Met and Tate London have nothing on Musée du Pruneau on the Berino-Matinet farm in Lafitte-sur-Lot in Lot-et-Garonne.

“Awe” is the only word for it.

It’s the only way you can describe the feeling you get when you find yourself in the presence of the world’s two oldest prunes.

The star attractions and most prized of the world’s first – and so far only – prune museum, are some elderly and very frail plums. They are the oldest and most wizened prunes in captivity. Experts believe them to be priceless. Although they will never be auctioned. Food safety regulations assure that.

“Le Musée du Pruneau Gourmand” houses a unique collection of prune-related paraphernalia. Its famous pickled relics, which are kept in an airtight and thief-proof cabinet to deter private collectors (yes really), date back to 1857. They are local celebrities. Although no longer edible, they are of great historical significance.

Agen

Agen is the centre of France’s plum-growing and prune-producing industry. This is a region that is steeped in prunes. Every September, millions of purple, velvety soft plums are shaken into huge, inverted umbrellas in the Lot-et-Garonne region. Agen plums have a high sugar content which allows them to fully ripen on the tree – without fermenting around the stone. Around 30% of them are made into prunes. Agen produces an average of 45,000 tonnes of prunes each year.

“La Route du Pruneau” is an official signposted tourist route which takes you around prune-dependent villages like Beauville, Bonaguil, Lacapelle-Biron, Mouflanquin, Villeneuve-sur-Lot and the medieval village of Pujols which has a weekly market at which plums and prunes take centre stage. Local prune farms offer tastings to the passing trade.  In some towns there are “prune boutiques” selling a wide variety of pruney things. Think prunes covered in dark chocolate and perhaps a sprinkling of Espelette pepper, cream of prunes, and prunes immersed in rum, Eau de vie de Prune d’Ente and Pruneaux à l’Armagnac. Ditch those memories of prunes and cold custard you may have had at school – prunes are cool!

Agen holds an annual “Great Prune Show” during the last weekend in August. The Town Hall at Place Esquirol is bathed in prune-coloured light. The main street is turned into Le Boulevard des Pruneaux and prunes are given away for free.

Prunes are everywhere. You half expect to go to your hotel room and find a prune waiting for you on your pillow.

At the shop of the Maitre Prunille factory in Casseneuil they will tell you ‘we French treasure our prunes. They are in our blood. Our mothers brought us up with prune bread, glazed tarts, soft custard filled pastries, petit fours filled with prunes. At Christmas, the turkey is always stuffed with prunes.’

The surprisingly fascinating history of the prune

In French “une prune” is, in fact, a plum and a prune is “un pruneau”. The Agen prune, which received its official appellation in the eighteenth century, was first known as the “Prune de Bordeaux” because it was shipped in great quantities to England and Holland from the port of Bordeaux.

Plum seeds first made their way to France from China, transported by merchants via the Silk Road. The Romans planted plum trees in Gaul and Benedictine monks of the Abbey of Clairac (in the Lot-et-Garonne) brought back the plum trees that we know, on their return from the Crusades in the 12th century. One of the most popular varieties today is prune d´Ente, which comes from the old French word ‘enter’, which means to graft, due to the monks grafting the trees to make them bear fruit. Prune cultivation developed in the 16th century.

Agen prunes are the only dried fruit to have an European Union PGI (Protection Geographical Indication Origine).

Prunes, prunes and more prunes

Throughout the region of Lot-et-Garonne, you will find prune dishes on menus in most restaurants. Prune bread, prune tajines, potato and prune vegetable dishes, and pretty much everything from guinea fowl breasts, duck and geese to mushrooms stuffed with prunes. And for dessert, prune crumble with the local Armagnac grape is rather delicious. They’re also popular at the bottom of a glass of hot wine at Christmas.

To create a prune, cooking time is determined by the plum’s sugar level. Usually this is between 18-26 hours at 75 deg C. Two centuries ago they were dried over brambles, then in a fournière, or bread oven. After drying, called le machonnage, the prunes are graded. It takes 3 kilos of plums to produce one kilo of prunes.

At Confiserie Boisson sweet shop in the backstreets of Agen, six generations of the Boisson family has been bathing and boiling prunes in big brass pots and oven-drying them since 1835. The shop is crammed with prune conserves, jams, bon bons and their speciality, chocolate-truffle prunes with prune paste.

One visit to this shop, and you’ll become a regular…

Did you know: Prunes were introduced to the USA by Frenchman Louis Pellier from Agen, who went in search of California gold. His gold mining venture was a failure and he turned to farming. In 1850, Pellier grafted a cutting of d’Agen rootstock onto wild plum trees growing in the Santa Clara Valley. And the rest as they say is history…

Useful sites: Musee-du-pruneau.com; en.destination-agen.com

Recipe for Far Breton – a custard tart with prunes, speciality of Brittany

The post The Prune route of France appeared first on The Good Life France.

We asked Anthony Deperi who lives and works in Bordeaux, about his favourite places in the sunny city. Originally from Alsace, he loves to explore the charms and secret places of Bordeaux.

Discover the places the locals love in Bordeaux…

Favourite Bordeaux bar?

My favourite bar is the Rooftop Yacht Club at the Grand Hotel. It’s the perfect place to enjoy delicious cocktails with a great view over the rooftops Bordeaux. You can see all the emblematic figures of the city including the fabulous Opera House.

Favourite Bordeaux restaurant

As an unconditional fan of Italian cuisine, I always turn to Osteria Palatino from the Big Mamma group. They have a super menu with a great variety of dishes, and on top of that, you get an immersive experience with the friendly waiters with their authentic Italian accents. Pure dolce vita – Bordeaux style.

Where would you go with friends after work for an aperitif and to relax?

My favourite place is Le Vertige. It’s a wine bar with hundreds of wines. The staff are lovely, it feels like you’re visiting friends. It’s right in the centre of town, so it’s easy to get to.

What is your favourite place to go to on a Sunday afternoon?

I love going to the Bassin d’Arcachon seaside resort on the Atlantic coast, home to the Dune de Pilat, the tallest sand dune in Europe. It doesn’t matter whether it’s summer or winter, you rediscover the richness of the region. In summer, you can enjoy the fine sandy beaches, oyster tasting and water sports. And in winter explore the town, and maybe go horse-riding, it’s never that cold! It’s less than an hour by train from the centre of Bordeaux and there are around 20 trains a day.

Favourite cultural venue?

Of course, at the Cité du Vin.  The permanent tour is immersive and interactive helps you discover so much about wine. And there are always new, temporary exhibitions.

Where would you go to enjoy a picnic in the city?

The Jardin Public is the green lung of Bordeaux, a huge garden with flowers that smell lovely and shady trees. When the weather is good, you can spend a whole day there and hardly notice the passing of time!

Favourite cake shop

I take all my friends to the coffee shop, PNP – Personne N’est Parfait. These are healthy and delicious desserts that make you want to eat so much. I love to go here for a hot drink and snack for le gouter (snack time) – it’s the best time of the day. I can’t say no to a cannelé, my favourite is from La Toque Cuivrée.

If you want to get out of the city for a day – where would you go?

Saint-Emilion is the perfect place to get away from the hustle and bustle of Bordeaux and discover a new landscape. Situated 40 minutes from Bordeaux, this delightful medieval village in the heart of the famous Bordeaux vineyards is unique due to the size of its vineyards, the quality of its wines and the majesty of its architecture and monuments.

Best place for shopping in the city?

Bord’Eau Village is a place where there is always something going on. It’s a destination in itself. A place to shop but also to meet people and stroll along the river Garonne.

Favourite event held in Bordeaux?

That’s easy – it’s Bordeaux Fête Le Vin! This year it was my first time to go, and it’s a fabulous fun event that brings together the locals as well as visitors to the city to enjoy great wine. At this event you’ll “follow” the iconic wine route through the different villages of the appellations, and you’ll taste delicious Bordeaux wines. There’s a really friendly atmosphere, beautiful sailing boats that are open to visitors, festive and pretty rest and meeting areas, a regional gastronomic delights on offer and cultural and festive activities spread throughout the festival.

Anthony Deperi is the marketing and communications executive at the Intercontinental Bordeaux – Le Grand Hotel.

The post Locals Guide to: Bordeaux appeared first on The Good Life France.