What to see and do in Sarlat-la-Canéda in Dordogne, plus the the best things to see and do in the area around.
The old town of Sarlat-la-Canéda, in the heart of the Périgord Noir in Southeast Dordogne, dates to Gallo-Roman times at least. But it underwent a period of growth during the Middle Ages, developing around the Cathedral Saint-Sacerdos, which is mentioned in records as early as the year 1081. Today, Sarlat is one of the most beautiful preserved medieval complexes in Europe with an exceptional heritage and wealth of architectural wonders.
The best way to explore the town is on foot. The 13th century Manoir de Gisson with its elegant tower, mullioned windows, and decorative period furnishings is a good starting point. Inside you’ll discover how the bourgeoisie lived. Next, head to the Place du Marché aux Oies, where a traditional goose market used to be held, remembered in the emblematic bronze sculpture of three life-sized geese. Stroll Sarlat’s charming, cobbled streets, past inner courtyards and through picturesque squares to the Lanterne des Morts, an unusual bullet-shaped stone structure. And don’t miss the monumental Cathédrale Saint-Sacerdos, redeveloped over the centuries combining Roman and Gothic styles. It is now a listed monument and still a working church.
As a regional gastronomic hub, Sarlat’s twice weekly markets (Wednesday and Saturday mornings) have served shoppers since the Middle Ages. Soak up the aromas of the product filled stalls where local seasonal delicacies like strawberries, walnuts and truffles are abundant. Visit the covered market in the former 12th century Church of Sante-Marie for yet more delicious produce.
The streets are lined with fantastic restaurants, trendy bistros, traditional cafés and farmhouse inns. You will be spoiled for choice when it comes to amazing food and mouth-watering specialities such as foie gras, duck, goose and truffle. I couldn’t resist the daily lunch menu and authentic cuisine at La Couleuvrine restaurant which has been in the same family for three generations.
What to see near Sarlat
Lascaux IV Cave
30 minutes north of Sarlat in Montignac in the Vézère Valley, lies the Lascaux IV decorated cave. Entering feels like going back to prehistoric times – the paintings are breath-taking. The cave is a complete replica of a nearby original cave which was discovered in 1940 but is now closed for its protection. Lascaux IV showcases the complexity of the painted art of our ancestors who used pigments of powder from crushed stones mixed with water to create the spectacular paintings of animals. Enjoy a guided tour of the cave, the interactive digital exhibition and museum to learn how the complex multicoloured frescoes evolved. Take a break and enjoy delicious traditional cuisine at La Parenthèse, a stone’s throw from the cave.
Marqueyssac Gardens
Three centuries of gardening passion have made the Marqueyssac Gardens one of the most spectacular sites in Perigord Noir. There are more than 150,000 hand-pruned boxwoods and 6km of trails offering spectacular viewpoints. A superb early 19th Century stone-tiled chateau sits in the heart of the gardens. Stroll the pathways and be wowed by magnificent views over the Dordogne valley, as you gaze upon centuries of history, hilltop castles, landscapes and villages located on either side of one of Europe’s most beautiful rivers. Visitors can enjoy the gardens every day of the year and even take part in rock climbing adventures along the rugged 200-metre-long ‘Via Ferrata’ during the summer.
Domme
Officially one of the “Most Beautiful Villages of France”, Domme was founded in 1281. Perched on a protected cliff, the village has a unique architectural heritage including its ramparts and the Porte des Tours (Gate of the Towers) in which imprisoned Knights Templars carvings are, still visible today. Enjoy panoramic views from the terraced belvedere over the Dordogne valley, visit the wonderful, natural, underground cave, a hidden gem full of stalactites (once a shelter for prehistoric people) and stop by the Cellier du Périgord to take home their gourmet baskets of the best local delicacies!
Château des Milandes
The 15th century Château des Milandes in Castelnaud-la-Chapelle was built by François de Caumont, Lord of Castelnaud in 1489 to please his wife, Claude de Cardaillac. It has splendid architectural features such as turrets, a winding staircase and gargoyles. The castle was once home to Josephine Baker, the singer and actress who became a civil rights activist and heroine of World War II. Displays and an audio guided tour of the castle tell her extraordinary life story. Explore the exquisite chapel and attractive gardens and watch the fascinating bird of prey display overlooking the Dordogne valley. Take a break at the nearby delicious La Brasserie des Milandes.
Rocamadour
No trip to the Dordogne Valley would be complete without a visit to Rocamadour, an enchanting medieval village, nestled in the Alzou Gorges in the Lot department. Located an hour east of Sarlat, Rocamadour is recognised as one of the most beautiful villages in France. A place of pilgrimage and history with a 14th century chateau, chapels and churches, this captivating cliff top village is not to be missed.
La Gare – Espace Robert Doisneau
Since the remarkable Gare Robert Doisneau exhibition space opened its doors in 2018, it has welcomed over 60,000 visitors to view the photograher’s wonderful collection of images capturing the spirit of Dordogne. The galleries, in the former Carlux Train Station, display Doisneau’s photos of the region taked on holidays and working trips.
Stay at: Domaine de Rochebois makes a great base to explore Sarlat and the surrounding area. Just 6km from Sarlat, the refined and friendly 5-star luxury hotel in a 19th century manor house is in an exceptional countryside setting and has a golf course, spa and pool, stunning 360-degree views from the panoramic terrace, and two restaurants.
Jeremy Flint is an award-winning professional photographer and writer specialising in travel, landscape and location photography. His work is published extensively in The Good Life France Magazine, National Geographic Traveller Lonely Planet and Country Life amongst others. He is a five-time finalist in Travel Photographer of the Year, Association of Photographers Discovery Award Winner and National Geographic Traveller Grand Prize Winner.
Find more information about Sarlat-la-Canéda and the Dordogne Valley at: Dordogne-perigord-tourism.fr
What to take a tour of Dordogne and Bordeaux – TripUSAFrance offer a week-long fabulous experience:Book your place on this superb, exclusive, small group tour at: tripusafrance.com/bordeaux-dordogne-tour
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