The coast and countryside of the Pays d’Auge region spans the Norman departments of Calvados, Orne, and Eure. Sarah Daly explores three very distinctive towns.

Between the ports of Ouistreham and Le Havre, not far from historic Caen, the chic seaside towns of Deauville and Trouville are jewels of the ‘flowery coast’ of Lower Normandy. To the south, rolling wooded countryside is dotted with pretty villages of half-timbered buildings, apple orchards and fields of brown and white Normandy cows. This is the homeland of cider, Calvados, and delicious local cheeses, including one of France’s favourites, the creamy soft Pont L’Eveque.

Trouville

Trouville may not be quite as famous as its chic next-door neighbour Deauville, but it is one of the only places in France where you can step from the front gate of your stylish villa directly on to a sandy beach. The narrow streets are packed with interesting shops and enticing restaurants, and the harbour front is home to the imposing Marché aux Poissons where you can buy – and eat – seafood straight from the boat. Legend has it that Trouville was founded by the Vikings and is older than Deauville. This small fishing village became famous after local artist Charles Mozin exhibited paintings in Paris showing the picturesque charms of Deauville.

It became a popular haunt for Impressionist painters and grew into the elegant resort that we see today. Trouville managed to escape the two world wars relatively unscathed, although the half-timbered seafront villas were incorporated into the Nazi’s formidable Atlantic Wall fortifications, with some having concrete bunkers attached at the rear. The villas were painted in drab colours to camouflage them when they became the lodgings for senior officers. Now restored to their former glory, they provide a welcome insight into another age.

Where to eat: Between 9am and 7pm from Monday to Sunday almost every day of the year, the Halle aux Poissons fish market in Trouville serves fresh seafood and shellfish on site. Whether you fancy oysters for breakfast, lobster for lunch or a huge spider crab as an afternoon snack, they’ve got you covered. Just bring your own bread!

Locals love: In Trouville’s former aquarium, once part of the imposing Hotel de Paris, restaurant l’Aquarius, overlooks the beach. As you would expect, there’s a real emphasis on seafood here, all deliciously fresh and beautifully presented.

Lisieux

Lisieux suffered devastating bombardment by the Allies in World War Two ahead of its liberation in 1944. As a result, this neat and compact town of around 55,000 inhabitants, has many mid-20^th-century buildings alongside medieval half-timbered treasures. The most impressive feature is surely the imposing, almost century-old basilica, set high on a ridge overlooking the town and medieval cathedral. Inside, the basilica walls are covered with mosaics illustrating the life of Saint Thérèse. Born in 1873 she died at just 24 in a Lisieux convent. Second only to Lourdes, Lisieux welcomes around 30,000 pilgrims each year to honour her life and works, but for non-believers the basilica is still worth a visit for its colourful interior and the sheer scale and beauty of its construction.

Based in a typical Norman half-timbered building, the town museum tells the story of Lisieux, from the Hundred Years’ War, when it was captured by the English, up until World War Two. Collections feature distinctive, glazed ceramics from the nearby Pré d’Auge workshop.

And don’t miss the chance to try the area’s famous apple brandy at nearby Château du Breuil, home to renowned Calvados distillery La Spiriterie Française.

Where to eat: Situated in the heart of Lisieux, Les Soeurs Pinard is a lively bar/restaurant with fresh and imaginative dishes.

Locals love: In the village of Manerbe, Le Pot d’Etain has a seafood and traditional French cuisine menu using local and seasonal products.

Pont L’Eveque

This historic town lies almost exactly halfway between Lisieux and the seaside towns of Deauville and Trouville. The medieval centre is full of typical Normandy half-timbered architecture and buildings which feature the region’s distinctive chequerboard Pré d’Auge glazed green bricks. The area is famous for Pont l’Eveque cheese. Production dates back to the early Middle Ages, the cheese originally made by monks and named after the village where they sold it at market. Perfect with a glass of refreshing local cider! At the local market you’ll find many small, traditional producers of Pont l’Eveque selling almost exclusively to their local customers. Head to the town hall to visit the town’s former prison where prisoners convicted of petty thefts were allowed their freedom during the day, returning for curfew every evening.

In the 1980s, earth was excavated to construct an extension of the A13 motorway past the town. The area naturally refilled and a lake with a beach now covers nearly 300 acres, a great base for water sports.

Where to eat: Eden Park hotel restaurant on the edge of the lake at Pont L’Eveque has gorgeous views over the water.

Don’t miss

Follow the Normandy cheese trail and discover sleepy villages, dairy farms and rolling fields – plus taste some of the creamiest, most delectable cheeses in the world: normandycheesetrail

Where to stay

• Domaine Le Coq Enchanté is a little oasis of tranquillity nestled on the edge of the picture postcard village of Cambremer.
• Pont L’Eveque: not far from the coast, Il Etait une Fois is a stylishly renovated B&B in a very traditional Norman townhouse which also has a cosy shepherd’s hut in the garden.

Useful websites

Terre d’Auge Tourisme; Trouville Tourist Office;  Calvados Attractivité

Sarah Daly is a freelance writer who lives in the far north of France.

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Normandy is a region of contrasts, of seaside resorts and glorious countryside, peppered with historic and enchanting towns and villages. This is a land of immense sandy beaches, some of which are memorials to key events of the Second World War. You’ll gasp at the ancient Bayeux Tapestry, and nothing prepares you for a memorable wow moment when you see the Mont-Saint-Michel, a breath-taking medieval town on an island topped by an ancient abbey. Honfleur with its pretty harbour, Claude Monet’s house and garden at Giverny, the city of Rouen with its Gothic cathedral – you’re seriously spoiled for things to do and see. As for food – Camembert, cider, apple tart and Calvados – need we say more?! The essential guide to Normandy – all you need to know…

The essential guide to Normandy

Easily accessible by ferry, the tunnel, train and plane, Normandy is a popular destination for tourists. It’s ideal for families with super beaches and plenty to keep kids of every age busy. It’s great for those who love history, art, nature, gardens, sports and good food. The region really does have something to suit everyone’s taste. From William the Conqueror to the World War II D-Day Landing beaches and the UNESCO heritage city centre of Le Havre, Normandy offers plenty of fascinating history and culture.

Normandy is a food lover’s paradise. There are plenty of local specialities to sink your teeth into, from a crisp apple tart to Mortagne black pudding. For a taste of the sea, head to coastal towns such as Trouville and Honfleur for eye-catching seafood platters. As for the region’s world-famous cheeses – including Camembert and Livarot – they are best enjoyed during a picnic at the beach with a fresh crusty baguette and washed down with a local cider or Calvados!

Inland, Normandy’s verdant countryside extends towards the Pays de la Loire and offers a little bit of something for everyone, from cheese and cider to cycling and châteaux. The stretches from the UNESCO-listed Mont-Saint-Michel on the border with Brittany to the stunning chalk cliff formations of the Alabaster coast near Dieppe. Watching the boats going in and out of the harbour while you treat yourself to a steaming bowl of moules mariniere is one of life’s simple, but superb pleasures.

Top things to see in Normandy

Mont-Saint-Michel: One of the most popular attractions in the country, second only to the Eiffel Tower, both the abbey and the bay have held UNESCO World Heritage status since 1979. The iconic sanctuary has been attracting pilgrims for centuries, with vast numbers drawn to the scenic splendour, beautiful medieval buildings and the glory of Saint Michael. For centuries, devotees would risk crossing the bay with strong tides and precarious quick sands to reach this spiritual place. Even today, a stream of around 3 million visitors and pilgrims flock each year to the island its spectacular bay.

Claude Monet’s House and garden: Claude Monet was one of the world’s most influential painters. Known for championing impressionism, he is perhaps most well-known for his massive and mesmerizing paintings of waterlilies. Luckily for us, the very water lilies he painted can be seen in person at Monet’s garden at Giverny. Attached to his home, which is now a museum, the gardens themselves are calm and beautiful and the destination is sure to inspire.

Discover Normandy’s prettiest villages: Normandy has six recognised Plus Beaux Villages, officially the prettiest villages in France. Barfleur, Lyons-la-Foret, Beuvron-en-Auge, Saint-Céneri-le-Gérei, Veules-les-Roses and Le Bec-Hellouin.

Discover Rouen: The historic capital of Normandy sits on the Seine River as it wends its way to the sea from Paris. What makes this city unique is its incredible Gothic architecture coupled with more than 2000 half-timbered medieval street houses that blend effortlessly and its long, turbulent history whose traces can be seen in the present. The monumental, gothic Cathedral of Notre-Dame which the great French artist Claude Monet captured on canvas, mesmerised by its beauty, is quite possibly the most photogenic cathedral in Europe. Every four years there is a fabulous gathering of tall ships in the city for the Rouen Armada.

Bayeux Tapestry: Bayeux still retains much of its medieval charm, so you can spend the afternoon visiting Notre Dame Cathedral and the Bayeux Tapestry that graphically depicts the story of William the Conqueror’s invasion of England in 1066.

Fall in love with Honfleur: This little town with its working port has bucket loads of charisma. Wandering around the harbour and up and down the wiggly cobble stone streets of Honfleur is one of life’s great pleasures. It’s a buzzing, vibrant, colourful and truly enchanting little place that is quaintly charming and full of character despite the high number of tourists.

Top things to do in Normandy

Eat cheese: Follow the Normandy cheese trail and discover sleepy villages, dairy farms and rolling fields – plus taste some of the creamiest, most delectable cheeses in the world.

Visit Etretat: Etretat lies just off the longest French hiking path. It links Le Havre to Le Treport. Soak up the stunning views and if golf’s your bag, get in a round – the golf club of Etretat, founded in 1918, is perched at the top of the cliffs, overlooking the bay. The course is demanding, and the view is superb, especially from hole number 10!

Ogle the art and modern architecture of Le Havre: 80% of Le Havre was destroyed during the Second World War, the city was rebuilt by the architect Auguste Perret with buildings made from reinforced concrete – there’s nowhere else quite like it in France. Over the years more modern buildings have been added making UNESCO-listed Le Havre one of the most architecturally exciting French cities. MUMA in Le Havre was inaugurated in 1961, the André Malraux Museum of Modern Art exhibits one of the largest collections of Impressionist paintings, in France and includes masterpieces by Sisley, Pissaro, Degas and more.

Go to a cider or Calvados tasting: While most of France is known for their wine, Normandy is known for cider and Calvados. Calvados is a delicious brandy liquor made from apples which are grown in the region instead of grapes. Calvados distillation dates to the 1500’s. Take a tasting tour with a family distillery and enjoy not only the fruity flavour of Calvados but also its rich history.

Walk along the beach in Deauville: The beach is lined with 450 colourful umbrellas and hosts everything from horse races to film festivals. Take a stroll along the iconic wooden boardwalk (Les Planches) which dates to 1923. It stretches the entirety of the beach and features 450 Art Deco beach huts adorned with the names or the many actors and directors to have frequented the Deauville American Film Festival over the years.

Head to market: Normandy’s towns and villages host hundreds of markets. Two of the best are in Caen on Friday and Sunday mornings. And while you’re there, don’t miss a visit to the castle ruins, museums and memorials. Dieppe market (Saturday) is also fabulous and was voted favourite market of the French in 2020.

Visit the landing beaches: On June 6, 1944, the beaches of Normandy were the historical theatre of the great military operation, which mobilized an armada of boats and planes, to free France from German occupation. Museums and cemeteries line this coast, from Sword Beach to Ouistreham, Juno Beach to Courseulles-sur-Mer, Gold Beach to Arromanches, Omaha Beach to Colleville-sur-Mer, Utah Beach to Sainte-Marie-du-Mont, and to the Pointe du Hoc in Cricqueville-en Bessin.

Potter around the Perche: an outstanding area of nature, perfect for chillout breaks.

How to get there

By plane: Normandy is close to three international airports – Paris Charles de Gaulle, Paris Orly and Nantes International Airport with daily, with daily flights from destinations all over the world. Normandy itself has four airports mainly for domestic flights. However, Caen-Carpiquet and Deauville Airports also run regular international flights.

By train: Fast TGV services run from Paris to main towns and cities including Rouen, Dieppe, Caen and Bayeux and local TER services cross Normandy.

By ferry: There are ferry ports in Le Havre, Dieppe, Caen-Ouistreham and Cherbourg.

Tourist office website: en.normandie-tourism.fr

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Tons of tall ships in the harbour, azure blue skies, mouth-watering street food, uplifting music, joyful sea shanties, the feel-good factor is off the charts, in a fabulous, historic city – it can only be the Rouen Armada says Janine Marsh.

For ten days the party atmosphere along the Seine in the historic city of Rouen lures millions from around the world to join in the fun that takes place during the Rouen Armada. Held every few years – the next one will be in 2027 – this feel-good event is totally free – and totally fabulous.

Wander along tall ship lined quays where some 2000 sailors from a dozen countries are in port. Soak up the atmosphere, the smell of sizzling barbecues, buzzing bars and restaurants full of smiling punters, the music of the Beatles and the Bee Gees carried on the slight breeze from the river on a scorching sunny day.

This is one of the largest gatherings of tall ships in the world, in one of the greatest ports of France, but it’s also about food, wine music, dancing, street performance, sea shanties and more.

If you like to have a good time, then this event will float your boat!

The Rouen Armada experience

Arriving at Rouen Rive Droite station I was handed a paper sailor’s hat with a red pompom – in France they say if you twiddle a sailor’s pompom it’s lucky! I held on to my hat just in case! Walking to the quaysides of the River Seine that runs through the city, I couldn’t help but notice how many streets and shops were decorated in nautical style. Even in the church of Joan of Arc there was an Armada crossword. The port city of Rouen loves a boat, and Rouen loves its Armada.

There is something wonderfully romantic about tall ships, maybe it’s all those stories of pirates and world discovery books I read as a child, but as these magnificent ships sailed under the monumental Gustave Flaubert Bridge on the first night of the Armada, it was clear that I’m not the only one who loves them.

I climbed aboard the tall ship Joanna Saturna which had arrived from Finland – a 1200km journey of 9 days non-stop from Helsinki to Le Havre. She made an additional stop in Duclair (30 minutes from Rouen by bus) to pick up passengers before joining dozens more tall ships on their journey into the city’s port for the opening night.

Sail the Seine on a tall ship

For the next three hours we sailed serenely along the Seine, past cliffs where we could spot caves that were used in the Middle Ages for the storage of wine and food. A rocky outcrop called “Gargantua’s seat” cleft into the cliffs came into view. Ahead of us a tall ship from Mexico, in fact the tallest ship in town, fired of a round of gun salutes – the Joanna Saturna tooted her very loud horn. On board the Mexican ship a band broke out into a happy Tijuana style tune gaining it a massive round of applause. We couldn’t top that!

A French naval ship sailed to our right and behind, the mast of another tall ship came onto the horizon. It’s an amazing feeling as the water swells and the sun beams down, the rigging creaks and clanks – a timeless sound. All along the side of the river, passing cars tooted a greeting, people were gathered to watch the ships sail by – waving flags, cheering and whistling. A small boat pulled alongside ours with a group of kids shouting “sound the horn, sound the horn”, the captain obliged much to their delight, a long low wail that echoed across the water.

Flags of all nations were proudly displayed all along the river as we floated past small towns and hamlets. I asked the Captain if the journey was as smooth as this the whole way “sure” he said and winked.

As the city came into sight the cheers got louder, crowds thronged the quayside – the Armada had begun. I made my way to the tall ship Thalassa, where I was sleeping that night. She usually serves as a training ship, run by tough salty sea dogs from the Netherlands. All gleaming wood and polished brass. From the deck I watched the fabulous nightly Armada fireworks display.

From morning to midnight, the river was awash with boats floating past these majestic tall ships and getting a great view. Pleasure boats, restaurant boats, lifeboats, eco boats – collecting waste and sustainably disposing of it, there’s a serious message here too. There were boats full of people enjoying chilled beers, wine, music, some have a party atmosphere. After dark the quays throbbed to the sound of music, uplifting and great, great fun.

You can explore the ships during the day and chat to the crews – the Mexican ship was very popular! You need to get up early to see the sailors servicing the ships, painting their hulls and doing their morning exercises.

Don’t miss the Maritime, Fluvial and Harbour Museum of Rouen while you’re here. Right by the Gustave Flaubert Bridge along the river front pop into the marine museum which is run by volunteers to gen up on the history of the port of Rouen. Model makers on site create incredible ships, there are fascinating exhibitions and artefacts, and when I was there members of the International Guild of Knot Tiers’ were demonstrating their skills creating knotted rope art. ww1.musee-maritime-rouen.asso.fr

This is an unmissable event. Enjoy a boat ride, eat, drink and be merry. And sunscreen, take sunscreen!

The next Rouen Armada will take place in June 2027.

Details: armada.org

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Mont-Saint-Michel is a remarkable tidal island located in the Manche department, Normandy. Sitting just off the impressive coastline between Normandy and Brittany, this is one of France’s most impressive sights. The mount’s spectacular Abbey is the crowning glory, perched atop a rocky outcrop in the heart of the bay which provides breath-taking views from all around. Jeremy Flint explores the extraordinary Mont-Saint-Michel and nearby to uncover the secret parts and the must-sees plus what to see and do in the area.

UNESCO-listed Mont-Saint-Michel

One of the most popular attractions in the country, second only to the Eiffel Tower, both the abbey and the bay have held UNESCO World Heritage status since 1979. The iconic sanctuary has been attracting pilgrims for centuries, with vast numbers drawn to the scenic splendour, beautiful buildings and the glory of Saint Michael. For centuries, devotees would risk crossing the bay with strong tides and precarious quicksands to reach this spiritual place. Even today, a stream of around 3 million visitors and pilgrims flock each year to the island its spectacular bay.

Whether you arrive on foot, by bike or by bus along the permanent path that connects the island to the mainland, there are a wealth of things to explore from the authentic, medieval streets to the historic ramparts, the Abbey, and its cloisters.

Stunning architecture

You can’t help but be wowed by the fortified walls and towers of this world-famous landmark that rises up to the clustered buildings of the village. Pass the drawbridge and enjoy a stroll through the Grande Rue (main street) lined with fine hotels, restaurants and shops. Sample the local cuisine at La Mère Poulard (Mother Poulard), which serves omelettes cooked on an open-wood fire, a gastronomic emblem. Developed by Annette Boutiaut Poulard in the 19th century, they are described as ‘the most famous omelettes in the world’ and have been enjoyed by many renowned visitors including Ernest Hemingway, Winston Churchill and even Marilyn Monroe. The Auberge de la Mère Poulard is also a great place to stay on the island.

Visit the village museums that resurrect the history of the site, and explore the hidden walkways round the ramparts for excellent panoramic views. Stop by the 15^th and 16^th century parish church of St Peter, a place of devotion to the Archangel Michael for pilgrims arriving at the mount. Don’t miss the statue of Saint Michael slaying the dragon inside the side chapel. The church provides the perfect oasis to pause and take a break from the hustle and bustle of the Grand Rue before climbing the steep, lung-busting stairways to the Abbey.

The Abbey of Mont-Saint-Michel

The Grand Degré, a narrow staircase of 350 steps leads you to the Abbey entrance. Here you can experience the splendour of the abbey and explore the labyrinth of buildings linked by suspended passageways over three floors. 2023 is a special year that marks the millennium since the Romanesque abbey’s construction in 1023.

Inside the magnificent Gothic-style Benedictine Abbey, the imposing 11^th century nave is an impressive sight with its grand arches, galleries and tall windows. Services are still held here daily (except Mondays) and there are weekend masses.

The west terrace offers a unique view of the spire of the church tower mounted with a gravity-defying, gilded copper statue of Saint Michael and views of the Breton town of Cancale to the west, the cliffs of Normandy to the east and the archipelago of the Chausey Isles (where granite was sourced to build the abbey) out to sea. Here, you can also appreciate the small monastic and village gardens from above.

The walkway continues around a courtyard through the cloisters, small columns create constantly changing views before arriving in the refectory, and it’s here that monks once ate their meals in reverent silence. Finally, you can descend to the underground crypts and their magnificent stone pillars supporting the weight of the church and acknowledge this true architectural marvel.

Tombelaine Islet

Back at the base of the mount, you can walk in the bay up to the Islet of Tombelaine on a guided tour and discover the quicksands and bird life – the islet is a bird reserve and protected breeding ground for gulls and passerines. Alternatively, take a hike along the coastline for the most beautiful views of Mont-Saint-Michel.

Dine at: Restaurant La Ferme St Michel Sample salt marsh lamb and whelk specialities served in the airy, stone-walled farmhouse, Route du Mont-Saint-Michel, La Caserne.

When to visit

June to August is one of the best times to visit with the warmest temperatures in Normandy and pleasant weather but be aware that these are also the busiest months and Mont-Saint-Michel can be very crowded. Another great time to visit is during Spring with the largest tides in Europe surrounding the Mont and you can witness an extraordinary sight as the Mont becomes an island, enveloped by the ocean.

What to see and do nearby:

Avranches

Extend your visit and discover the other delights of the bay and surroundings. In nearby Avranches, there is a Scriptorial museum which guards and preserves the Abbey’s ancient manuscripts which were found in the Abbey treasury. Take some additional time to see Avranches’ amazing architecture including charming churches, the old castle and the majestic town hall.

Dine at: La Toque Aux Vins, a newly refurbished bistro and bar that the locals love for the relaxed ambience and exquisite cuisine, 8 Rue de la Mairie.

Stay at: La Croix d’Or, a charming hotel-restaurant (and former coaching inn) in the centre of Avranches, 83 Rue de la Constitution.

Moidrey Windmill and salt marsh sheep

One of the highlights of the peaceful landscapes around the bay is the Moulin de Moidrey, a stunning Norman windmill, located within 5 kilometres of Mont Saint Michel. Also, inland from Mont Saint Michel you can see sheep graze on the salt marshes at low tide and enjoy this distinctive agricultural practice.

Dine at: the nearby Le Grillon in Pontorson with tasty pancakes and an awesome grill, 37 Rue Couesnon.

Cancale

West of Mont Saint Michel, the headland offers a picturesque coastline dotted with oyster farms and wonderful views where La Pointe du Grouin provides one of the best outlooks to sea and further west towards Saint Malo. Visit the Ferme Marine oyster farm to learn about the history and heritage of oyster farming and sample these fantastic delights of the ocean.

Saint-Malo

The beautiful town of Saint-Malo and its natural harbour are a wonderful place to explore where the ramparts rise proudly above the beaches and port making it a unique sight. Unearth Saint-Malo’s beauty and charm with a walk along the historic walls, visit the Chateau and marvel at the old city views from the lookout towers, then see the wonders of the sea at the aquarium before refuelling at a creperie.

Read more about Saint-Malo in the free to read The Good Life France Magazine.

Visit a farm

Finally, with farming being such an important way of life in the region, seize the opportunity to visit one of the local farms and enjoy their local products. Cara-Meuh farm in Vains is an organic, third generation farm in the bay of Mont Saint Michel that produce delicious products including cheese, cream, butter, milk, eggs, honey, pork, beef and their famous artisanal caramels (made from their very own milk and butter) with different flavours from salted butter to chocolate and apple, a local delicacy of the region. Tour the farm and treat yourself to their goods in the farm shop, besides other local produce.

For more information about visiting Mont Saint Michel and the bay (including parking and entry tickets to the Abbey), times of services in the abbey, and to find out about hotels on the island (which is how Jeremy got to see it like this – empty of visitors!) visit ot-montsaintmichel.com

Jeremy Flint is an award-winning professional photographer and writer specialising in travel, landscape and location photography. His work is published extensively in The Good Life France Magazine, National Geographic Traveller Lonely Planet and Country Life amongst others. He is a five-time finalist in Travel Photographer of the Year, Association of Photographers Discovery Award Winner and National Geographic Traveller Grand Prize Winner.

Have a listen to our Mont-Saint-Michel podcast episode – legends, strange facts and incredible figures…

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Follow the Normandy cheese trail and discover sleepy villages, dairy farms and rolling fields – plus taste some of the creamiest, most delectable cheeses in the world. Gillian Thornton samples and sips her way through cheese and cider country.

In 1962, former French President Charles de Gaulle famously bemoaned the challenges of governing a country ‘with 246 different kinds of cheese’. So the task must be even harder for today’s President. Sixty years on from De Gaulle’s gastronomic analogy, France now lists over 400 varieties, including more than 60 that have been awarded Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) status in France and, more recently the European label, Appellation d’Origine Protegée (AOP).

Follow the Normandy cheese trail

French cheeses come in all shapes, sizes and strengths, lovingly produced on both artisan and industrial scale from the milk of cows, goats and even sheep. But whilst some are appreciated only in their local area, one French cheese is famous throughout the world. One of four AOC cheeses to come from the lush farmland of Normandy, Camembert is instantly recognisable with its distinctive circular shape, wooden box and colourful label.

Camembert

Normandy’s magnificent coastline is famous for its top quality seafood but turn your back on the sea and the bocage landscape of cattle meadows and apple orchards combine to produce the perfect cheese course, not to mention a range of liquid accompaniments to carry you from apéro to digestif. Even better, you can always find someone willing to show you how these signature products are made and to sell you their produce direct from source – just ask at any local tourist office or go to normandie.tourisme.fr for inspiration.

Bocage doesn’t get much more beautiful than in the Pays d’Auge which lies east of Caen, ducal HQ for William of Normandy in the 11^th century and the last resting place of this illegitimate son who took England’s top job in 1066 as King William I. Think small, wooded valleys and rich pastures lined with thick hedgerows, spring trees laden with apple blossom, and traditional half-timbered houses. This is inland Normandy at its most picturesque with some of the most fetching cattle you’ll see anywhere – brown and white with uniform brown eye patches.

Camembert’s History

Spread out around the town of Lisieux, the Pays d’Auge is the birthplace of traditional Camembert, invented by farmer’s wife Marie Harel. There’s a statue of her – and also one of a very fine cow – in the small town of Vimoutiers, but her famous cheese was created at the Manoir de Beaumoncel in the nearby hamlet of Camembert in 1791.

A priest fleeing from revolutionaries in his native area of Brie shared a cheese manufacturing secret with Madame Harel, who went on to create the cheese we know today. During the First World War, large quantities were sent to French troops on the Western Front to boost morale, helping to turn Camembert into a national symbol. In 1983, authentic Camembert de Normandie was given protected status.

Discover the full story at Maison du Camembert in the heart of the tiny village which includes a visit to the adjacent Clos de Beaumoncel cheese factory. Here you can look through glass to see how Normandy milk is transformed into traditional handmade Camembert – up to 6000 organic and AOP/PDO cheeses per week.

And of course the visit ends with a comparative tasting of artisan and industrially made Camembert in the on-site shop. I lingered too over the display of colourful pictorial labels commemorating various anniversaries of the D-Day Landings in 1944. Each one is a mini work of art which graphically illustrates the attraction of taking up tyrosemiophilia as a hobby. Cheese label collecting to you and me! www.maisonducamembert.com

Livarot

Camembert nestles in the Orne department and a handy sign at the entrance to the village points the way to Normandy’s other AOC cheeses. Just 15km to the north in the department of Calvados is Livarot-Pays-d-Auge, home town of Livarot with its orange rind and powerful flavour. Don’t be surprised if you hear someone ask for a wedge of ‘Colonel’ – Livarot’s nickname thanks to the five ‘military’ stripes of reed or paper around the circumference.

Pont-L’Evèque

Follow the Normandy cheese trail and head north again and 54km from Camembert, nestles between Lisieux and Deauville, still within the Pays d’Auge area of Calvados. Square or rectangular in shape, its eponymous mild cheese is covered with a rind that ranges in colour from golden yellow to orange.

Neufchatel

For Normandy’s fourth AOP cheese, you need to cross the river Seine to Neufchâtel-en-Bray in the department of Seine-Maritime, 171 km from Camembert. Covered in a thin white edible layer, Neufchâtel is a favourite for romantic dinners thanks to its traditional heart-shape that harks back to the Middle Ages when local girls would offer their cheeses to occupying English troops during the Hundred Years War.

Cider of Normandy

Few drinks go better with Normandy’s flavourful cheeses than a glass of local dry cider or – for the drivers – farm-produced apple juice. Normandy’s apple orchards stretch over a wide area, but the self-drive Route du Cidre winds its way through the heartland of the AOC Cidre du Pays d’Auge production area, linking the villages of Cambremer and Bonnebosq with the postcard-pretty community of Beuvron-en Auge, classified amongst Les Plus Beaux Villages de France.

Created in 1974, the Cambremer Cider Route was the first trail in France to be launched by producers keen to promote the quality of their products and their warm hospitality. Today you will find almost 20 ‘Cru de Cambremer’ producers along the route, all open to visitors – find full details, including opening hours, on www.routeducidre.com.

Some farms only produce cider; others apple juice, cider jelly, and even cheese. Look out too for Pommeau AOC de Normandie, a delicious apple aperitif made from three-parts pressed apples – or must – to one part Calvados, the area’s famous apple spirit.  And whilst Calvados improves with age – if you can resist opening it, of course – young Calvados works particularly well in cocktails.

Normandy’s jewels

The Pays d’Auge is a delight for walkers with its gentle countryside, timber-framed manor houses, and pretty churches, as well as small stud farms producing the top quality horses for which Normandy is famous. There are surprises too. Bonnesbosq has named its sports ground after a famous Hollywood actor who owned a mansion in the neighbourhood – none other than Yul Brynner, star of 1956 movie The King and I and, three years later, The Magnificent Seven. And close to Cambremer stands the bijou medieval castle of Crèvecoeur-en-Auge, which hosts exhibitions and ‘living history’ re-enactments during the summer months.

Then there’s Beuvron-en-Auge, less than 20 minutes’ drive from the seaside resort of Cabourg on the Côte Fleurie. Don’t miss it, but do try to visit outside of peak times, especially in summer, when its many restaurants and tempting antique shops are bustling with visitors. Expect crowds too during the cider festival in late October. But this elite Plus Beau Village is a gem with its broad square, covered market and craft workshops, all surrounded by tranquil countryside.

Small wonder that it too has attracted a celebrity resident, world-famous British artist David Hockney who moved close to the village in 2019. Inspired by the light of Norman skies and the arrival of spring in the Pays d’Auge, Hockney produced a 90-metre frieze from scenes ‘painted’ on an iPad and inspired by the Bayeux Tapestry. First displayed at Salts Mill near Bradford in his native Yorkshire, A Year in Normandie has also been exhibited in Paris and most recently at Bayeux, a glorious tribute to this tranquil corner of Norman countryside.

By Gillian Thornton, one of the UK’s leading travel writers and a regular writer for The Good Life France Magazine and website.

Craving a cheesy feast? Try this boozy baked Camembert recipe to dip, dunk and dollop chunks of bread in, crackers, or a very easy to make tarte de soleil which will give this dish a whole load of wow factor appeal!

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Nestled in Normandy’s deep south, the Perche Regional Nature Park offers tranquil forests, bijou communities, and some seriously impressive horsepower. Gillian Thornton steps down a gear.

Pottering around the Perche

Ask me to describe my perfect destination for a spot of rest and relaxation and I’ll usually plump for rolling countryside, historic villages, and cosy restaurants. Add in a few independent shops or markets for some gentle retail therapy and you’ve almost ticked all my boxes. Only thing missing would be some kind of animal content, preferably with an activity attached.

So as I jolt happily down a woodland track in a horse-drawn open carriage, I have to say that the Perche Regional Natural Park (PNR) offers everything I need for the perfect chill-out break. Located in the south-east corner of Normandy, the Perche is just 140km from Paris, making it a popular weekend destination for city dwellers as well as for cross-Channel visitors.

Percheron horses

Most of the park lies within the department of Orne, spilling over into the Centre region east of Nogent-le-Rotrou, and its protected status covers both natural scenery and built landscape, heritage sites and rural traditions. Amongst those traditions is the Percheron heavy horse, believed to date back to the 11^th century when Rotrou, Count of the Perche, brought Arabian stallions back from the First Crusade and crossed them with local heavy horses.

Usually grey, but occasionally black, Percherons are good-natured, gentle, and ideally suited to working the forests and small hedge-lined fields or bocage of southern Normandy. Once a common sight on farms throughout the area, their numbers declined sharply as agriculture became increasingly mechanised between the wars.  But now, thanks to a group of dedicated enthusiasts, breeding is steadily on the up.

Since the early 1990s, Percheron stallions imported from America have been bred with French mares to produce two main types – a draught horse used for farming and hauling timber, and a lighter animal used for riding, driving and competitions. As someone who has ridden all my life but rarely experienced carriage driving, I booked a two-hour excursion from the Ferme de l’Absoudière in Cordon for a taste of traditional horsepower. And what power! Seated up beside the driver, I watch two sets of powerful hindquarters sway rhythmically to the sound of jangling harness as we trot down country lanes and forest tracks. It’s a magical if slightly bumpy way to travel!

The best of rural Normandy

But horsepower is just one way to explore the Perche. There’s a wealth of inspiration at the Maison du Parc, administrative centre and visitor facility for the Regional Nature Park which stands in the grounds of the Manoir du Courboyer, a 15^th century turreted manor house a short drive from Cordon at Nocé. Meet other local livestock breeds, buy artisan products, and sample regional farm produce such as cider, honey and cheese.

This rural corner of Normandy is bisected by the GR22 and GR35, two Grande Randonnée long distance hiking trails, as well as the Chemin de Chartres leading to Mont-Saint-Michel. Or try the 220km Tour des Collines du Perche which splits neatly into eight segments for walkers and four for cycle tourists. Too energetic? Then follow one of nine tranquil driving routes that include Forests and Abbeys, Chateaux and Lakes, and Valleys and Mills.

The Perche may be a rural area of farmland and forest, but it also boasts a long industrial heritage. The woods provided charcoal, the rivers powered mills and foundries, and the ground yielded raw materials of iron and clay. Watch out for the label Savoir-faire du Parc Naturel Régional du Perche to identify crafts people still using local materials.

Nothing in the Perche proves to be much more than an hour from my base at the delightful Hôtel du Tribunal at Mortagne-au-Perche, a buzzing market town of just 4,500 inhabitants that was once the administrative centre for the Counts of Perche. Today the medieval rampart walls have mostly gone but the historic streets are still dotted with fine buildings, not to mention 27 sundials. Follow the numbered panels on the Circuit du Patrimoine and prepare for some surprises.

The modern medical facility, for instance, has retained the exquisite cloister of a 16^th century convent. Take in the wooden roof timbers shaped like an upturned boat before heading inside the vast painted chapel. Enjoy the panoramic countryside views from the public gardens behind the Town Hall and maybe sample the town’s signature foodie treat – black pudding. Every producer has his own secret recipe. The Saturday morning market is also loaded with local foodie temptation, an atmospheric way to absorb the area’s gastronomic traditions.

A land of giant trees

The Perche forests are full of impressive giant trees – particularly oak and beech – but equally arresting are the lofty twin towers of the Chappelle de Montligeon, built between 1896 and 1911 by parish priest Abbé Buguet. His aim was to deliver souls left in purgatory and promote social justice and whilst the basilica is today a place of pilgrimage, it is also a business centre based on the printing works that he founded. Pop inside to admire the stained-glass windows.

Local commerce is largely small scale. Expect small, artisan businesses such as antique dealers and galleries, bookshops, woodworkers, and furniture restorers, not to mention family-run restaurants and tea rooms. Outside Mortagne-au-Perche, I find Chez Nous Campagne, where Cécile Schmitt combines a boutique selling interior décor items with a tearoom and gîte business, all in one tempting package.

And there is more retail temptation in Bellême, former capital of the Perche, and in nearby La Perrière. Both have been labelled Petites Cités de Caractère by the Orne department along with Longny-au-Perche. Gifts to take home? Try La Savonnerie de La Chappelle in Bellême for soaps, candles, and a whole lot more, and don’t miss Chocolaterie Bataille, where artisan chocolate-maker Christophe Henninger creates seasonal chocolates for every occasion. In La Perrière, browse for local produce, antiques, and dried flowers at Monteloup, a stylish boutique with three chambre d’hôte bedrooms upstairs run by antique dealer Jérôme and expert florist Gil.

Nogent-le-Rotrou

Largest town in the Perche is Nogent-le-Rotrou, just over the regional border in the department of Eure-et-Loir. Classified amongst Michelin’s 100 Plus Beaux Détours de France, this historic community of fewer than 10,000 people stands in the Huisne valley, dominated by Saint-Jean Castle which was once home to – you guessed it – the Counts of Perche. Stroll through the reconstructed medieval and Renaissance gardens around the castle and Bellême’s Belle Epoque public gardens, just two of many floral plots that welcome visitors throughout the Perche.

Thiron Abbey

Head east from Nogent to visit Thiron-Gardais, home to Thiron Abbey.  Founded in the 12^th century, the buildings were largely destroyed after the Revolution but the abbey itself still acts as the parish church and access to the thematic gardens is free. Or head west, back towards Bellême to visit the Ecomusée du Perche within the ancient walls of the 11^th century priory of Sainte-Gauburge at Saint-Cyr-la-Rosière.

Whichever way you turn, the Perche is a delight for anyone who wants to step down a gear and relax amongst tranquil countryside and atmospheric villages. A breath of fresh air whichever way you look at it!

Useful websites:

www.normandie-tourisme.fr
www.parc-naturel-perche.fr/en
www.ornetourisme.com

By Gillian Thornton, one of the UK’s leading travel writers.

This article was first published in The Good Life France Magazine

All rights reserved. This article may not be published, broadcast, rewritten (including translated) or redistributed without written permission.

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Packed with medieval history but with a buzzing contemporary vibe, Normandy’s regional capital is a stunning destination for a city break. Easily reached by car from the Channel ports, by train from Paris, and by river cruise along the Seine, it’s many attractions are matched by the glorious surrounding area.

Saint-Maclou

It’s not every day that you sit down to dinner in a medieval cemetery. But then Rouen’s Aître Saint-Maclou is no ordinary burial ground. Surrounded by an ossuary gallery – a repository for storing bones – this extraordinarily tranquil spot is one of just four to survive in France. And it’s a must-see for any visitor to this captivating city.

Far from being macabre, the Aître Saint-Maclou is a classic example of how Rouen uses its rich history to educate, entertain and enthuse 21^st century visitors. And when your city has connections to Joan of Arc and Gustave Flaubert, Claude Monet and the Impressionist artists, you have plenty of material to work with.

Rouen was ravaged by the Black Death in the mid-14^th century.  Already weakened by the ongoing battles with England in what came to be called The Hundred Years War, the city struggled to keep pace with the mortality rate. The Aître Saint-Maclou helped solve the problem. First as a mass grave, then with the addition of a galleried ossuary where bones could be stored in the roof trusses.

Atmospheric half-timbered galleries

Street children and beggars began to congregate here and traders set up fruit stalls. In 1778, the Aître closed as a cemetery and morphed into a location for charity-run schools. Walk through the galleries today with their ornate carved columns and you can almost hear the shouts of Rouen’s poor children at play. Come back in the evening when the site is closed to casual visitors to dine at Café Hamlet within those atmospheric half-timbered galleries.

Saint-Maclou was one of many pleasant surprises when I made a long overdue return to Rouen as part of a touring holiday by car. The Radisson Blu Centre proved a great base with its underground car park and popular restaurant. It’s easily accessed off the perimeter road and an easy walk to the historic centre through a network of pedestrian streets.

Rouen Cathedral

I clearly remembered the flamboyant carved façade of the city’s cathedral. Or did it just seem familiar from some 30 paintings made by Claude Monet in differing lights? Many were painted from an upstairs room in the former House of Exchequer. It’s now the Tourist Information Office – at the corner of the pedestrianised square in front of this towering Gothic monument.

Take advantage of one of the free telescopes around the square for a close up view of the west front that Monet would surely have envied. Then head inside to see a monument to English king Richard the Lionheart. His body lies in the Plantagenet necropolis at Fontevraud, but his heart is buried here in Rouen.

Medieval buildings and historic landmarks

The half-timbered buildings were certainly familiar to me in the streets behind the cathedral that lead to the Church of Saint-Maclou. But twenty years on from my last visit, they seemed brighter and better maintained, clearly the result of ongoing restoration. I walked beneath the colourful facades of 14^th century houses. Indulged in a scrumptious cake at Dame Cakes by the cathedral. And wandered through the lofty interior of Saint-Ouen Church.

Like many French cities, Rouen is dotted with churches. Some are big, some small, and some utterly unique like the Joan of Arc church in the Place du Vieux Marché. A peasant girl from the Vosges, Joan claimed that God had instructed her to support Charles, heir to the French throne, against the English. But she was captured by their allies, the Burgundians. She was tried in the Archbishop’s Palace at Rouen and condemned to death.

Joan was burnt at the stake in the Old Market Place in 1431. Today a modern church built in 1979 stands next to the covered market at the place where she breathed her last. Unprepossessing from the outside, the church is a different story inside. It is dappled with colour from a multi-coloured wall of brilliant medieval stained glass.

Discover Joan’s dramatic story at the immersive experience that is the Historial Jeanne d’Arc. A digital journey through a second trial that took place here in 1456 in the very spot where she was tried the first time. Headsets provide the commentary in English from an array of ‘talking heads.’ As you move from room to room, you really get the feeling that you are in on the decision that was made to pardon the ‘Maid of Orleans’. Absorbing and instructive with no previous Joan knowledge necessary.

Museums and monuments

Wander the streets to take in other monuments. You can’t miss the Gros Horloge, an enormous 14^th century clock. It has one of the oldest clock mechanisms in Europe. La Maison Sublime is the oldest Jewish monument in France. Walk or cycle along the quaysides beside the Seine. Bowse Rouen’s rich offering of high street retailers and specialist boutiques, liberally dotted with tempting places to eat and drink.

But leave time too for some of the city’s eight free museums. I loved the eclectic mix on display in the Antiquities Museum. It includes a Roman mosaic, an Egyptian mummy and Greek pottery. And the Natural History Museum boasts one of the most diverse collections in France.

But top slot for me goes to the Impressionist collection within the Fine Arts Museum. Works by Monet, of course, but Pissarro, Renoir and Sisley too, who all painted in the city and surrounding area. One of the most important Impressionist collections outside Paris, it is a highlight of one of France’s most delightful cities.

Further information from www.rouentourisme.com

Beyond the city centre

A few days at your disposal? Follow the meanders of the Seine to east and west, by car or maybe by bike. Heading east, the Route des Abbayes links ecclesiastical gems such as the Abbey of Saint-Pierre de Jumièges. 30 km from the city centre it hosts contemporary art exhibitions amongst the ruins. And Saint-Georges de Boscherville has lovely terraced abbey gardens. And buy seasonal fruit, jams and jellies along the Route des Fruits between Duclair and Notre-Dame de Bliquetuit. Here the microclimate favours all manner of orchard fruits.

Head east for the ruins of Château Gaillard. The strategic fortress was built by Richard the Lionheart on a hilltop beside the Seine at Les Andeleys, 40 km from Rouen. Another 30 km brings you to Giverny. Here you can visit the legendary house and garden of Impressionist supremo Claude Monet. Walk amongst the flower beds and spend time in the house he shared with his wife and children. Stroll around the famous lily pond that featured in so many vast canvasses painted towards the end of his long life. Try to visit early or late in the day, or outside peak season, to enjoy this magical plot without the international crowds.

For a different kind of Norman countryside, drive east from Rouen for 35 km. Pass through a glorious beech forest to Lyons-la-Forêt, an enchanting village of half-timbered and brick houses. It is deservedly classified amongst Les Plus Beaux Villages de France. Find out more at www.lyons-andelle-tourisme.com

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Ouistreham in the apple-growing department of Calvados in Normandy, is steeped in history and has a jolly seaside air to it. It’s a great place to stroll with a long promenade, a fabulous fish market and a charming town.

Ouistreham’s Riva-Bella beach is a listed seaside resort known as the ‘ Pearl of the Côte de Nacre’ (mother of pearl). It has an air of yesteryear with its endless stretch of sandy beaches along the English Channel, beautiful Belle Epoque and Art Deco villas, little wooden bathing cabins and gently sloping beach.

A historic seaside town

Made popular by Parisians at the end of the 19^th century with the train journey taking just 6 hours, it took its name from the first beautiful villa built there. In 1866 a Monsieur Longpré built a house at no. 53 rue Pasteur, he called it Belle Rive. When his friend, a painter, came to stay, he found the sunsets on the coast were as beautiful as those he had seen on his travels in Italy and he nicknamed the villa ‘Riva Bella’.

Many more architecturally stunning houses were built here (if you play Sims World, you might spot a Ouistreham villa on the vacation home list!). It reminds me of its glamorous neighbour Deauville though Ouistreham is smaller, more tranquil and less celebrated. It does though, like Deauville, have a casino. It’s a great base if you’re visiting this area of Normandy as well as an ideal weekend getaway. It also makes for a great day out if you’re in nearby Caen.

What to see in Ouistreham

Ouistreham is a town made for strolling. Breathing in the fresh air, taking in the sights – it’s as invigorating as it’s interesting. The seaside walkway from Lion-sur-Mer to Hermanville-sur-Mer, follows the route of the Via Turonensi, part of the  Santiago de Compostela. The walk is lined with many lovely houses dating from the Second Empire – the regime of Napoleon III, whose legacy is also present in the canal he commissioned which connects Caen marina to Ouistreham.

There are fabulous views from Ouistreham Lighthouse if you climb the 171 granite steps to the top. Look out over Ouistreham’s bijou ferry port, and on a clear day you can see as far as Mont-Saint-Michel. You’ll also have panoramic views over the coastline and historic Sword Beach, the most easterly of the D-Day landing beaches and the only beach where French forces took part on 6 June 1944, led by Commando Philippe Kieffer.

Historic sites

Traces of the past can be seen in many places in and around Ouistreham. The famous Pegasus Bridge is just 10 minutes away by car. Memorials abound, including one in honour of Piper Bill Millin, the soldier who landed on Sword Beach playing the bagpipes. Le Grand Bunker, a former German command post is now a fascinating museum and listed historic monument.

The Musée du Debarquement no. 4 (No. 4 Commando Museum) preserves the memory of the 1st Battalion of Naval Fusiliers. It was set up by Commander Philippe Kieffer which, incorporated in the British No 4 Commando, was the only French unit to take part in the Normandy landings. The Hillman Site was one of the biggest German command posts during WWII. In the summer months, ‘Friends of the Suffolk Regiment’ Association are on site to tell stories of the past. It’s an engaging place to visit – especially for history lovers.

Tales of the past and markets

Take an audio guided tour called La Délicate – Ouistreham. It’s an unusual format – the guide is contained in an umbrella! The tour takes in the beaches and streets of Ouistreham. It tells the history of the town through stories and memories of those who lived here. Or take a ride! There are several cycle routes along the canal to Caen, including the route of the Vélo Francette which begins in La Rochelle and ends in Ouistreham.

A daily fish market is held in Ouistreham. Friendly stall holders pile up the days haul including the most delicious scallops – which this area is famous for. Enjoy the freshest fish dishes in the many restaurants and brasseries, washed down with local cider. And polish it off with ice cream and locally made salted caramel. Try La Table d’Hotes  where Chef Yoann serves creative, seasonal dishes. Or  push the boat out at La Voile Blanche overlooking the sea.

This is also a great area for nature lovers. To the east of Ouistreham Riva-Bella, is the Pointe du Siege and Orne estuary, the largest nature area in Calvados. Dunes, marshes, salt meadows and forests are home to many wild birds and seals.

Info: Tourist office website

How to get there: Caen ferry port is in Ouistreham (15km from Caen) and ferries run from/to Portsmouth. The nearest train station is Caen and buses run regularly between the two towns.

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The Alabaster Coast of Normandy in northern France made a big impact on the Impressionist painters. Gillian Thornton took a scenic coastal drive to find out why.

Stretching from Le Tréport in the north to Le Havre in the south, the dramatic coastline of Seine-Maritime earns its name – the Côte d’Albâtre – from the towering white chalk cliffs that dominate the undulating shoreline. The Impressionists loved a chalk cliff so as a big fan of their work, I’ve come to see for myself the landscapes they loved.

Le Treport

Heading down by car from Calais, I cross from the Hauts-de-France region into Normandy at Le Tréport on the Bresle estuary. Walk the bustling quayside and relax on the beach. Don’t miss the funicular up the chalk cliffs to enjoy sweeping views over coast and countryside. I’m no painter but already I can understand why artists are captivated by the big skies and ever-changing light here.

Eu

Don’t leave Le Tréport without taking a mini-detour to Eu, a small inland town of just 7,000 residents. Eu’s chateau was a favourite home of France’s last king, Louis Philippe. It’s here that Queen Victoria and Prince Albert stayed in 1843 for the signing of the first Entente Cordiale, a diplomatic agreement between France and Great Britain. Louis-Philippe lived his final years in exile in England after being forced to abdicate in 1848. However his beautifully restored Norman mansion still boasts exquisite parquet floors, a priceless art collection, and extensive gardens. Nor was Victoria the only English monarch to make her mark on Eu. William of Normandy married Matilda of Flanders here in the Cathedral of Notre Dame, some 15 years before they became King and Queen of England in 1066.

Dieppe

Back on the coast road, I stop in the bustling fishing port of Dieppe. Its deep water harbour is protected by those signature white cliffs. France’s first ever seaside resort, Dieppe became popular with Parisians from 1822. This got it the attention of Impressionists such as Camille Pissaro who painted the inner harbour in 1902. Look out for reproductions of Impressionist paintings all along the Alabaster Coast in the exact places where the artists placed their easels.

Today Dieppe is classified as a French Art and History Town. , I stop to learn about its seafaring and trading traditions, as well as its Impressionist connections at the museum in the hilltop castle. Just west of Dieppe is Varengeville-sur-Mer. Here you’ll find the 12^th century church of St Valery, renowned for its coastal views and sailors’ cemetery. Master Impressionist Claude Monet painted the exterior of St Valery from many angles, but look inside too. The Tree of Jesse stained glass window is the work of Georges Braque who died in 1963 and is buried in the churchyard.

Veules-les-Roses

For a very small place, Veules-les-Roses packs a pretty picturesque punch. There are period cottages and ancient watermills, seaside villas and a sandy beach. And there are more clues in the name. Nestled in the wooded valley through which La Veules, France’s shortest river, runs, the narrow streets are splashed with the colour of roses of every hue during the summer months.

Victor Hugo was a big fan of the village, coming here regularly in the late 19^th century. One hundred and fifty years later, Veules-les-Roses is still popular. It’s a gem of the Alabaster Coast and the only community in the Seine-Maritime department of Normandy that is classified amongst the Plus Beaux Villages de France.

Fécamp

Beyond Veules-les-Roses, bustling with visitors on market day, I find another Valery, the pretty port of St-Valery-en-Caux with its small harbour nestled between high chalk cliffs. Then it’s on to the fishing port of Fécamp. Hardy fishermen in centuries past set off from Fécamp and Dieppe to fish for cod off Newfoundland. Discover their story at the excellent Fisheries Museum, housed in a converted fish-smoking and packing building beside the harbour.

There are circular views from the seventh floor roof terrace. You’ll get a tantalising glimpse of the extraordinary Benedictine Palace in the heart of the old town. Benedictine liqueur was reputedly created in the 16^th century by a Benedictine monk named Dom Bernado Vincelli, using a secret mix of 27 plants and spices.

The formula was lost in the French Revolution. But in 1863, local wine merchant Alexandre Le Grand found the recipe! He recreated the drink, and commissioned a flamboyant turreted mansion in its honour. A combination of museum and art gallery, it holds the distinction of being the world’s only distillery for Benedictine liqueur.

Le Grand’s art collection spans sacred to modern art and is as eclectic as the building he commissioned.

Etretat

Every new coastal view reminds me why the Impressionist painters were so enamoured of Normandy’s light and landscape. But the place I most want to see with my own eyes is Etretat with its famous rock arch attached to the Aval cliff. I’m thrilled to catch a distant view over a sunset aperitif in the garden of the Domaine de Saint-Clair hotel just outside town. However I’m gutted next morning to wake to thick sea mist. Despite the June heatwave, Monet’s iconic subject is barely visible, even from the beach.

But after my initial disappointment I console myself with the thought that Monet loved to capture changing weather conditions. If I look on this as a Moody Monet Moment, 50 Shades of Grey suddenly takes on a very different connotation!

As the sun burns off the morning mist, I head up to the Amont cliff to visit the magical Etretat Gardens. This extraordinary topiary garden includes – no surprise – a reproduction in wicker of Monet at work, complete with palette and easel.

Le Havre

My final stop on the Alabaster Coast is somewhere I’ve never really wanted to go, but feel I really should. Le Havre. This busy commercial port at the mouth of the Seine was bombed to near oblivion during World War II, leaving 80,000 homeless. Little remains of the original town. It was also the accidental birthplace of Impressionism in 1872 when Claude Monet painted a shadowy picture entitled ‘Impression. Sunrise’, dubbed by a disparaging art critic as Impressionism.

Thanks to the vision of celebrated architect August Perret and his team, Le Havre was rebuilt in the 1950s with broad avenues, public open spaces, and concrete apartment blocks. But despite the city’s UNESCO World Heritage status, I’ve never had any great desire to see it. Big mistake. The innovative period design turns out to be far more attractive than I imagined. Don’t miss the church of St Joseph, Perret’s masterpiece, nor the Perret Show Flat, full of 1950’s nostalgia.

But the real treat for me is MuMa – the Museum of Modern Art André Malrau. It houses the second-largest Impressionist collection outside Paris. The young Monet was encouraged by established artist Eugène Boudin from nearby Honfleur, widely considered as the ‘master of skies’ for his seascapes with racing clouds and wide horizons. Boudin never considered himself an Impressionist but he takes his rightful place here in Le Havre’s glorious quayside museum alongside Monet and his contemporaries.

Thanks to those pioneer painters, art lovers all over the world have discovered the beauty of Normandy’s Alabaster Coast. See it with your own eyes however, and you might just find yourself reaching for the paintbox!

Getting there

Sail direct to Normandy with DFDS (Newhaven-Dieppe) and Brittany Ferries (Portsmouth to Le Havre and Caen-Ouistreham. Le Havre is just over 2 hours by train from Paris St Lazare. For visitor information, see www.seine-maritime-tourism.com

Gillian Thornton is a writer who specialises in France and lifestyle.

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Normandy spreads over a sizeable chunk of northern France. And, with enough sights and activities to keep even the pickiest tourist happy for weeks, how do you choose what to see?

We asked Peter Perantonakis who lives in Normandy and runs tours for TripUSAFrance for his top Normandy must-sees.

Mont Saint-Michel

Mont Saint Michel is easily my favourite place in France and possibly the most inspiring place I have ever visited. An island when the tides come in, Mont Saint-Michel was originally built in 709 AD after Saint Michael the Archangel appeared to a Bishop and commanded a church to be built. It was added to continuously from the 11th to the 15th centuries and has everything you could wish for in an abbey or a castle. The entire “island” is completely covered by small shops, cobbled streets, and breath-taking views, all winding up to the impressive Gothic monastery at its heart. The soaring spires and beautiful stonework make you feel as if you’ve stepped back to medieval times.

Monet’s Garden

Claude Monet was one of the world’s most influential painters. Known for championing impressionism, he is perhaps most well-known for his massive and mesmerizing paintings of waterlilies. Luckily for us, the very water lilies he painted can be seen in person at Monet’s garden at Giverny. Attached to his home, which is now a museum, the gardens themselves are calm and beautiful and the destination is sure to inspire.

Bayeux

Bayeux is one of the best places to stay in Normandy. It is a charming town that retained its old architecture by closely escaping destruction as the Allied bombing of the city was called off at the last minute and it became the first liberated city of France during the D-Day invasions. It boasts historic buildings, streets littered with local shops and restaurants and a magnificent Cathedral.  And you can’t miss the Bayeux tapestry. It’s 230 feet (70 M) long and is over 940 years old. There are 50 scenes hand embroidered on it and it is widely renowned as both an impressive piece of art and an important piece of history.

Etretat

Etretat links Le Havre to Le Treport on the coast. Famous for its white limestone cliffs, a scene that captured the imagination of some of the great impressionist artists such as Claude Monet, Boudin and Courbet.

Cathedral of Rouen

The Rouen Cathedral is one of the best things to see in Normandy for anyone who loves Gothic architecture, or architecture in general. Built in the late 12th through early 16th centuries, the cathedral boasts the tallest church tower in France and some truly stunning stained glass. The intricate stonework and soaring ceilings are sure to inspire a sense of awe and send you home with some great pictures.

Seafood in Dieppe

Normandy is famous for its seafood and one of the best places to eat it is Dieppe, founded in 1030 and famous for its scallops. There’s also a fabulous market, voted favourite market of the French.

Visit a market

Normandy’s towns and villages host hundreds of markets. Two of the best are in Caen on Friday and Sunday mornings. And while you’re there, don’t miss a visit to the castle ruins, museums and memorials.

Remember the lost at the American Cemetery of D-Day Beach

The American storming of the beaches on D-Day toward the end of WWII played a major role in the outcome of the war. Over 9,000 service men and women, many of whom who died in the D-Day landings, are buried in the cemetery. An additional 1,557 names of missing service members are carved into a memorial. The cemetery is both beautiful and harrowing with row after row of white crosses showing the cost of war. Taking time to visit the cemetery is a profound way to honour those who died defending the cause of freedom.

Go to a Calvados tasting

While most of France is known for their wine, Normandy is known for Calvados. Calvados is a delicious brandy liquor made from apples which are grown in the region instead of grapes. There is a fondness throughout France for this special drink. Calvados distillation dates to the 1500’s and is a cultural staple of Normandy, along with cider. Arranging a tour with a family distillery will ensure you taste not only the fruity flavour of Calvados but also its rich history.

Go to a Cheese factory to taste some Camembert

Anyone who loves cheese has surely heard of Camembert, and then immediately began craving its creamy smooth texture and unique taste. Visit the birthplace of this amazing cheese and, if you really want to try it at its best, you owe it to yourself to go to a cheese tasting. Still not convinced? If you do a cheese tasting you’ll get to try not only Camembert but also a ton of other French cheese while in France.

Walk along the beach in Deauville

If you’re looking for a day in the sun or a romantic evening Deauville beach is sure to impress. With its colourful umbrellas and sparkling casino, the beach hosts everything from horse races to film festivals. Take a stroll along the iconic boardwalk or just sit and watch the waves. Either way, Deauville will make you feel like a million bucks.

Le Havre

All but destroyed during WWII, Le Havre built back in a modern and truly unique way. A major freight docks just across the mouth of the Seine, the architecture is astonishing.

Visit the Beaux Arts museum of Rouen

Housing an impressive renaissance collection and a beautiful sculpture garden, the Beaux Arts museum holds some truly stunning pieces. Boasting works from every school of art from the 15th to the 21st century, the collection is stunning and frequently loaned out to other museums. The vast range of styles means that whether your taste is medieval or modern, something will speak to you. Whether you’re looking to spend an afternoon or a whole day, the Beaux Arts museum will satisfy your inner artist.

Discover Normandy’s prettiest villages

Normandy has six recognised Plus Beaux Villages, officially the prettiest villages in France. Barfleur, Lyons-la-Foret, Beuvron-en-Auge, Saint-Céneri-le-Gérei, Veules-les-Roses and Le Bec-Hellouin.

Wander around the Honfleur Port and Downtown

Honfleur is a historic city with a picture-perfect port. The facades of the homes stacked along the harbour have been the inspiration for many famous painters including Monet. In fact, the play of light and colour on the water is so beautiful that it’s here that the Honfleur School helped launch the Impressionist movement. The city itself has several museums and a beautiful historic feel. Completing your trip to Honfleur with a dinner in a local cafe is the perfect conclusion to a relaxing day.

Take an 8 day tour of Normandy with TripUSAFrance to experience the very best of this exquisite region.

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