The Rouen Armada – all you need to know

Tons of tall ships in the harbour, azure blue skies, mouth-watering street food, uplifting music, joyful sea shanties, the feel-good factor is off the charts, in a fabulous, historic city – it can only be the Rouen Armada says Janine Marsh.

For ten days the party atmosphere along the Seine in the historic city of Rouen lures millions from around the world to join in the fun that takes place during the Rouen Armada. Held every few years – the next one will be in 2027 – this feel-good event is totally free – and totally fabulous.

Wander along tall ship lined quays where some 2000 sailors from a dozen countries are in port. Soak up the atmosphere, the smell of sizzling barbecues, buzzing bars and restaurants full of smiling punters, the music of the Beatles and the Bee Gees carried on the slight breeze from the river on a scorching sunny day.

This is one of the largest gatherings of tall ships in the world, in one of the greatest ports of France, but it’s also about food, wine music, dancing, street performance, sea shanties and more.

If you like to have a good time, then this event will float your boat!

The Rouen Armada experience

Arriving at Rouen Rive Droite station I was handed a paper sailor’s hat with a red pompom – in France they say if you twiddle a sailor’s pompom it’s lucky! I held on to my hat just in case! Walking to the quaysides of the River Seine that runs through the city, I couldn’t help but notice how many streets and shops were decorated in nautical style. Even in the church of Joan of Arc there was an Armada crossword. The port city of Rouen loves a boat, and Rouen loves its Armada.

There is something wonderfully romantic about tall ships, maybe it’s all those stories of pirates and world discovery books I read as a child, but as these magnificent ships sailed under the monumental Gustave Flaubert Bridge on the first night of the Armada, it was clear that I’m not the only one who loves them.

I climbed aboard the tall ship Joanna Saturna which had arrived from Finland – a 1200km journey of 9 days non-stop from Helsinki to Le Havre. She made an additional stop in Duclair (30 minutes from Rouen by bus) to pick up passengers before joining dozens more tall ships on their journey into the city’s port for the opening night.

Sail the Seine on a tall ship

For the next three hours we sailed serenely along the Seine, past cliffs where we could spot caves that were used in the Middle Ages for the storage of wine and food. A rocky outcrop called “Gargantua’s seat” cleft into the cliffs came into view. Ahead of us a tall ship from Mexico, in fact the tallest ship in town, fired of a round of gun salutes – the Joanna Saturna tooted her very loud horn. On board the Mexican ship a band broke out into a happy Tijuana style tune gaining it a massive round of applause. We couldn’t top that!

A French naval ship sailed to our right and behind, the mast of another tall ship came onto the horizon. It’s an amazing feeling as the water swells and the sun beams down, the rigging creaks and clanks – a timeless sound. All along the side of the river, passing cars tooted a greeting, people were gathered to watch the ships sail by – waving flags, cheering and whistling. A small boat pulled alongside ours with a group of kids shouting “sound the horn, sound the horn”, the captain obliged much to their delight, a long low wail that echoed across the water.

Flags of all nations were proudly displayed all along the river as we floated past small towns and hamlets. I asked the Captain if the journey was as smooth as this the whole way “sure” he said and winked.

As the city came into sight the cheers got louder, crowds thronged the quayside – the Armada had begun. I made my way to the tall ship Thalassa, where I was sleeping that night. She usually serves as a training ship, run by tough salty sea dogs from the Netherlands. All gleaming wood and polished brass. From the deck I watched the fabulous nightly Armada fireworks display.

From morning to midnight, the river was awash with boats floating past these majestic tall ships and getting a great view. Pleasure boats, restaurant boats, lifeboats, eco boats – collecting waste and sustainably disposing of it, there’s a serious message here too. There were boats full of people enjoying chilled beers, wine, music, some have a party atmosphere. After dark the quays throbbed to the sound of music, uplifting and great, great fun.

You can explore the ships during the day and chat to the crews – the Mexican ship was very popular! You need to get up early to see the sailors servicing the ships, painting their hulls and doing their morning exercises.

Don’t miss the Maritime, Fluvial and Harbour Museum of Rouen while you’re here. Right by the Gustave Flaubert Bridge along the river front pop into the marine museum which is run by volunteers to gen up on the history of the port of Rouen. Model makers on site create incredible ships, there are fascinating exhibitions and artefacts, and when I was there members of the International Guild of Knot Tiers’ were demonstrating their skills creating knotted rope art. ww1.musee-maritime-rouen.asso.fr

This is an unmissable event. Enjoy a boat ride, eat, drink and be merry. And sunscreen, take sunscreen!

The next Rouen Armada will take place in June 2027.

Details: armada.org