Mont-Saint-Michel is a remarkable tidal island located in the Manche department, Normandy. Sitting just off the impressive coastline between Normandy and Brittany, this is one of France’s most impressive sights. The mount’s spectacular Abbey is the crowning glory, perched atop a rocky outcrop in the heart of the bay which provides breath-taking views from all around. Jeremy Flint explores the extraordinary Mont-Saint-Michel and nearby to uncover the secret parts and the must-sees plus what to see and do in the area.
UNESCO-listed Mont-Saint-Michel
One of the most popular attractions in the country, second only to the Eiffel Tower, both the abbey and the bay have held UNESCO World Heritage status since 1979. The iconic sanctuary has been attracting pilgrims for centuries, with vast numbers drawn to the scenic splendour, beautiful buildings and the glory of Saint Michael. For centuries, devotees would risk crossing the bay with strong tides and precarious quicksands to reach this spiritual place. Even today, a stream of around 3 million visitors and pilgrims flock each year to the island its spectacular bay.
Whether you arrive on foot, by bike or by bus along the permanent path that connects the island to the mainland, there are a wealth of things to explore from the authentic, medieval streets to the historic ramparts, the Abbey, and its cloisters.
Stunning architecture
You can’t help but be wowed by the fortified walls and towers of this world-famous landmark that rises up to the clustered buildings of the village. Pass the drawbridge and enjoy a stroll through the Grande Rue (main street) lined with fine hotels, restaurants and shops. Sample the local cuisine at La Mère Poulard (Mother Poulard), which serves omelettes cooked on an open-wood fire, a gastronomic emblem. Developed by Annette Boutiaut Poulard in the 19th century, they are described as ‘the most famous omelettes in the world’ and have been enjoyed by many renowned visitors including Ernest Hemingway, Winston Churchill and even Marilyn Monroe. The Auberge de la Mère Poulard is also a great place to stay on the island.
Visit the village museums that resurrect the history of the site, and explore the hidden walkways round the ramparts for excellent panoramic views. Stop by the 15th and 16th century parish church of St Peter, a place of devotion to the Archangel Michael for pilgrims arriving at the mount. Don’t miss the statue of Saint Michael slaying the dragon inside the side chapel. The church provides the perfect oasis to pause and take a break from the hustle and bustle of the Grand Rue before climbing the steep, lung-busting stairways to the Abbey.
The Abbey of Mont-Saint-Michel
The Grand Degré, a narrow staircase of 350 steps leads you to the Abbey entrance. Here you can experience the splendour of the abbey and explore the labyrinth of buildings linked by suspended passageways over three floors. 2023 is a special year that marks the millennium since the Romanesque abbey’s construction in 1023.
Inside the magnificent Gothic-style Benedictine Abbey, the imposing 11th century nave is an impressive sight with its grand arches, galleries and tall windows. Services are still held here daily (except Mondays) and there are weekend masses.
The west terrace offers a unique view of the spire of the church tower mounted with a gravity-defying, gilded copper statue of Saint Michael and views of the Breton town of Cancale to the west, the cliffs of Normandy to the east and the archipelago of the Chausey Isles (where granite was sourced to build the abbey) out to sea. Here, you can also appreciate the small monastic and village gardens from above.
The walkway continues around a courtyard through the cloisters, small columns create constantly changing views before arriving in the refectory, and it’s here that monks once ate their meals in reverent silence. Finally, you can descend to the underground crypts and their magnificent stone pillars supporting the weight of the church and acknowledge this true architectural marvel.
Tombelaine Islet
Back at the base of the mount, you can walk in the bay up to the Islet of Tombelaine on a guided tour and discover the quicksands and bird life – the islet is a bird reserve and protected breeding ground for gulls and passerines. Alternatively, take a hike along the coastline for the most beautiful views of Mont-Saint-Michel.
Dine at: Restaurant La Ferme St Michel Sample salt marsh lamb and whelk specialities served in the airy, stone-walled farmhouse, Route du Mont-Saint-Michel, La Caserne.
When to visit
June to August is one of the best times to visit with the warmest temperatures in Normandy and pleasant weather but be aware that these are also the busiest months and Mont-Saint-Michel can be very crowded. Another great time to visit is during Spring with the largest tides in Europe surrounding the Mont and you can witness an extraordinary sight as the Mont becomes an island, enveloped by the ocean.
What to see and do nearby:
Avranches
Extend your visit and discover the other delights of the bay and surroundings. In nearby Avranches, there is a Scriptorial museum which guards and preserves the Abbey’s ancient manuscripts which were found in the Abbey treasury. Take some additional time to see Avranches’ amazing architecture including charming churches, the old castle and the majestic town hall.
Dine at: La Toque Aux Vins, a newly refurbished bistro and bar that the locals love for the relaxed ambience and exquisite cuisine, 8 Rue de la Mairie.
Stay at: La Croix d’Or, a charming hotel-restaurant (and former coaching inn) in the centre of Avranches, 83 Rue de la Constitution.
Moidrey Windmill and salt marsh sheep
One of the highlights of the peaceful landscapes around the bay is the Moulin de Moidrey, a stunning Norman windmill, located within 5 kilometres of Mont Saint Michel. Also, inland from Mont Saint Michel you can see sheep graze on the salt marshes at low tide and enjoy this distinctive agricultural practice.
Dine at: the nearby Le Grillon in Pontorson with tasty pancakes and an awesome grill, 37 Rue Couesnon.
Cancale
West of Mont Saint Michel, the headland offers a picturesque coastline dotted with oyster farms and wonderful views where La Pointe du Grouin provides one of the best outlooks to sea and further west towards Saint Malo. Visit the Ferme Marine oyster farm to learn about the history and heritage of oyster farming and sample these fantastic delights of the ocean.
Saint-Malo
The beautiful town of Saint-Malo and its natural harbour are a wonderful place to explore where the ramparts rise proudly above the beaches and port making it a unique sight. Unearth Saint-Malo’s beauty and charm with a walk along the historic walls, visit the Chateau and marvel at the old city views from the lookout towers, then see the wonders of the sea at the aquarium before refuelling at a creperie.
Read more about Saint-Malo in the free to read The Good Life France Magazine.
Visit a farm
Finally, with farming being such an important way of life in the region, seize the opportunity to visit one of the local farms and enjoy their local products. Cara-Meuh farm in Vains is an organic, third generation farm in the bay of Mont Saint Michel that produce delicious products including cheese, cream, butter, milk, eggs, honey, pork, beef and their famous artisanal caramels (made from their very own milk and butter) with different flavours from salted butter to chocolate and apple, a local delicacy of the region. Tour the farm and treat yourself to their goods in the farm shop, besides other local produce.
For more information about visiting Mont Saint Michel and the bay (including parking and entry tickets to the Abbey), times of services in the abbey, and to find out about hotels on the island (which is how Jeremy got to see it like this – empty of visitors!) visit ot-montsaintmichel.com
Jeremy Flint is an award-winning professional photographer and writer specialising in travel, landscape and location photography. His work is published extensively in The Good Life France Magazine, National Geographic Traveller Lonely Planet and Country Life amongst others. He is a five-time finalist in Travel Photographer of the Year, Association of Photographers Discovery Award Winner and National Geographic Traveller Grand Prize Winner.
Have a listen to our Mont-Saint-Michel podcast episode – legends, strange facts and incredible figures…
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