Toulouse, the ‘pink city.’ offers everything from space-age thrills and incredible aviation museums to cockle warming grub.

Stepping inside the narrow aircraft cabin, I immediately find myself slipping back 35 years as I travel from the UK to Toulouse to start a circular tour of the Lot Valley. The first time I flew into this beguiling city, I was on board Concorde, one of many iconic planes engineered here in the heartland of France’s aviation industry.

So as I look down the aisle of a Concorde prototype at the city’s Aeroscopia museum, a wealth of happy memories come flooding back. In 1989, I took an unforgettable day trip to mark the 20^th anniversary of the world’s favourite airliner. A flight to Toulouse on an Air France Concorde, a gastronomic lunch at a chateau, and home on board a British Airways Concorde. A trip I have treasured ever since.

Trailblazing & tasty Toulouse

I have been back to the ‘Pink City’ – capital of the Occitanie region – to discover its heritage buildings, museums and irresistible lifestyle, but have never explored its aviation pedigree. So this time I’m taking a weekend to discover the city’s family-friendly flying attractions and indulge myself in its lively foodie scene.

From my base at the comfortable Citiz Hotel (citizhotel.com), the city is easily accessible by public transport or on foot. Ten minutes’ walk to the main station in one direction, even less to the historic centre in the other, with the Massena Metro station and key bus and tram routes also on the doorstep.

Aeroscopia

My first stop is Aeroscopia at Blagnac, close to Toulouse’s international airport to the west of the city. Open 361 days of the year, this inspiring collection includes a wealth of iconic civil and military aircraft from the early days of powered flight to the present day. Just think Concorde, Caravelle and Airbus; Falcon, Mirage and the Blériot XI. And it’s soon clear that you don’t need any particular interest in aviation to enjoy this diverse collection and the human stories behind it.

I find it strangely humbling to look at the replica of Louis Blériot’s tiny wooden plane ‘flying’ above the concourse of the vast hangar and then look across to the sleek profile of Concorde that took to the skies just 60 years later. Blériot made the first flight over the English Channel from Calais in 1909, his achievement capturing the imagination of wealthy wannabe pilots whose early flying machines were manufactured around Paris. But as the Western Front of the Great War advanced relentlessly towards the capital, the Government moved the aviation industry as far away as possible, and Toulouse quickly evolved into a centre of aeronautical excellence and innovation.

After an afternoon immersed in iconic aviation, I come right back to the present with dinner at Les Halles de la Cartoucherie (halles-cartoucherie.fr), opened in September 2023 as part of the city’s emerging new eco-district. Easily reached by tram or bus from the city centre, the Cartoucherie neighbourhood is just 15 minutes from Place du Capitole and incorporates accommodation with entertainment venues, workspaces and leisure facilities on the site of a 19^th century arsenal.

Gun cartridges and most recently electronic accessories were produced in Les Halles which has been imaginatively repurposed to combine market stalls and international street food outlets with sports facilities, meeting rooms, and cultural events. Just hop on the T1 Tram or L2 bus for access from the city centre. On a Saturday evening, the spacious building is buzzing with families and friends enjoying an eclectic choice of cuisine at communal tables.

For accommodation on a budget, check out Eklo (eklohotels.com) just across the plaza, a new French concept of green, affordable hotels, combining a design hotel and youth hostel with strict sustainability credentials.

Next morning, I enjoy a different side of Toulouse’s diverse gastronomic scene on a guided tour of the city’s Victor Hugo Market with American resident Jessica Hammer, founder of Taste of Toulouse (tasteoftoulouse.com). I know a fair bit about French gastronomy but still learn new things as Jessica leads our convivial small group from one friendly stall holder to another, finishing with an indoor picnic of carefully selected cheese and charcuterie, accompanied of course by a glass or two of local wine. Huge fun.

Cité de l’Espace

Next I head to the east side of the city for Cité de l’Espace, a family-friendly attraction that combines space craft with interactive exhibitions and timed shows, a Planetarium and IMAX®3D theatre, all set in a landscaped park. To make the most of all that is on offer, arrive early and plan your day around the scheduled events.

Inside the exhibition hall, I particularly enjoy the section on how space affects our daily lives through satellites transmitting weather information and images for telecommunications, television and GPS. And amongst a wealth of hands-on experiences, I can’t resist trying to steer a virtual moon buggy to a lunar module, albeit rather shakily!

Back outside I wander amongst rockets and moon buggies, and get a taste of an astronaut’s environment inside a space station module. It’s cosy but not all bad, given the selection of vacuum-packed food on display, including a portion of my favourite Confit de Canard, cooked up by the Souillac Hotel School in Lot!

If you have time to spare, head to nearby Montaudran where L’Envol des Pionniers –Flight of the Pioneers – celebrates the early years of the French air postal service in the former workshops beside the historic runway. Discover the pioneers of Aéropostale and legendary pilots such as Saint-Exupéry, Mermoz and Guillaumet who flew over deserts, mountains and oceans to deliver mail. And you may spot the resident Minotaur who lives next door!

With a second evening to indulge myself in Toulouse’s varied restaurant scene, I walk through the vast Capitole Square and soak up the atmosphere of this popular meeting place over an al fresco apéro the arcades. Then it’s time to head to Molette (molette-restaurant.fr), a block back from the banks of the Garonne, for my dinner reservation.

The name Molette comes from the colloquial word for a good friend and this cosy little restaurant serves hearty homemade dishes from seasonal local produce designed to satisfy the appetite of a bear, hence their ursine logo. I’m one of the first to arrive as doors open but within minutes, every table is taken. And it’s not long before I find out why. Their signature dish of Mountain Pork with Thyme melts in the mouth, so I obediently make like a bear and devour every last bit, followed by a decadent giant profiterole with caramel sauce. Then I head out into the warm evening to stroll amongst the locals on the quayside as darkness falls over this beguiling city.

Next morning, with a few hours to fill before I fly home, there is just time to take in one of the city’s most historic buildings before it closes for major refurbishment. Due to reopen in Autumn 2025, Le Musée des Augustins is home to one of the city’s leading art collections, atmospherically displayed in a 14^th century monastery. Don’t miss it if you’re travelling to Toulouse next year.

Later, at the airport, I buy a lunchtime sandwich to eat mid-air. I can’t help wishing I was having Confit de Canard instead, but preferably not in a space capsule. Give me that Concorde silver service any day!

By Gillian Thornton, one of the UK’s leading travel writers and a regular writer for The Good Life France Magazine and website.

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Any walker who follows one of the French pilgrim trails to Santiago de Compostela in Spain is guaranteed a heady mix of natural landscapes and beautiful buildings. But few can compete with the Pont Valentré that spans the river Lot at Cahors.

A major landmark on the Via Podensis from Le Puy-en-Velay in Auvergne, this medieval bridge with its three defensive towers is a wow from any angle, but especially when reflected in still blue water. Open to traffic until 1983, Pont Valentré is now purely pedestrian and wherever I stand, I simply can’t resist another photo says Gillian Thornton as she takes a train trip through the Lot.

Pickled in the past Cahors is full of charm

North-west of Toulouse in the Occitanie region of South-West France, Cahors is the principal town of the Lot department, surrounded on three sides by steep hills and nestled inside one of the many tight meanders carved out of the landscape over the centuries.

The native Gauls worshipped Divona, goddess of underground water, at a gushing spring here beside the Lot – a site now known as the Fontaine des Chartreux – but it was the Romans who founded the town of Divona within the meander where three roads met.

Arrive by road today and Cahors is an ideal base for exploring the beautiful Lot Valley. Or take the train from Toulouse in less than 90 minutes, just one of many route options on the Occitanie Rail Tour. Whatever your mode of transport, the family-run Hotel Terminus (terminus-1911.fr) is well situated opposite the station and just ten minutes’ walk from the historic old town. Expect Art Nouveau stained glass, traditional atmosphere, and seasonal dishes in the Bistro 1911.

What to see in Cahors

I start by picking up a free map at the Tourist Office in Place Mitterand, separated from the historic Old Town by Boulevard Léon Gambetta, a broad thoroughfare on the line of the medieval ramparts. Gambetta’s father ran a grocery shop beside the Cathedral and young Léon, born in 1838, went on to become a lawyer and republican politician who played a prominent role in the Third Republic from 1870.

Next door to the Tourist Office, the Cahors Malbec Lounge (vindecahors.fr) is the go-to spot for understanding the Lot Valley’s famous wines. Not just red, I discover, but white, rose and sparkling too, served here in traditional local glasses that incorporate a ring of glass in the stem. Choose from four tasting options from 6 to 16 euros per person.

Guilhem, my wine guide, explains that of the 70 domaines and 180 wine makers within Appelation Lot, 80% are independent, the others part of a co-operative. And whilst the grapes are mostly Malbec, blends can include up to 30% of other local varieties. The Malbec Lounge showcases up to six domaines each week to help visitors find their favourite and maybe book a vineyard visit.

Tasting over, I turn my back on the Old Town for a while and head west for the short walk across the isthmus to Pont Valentré, built – very slowly – in the 13^th Century close to the Fontaine des Chartreux. With its six arches and three imposing towers, this unique medieval bridge is listed by UNESCO as part of the Routes of Santiago de Compostela in France.

On a small grassy bank beside the first tower, I’m surprised to find rows of vines that turn out to be more than just an advertisement for the area’s liquid treasure. ‘The Garden of Inebriation’ is the start of the town’s Secret Gardens itinerary, a self-guided trail of 21 themed plots that are an intrinsic part of local life. Launched in 2002, they gained Remarkable Garden status in 2006 and are maintained on eco-friendly principles. Organic matter is recycled; beds regularly mulched; and plants chosen for their suitability to climate and soil. Pick up the free annotated trail guide.

After the fall of the Roman Empire, Divona retreated to land on the eastern side of the isthmus. Enclosed with a ditch and ramparts in the 7^th century, the town grew steadily in importance thanks to its road and river trade links, attracting merchants, bankers and medieval entrepreneurs. Stroll today through the heart of the historic town and you can still see their imposing houses with arcades for shops and workshops at street level and elegant windows above, the accolade of oldest property in town going to the half-timbered corner house at 12 Rue de la Daurade.

The nearby Cathedral of St Stephen boasts two of the largest cupolas in south-west France and an ornate carved tympanum as well as vestiges of medieval wall paintings. And I find several Secret Gardens nearby including a colourful Moorish Garden with its bright mosaics and running water; the raised beds of the Monks’ Kitchen Garden; and the Flower Garden providing altar flowers for the Cathedral. For an allergy-friendly restaurant with a different menu every day, try Restaurant Marie Colline nearby.

I have another treat in store before leaving Cahors. Crossing back across Boulevard Gambetta, I come to the Henri Martin Museum (museehenrimartin.fr), reopened in May 2022 in the former Bishop’s palace after major refurbishment. This unmissable museum is dedicated to the celebrated post-Impressionist painter, born in 1860 in Toulouse and a lifelong lover of the Lot countryside. In 1900, Henri Martin bought the Domaine de Marquayrol, 23 km from Cahors where he spent five months every summer painting local scenes.

The new-look museum brings together on three floors an eclectic range of exhibits acquired by the City of Cahors including archaeological finds, work by artists from the Quercy region, and a collection based around Léon Gambetta. But pride of place goes to Martin himself. Visitors to Toulouse may already know his huge wall paintings inside the Capitole building, but this enchanting museum boasts the largest public collection of his works, amongst them scenes of Cahors and the Lot Valley.

Inspired by Martin’s paintings, I need no further excuse to head east along the river for a welcome return to one of his favourite subjects. St Cirq Lapopie is classified amongst France’s Most Beautiful Villages, named after the child martyr Saint Cyr and one of the three feudal families who administered the village. No car? Catch the bus linking Cahors with Figeac and walk up to the village perched high above the Lot.

Saint-Cirq-Lapopie

St-Cirq-Lapopie buzzes by day with visitors come to browse the small galleries, eat at the restaurants, and just soak up the medieval atmosphere of houses from the 13^th to 15^th Centuries. But only a couple of dozen people live permanently in the steep cobbled streets that lead to the ruined hilltop chateau. Book a room and you can have the village to yourself.

I dine on delicious confit duck leg at the Gourmet Quercynois, rightly popular for its authentic regional cuisine, and stay in a huge room with valley views at Maison Lapopie (maison-lapopie.com), a delightful B&B that offers tranquillity in the extreme. The owners live off site, so your key awaits you in the door and breakfast arrives in a picnic basket to enjoy at your private window table.

Next morning, I take a quiet stroll through deserted streets before heading back down to river level for a tranquil towpath walk towards Bouziès, departure point for seasonal river cruises. Then I’m back on the road for the scenic drive to Figeac (read about Figeac in The Good Life France Magazine Issue 38 – it’s free!).

Find out more at Cahors Vallee du Lot Tourism

By Gillian Thornton, one of the UK’s leading travel writers and a regular writer for The Good Life France Magazine and website.

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We share our top tips for what to see and do in Mirepoix, a medieval jewel of the Midi-Pyrénées region, with oodles of charm and a marvellous market!

Say ‘Mirepoix’ and if onions, celery and carrots are the first thing that springs to mind, it shows you know your way around the kitchen. And in a roundabout way the mirepoix you dice comes from this charming medieval market town located on the river Hers in the Ariège at the crossroads of Toulouse, Carcassonne and Foix, in the heart of Cathar country.

History of Mirepoix

With 600 members of the heretical Cathar sect and a Cathar lord – Pierre-Roger de Mirepoix – the town was an early target of the Albigensian Crusade to eliminate them all. Simon de Montfort captured Mirepoix in 1209 and bestowed it on his right-hand man, Guy de Lévis. The Lévis would rule Mirepoix until the French Revolution, while Pierre-Roger de Mirepoix went on to lead the Cathar garrison in the lofty citadel of Monségur. Here 225 Cathars were besieged by the crusaders until they were starved out in 1244. All preferred to be burned at the stake rather than convert to Catholicism.

‘Mirepoix’ comes from Mira Peis (‘see the fish’ in old Occitan), hence the golden fish on the town’s coat of arms. Originally the Mirapiciens looked at the fish from the right bank of the river Hers, until a flooded dam swept Mirepoix away in 1279, leaving only its castle, the Château de Terride. Jean de Lévi built a replacement town higher up on the left bank and created, bastide-style, a rectangular grid of streets around a market square, with a church off to the side. The Lévis rebuilt it after the Black Prince sacked it in 1355 in the Hundred Years’ War. A decade later English mercenaries, the Routiers burned it down again.

A bit after the fact, Mirepoix was fortified: one gate, the Porte d’Aval, is still intact.

Medieval masterpiece

But karma was done with Mirepoix, leaving it one of the most beautiful (and biggest) market squares in all Occitanie: the colourful, 112m by 55m Place des Couverts, lined with wood pillared porticoes where merchants could trade in all weathers. “The unique half-timber framed houses around the marketplace, naturally create a shopping and restaurant arcade,” say locals Mark and Kay Williams of Real South of France Tours. “And there are amazing wooden gargoyles along some of the frontages.”

The best gargoyles and carvings (103 of them!) adorn the ends of the beams of the Maison des Consuls, once seat of the local magistrates.

Because of its key location, Mirepoix has always been an important market town, and Place des Couverts is the perfect stage for Mirepoix’s massive Monday morning market as well as for festivals, including the Swing à Mirepoix jazz on Easter weekend and the themed Fête de la Pomme in October. The local apple artists love a challenge: bulls made of apples? Musical instruments? Tintin? No problem!

Historic monuments

Looming over all is the 58m tower of the church of Saint-Maurice. The Lévis began it in 1298, but in 1317 when the pope elevated Mirepoix to a bishopric (part of the Church’s scheme to keep a close eye on heresy danger zones), they went a bit mad and carried on building for the next six centuries. The nave is a tour de force of southern Gothic, where width rather than height was a thing: its 22.2m single span nave is surpassed only by Girona’s Cathedral (22.98m).

Walk along Avenue de Pont to see Mirepoix’s other monument historique: an 800-year-old holm oak, last survivor of the forest chopped down to re-build the 13^th century town.

Even older is the remarkable three storey Église Rupestre de Vals, 12km west of Mirepoix. Partially built into the rock, a holy site since the Bronze Age and once a temple to a Celtic god, its mid-level is decorated 12^th century Catalan frescoes. There’s no place in France like it.

And the Mirepoix?

One of the last dukes, Gaston Pierre de Lévis-Mirepoix (1699-1757) despite being “an incompetent and mediocre individual… who owed his vast fortune to the affection Louis XV felt toward his wife,” had a chef who invented a sauce and named it after his boss. The original version included wine and meats, but over the decades mirepoix simply came to mean the diced carrots, onions and celery that you sauté to start dozens of sauces, soups and stews.

Dana Facaros has lived in France for over 30 years. She is the creator of French Food Decoder app: everything you want to know about French food, and co-author of the Bradt guide to Gascony & the Pyrenees and many guide books to France.

Find out more about Mirepoix at: ariegepyrenees.com

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Day or night, whatever the weather, Montauban’s Place Nationale is a magical spot to wind down a gear or three at a café table. Centre of local life since medieval times, this bijou square is surrounded by red brick properties, built after the old wooden buildings were gutted by fire in the 17th century. Nearly 400 years later, the double arcades and harmonious facades simply ooze symmetry and wellbeing.

Whenever I make a welcome return to Montauban, Place Nationale is always my first port of call. So I’m thrilled this time to find that the square is now even more enchanting, thanks to the installation of a water mirror that zings periodically to life with dancing water jets and swirls of coloured illuminations.

What to see in Montauban

The largest town of Tarn-et-Garonne, Montauban lies north of Toulouse in the west of the Occitanie region. But Montauban is large only in relation to the rest of this rural department. Bisected by the river Tarn, this enchanting town numbers barely 30,000 inhabitants but still carries the prestigious label of Art & History Town in recognition of its rich heritage and outstanding art collections.

Many visitors arrive in Tarn et Garonne by car, bent on discovering a landscape that includes steep gorges, rolling farmland, and peaceful waterways. Not just the Tarn and Garonne either. Both the Aveyron and the Canal Latéral la Garonne join the Tarn at UNESCO-listed Moissac with its decorated abbey cloister. For hikers and bikers, the department offers a wide choice of marked trails but there are slow tourism activities to suit everyone. I have been horse riding on the cliffs above the Aveyron; explored at water level by kayak; and revelled in a level pedal beneath towpath trees.

And if you don’t want to drive or just want a more planet-friendly holiday, Montauban is less than an hour from Toulouse by train on the Lot and Dordogne Line. Stay on the train line to visit the white limestone houses of Caussade, capital of the French hat-making industry in the Quercy Blanc area of Tarn et Garonne. Or pick up the Canal des Deux Mers Line to visit Moissac. Plan your route and buy tickets at Occitanie Rail Tour.

I love Moissac, where society guests danced at riverside guinguettes in the 1930s during their grape juice ‘cure’; the atmospheric market town of St Antonin Noble Val on the banks of the Aveyron; and the medieval villages of Auvillar and Bruniquel, both classified amongst France’s Most Beautiful Villages.

For a central but quiet hotel in the heart of town, the Hotel du Commerce ticks all my boxes. Situated on a landscaped pedestrian square, this good-value hotel is overlooked by the white façade of the Cathedral. Currently closed for restoration, this Baroque extravaganza was commissioned by Roman Catholic king Louis XIV as a show of power after the Protestant town refused to yield to his father, Louis XIII in the siege of 1621.

After an al fresco bistro dinner at Chez Olympe beside the water mirror, my first stop next day is the Ingres Bourdelle Museum opened in December 2019 after major refurbishment. This former Bishop’s Palace stands on the remains of a riverside fortress begun in 1360 during the Hundred Years War by England’s ‘Black Prince’. Unfinished after French forces regained the town nine years later, the medieval hall is now an atmospheric venue for temporary art exhibitions.

But the main focus of the collection is the work of Montauban’s two famous artistic sons, neo-classical painter Jean-Auguste-Dominque Ingres – born here in 1780 – and 19^th century sculptor Antoine Bourdelle, born 1861. Originally a museum dedicated to Ingres alone – who left 44 paintings and 4500 drawings to his hometown – this enchanting museum houses the largest collection of his work, as well as the second largest Bourdelle collection after the Bourdelle Museum in Paris. I wander from one elegant room to another, lingering over a portrait of the young Ingres against a backdrop of décor designed by his father – himself a jobbing artist and stonemason – and stopping to admire his personal collection of antiquities portrayed in his pictures.

Beyond the museum walls, look out for dramatic Bourdelle bronzes as you walk beneath the red brick facades with their pale blue shutters. The monumental war memorial overlooking the Pont Vieux; a pensive statue of Ulysses’ wife Penelope outside the Tourist Office; and Greek poetess Sapho who stands opposite the theatre dedicated to local heroine Olympe de Gouges. Playwright and political activist, Olympe was executed in the Revolution for her feminist writings.

What to see near Montauban

Next morning, I discover a very different kind of art at the Abbey of Beaulieu-en-Rouergue, tucked away up a country road near St Antonin Noble Val. Second only in importance to the Pompidou Centre in Paris, this newly restored heritage building houses a collection of modern art from after the Great War, amassed by husband and wife collectors Geneviève Bonnefoi and Pierre Brache.

As with the Musée Ingres-Bourdelle, Beaulieu Abbey is another example of the French talent for turning heritage buildings into art museums. Now owned by Monuments Nationaux, it reopened in 2021 after a four-year restoration programme that includes a cavernous Cistercian chapel flooded with natural light. Art journalist Geneviève and gallery owner Pierre bought works by relatively unknown artists and continued to support their careers, amassing a collection of more than 4,000 modern paintings, drawings and sculptures. Enjoy the changing display, then relax outside in the rose garden, still fragrant during my October visit.

After an al fresco lunch on the terrace of Chez Ernest on the outskirts of Montauban, popular for its wood-fire grills and traditional local fare, I drive south-west out of town to visit the department’s most unusual tourist attraction.

Canal Lateral

In 1856, the Canal Lateral à la Garonne was constructed between Toulouse and Bordeaux to link with the Canal du Midi from Toulouse to Sète, thus creating the Canal des Deux Mers. But in the 1970s, locks were extended by 10 metres to accommodate larger cargo barges, a problem at Montech where five locks occur in just over 2.5km on the Garonne canal.

Enter engineer Jean Aubert who designed The Pente d’Eau de Montech, an ingenious solution using two railway locomotives to push a volume of water uphill, thus enabling a boat to float up the water slope. Built in 1973, it was last used in 1993 but has now reopened as a free immersive museum that makes a fascinating stop on a walk or bike ride along the Voie Verte or Green Way towpath. Pick up the free leaflet from the waterside Tourist Office to follow the self-guided town trail.

Back in Montauban, I have time for a last lunch beneath the arcades of Place Nationale at Les 5 Bouchons, a great-value small restaurant listed in the Michelin Guide. Then I turn north to continue my circular trip by train through Cahors, Figeac and back to Toulouse.

Find out more about Tarn-et-Garonne at: tourisme-tarnetgaronne.fr/en

By Gillian Thornton, one of the UK’s leading travel writers and a regular writer for The Good Life France Magazine and website.

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Nestled beneath the snow-covered peaks of the Pyrenees, Ariège is a department relatively unknown even by the French says Gillian Thornton as she explores its many treasures and shares what to see and do in Ariège…

Standing in pitch darkness deep inside a mountain, I’m not sure what to expect next.

A few minutes ago I was in the bright sunshine of the Ariège valley, now I’m inside a cave with only a hand-held lamp to light the way through a gloomy cavern. There are no stalagmites, no stalactites, in fact not very much of anything as we walk along the dry riverbed. And the guide has told our small group to turn off the flashlights. The blackness is absolute and it’s strangely disorienting.

‘Can you hear how the acoustics have changed,’ she asks, upping her volume so we can hear the echo. ‘Our ancestors couldn’t see very far with their flaming torches, but they would have sensed that they’d come to a high cavern. Now … keep your lights off, but look towards me.’

Suddenly she turns her own lamp back on, the beam pointed at the floor, and I blink in the brightness. But as the light moves up the wall, my eyes open wide. Galloping across the rocky contours are horses, bison, and ibex, each one so skilfully outlined that I half expect them to canter off into the darkness with a snort and a shake of the head. No wonder we’ve been told not to touch the walls.

Grotte de Niaux

For these are not replicas, but the real deal, painted 14,000 years ago by Cro-Magnon man here in the ‘Salon Noir’ of the Grotte de Niaux. The cave is open throughout the year, but numbers are closely regulated to preserve the environment, so pre-booking is essential at www.sites-touristiques-ariege.fr.

The Grotte de Niaux is a highlight of any visit to the department of Ariège in the Occitanie region. Today it is one of the most rural departments in France with a population of barely 153,000. But whilst Ariège may not seem crowded now, in prehistoric times the limestone cliffs near the river were positively buzzing. Along with Lot and Dordogne, Ariège is one of the three most important departments in France for prehistoric sites. Not just Niaux but a number of sites including the Mas d’Azil, today a drive-through cave but once a refuge for rhinoceros, mammoths and men, although not, one assumes, at the same time.

What to see and do in Ariege

Foix, the county town of Ariège, is less than 100km from Toulouse airport and just 80 from Carcassonne, and yet many Francophiles have never heard of it. But if you like stunning landscapes and ancient history, character small towns and time-honoured traditions, put Ariège high on your To Do list.

My face-to-face with the region’s extinct wildlife took place just outside the small town of Tarascon-sur-Ariège. Here the Parc de la Préhistoire is the perfect complement to the cave at Niaux with its interactive exhibits and demonstrations. And for anyone who doesn’t do dark caves, a replica of the paintings at Niaux brings that Magdalanian magic vividly to life, with the added bonus of artwork found in galleries not often on show to the general public.

Just 20 km away in the centre of the department, Foix oozes atmosphere, dominated by a medieval hilltop castle owned by the powerful Counts of Foix. In the early 16^th century, they became kings of Navarre, the last of whom – Henri III – went on to scoop the top job as Henri IV of France. Tour the restored rooms, visit the interactive museum, and walk the ramparts for a taste of medieval power and politics.

Montségur

If you’re feeling adventurous, experience power struggles of a different kind at Montségur, 35 minutes’ drive from Foix. This hilltop castle was the last outpost of the Cathars, a strict religious movement which gathered much support in south-west France during the early 13^th century amongst people weary of the corrupt Catholic Church. The Cathars shunned material possessions but took refuge from the Papal armies led by Simon de Montfort in strongholds such as Montségur and nearby Roquefixade.

The Cathars last stand came in 1244 after a 10-month siege at Montségur. The occupants were given two weeks to renounce their faith, but more than 200 refused and were burnt alive at the foot of the hill. The steep 150-metre climb is not for the faint-hearted but offers spectacular views across peaks and valleys to the plains beyond.

Mirepoix

North of Montségur, the bastide town of Mirepoix is a must-see for its central square surrounded by open wooden galleries or couverts. Soak up the colourful half-timbered facades and explore the straight streets radiating out from the square. Don’t miss the carved wooden heads on La Maison des Consuls, once the council chamber and now a stylish hotel. www.tourisme-mirepoix.com. Nor St Maurice Cathedral behind the 19^th century covered market which boasts the widest nave in France and the second widest in Europe after Gerona in Spain – a graphic illustration of how new Catholic churches were built to accommodate the maximum number of souls in a vigorous recruiting drive after the fall of the Cathars.

Mirepoix and the fortified community of Camon – listed amongst Les Plus Beaux Villages – stand on the flat land in the eastern part of the department, but head west and the landscape soon becomes increasingly craggy. For dramatic views and deep gorges, take the scenic route from Tarascon-sur-Ariège to the market town of Saint-Girons and neighbouring Saint-Lizier with its Romanesque cloister and narrow cobbled lanes, a stop-off on the Santiago de Compostela routes.

Here in the heart of the Regional Natural Park of the Ariège Pyrenees, you can see black Mérens horses, a small sure-footed local breed ideally suited to the mountain terrain. Once close to extinction, the Mérens has been saved in recent years, largely thanks to enthusiasts like Jean-Louis Savignol at the Haras Picard du Saint in Lasserre, which offers both riding excursions and accommodation www.merens-ariege.com.

Cro-Magnon man was moved to paint the forbears of today’s Mérens horses on the walls at Niaux. See them for yourself and you could find yourself reaching for a paint brush too.

www.ariegepyrenees.com

By Gillian Thornton, one of the UK’s leading travel writers and a regular writer for The Good Life France Magazine and website.

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The Vermillion Coast is in the Pyrénées-Orientales, in the Occitanie region, where the craggy Pyrénées mountains descend into the Mediterranean Sea. The view seen from high above the coast encompasses a rich landscape of geometrically captivating vineyards and jagged shoreline. Inextricably anchored between France and Spain, Collioure is considered the pearl of the Côte Vermeille, the Vermillion Coast. It takes its name from the iron ore present in the local rock, which gives it a rusty red colour.

Known since the time of the seagoing Phoenicians, this charmingly romantic, picture postcard village was the trading port for Roussillon during the middle ages and the home of Fauvism in the very early years of the 20th century.

What to see in Collioure

Collioure’s strategically built castle, which juts out to the turquoise Mediterranean, was once home to the Kings of Majorca and became the scene for many battles for possession fought between France and Spain which France finally won in 1793. Just minutes from the Spanish border, Collioure is contentedly French with characteristically Catalan influences.

Breathtaking scenery and delectable local cuisine bring connoisseurs of the senses to this, as yet, undiscovered part of the Mediterranean. Though its beaches are jammed during the summer like its famous anchovies packed in a can, you’ll rarely see an American tourist. For serious wine lovers, Collioure is home to a variety of rich, red wine including Banyuls vin doux. First used as a sacramental wine in churches throughout France, Banyuls was made popular by the Knights Templar during the crusades of the middle ages.

A favourite with artists

Enchanting Collioure is a feast for the eyes, mixing Spanish flair with a French sensibility. The incandescent light which bathes the village drew artists to its shore. In 1905, Henri Matisse visited Collioure and was inspired by the lovely scenery and vibrant colors. His paintings ignites a new movement in art called Fauvism that revolutionized the concept of colour.

Never a strict art movement it, nonetheless, became the first avant-garde wave of the early twentieth century. Picasso, Chagall, Derain, Dufy, and Braque followed. They often stayed at and met to discuss art at the Hotel des Templiers bar, paying for their drinks with art. The hotel is open to this day and boasts an astonishing collection of over a hundred original paintings and sketches. The Fauves (wild beasts) shocked the art world with their “orgy of pure color”.

Painting with pure, unmixed colors, they disregarded the reality of their subjects shapes and natural palette. To honor their contribution to the cultural landscape of Collioure, reproductions of their works appear in an open air museum on the “Chemin du Fauvisme.” Through twenty bronze frames scattered along the route you can see what they saw and painted. Incredibly the view has not changed, in some cases, in over 6 centuries.

Matisse said, “My choice of colours does not rest on any real scientific theory. It is based on observation, on feeling, on the very nature of each experience.”

Within easy reach of Carcassonne, Perpignan and Montpellier, Collioure on the Vermillion Coast is worth experiencing.

Sue Aran lives in the Gers department of southwest France where she runs French Country Adventures which provides private, personally-guided, small-group food & wine adventures into Gascony, the Pays Basque, Tarn, Provence and beyond…

What to see and do nearby

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The Archipel de Thau lagoon in the south of France is a bit of a secret place. Around 20km long, and separated from the Mediterranean by a sandbank, the L’Étang de Thau as it’s also called, is the largest salt lake in the Occitanie region. It’s a breeding ground for oysters and mussels. Bordering the lake are pretty villages surrounded by lush vineyards. From the commune of Agde to the town of Sète, on the Mediterranean side there are miles and miles of wide sandy beaches known as Marseillan Plage.

Rising out of the sea, and the dominant landmark of the lagoon, is the hill of Mont Saint-Clair. At its base lies Sète, known as the Venice of the region thanks to its canals and busy port. This lively town has a plethora of restaurants all around the port and almost all serve freshly caught fish. Dishes reflect a strong Italian influence due to the immigrant workers who helped create the canals in the 17^th century.

Sète is a cruise destination as well as France’s leading port for blue fish, sardines, anchovies and tuna. During the summer months, the banks of the main canal are filled with spectators watching water jousting, a form of entertainment dating back to the town’s inception in 1666. Teams dressed in white, board long boats and compete against each other to topple their adversary’s jouster with a 2.8m long wooden lance! In July, the open-air theatre with its enchanting backdrop of the Mediterranean, hosts a Jazz Festival that attracts top name artists.

Around the lagoon are little villages, each with its own charms.

Pretty villages

At Balaruc-les-Bains the Antique Mediterranean Garden is well worth a visit, laid out as it would have been in Roman times. Discover the  agriculture and horticulture of the Mediterranean, and the diverse use of flowers and plants in medicine, cooking, and cosmetics. The village is known for its therapeutic thermal waters.

At Bouzigues the secrets of the fishermen of L’Etang as well as oyster cultivation are explained at the Museum of Ethnographique.

And at the 12^th century Abbey of Valmagne you can take a wine tasting. Its architecture is based on the great cathedrals of Northern France. Original paintings are displayed on the stone walls of the cloisters, and there are regular exhibitions. Converted into a wine storehouse after the French Revolution, and thanks to its vineyards, it is known as the wine cathedral.

Marseillan

Make your way to Marseillan and en route you may spot pink flamingos in the shallow waters of the lagoon. Marseillan Port is a preserved heritage site with pretty cafés bordering the inlet. The town is the home of Noilly Prat vermouth, a favourite ingredient of James Bond for his famous “shaken not stirred” Dry Martini! Its history can be traced back to 1813, and a visit to the Noilly Prat museum will reveal many secrets including the spices and herbs in the ingredients list. Tours end with a tasting – perfect.

Marseillan’s market takes place on Tuesday morning. Its arrival turns the village from a quiet, sleepy town into a vibrant place. In a row of shacks where the boats come to off-load their catch from the Etang, you’ll find La Cabane Brasucade, a tiny family run eaterie facing onto the lagoon. Here, they marinate the oysters and mussels which are grown just offshore. You can’t miss the sight of row upon row of what look like huts on stilts in the lagoon. The freshly harvested, marinated molluscs are cooked over an open fire. Served with the local wine, such as Picpoul de Pinet, this is one of life’s finest pleasures!

Activities galore

There are numerous water sports including kayaking, stand-up paddle boarding, sailing and kitesurfing. Bicycle paths are everywhere, including the 18 miles of Marseillan Plage. Beaches offer somewhere to relax, play and eat with numerous restaurants and bars.

There are also many walking paths in the area, some circumnavigating vineyards where you can enjoy tastings. This is an area of small, independent wine growers and often, it’s a matter of ringing a bell at the front door to access the tasting room.

This little part of paradise is authentic and irresistibly pretty, a well-kept secret to fall in love with.

www.archipel-thau.com

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Natasha Blair is a member of the British Guild of Travel Writers. She became a Francophile after studying French Civilisation for Foreigners at the Sorbonne University in Paris. When possible, she loves to travel with her pet passport carrying dog, Poppy, a Coton du Tuleur.

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The village of Cordes-sur-Ciel, rises 100 meters above the Cérou river valley, in the northwest corner of the Tarn department, 80 km northeast of Toulouse. The name means Cordes in the sky – find out what do see in and nearby the heavenly village of Cordes-sur-Ciel…

The two steep, natural limestone cliffs of the Puech de Mordagne peak, upon which Cordes rests, were the perfect building blocks for the first bastide (fortified village), built by Raymond VII, the Count of Toulouse, in 1222, to protect his northern territories.

Many of its first settlers were Cathars, and though Raymond VII was not a Cathar, he tolerated their religious practices, giving them freedom from being vassals of his court in exchange for reaping the rewards of their industry. The Cathars were a peaceful Christian religious sect that was adverse to the exploitive wealth of the Catholic church hierarchy – they, therefore, didn’t recognize priesthood.  They wouldn’t kill unless in self defence, believed in the equality of the sexes and held steadfast to the idea of reincarnation, an anathema to church doctrine.  After their popularity grew to what the Catholic church feared were alarming rates, they were literally erased from face of the earth by the first Albigensian Crusade.

In the first half of the 13th century, Cordes’ resident population was over 5,000. The hilltop village was extremely prosperous, harvesting its wealth from the wool, cloth and leather trades. Unfortunately, the plague, The Black Death pandemic, arrived in 1348 killing a quarter of its population. The Hundred Years War from 1337 to 1453 also took its toll on the village.

Cordes recovered in the second half of the 15th century with the advent of the pastel industry.

Pastel comes from a plant called woad and is the source of indigo, a strong, natural blue dye. For many years the dyeing industry was the mainstay of Cordes wealth until the widespread use of synthetic indigo led to its eventual demise.

The village fortunes, once again, declined in the 16th century during the Wars of Religion. And the completion of the Canal du Midi in 1681, which linked the Mediterranean to the Atlantic as the main trade route of the south, by passed Cordes altogether. By the time of the French Revolution,  the population had withered to just under 2,500. In 1870, mechanical embroidery looms brought prosperity back to Cordes, by producing the embroidered crocodile logo for Lacoste fashions.

During the 1940’s Cordes became an artistic center. Most famously, the artist Yves Brayer, known for his landscape paintings of Provence and the writer Albert Camus lived in Cordes and inspired the creation of the Cordes Academy of Art.During the summer months there is a tram that will take you from the bottom of the village to the top.  I will certainly return during the long summer days for a guided tour of Cordes incredibly well preserved 13th & 14th century gothic houses and hôtel paticuliers.

There are several must-see places to visit near Cordes including Albi (25 minutes drive). The city is known for having the largest brick cathedral in the world, Sainte-Cecile, and as the birthplace of Toulouse Lautrec. Albi’s Palais de la Berbie has the largest collection of Lautrec’s work in the world.

The fortified hilltop village, Puycelci, is about a 35 minute drive from Cordes. It’s one of the more picturesque Plus Beaux Villages de France, (officially one of the prettiest villages in France).

Gaillac, a village known for its excellent AOC wines is also close by.

Sue Aran lives in the Gers department of southwest France where she runs French Country Adventures which provides private, personally-guided, small-group food & wine adventures into Gascony, the Pays Basque, Tarn and beyond…

Secret Toulouse – the city’s unusual side!

Top things to see and do in Albi

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France is without a doubt a world leader in culinary excellence. It’s the country with the most Michelin stars throughout Europe – way more than 600 – and can proudly declare some of the most iconic foods in the world as their own. Pleasure is on the menu across the country with regional specialities owning star status. Take a taste tour through Toulouse’s gut-busting local dishes and delicious must try foods.

Temptations of tasty Toulouse – the best local dishes

Toulouse, nicknamed la ville rose thanks to its many buildings in magnificent shades of pink through terracotta, is a city of winding cobbled streets, timber-framed houses – and a bustling food scene. The city’s delicious temptations are irresistible even if, as you’re about to find out, they might add a few pounds! Some of these recommendations are heavy with regional significance, while others demonstrate the city’s expanding menu to cater to all tastes. Most importantly, these 10 foods are tributes to France’s delicious cuisine – and put Toulouse firmly on the food map.

Cassoulet

First is, of course, cassoulet. If you visit Toulouse without trying this famous regional delicacy, then your experience is incomplete!

To say the southern cassoulet is hearty is an understatement. In fact, like most of the food in the south-west, it is a celebration of meat, in this case surrounded by baked white beans which, thanks to their thin skins, soak up all the rich flavours. Cassoulet originated in the medieval era as peasant food and cities across the region all serve their own versions with either mutton, duck or goose. In Toulouse, it is often presented with a saucisse de Toulouse as well as the preferred meat of the chef, in this case, duck confit. Cooked low and slow, the dish is meltingly soft. Its cooking is considered an art and served at traditional French restaurants such as Au Gascon or Maison du Cassoulet.

Saucisse de Toulouse

Many of you will have already tasted Toulouse sausage as the meat is a favourite beyond French borders. However, the recipe is unprotected so some international brands could be naughty fakes poaching the Toulouse name! Dating back 250 years, saucisse de Toulouse is sold in coils like a pink pudgy snake at all butchers and markets. Made from pork mince, pork belly and the butcher’s own ‘secret’ seasonings, it is an essential ingredient in the regional cassoulet in which it is slow-cooked. It can also be fried or braised, and is served at L’Aubrac, a restaurant honouring gut-busting Toulousain food (and their website clearly states if you’re craving a light meal, L’Aubrac isn’t for you!)

Magret de Canard

And yes, the meat continues! An iconic dish of the south-west is magret de canard – seared duck breast – one of the most revered dishes across France. It is easy to find on almost every menu in Toulouse, so famous and beloved is this duck recipe. Cooked like a steak, duck breast is pan-fried until the skin is crisp and golden, and the meat is served blush pink and sliced. In keeping with the rest of the city’s cuisine, it is rich and often served with a savoury jus to complement the meaty flavour. A delicacy and one I highly recommend.

Charcuterie

While I’m on the subject of meat… you cannot miss the charcuterie of Toulouse. Restaurants and cafés serve apéro (aperitif) in the early evening where you can order cured and cold meats and pâtés, most of which are local or market purchases, as pre-dinner appetizers.

Explore the markets yourself, particularly Marché Victor Hugo, and everywhere you look there are saucissons and dried shoulders of jambon hanging from the ceiling and terrines, rillettes and pâté enshrined in glass cabinets. Ask the butchers for regional delicacies, and if all else fails, sample porc gascon which comes sliced or as a pâté.

Cheese

While wandering those hallowed aisles of Marché Victor Hugo, the fromageries will be calling your name! France and fromage go hand in hand, especially as there are 1,600 French cheeses. You will find many of them in Toulouse’s markets, particularly those from the south-west. A creamy firm cheese called Ariège Toudeille is made in a village two hours from Toulouse, and one cheese in particular is a Toulousain creation – Pavé Toulousain. A speciality made by the fromagerie Xavier just outside the market, the cheese’s unmissable cube shape and edible grey rind resembles a brick, yet the inside, made from raw cow’s milk, is smooth with a somewhat crunchy texture.

Sandwiches

When it comes to making sandwiches, the French are professionals. The sublime baguette avec jambon et beurre served with cornichons epitomises the rustic simplicity of French cuisine, and you can find such a sandwich at Le Détaillant. This little sandwich shop couldn’t exist anywhere else as it combines ingredients of the local terroir with those of our neighbour, Spain. The delicatessen boasts a bounty of quality chorizo, serrano ham and Manchego, as well as, naturally, dried duck as a tribute to its Toulousain roots.

Vegetarian food

If you’re vegetarian, you might be wondering if you’ll starve during your visit to Toulouse. While meat receives a lot of love and attention, I promise not all restaurants are L’Aubrac! If you need a break from the region’s richness, no one could blame you, and there is plenty of choice for vegetarians and vegans, including French food at La Maison de Vélo which offers a simple ever-changing menu including one meat, fish and vegetarian option.

Pastries

At last, the dessert course! If you always have room for dessert, then Toulouse has you covered. While the focus is on the savoury side of life, the city’s many pâtisseries and tea shops beg to differ. Cakes beckon from café windows and the act of eating a sweet pick-me-up is a serious pastime here. Try Flower’s Café or Salon d’Eugénie for a coffee and an afternoon sweet treat or visit Poussin Bleu or Le Pâtisserie Conté for éclairs and other impressive patisserie to eat on the go.

Chocolatines

This is a controversial topic! In the south of France, pain au chocolats are called chocolatines. Most of the time, if you walk into a boulangerie and mistakenly ask for a pain au chocolat, you’ll be forgiven, but if you’re a stubborn Parisian who is trying to make a point, then things could get feisty! Keep your eyes open for the chocolatines that are crisp and glossy, packed with those painstakingly folded layers – my recommendation is to try Le Péché Mignon.

Fruit and vegetables

After all the pastries, cheese and of course, meat, you’ll be waddling to the airport! However, we can’t forget that Toulouse is in the south of France and has the perfect weather for growing fruit and vegetables. Throughout the summer, peaches, apricots and nectarines adorn market shelves before figs and plums in the colours of a traffic light appear in the autumn, ripe and perfect. Next time you find yourself at a market, take a peek at the fruit and vegetables and I promise, you won’t be disappointed.

Toulouse has something for all tastes!

Ally Mitchell is a blogger and freelance writer, specialising in food and recipes. Ally left the UK to live in Toulouse in 2021 and now writes about her new life in France on her food blog NigellaEatsEverything.

Where the locals eat out in Toulouse

This article was first published in The Good Life France Magazine

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Gascony is one of the most beautiful, unspoiled and authentic areas of France. It stretches between several departments of southwest France, Landes, Pyrénées-Atlantiques, southwestern Gironde, and southern Lot-et-Garonne. Each department very different from each other but having in common the Gascon culture, fabulous gastronomy, wines, and a long, rich history. Sue Aran of French Country Adventures shares ten of her favourite jewels of Gascony…

IIrouléguy

Irouléguy is a small Basque village in Lower Navarre in the Pyrénées-Atlantiques department. Its delicious wines are grown in one of the smallest vineyards in France, the only one in the French Basque country. The history of the vineyard is linked to the pilgrimage to Saint Jacques-de- Compostelle. Monks from the monastery of Roncesvalles,  planted vines around the old Saint-Vincent church in the village of Irouléguy for a wine intended for pilgrims. After the signing of the Treaty of the Pyrenees (1659), which formalized peace between Spain and France, the monks left their vineyard to the inhabitants of the village who continued production. After the phylloxera wine epidemic, and WWI, a group of farmers created the cooperative cellar of Saint-Étienne-de-Baïgorry, and continued producing their wine, eventually earning Irouléguy its prized AOC classification in 1970.

Jurançon

The Jurançon is an area west of Pau. Its landscape consist of narrow valleys and breathtaking views of the Pyrenees Mountains. Jurançon is one of King Henri IV’s favorite wines, grown along the hillsides on the southern banks of the Gave de Pau covering 1,000 hectares. It is still considered the wine of Kings and still served at important events. There are 2 AOC Jurançon wines, the Jurançon sec (dry) and the Jurançon molleux.(sweet). A visit to the nearby Chateau de Pau is a must-see. King Henri IV’s chambers, where he was born, are on the 2nd floor.

Kakouetta Gorge

With a length of a little less than four kilometers, this stunning gorge has been developed for a kilometer and a half of public access. The visit can only be done at low water, generally from July 1 to the end of September. Their depth reaches thirty to three hundred and fifty meters. In some places only a few meters separate the two sides of the gorge.. A twenty-meter waterfall and a cave are at the end of the route. The gorge offers a beautiful landscape for nature lovers. Mosses, lichens, and ferns are so abundant that the area resembles tropical microclimate.

Lourdes

Lourdes is a city nestled in the foothills of the Pyrenees Mountains, in the department of the Haute-Pyrenees. For 159 years, millions of the faithful from all over the world have flocked to Lourdes, where, it is said, the sick can be healed miraculously. Known worldwide as a Catholic pilgrimage site, each year, millions of people visit the Massabielle cave where, in 1858, the Virgin Mary was thought to appear to a young, local girl, Bernadette. There are 52 hectares of property and 22 places of worship that comprise the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Lourdes.

Marciac

This 13th century bastide village boats the tallest church steeple in the Gers, standing at an impressive 293 ft. It has a lively Wednesday market and a handful of restaurants tucked under its arcaded square. It’s is also, most famously, the home to one of the largest Jazz festivals in Europe. The event runs from the last weekend in July to the end of August. The festival hosts internationally renowned musicians and singers including in the past, Wynton Marsalis and Norah Jones.

Nérac

Built on a Gallo-Roman villa along both banks of the Baïse River, Nérac prospered as the favorite summer residence of King Henri IV. He is said to be the most beloved king of France. It is the land of the Albret family, one of the most powerful in Aquitain. Jeanne d’Albret was the mother of Henri IV. The remains of his impressive chateau, are now a museum. Nérac has fine examples of colombage, regionally distinct, half-timbered buildings, as well as the Parc Royal de la Garenne, once a royal hunting ground. This was the inspirational setting for Shakespeare’s Love’s Labours Lost. The Saturday market is the best in the Lot-et-Garonne department.

The city of Nérac, in the Lot-et-Garonne department, once home to Henry IV’s court, bears little resemblance to its former bucolic beauty. It is though, one of the most attractive larger villages in the region. The Chateau of Henri IV is open daily for visits in the heart of the centre ville. You can also visit the Chateau de Pau, birthplace of King Henri IV. It sits high on a hill in the town of Pau, overlooking the Pyrenees Mountains in the Pyrénées-Atlantique department.

Saints and Churches

Situated in the Quartier du Mas, on the outskirts of the village of Aire-sur-l’Adour, The St. Quitterie church was active from the 12th-18th century for pilgrims on the Saintt Jacque-des-Compostelle route to Spain. Named for Saint Quitterie or Quiteria was a young virgin of noble Visigoth blood. She chose to die rather than deny her faith. According to a medieval manuscript from the 12th century, she was decapitated around 477. Legend says she carried her head in her hands to the pagan sanctuary of Mas d’Aire (now a fountain) above the church which bears her name

Its crypt was originally built over a Roman temple to the god Mars, venerated because of the presence of a “magical” source dedicated to Quiteria. The Church sanctified places of pagan worship in order to be able to claim ancient sites and drive out paganism. Tours can be arranged by calling the church directly.

Séviac

One of the largest Gallo-Roman archeological sites in Gascony. It covers more than 2 hectares and is located below the village of Montréal du Gers. Excavations uncovered a classic villa dating from the 2nd century. It is complete with a thermal bath complex, and beautiful, multi-colored mosaics. There are also remains of a Merovigian baptistry and sanctuary dating from the 6th century.

Terraube

A medieval village that once belonged entirely to Hector de Galard, a renowned warrior during the Hundred Year’s War. His face is represented as the Jack of Diamonds in the French pack of playing cards. In France all face cards are representations of historical figures. Terraube has an infamous well. It’s reputed to be the opening salvo in the Wars of Religion, after all of the local Protestant men were stuffed down it never to be seen again. During the spring and early summer, fields of Lectoure’s cantaloupe melons surround the village.

Urrugne

The Pays Basque village of Urrugne stretches from the ocean along the beautiful Basque Corniche to the first mountains of the Pyrenees. The village has managed to preserve its traditions and its architecture. From the village, a winding road leads to the pilgrimage church of Notre Dame-des-Socorri. And to the Parc Floral Florenia, covering 45 acres with over 30,000 trees and millions of flowers.

Villa Arnega

In the Pays Basque village of Cambo-les-Bains, Villa Arnega was the home to Edmund Rostand, dramatist of the play, Cyrano de Bergerac. The house displays mementos from his life in Paris at the turn of the 20th century. It has a splendid, 18th century style French garden.

Yquem – a magnificent 16^th century chateau wine estate. It once belonged to the King of England, then passed to the Duke of Aquitaine when this area became part of France. It’s located south of Bordeaux, near the charming, historic village of Bazas, on the highest hill in the famed Sauterne region. This magnificent building offers both charm, refinement, and beauty in an exceptional landscape.

Read the petite guide to Gascony, an A-Z of the region’s history and sites, in our free digital magazine The Good Life France

Discover the most amazing tours of Gascony at FrenchCountryAdventures

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