Discover the stylish seaside resort La Baule – and La Brière, its wetland neighbour in Pays de la Loire.

Beach resorts can get pretty crowded on a summer Saturday, but head down to the waterfront at La Baule and there’s plenty of space for everyone. Tucked into a curve of the coastline just north of the Loire estuary, La Baule-Escoublac – to give the town its full name – boasts a glorious arc of golden sand stretching for nine seductive kilometres between the headlands of Le Pouliguen and Pornichet.

Turn your back on the sea however and just a few miles inland lies a very different watery landscape. The Parc Naturel Régional de la Brière is France’s second largest wetland area after the Camargue, bordered by the river Loire and the shipyards of Saint-Nazaire to the south, the Vilaine river and Brittany to the north. Stay in La Baule and you can enjoy a wide range of aquatic activities in, on and beside the water.

The history of La Baule

I arrive by car from the walled town and salt marshes of neighbouring Guérande. Barely 6 km apart, they make a dramatic contrast. One a medieval city with lofty ramparts and towers; the other, a modern resort of low-rise buildings and seaside villas. And what villas!

Today’s resort grew out of the humble village of Escoublac which holds the dubious distinction of having to move inland to escape the onslaught of sand blown in from the dunes. In 1779, this once coastal community shifted away from the shore, but gradually the dunes were stabilised with planting schemes and in the 1830s, tourists began to trickle in from Saint-Nazaire to nearby Pornichet and Le Croisic.

Fast forward to the 1880s, the arrival of the railway and a growing fashion for sea bathing. Two Parisian entrepreneurs involved with the railway – Jules-Joseph Hennecart and Edouard Darlu – quickly saw the potential of Escoublac as a new holiday resort. So they bought up 40 hectares of dunes at La Bôle, enlisted the help of local businessmen, and laid a broad avenue from the station to the sea. Renamed Avenue du Général de Gaulle in 1945, it is now one of the town’s main streets for shopping and restaurants.

More amenities followed and soon wealthy buyers were investing in plots to build their own holiday villas. In 1896, the resort was renamed La Baule and despite the dips in fortunes created by two World Wars, the town has grown steadily to be one of the most popular resorts on the Atlantic Coast.

La Baule’s sea front villas were sadly redeveloped during the post-war years in what can only be seen now as a tragedy of urban planning. Great if you want a holiday apartment with your feet in the ocean, but completely lacking in atmosphere. Go behind the bland sea front architecture however and you immediately step back a century.

What to see and do in La Baule

Today there are few nicer urban strolls than meandering along La Baule’s pine-scented Allées and Avenues to peer through garden gates and over ornamental walls at the eclectic mix of flamboyant properties, 15 of them given protected status for their exceptional architecture. Each villa is different in style, from half-timbered ‘Anglo-Normand’ mansions to Art Deco splendour and medieval fantasies. And each one has a name, often in Breton, La Baule originally being part of Brittany rather than Pays de la Loire.

I stop first outside Villa Symbol, built in 1881 in Anglo-Normand style and the private home of architect Georges Lafont. An eye-catching combination of stone and timber, curved roof lines and embellished spire, it was the first grand villa that visitors would see as they came out from the station, a great advertisement for the 250 properties that Lafont would go on to design in the town.

Close by, I come across Coq de Roche, a classic example of Art Deco style with its whitewashed facades and red shutters, flat roof and metal balconies. La Baule’s many thousands of trees are also protected, but only a handful of properties can boast their original gardens and, as at Villa Saint-Charles, an outdoor gallery where 19^th century visitors would sit to inhale the clean air, often to recover from TB.

I soak up the period atmosphere at Hôtel Saint-Christophe, a 4-star hotel composed of four individual villas dating from the early 1900s. Just a short walk from the beach and boutiques, it’s a great place to sample the good life with individually designed bedrooms and stylish public rooms. After an aperitif in the hotel’s shady garden, I stroll to Place du Maréchal Leclerc for dinner in the garden of Le M. This popular bistro takes its name from the shape of the two steep roofs of what were once adjoining shops. Across the square stands St Anne’s Chapel, the first public building erected in La Baule. Now an exhibition centre, it was commissioned by M Hennecart, a deeply religious man whose widow was so incensed at the opening of a casino that she left La Baule, never to return.

Le Croisic

I walk home along the sea front as the sun sinks over the calm ocean and watch families, friends and even horse riders make the most of a balmy evening on the beach. And after a blissfully quiet night, I head west out of La Baule next morning for the short drive along the south side of the Guérande salt pans. Time to spare? Hire an electric bike instead from Le Pouliguen Bikevasion to visit Le Croisic, Batz-sur-Mer and maybe the Grand Blockhaus Museum, a World War II bunker that tells the story of the Saint-Nazaire Pocket.

Now designated a Petite Cité de Caractère of the Loire-Atlantique department, Le Croisic stands on the headland where the ocean flows through a narrow gap into the salt marshes. Enjoy a drink beside the marina or at a café table in the pretty town centre; visit the Océarium sea life centre; and pay homage to the seafront statue of Pierre Bouguer, 18^th century scientist, mathematician and astronomer.

Brière Regional Natural Park

Swapping salt water for fresh, I turn the car inland to explore the Brière Regional Natural Park or PNR. Nicknamed the Pays Noir or Black Country because of its rich peat reserves, this freshwater marshland is bisected by 140 km of canals navigable by flat-bottomed boat. Peat is no longer harvested, but the marsh is used for livestock, hunting and fishing. Find out more about the flora, fauna and traditional way of life in the showpiece hamlet of Kerhinet near Saint-Lyphard, its single street fringed by thatched cottages housing craft businesses and displays.

Then take a short drive to the cluster of cottages that make up the tiny Port de Bréca, departure point for discovery trips by boat or on board a horse-drawn wagon. If you’re feeling energetic, hire a rowing boat, but I can recommend the guided tour from L’Arche Briéronne with a knowledgeable local guide who will punt you through the canals whilst explaining the fragile ecosystem of this magical wetland.

Beyond the marsh, the cranes of Saint-Nazaire’s busy shipyards are clearly visible on the horizon, but here at water level, life moves at a gentle pace, much as it has for centuries. La Baule … La Brière … two very different water worlds that combine to make a unique and addictive double-act.

Tourist information from www.labaule-guerande.com

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Pitch up at any one of Guérande’s four town gates and there’s no question that you’ve arrived somewhere rather special. With 1300 metres of unbroken ramparts and six imposing towers, the city walls are some of the best preserved in France and the most complete in Brittany.

The masonry looks pretty impressive now in the 21^st century, an age when we are all used to big builds, so imagine the impact that Guérande would have had in the mid-14^th century when the walls were commissioned by Jean de Montfort during the Breton War of Succession. This was clearly a town that meant business.

White gold – the salt marshes of Guérande

And the main business of this strategic community built on high ground near the Atlantic coast was salt. Today Guérande is part of the Pays de la Loire region, but until 1941 it was part of Brittany, and Brittany in the 14^th century was an independent and powerful Duchy. Only in 1532 did it become part of France with the marriage of Anne de Bretagne and Charles VIII.

Guérande controlled the salt marshes and with them a commodity as important to medieval daily life as refrigerators are to us today, the prime means of preserving food stocks. By the end of the 14^th century, Guérande was the second-largest town in Brittany after Nantes with some 4,000 inhabitants and some 500 years later, I can still sense the power contained within these solid ramparts as I step through Porte Saint-Michel into another world.

A visit to Guérande divides neatly into two halves.  The walled town with its half-timbered buildings and historic streets, retail temptations and restaurants. And the extensive salt marshes fed by a narrow inlet from the Atlantic Ocean at Le Croisic. The two are inextricably linked, so be sure to see them both.

The town of Guérande

Guérande’s ramparts were classified as a Historic Monument in 1877 and today the town is also part of the Villes & Pays d’Art et d’Histoire network. Stop off at the Château-Musée inside the Porte Saint-Michel, which has served over the centuries as ducal lodgings, prison and Town Hall. The only site open to the public inside the wall itself, this medieval gem also provides access to more than a third of the rampart walk where you can peep over chimneys and rooftops into hidden gardens and cobbled alleys.

Then just wander – it’s impossible to get lost. The walled town is divided roughly into quarters by two main streets that intersect outside Saint-Aubin Collegiate Church, its slate-clad spire visible from all around. History unfolds at every corner if you keep your eyes open. The outside pulpit beside the main door of the church. The ancient buildings around Place du Pillori. And the walled Manoir de la Prévôté, home to the medieval Provost, highest ranking dignitary among the canons of the collegiate church.

After a succulent salad on the terrace outside Gout’Thé, a delightful tea room and small shop in Rue de Saillé, I head outside the city walls to Pradel on the edge of the salt marshes and the Terre de Sel visitor centre to discover how traditional methods of salt production are still in use today. Open daily throughout the year, this excellent facility includes an exhibition and well-stocked shop, and is the departure point for guided walking tours of the salt pans (advance online booking strongly advised).

The art of salt production

Generations of salters or paludiers, have shaped and managed the landscape here for almost 1500 years and in 1991, Guérande salt was awarded the prestigious Label Rouge. In winter and spring, the marshes are quiet as salters carry out maintenance ready for peak production season. Our English-speaking guide explains to our small group how the salters fill their reservoirs by opening sluice gates on the main canal to admit the strong spring tides. The water then runs into a series of shallow pools and eventually evaporates from the effect of wind and sun, causing the salt to crystallise.

The result is two different kinds of salt, painstakingly removed by hand using long-handled implements. The coarse grey salt (Gros Sel), rich in minerals, is scraped daily from the bottom of the pools, whilst the fine white Fleur de Sel is collected from the surface of the brine. As a general rule, use Gros Sel in cooking and Fleur de Sel at the table for that extra special salty tang. Mash potato and fries just aren’t the same without it, so I take the opportunity to stock up – slow food at its most pedestrian.

Salt production is a highly skilled operation and Terre de Sel is run as a co-operative, many salt pans passed down through generations of the same family. But a significant number of new paludiers are being attracted to this ancient way of life in a peaceful, natural environment that is home to more than 180 species of bird.

I stay overnight at the charming Moulin de Beaulieu, a three-storey, one bedroom windmill just outside the ramparts (unsuitable though for anyone with mobility issues). And for dinner, enjoy an al fresco meal at Burger et Sarrasin beside the cathedral, a delicious Breton take on the humble burger using local produce and with a choice of special bread containing sarrasin or buckwheat.

What to see near Guérande

Next morning, I potter along the coast to La Turballe, a major centre for sardine canneries until 1989 and still France’s 10^th biggest fishing port. Take a guided tour from the Maison de la Pêche museum to visit the fish auction rooms on the quayside; step on board a 1960s sardine boat, Au Gré des Vents; and learn about France’s first offshore wind farm, the Parc Eolien en mer de Saint-Nazaire.

I also explore nearby Piriac-sur-Mer, designated a Petite Cité de Caractère of Loire-Atlantique, where granite houses face onto narrow flower-fringed streets behind a tranquil marina. Head the other way and you’re just a short drive from the stylish seaside resort of La Baule and the tranquil wetland of La Brière Regional Natural Park, both well worth a stopover. Join me there in the Spring issue of the magazine to see why…

Tourist information from www.labaule-guerande.com

By Gillian Thornton, one of the UK’s leading travel writers and a regular writer for The Good Life France Magazine and website.

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Expect the unexpected in the hometown of author Jules Verne.

I hear the animal long before I see it. A loud bellowing sound that echoes through the rafters of the old industrial buildings beside the river Loire. Far from running away, the family in front of me start running towards the noise, and I find myself running with them. After all, nobody wants to miss the famous Grand Elephant of Nantes in motion.

We catch up with the huge mechanical pachyderm as it lumbers past a giant three-tier carousel of sea creatures – a tribute to Jules Verne, author of Twenty Thousand Leagues under the Sea. The elephant waves its trunk from side to side, and I duck behind the assembled crowd to avoid a hefty spray of water. It is, for adults as well as children, all huge fun.

The quirky city of Nantes

I’ve only been here a few hours, but already I’ve learnt that Nantes is a city of surprises. Once a throbbing centre of shipyards, sugar refineries, and biscuit factories, Nantes saw its economy crumble in 1987 with the closure of the shipyards and other related industries.

But today France’s sixth largest city is famous for reinventing itself with a unique USP as an arts and culture city. And much of it is free to enjoy. Nantes wears its art on its sleeve with a permanent collection of 128 artworks in public spaces from the city centre along the Loire estuary and through the nearby Muscadet vineyards, not to mention its rich museum collections.

So how much can you pack into a short break? The city is served by 23 daily TGV trains from Paris, but I arrive by car on a touring holiday, leaving my vehicle in a secure public car park just five minutes’ walk from the Hotel Voltaire Opera. This 3-star boutique hotel in a 19^th century town house stands in the elegant Graslin district, close to the Passage Pommeraye, a glorious period shopping arcade on three levels.

The local tram system is regular and reliable, but the city centre is very walkable too.  Buy a Pass Nantes for free access to public transport as well as a wealth of must-see sites for 24, 48 or 72 hours.

Day One

First thing I do is pick up the Green Line in the city centre. Not a bus or tram network but a coloured line painted on the pavement to link the eclectic mix of artworks that make up The Permanent Voyage. Every summer since 2012, this trail is supplemented in July and August by Le Voyage à Nantes, a temporary outdoor exhibition of new artworks.

There is something here for everyone. A suited gentleman stepping sideways off a plinth; a green urban jungle in a once rundown courtyard; and a stone beaver on ancient masonry. Look out for almost 30 quirky shop signs and a line of concentric riverside rings that frame the cityscape. Every bend in the trail reveals a new surprise.

Capital of the Loire-Atlantique department, Nantes has come under the Pays de la Loire region since 1941, but before that was part of Brittany. In the heart of the city’s medieval quarter stands the imposing Castle of the Dukes of Brittany, started in the 15^th century under Francois II, last duke of an independent Brittany, and continued under his daughter Anne, twice Queen of France.

Today it makes an atmospheric home for the city’s excellent History Museum, which covers four major themes including the castle itself, two World Wars, and the city’s industrial past. I’m particularly impressed by the section on colonial economy and Nantes’ role in the Atlantic slave trade. The city confronts this period of its history full on, as can also be seen on Quai de la Fosse in the underground Memorial to the Abolition of Slavery, the only one of its kind in Europe.

I’m drawn also to the section on – big contrast here – biscuits! Who knew that Nantes is the home of the beloved Petit Beurre and the LU biscuit brand, once manufactured in a flamboyant quayside factory that has since been repurposed as the Lieu Unique cultural centre?

From the castle, I stroll through the lush Botanic Garden, where I can’t resist a Kodak moment beneath a giant park bench, and enjoy the indoor highlights of the Arts Museum, before walking back through the elegant pedestrian shopping streets ready for dinner.

I’m booked in at La Cigale, in the Cambronne district, a stunning Art Nouveau brasserie opposite the Opera house and a city institution since 1895 with its gilt-framed mirrors and plush décor. Expect smiling bilingual staff in traditional black and white uniforms and classic brasserie fare in a buzzing environment. A worthy listing in the excellent free gastro guide, Les Tables de Nantes.

Day two

I start my second day on the west side of town in the village atmosphere of the Chantenay Quarter, once a working-class district of shipyards and factories, and now undergoing an urban makeover with kitchen gardens and artworks. On the left bank opposite lies Trentemoult, accessible by shuttle boat from the Gare Maritime. Once a village of fishermen and sailors, this cute community is now popular for its bright facades, street art and guinguette taverns.

From the town centre however, you only need cross a bridge to reach the Ile de Nantes and the 13-hectare Parc des Chantiers, a former shipyard that has been gradually transformed since 2007 into a place where locals come to relax and play.  Artworks are everywhere as you follow the Green Line through the Creative Campus, and past the 300-seat Cantine du Voyage, a riverside summer eatery made of removable greenhouses.

But the big draw amongst the restored slipways is Les Machines de L’Ile, mechanical creatures inspired by Jules Verne, Leonardo Da Vinci, and by the industrial history of Nantes. I love the giant spider, the chameleon, and the sloth in the live show Galerie, but the biggest draw here is the Grand Elephant, 12 metres high and carrying 50 passengers for a 30-minute ride.  Truly a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

And don’t miss a ride on the Carrousel des Mondes Marins, Jules Verne moved to Paris and later to Amiens, but always found inspiration in Nantes and wrote Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Seas during regular return visits.

More major projects are already on the cards. The reopening of the cathedral, closed since 2020 following a fire. A makeover for the Archaeological Museum. And a new centre on the Chantenay quayside dedicated to Jules Verne.

I finish my city stay with a gastronomic treat at Pickles, a cosy restaurant run by English chef Dominic Quirke in a quiet street close to the city centre. Menus are changed every three weeks, always with the aim of reducing our meat and fish consumption. The ingredients aren’t fancy but the sublime way in which this former IT expert blends local produce together is a holiday memory to savour.

‘I’ve been here ten years and now other chefs are staring to do something similar, so I’m constantly looking for ways to offer something new,’ Dominic tells me with the air of one who quietly relishes the challenge. It’s a philosophy that seems to perfectly reflect the spirit of this enchanting city. Who knows what I’ll find on my next visit?

Useful websites: www.levoyageanantes.fr; www.hotelvoltaireoperanantes.com; www.lacigale.com; www.pickles-restaurant.com

By Gillian Thornton, one of the UK’s leading travel writers and a regular writer for The Good Life France Magazine and website.

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The Loir Valley is situated between Le Mans, Tours, Laval and Angers. The little Loir, a cousin of the larger Loire, into which the river flows, means ‘dormouse’. This conjures a very apt description of the area. Sleepy, rolling countryside, with charming villages and enchanting towns that seem to belong to a past era when life was less busy and complicated.

The Loir Valley, like it’s neighbour, is brimming with chateaux. There are more than 140 private and privately-owned châteaux and manor houses. Most of them were rebuilt after the Hundred Years War, several were built in the second half of the 15th century and the Renaissance and many have the most glorious gardens. There are also some wonderful wide open spaces, perfect for those who love to get close to nature…

Bike and hike

The Loir Valley has introduced two new exciting cycle routes. ‘Unforgettable – Zoo and Castle’ is 48.5km long and follows the ‘green route’ between Baugé-en-Anjou, La Flèche and the commune of Clefs-Val-d’Anjou. It is a very pretty, sign-posted route that also passes two amazing castles – the Châteaux du Lude and de Baugé. The latter is famous for its outstanding seventeenth century pharmacy that still contains many lotions and potions from that period, including goats’ blood, woodlouse powder or mummified fingers!  Also unmissable on this route is the amazing Zoo of La Flèche.

“Between Stone and Marsh” is a 36 km cycle route along an old railway line. From La Flèche to Clefs-Val d’Anjou and Fougeré, you’ll ride past manor houses and beautiful residences. Take the return path through the Cré-sur-Loir marshes.

For bike hire, including electric bikes and safety items, just pop into the local tourist office of La Flèche or La Chartre-sur-le-Loir

Walkers will love the 98km Gr de Pays. This marvellous hiking route is split into five different parts. Stroll through vineyards, orchards, the forest itself of course, and picturesque villages.

Cré-sur-Loir Marshes

The Cré-sur-Loir Marshes carry the Natural Reserves of France label. The variety of flora and fauna is outstanding. Discover reeds, alluvial woods and wet meadowlands on three different trails from a kilometre to 2.7 kilometres. Pick up a free discovery pack in the tourist office of Loir Valley!

Leisure Lakes

Take to the water in summer! At Mansigné, Marcon and the lovely La Monnerie just outside of La Flèche you’ll find tons of water sports. Sailing, canoeing, kayaking, pedalos, paddle boarding, swimming, whilst beach volleyball, beach football, cycling, hiking, kite flying, tennis, archery, orienteering, even boomeranging can also be enjoyed.

The archeological site of Cherré

Cherré, between Le Lude and Vaas, in Aubigné-Racan, is where you’ll find the remains of an ancient theatre built in Gallo-Roman times – 1st – 3rd centuries. In a semi-circular form, it shows us the three divisions of a Greco-Roman theatre: stage, orchestra, Koilon. According to archaeologists, this theatre must have stood at more than twelve metres and could hold 3,000 spectators. It is completely free to visit, and guided tours are provided on request.

Château du Lude

The monumental Château du Lude spans four centuries of French architecture. It was revamped in the 19th century in the neo-Gothic style, when an English Garden was added with a botanical walk. Mme La Comtesse de Nicolay, the current incumbent, has developed a particularly successful permaculture as well as now using the produce of the orchards and gardens too to make jams and pickles that are sold to visitors. The Rose Garden has a rare collection of blooms that flower anytime between May and December.

The exceptional Bercé Forest

The Bercé Forest covers more than 3,000 hectares of oaks and 2,400 hectares of conifers producing the highest quality timber – particularly sought after in the barrel making industry. It is a great place for sporting activities such as cycling, walking, hiking, horse-riding and mountain biking.

Vauboin Priory Hortus Conclusus – Jardin Remarquable

The contemporary gardens of the Vauboin Priory have received the Jardin Remarquable label from the Ministry of Culture. This green wonder is the result of the work of a passionate gardener who describes himself as a “natural art sculptor”. The two staggering gardens surround a fourteenth century cottage at the foot of a limestone hill with a hundred year old box plantation.

Caroline Terrace, an architectural folly

What an amazing gift of love! Amédée de Nonnant, the owner of Château de Poncé, ordered the building, in 1830, a neo-gothic styled terrace (The Caroline Terrace) in honour of his wife Caroline. This three-level brick and stone construction is set against a tufa cliff and behind the Renaissance Style Château.

A veritable hidden gem

There’s more to the little Loir without the “e” than you might think…

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Situated in southwest France, in the department of Loire-Atlantique, region Pays de la Loire, Nantes was once the capital of Brittany. It was independent from France and home to one of the country’s largest ports.

Although not directly accessed by the sea, the city’s strategic historic location on the confluence of the Loire and Erdre rivers gained the city its historical nickname of Venice of the West’ (La Venise de l’Ouest). The rivers are what made Nantes a thriving city with a solid base for ship building and traders arriving from far away.

Today, parts of the river system have been reclaimed for modern roads and tramways. Large steel cranes and the dry docks are the only remains of its former industrial glory. And, Nantes continues to evolve, transforming spaces where factories and warehouses once stood into creative and leisure facilities, implementing innovative ways to enhance the joie de vivre of the city.

There’s a great balance of preserving the past whilst introducing the future and ensuring residents have a good quality of life. It is no wonder that Nantes has consistently been voted one of the top three best places to live in France. And, its why Nantes makes a great weekend getaway.

The Machines de L’Île

Ready to channel your inner child? Cross the river to Île de Nantes and enjoy a ride on the Grand Elephant or play with the sea creatures on The Carrousel des Mondes Marins. You can’t help but smile at the mechanical fairy-tales of The Machines de L’Île.

The park was born from the imagination of Francois Delaroziere and Pierre Orefice. The Machines de L’Île brings to life the fantastical stories of French novelist Jules Verne. It also pays homage to the industrial heritage of the city. At the Gallery, mechanical caterpillars and cranes wow visitors. And, don’t miss out on a visit to the workshop where the magic happens. It is guaranteed fun for the young, and the young at heart.

Follow the green line

Every year during summer months, there’s a trail of creative discoveries so that visitors and locals can explore the city and

find surprises en route. Indicated by a lime green paint line running along the streets, The Voyage à Nantes is a 12 km trail that zigzags in and out of elegant squares. It takes in major sites as well as back-streets. You’ll uncover unexpected works of art dotted around the city. They might include a stackable chair roller-coaster, tree climbing bears or random sculptures.

Look out for the Micro’Home by Myrtille Drouet on Rue Du Puits-d’Argent. The quirky house is 5m above ground, at 2m wide it contains a living room/kitchen, bathroom and bedroom. It’s an imaginative way of life in the city and you can actually stay in it too. Book with www.nantes-tourisme.com

Artists have reinvented shop signs as imaginative interpretations, injecting fun into shopping. Whenever there is a painted eye along the green line, you’re sure to find a surprise above. Most art installations are temporary, but some are so loved by locals they have become permanent fixtures.

Château des ducs de Bretagne

Dominating the historic Bouffay quarter is the former residence and fortress of the last Duke of Brittany, François II and his daughter Anne of Brittany. She is famous for being twice Queen of France, having married Charles VIII and Louis XII. After the integration of Brittany into French rule in the 1532, the château became a residence for the kings of France.

Today, the château, a monumental landmark, is home to the Musee d’Histoire de Nantes (Nantes History Museum). The museum divides its exhibitions into themes. From the Roman conquerors through its Brittany connections, the World Wars to the city’s industrial heritage, as well as the dark history of the slave trade. It is a part of the city’s past that it has found hard to come to terms with, much of the population are descendants of both traders and slaves. The museum aims to educate locals and visitors. There is also a memorial, a walkway dug into the shores of the river Loire featuring historical and geographical information, statistics, maps and timelines, as well as testimonials etched into its glass walls.

The memorial is open to public for free and makes a solemn follow up after learning about the slave trade at the history museum. memorial.nantes.fr

Trentemoult neighbourhood

Cross the Loire on the Navibus ferry and alight in the colourful Trentemoult neighbourhood, an old fishing village. It’s a brilliantly artistic and gastronomic detour. Locals love to come here to dine and socialise, to enjoy the vintage atmosphere and watch the sun set over the Loire. The narrow streets are bright, the buildings appear haphazardly piled together giving it a quirky charm, and it’s home to around 20 professional artists.

Le Lieu Unique

This is the only remaining tower of what was once the Lu biscuit factory, today, Le Lieu Unique is a space for individual expression. Have a drink at the bar, enjoy a night out at the theatre, browse for a book at the library or relax with a spa treatment at the hammam: www.lelieuunique.com

Gastronomic Delights

Locals Love: Creperie Heb-Ken. A friendly, no-fuss popular creperie in the centre of the Graslin Quarter with an extensive menu of crepes for all tastes from savoury to sweet, it is always busy! Get there early or risk a long wait. The patio is especially pleasant in the summer. www.heb-ken.fr

La Civellet: On the waterfront of the Trentemoult neighbourhood, excellent seasonal French dishes in a lively atmosphere. Worth crossing the river for. www.la-civelle.com

Wine and Dine – Brasserie la Cigale. It is impossible to walk past this brasserie without stopping to peek. Brasserie la Cigale on the Gralin Square was once the headquarters of the city’s Surrealists and is today a popular gastronomic destination. The seafood platter is seriously impressive as is the elegant interior: www.lacigale.com

Indulge your sweet tooth: Maison Georges Larnicol – MOF: A famous Biscuiterie Chocolaterie in the Pommeraye Passage shopping mall. The sweet scent of their pastries fill the air. Don’t miss the ‘gâteau nantais’, an almond based cake with rum – a Nantes speciality and their Kouign Amann cakes are the best! larnicol.com

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The food scene in Le Mans catches most people out – in a good way! If you thought Le Mans was a town you go to just to watch a world-famous race, think again. There’s lots to see and do here and you might be suprised to learn it has one of the prettiest medieval towns in France.

But back to food.

Here are some of our favourite restaurants in Le Mans and a taster of what you’ll find there to whet your appetite…

Wine and dine in Le Mans

Don’t miss the chance to taste Jasnières wine while you’re in Le Mans, it’s rarely seen outside the local area and is absolutely delicious. It’s not made in huge quantities and the locals keep most of it to themselves, so stock up at the 15th century Cave de Pedro – a feast for the senses in the Pont-Lieu district of the old town. Wine master Pedro has a brilliantly stocked shop, not just wine but local specialities too.

Where to take a pit stop in Le Mans!

Wine and Dine: Auberge de Bagatelle. This Michelin starred restaurant serves food that looks amazing and tastes even better. Located in an old inn that’s been exquisitely renovated, Chef Jean-Sébastien Monné creates dishes that you don’t forget in a hurry. The lunch “Pleasure” menu is incredibly good value at just 32 Euros for 2 courses, 38 Euros for 3 courses (2019) – seriously, you don’t want to miss a course – each one is mouth-watering delicious. Push the boat out with the 6 course tasting menu – utterly delectable.

Locals love: Café du Jet d’Eau, next to the Cathedral at the  base of the Escalier du Jet d’Eau. Locals were devastated when this much loved local cafe closed for a short while and when it was reopened in 2015, there was celebration! It’s the perfect place to relax for market shoppers and watching the world go by. A plate of oysters, tangy cheeses, crunchy baguette and classic French dishes in a bustling and welcoming atmosphere. Great for a coffee stop, aperitifs, lunch and dinner!

Fun and friendly: La Ciboulette (14 rue Vielle-Porte) is charming, authentic and fun. The seasonal menu is popular with the locals.

Luscious lunch stop: Head to the Domaine de l’Epau around 10km from the centre of town (you can go via tram). Enjoy the picturesque countryside and then indulge in a delicious lunch at restaurant Le Verger. There’s a firm emphasis on organic and seasonal here.

Snack-attack: For something a bit different, the 13th century Royal Abbey of Epau (next door to the Domaine de l’Epau) really fits the bill. Great for a tour of the monumental abbey and beautiful grounds just a few minutes from Le Mans town centre (easy to reach by tram). And, Sylvie in the cafe makes exceedingly good cakes. Sitting outside in the sunshine, enjoying a light lunch, cake, coffee and drinking in the sight of this ancient building and its grounds = fantastic.

Wine O’Clock

Looking for a drink after dark? Head to Le Verre Tige bistro and brewery in the medieval old district. Lovely friendly staff are happy to advise on wine and dishes. Sit on the terrace on a fine evening or stay cosy inside in this ancient building when it’s chily. (48, Grande-Rue).

Food specialities of Le Mans

Indulge your sweet tooth at biscuit shop La Sablésienne (6 Rue de la Perle). Perfect for a souvenir, if they make it home in one piece!

Chocolate heaven: Bellanger offer cooking lessons and the most irresistible chocolates and sweet treats (2 rue de l’Etoille).

Cake my day: Takayanagi has the locals queuing up. Japanese Chef Takayanagi says: “Cakes are simple, but complex; I create French cakes but with Japanese influences”. For instance in this shop you can get a Paris-Tokyo, rather than a Paris-Brest. They serve a traditional Japanese lunch here so, head to the little shop in rue du Tertre for your Japanese-French fix.

Le Mans Market

If you’re a market fan you won’t be disappointed when you visit Le Mans. There are several markets from Tuesday to Sunday (see the tourist office website below for details). One of the best  is at Place du Jet d’Eau  (Wenesday, Friday, Sunday) in front of the huge Cathedral. Don’t miss the mushroom man, his champignons are a legend here. Fabulous vegetables, fruit, bread, cheese, fish, Plantagenet honey – a vibrant atmosphere and a picturesque setting.

In and around Le Mans

What to see and do in Le Mans – it really isn’t a town you should race through.
Le Mans Motor Museum
Sound and Light Show – Nuits Chimieres Le Mans
La Fleche, not far from Le Mans is a historic little town with a fabulous market
The Chateau de Lude, an amazing time warp that’s still lived in…
Baugé – the most charming little French town that houses an incredible secret – one of the most well preserved apothecaries in France!
The Forest of Bercé – ancient woodlands that once belonged to the Sun King
The wine route of the Loir – little known, off the beaten track – the most delicious wine that you won’t find anywhere else…

How to get about in Le Mans

The tram system is efficient and cheap 1,50 € single ticket (valid for 1 hour); 4,20 € day pass (valid for 24 hours) – both are also valid on the bus network.

How to get to Le Mans

With trains taking around an hour from Paris It’s an easy day trip to Le Mans.

Tourist office Le Mans, 16 Rue de l’Étoile www.lemans-tourisme.com

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Discover the secrets and charms of Le Mans – it’s a town you shouldn’t race through….

More than a quarter of a million people head to the small city of Le Mans in the department of Sarthe, Pays de La Loire each June for the epic Le Mans 24 Hours – one of the most famous car races in the world. The majority of them watch the race, enjoy the local cuisine and the friendly bars and leave.

More than just motoring

Amazingly most of them never even realise that there is a most beautiful old town just a few steps away from that legendary race course which runs through the streets of the newer parts of Le Mans. They don’t spot the Roman ruins, they miss the cobble-stoned alleyways lined with half-timbered houses. And, they haven’t a clue about the fabulous medieval architecture.

They don’t know that on the outskirts of the town there is an astounding historic abbey where a queen is buried, as well as a fabulous nature reserve with a spectacular restaurant. There’s a famous saying, don’t be a tourist, be a traveller, and Le Mans is the perfect town to illustrate just why you shouldn’t race through – but take your time to discover its charms.

What to see and do in Le Mans

You’re walking in the footsteps of the greats – the Romans, the Plantagenets and Robert Doisneau, the famous photographer!

Roman legacy in Le Mans

The presence of the Latin conquerors can be easily spotted at the Roman Wall, a 500m section of it is wonderfully preserved on the River Sarthe side of town. With its distinctive pink mortar and ochre sandstone blocks, this wall once encircled the city of Le Mans, which takes its name from an ancient tribe: Cenomani. Hidden away in some of the medieval houses in the town, there are even more Roman remains. I was lucky enough to get a peek inside one when I visited at the end of September for the fabulous open garden event known as: www.entrecoursetjardins.com. Locals opened their doors to the public to show off their gorgeous courtyard gardens, and in one of them, the lovely French family offered a glimpse of their Roman cellar, complete with a Roman charcoal burner. This is a town that’s full of surprises.

Plantagenet city of Le Mans

Le Mans is known as the Plantagenet City. The Vielle Quartier, the old district within the Roman wall, overlooked by the monumental Cathedral of Saint-Julian was built between the 11th and 15th centuries. More than 100 timber-framed houses survive. The gorgeous good looks make this part of town a bit of a honey pot for film makers looking to recreate scenes of ancient history. The eagle-eyed might spot scenes from Cyrano de Bergerac for instance.

Henry II, the first Plantagenet King of England was born in Le Mans in 1133. He married Eleanor of Aquitaine and spawned a family of Kings including Richard the Lionheart.

The old town of Le Mans

Exploring the old town will once and for all push out of your mind that Le Mans is a one trick pony – or rather race venue. Robert Doisneau knew it when he visited. The famous photographer captured its vintage beauty in an iconic image of an ancient house with a child in front holding a teddy bear. That was in 1962 but little has changed. Go there today and you’ll spot a teddy waving from the window of that house, an homage to the photographer! Successive owners have kept the spirit of Doisneau alive. Each has placed a teddy in the window, making this what has to be one of the best selfie spots in town! Wander the winding, narrow cobble stoned alleys and explore quirky shops and boutiques, wine bars and restaurants. It’s a great way to while away the day.

Culture vulture

There are several museums in Le Mans including a bike museum, arts, history and archaeology. Without a doubt, the most visited by tourists is the fabulous 24 hours Circuit de la Sarthe Museum. You don’t need to be a petrolhead to appreciate its incredible collection of more than 100 exceptional cars. Plus there’s a great portrayal of the history of the renowned race through film, photo and artifacts.

What the locals know and tourists rarely discover

Le Mans is surrounded by glorious countryside. It takes just a few minutes on the excellent tram service to discover some of its secrets. 5 minutes by car or about 15 minutes by tram from the city centre is the Domaine de l’Épau and the Abbaye Royale de l’Épau.

The Domaine is an area of outstanding natural beauty. It covers 600 hectares and hosts two restaurants and a bar, ideal for a taste of the countryside.

Abbaye Royale of L’Epau

Next door is the little known but beautiful Abbey. This monumental building has witnessed drama and centuries of history. It was burned by locals during the 15th century to stop English looters using it as a military base. And,  it was home to Cistercian monks who wrote books here in the freezing rooms, keeping their ink warm in the only heated cell. It was commissioned by Berengaria, wife of Richard the Lionheart AKA the good widow,  and it is where she is laid to rest. There is a wonderful tomb sculpture at the Abbey. When Queen Elizabeth II visited the Abbey some 25 years ago, it’s said she suggested the statue be moved to lie with that of Berengaria’s royal family at the Abbey of Fontevraud.

It hasn’t happened so far and it’s probably fitting. This neglected wife, who likely only spent a matter of weeks with her crusading husband during their entire eight years of marriage, remains where she chose to be.

Don’t miss the café where Sylvie makes cakes using products grown at the abbey or locally. The gardens are undergoing restoration with the aim to grow vegetables popular in medieval times. Stop off for quiche, salad, risotto. The menu changes with the season and Sylvie makes exceedingly fine cakes!

Now a cultural centre, there are some lovely frescoes, interesting exhibitions both inside and out, plus concerts. You can take a tour in English if you book in advance.

Finally…

Look out for the lights! La Nuit des Chimères is a free sound and light show in which major monuments are lit up in a visual feast of colour and acoustics. This city of surprises comes to life after dark. From early January until the end of August the streets en route between monuments also project fantastical light images on streets and walls.

How to get about in Le Mans

The tram system is efficient and cheap 1,50 € single ticket (valid for 1 hour); 4,20 € day pass (valid for 24 hours) – both are also valid on the bus network.

How to get to Le Mans

With trains taking around an hour from Paris It’s an easy day trip to Le Mans

Tourist office Le Mans, 16 Rue de l’Étoile www.lemans-tourisme.com

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France offers a vast network of cycle routes across all regions, with some of the best of them in the Pays de la Loire region. With 2,800km of cycle routes, the Pays de la Loire really does offer something for all levels of riders.

In 2018 the Grand Depart of the Tour de France was from Noirmoutier-en-l’Île, Pays de la Loire. We look at just how fabulous this region of France is for cyclists of all abilities as we follow in the footsteps of the Tour de France…

Cycling on Noirmoutier-en-l’Île

When the planners were considering how best to get the 176 riders, their teams, the press and TV, plus thousands of spectators on and off the island of Noirmoutier-en-l’Île for the Tour de France, they had two options. Either the Passage du Gois, a natural 4.3km causeway flooded twice a day by up to 4m, where the foolhardy die if they jumble up their tide-times. Or the road bridge. Mmm… you guessed right, they opted for the latter. And I highly recommend it.

If you don’t have a bike with you, hire one in the area. You can get the latest model latest electric bikes from Bike n’ Tour. Perfect for exploring this lovely island.

At 20km end-to-end, therefore manageable in a day, Noirmouitier is a delightful backwater with beaches straight from childhood memory; buckets-and-spades, rock-pools to investigate, golden sand and sun. At my hotel, the utterly lovely Le Général d’Elbée, I compared my achievements with the Tour de France stats. Me: 10km. 4 hours (give or take… I did stop for a beer along the way). Fernando Gaviria, Team Quick Step Floors: 201km. 4h 23′ 32″. Oh well.

Nutrition for tour riders is paramount. They burn around 5,000 calories per stage and must eat and drink constantly to top up. I strolled to Le p’tit Noirmout, hard to find but worth it, with an unassuming front hiding its treasures within. As the restaurant was but an oyster-shell’s throw from the harbour, my choice wasn’t hard to decide upon. Oysters, then Fruits de Mer. And a glass or two of wine.

Cycling at St Jean-de-Monts

My stage 2 was part of the TDF’s stage 1 – Saint-Jean-de-Monts down the coast. It’s holiday-central for French, Brits, Dutch, Germans, you name it. 8 kms of golden beach and a 400m pier. There is also a vast network of cycle paths, known as the Sentiers Cyclables de la Vendée. Something to suit every level of cyclist here.

Or for something a bit different, you could hire Rosalie! A seven -seater orange quadricycle, with a stripey awning and smiley face on the front.

Highly recommended is a stop off at Thalasso Valdys for a Pause Cocoon which involves some ‘Zen Modeling’ (a body massage) with seaweed kelp cream; Hydromassage bath with seaweed jelly finishing off with ‘marine rain’ (a seawater shower).

Cycling in Les Sables-d’Olonne

Les Sables-d’Olonne is the world capital of yacht racing and situated on the “Côte de Lumière” which covers 105 km² of the Atlantic coastline. Beach holiday heaven awaits in this lovely coastal town. Plenty of restaurants and bars, lots of activities and loads to do make this a family favourite.

The waterfront route includes paths through forests, beaches, marshes and wild coastline and is an easy ride.

Lunch at the restaurant of the Côte Ouest Hotel Thalasso & Spa is a revelation. Tables decked with each and every type of seafood imaginable; lobster; spider crabs, crabs, oysters, clams, mussels, cockles, bigorneau (sounds better than winkles, doesn’t it), langoustine, prawns, shrimps, I’ve probably left some out. The small mountains of discarded shells and carapaces were cleared as fast as they piled up until even I reached a point when I had to admit I’d had enough. It was ‘epic’.

Cycling in La Baule

La Baule is where savvy Parisians escape the unbearable heat and tourist-hassle of the capital in August. The epicentre is Hotèl L’Hermitage, old-money, solid 5-star traditional luxury, it’s been attracting the rich since 1926. Churchill, the Agha Khan, Aristotle Onassis, and Maurice Chevalier have all stayed. The 9 km beach is big enough to land the world’s largest passenger airliner, the Airbus A380, on with bags of room left for beach volleyball, and stripy changing huts. It might sink into the soft sand though.

Early each day only horse riders and pisteurs are about. Pisteurs? We’re not in the Alps. Correct, but this beach is pisted each day not by a Ratrack, but a tractor dragging a harrow. Result? Perfect corduroy sand good enough to ski on if it was snow, and if it was halfway up a mountain.

Up the north coast is an uber-exclusive enclave of villas, each with its high wall, entry-phone access only, cool pines, and private, very private sea front access. These are the holiday homes of the privileged, government ministers, financiers, and the famous.

The riders would have taken in none of this as they sped past at 40 kmph. But I recommend you take your time to discover this gorgeous part of France on two wheels…

Michael Cranmer was the guest of Pays de la Loire tourist board www.paysdelaloire.co.uk and the Vendée tourist board www.vendee-tourism.co.uk

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The vast and varied region of Pays de la Loire (Atlantic Loire Valley) is a fabulous holiday destination when you have the kids in tow, from its crazy cultural attractions to endless cycling and watersports. It’s home to zoos, interactive museums, giant mechanical creatures to ride, a world-famous race track and France’s second most-visited amusement park after Disneyland Paris.

A sloth at Nantes’ mechanical menagerie

Aimed at kids aged 9 to 90, the Machines de l’Île is an extraordinary cultural hub that combines the imaginary worlds of Jules Verne with the mechanical universe of Leonardo da Vinci. In addition to the giant elephant, robotic spider and extraordinary carousel of ride-on sea creatures, a 120-kilo sloth has taken up residence, suspended from a branch, whose head, eyelids, tail and paws can be set in motion by visitors.

Eco-conscious attractions

Want to teach the kids about going green? On the coast in Saint-Nazaire, there’s a new wind power museum. ‘EOL Centre Éolien’ offers 45-minute, educational and interactive visits focused on the history and development of wind turbines and caters adeptly for English speakers. www.leportdetouslesvoyages.com/en

Terra Botanica in Angers is the world’s only theme park dedicated to plants. Here you can learn six centuries of plant history and understand how they hold the keys to our future. A world of exploration and discovery, it’s bolstered by a superb adventure playground and a programme of entertainment. www.terrabotanica.fr/en/

Not far from Angers in Doué-la-Fontaine, the Bioparc is a troglodyte (cave) zoo for endangered species, where over 1,200 animals have found a haven of peace. Work your way around the mineral and vegetable labyrinth and watch the animals from observation bubbles. www.bioparc-zoo.fr/en/

The great outdoors

One of the region’s best assets is its near-3,000km network of cycle trails, which include sections of the major Vélo Francette (from Normandy), Vélodyssée (down the Atlantic coast) and Loire à Vélo (along the River Loire). The latter wends its way past some major châteaux – Saumur, Brissac, Angers and Nantes, as well as abbey-turned-cultural centre Fontevraud – so it can be educational as well as physical for children. Why not combine it with a fun vintage bike festival in Saumur? Anjou Vélo Vintage takes place each summer.

Electric leisure boats are all the rage  on the River Sarthe, 86km of which is navigable. Book a day or half-day out with Aventure Nautique which has boats for 7-10 people, departing from La Suze-sur-Sarthe. www.aventurenautique.fr

For watersports with a bit more adrenaline, head to the coastal resorts of St-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie or St-Jean-de-Monts and try a class in sailing, sea canoeing, stand-up paddling or sand-yachting.

In the driving seat

Family of petrolheads? Head to the 24 Hours museum in Le Mans, fully interactive and great for kids.

Showtime at Puy du Fou

Puy du Fou is the second most-visited amusement park in France after Disneyland Paris – but in place of rides, it offers spectacular theatrical shows re-enacting periods of history, from the Vikings to the Belle Époque.‘Le Premier Royaume’, which takes visitors back to the 5th century and follows Clovis, king of the Franks, against the backdrop of Attila’s rampaging followers and a declining Roman Empire. The park’s special-effect night show ‘Cinéscénie’ is continuing its seasonal performances, and there are five on-site hotels plus numerous restaurants, where staff serve you in full costume.

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The Pays de la Loire is one of the best kept camping secrets of France. Long a favourite with the French it’s only really started to be discovered by savvy holiday makers relatively recently.

Nestling in the south west corner of France along the Atlantic coast, it’s a place of vineyards, sensational seaside resorts, historic cities and fabulous markets.

Some of the main attractions of Pays de la Loire

With some of the longest sandy beaches in Europe, if you love being at the seaside you’ll be totally spoiled for choice here. Saint-Jean-de-Monts and La Baule are well-known but if you want to get off the beaten track and discover some less touristy but equally gorgeous seaside spots, try Pont-Mahé, Mesquer and Quimiac.

Where there’s sea – there’s salt. Take a visit to the salt pans of the Guérande to discover the traditional way of extracting salt from seawater. The pure Fleur de Sel produced here is used by top chefs around the world and is much loved by the French.

Nantes is a quirky city that embraces art in a unique way. It’s former industrial sites, estuary, and port are now home to year-round art installations and cultural festivals. You’ll also find the Machines de L’ile here. It’s a project inspired by Jules Verne and Leonardo da Vinci where giant spiders and elephants wander for instance. It’s an awesome visit.

Everyone knows Le Mans for its famous 24-hour race through the city. But, there’s more to this town than motoring. The old city is a little jewel, with cobbled streets with half-timbered houses, a near perfect medieval town with a remarkable third-century Roman wall. And, a fabulous Sunday morning market.

Angers is the perfect little city to dine out at terraced cafes. Visit an incredible chateau, taste Cointreau in its home environment (it’s not made anywhere else) and discover a historic town with half timbered houses and a laid back vibe.

There’s plenty to do in this almost ice cream cornet shaped department.

Where to go camping in Pays de la Loire

Island Camping Noimoutier

Go island hopping and head to Noimoutier to discover a rather secret part of France It looks Mediterranean with its pretty houses with their whitewashed walls, blue shutters and red terracotta roofs. With 25 miles of beaches, you can go to a different beach every day.

Camping at the seaside Saint-Jean-de-Monts

Saint-Jean-de-Monts offers loads for holiday makers. 8km of beautiful beaches bordered by a forest of pine trees for relaxing in the shade – and a lovely town.

Camping in the heart of the Loire Valley

If you’re looking to go inland a bit for your camping holiday then take a look at the area around Angers and Saumur, in the heart of the Loire Valley, it has everything you want from a holiday.

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