“Once upon a time there was a jewel nestling between Provence and the Côte d’Azur…” began an email I got from a friend. Who can resist an introduction like that? Certainly not me! So, I headed to the Golfe de St-Tropez, and found a little piece of French heaven. Janine Marsh explores a secret part of the French Riviera…

The Golfe de Saint-Tropez

The Golfe de Saint-Tropez is bijou, stretching 30km from north to south, and 26km from east to west, consisting of 12 Provencal villages and seaside resorts: Cavalaire-sur-Mer, Cogolin, Grimaud, Gassin, La Croix Valmer, La Garde-Freinet, La Mole, Le Plan de la Tour, Rayol-Canadel-sur-Mer, Ramatuelle, Sainte-Maxime and Saint-Tropez.

Saint-Tropez is of course world-famous thanks to its most well-known resident Brigitte Bardot, but if your only goal is to visit this lovely town, you’ll miss out on so much more. Head for the hills to explore exquisite, pickled-in-the-past perched villages, vineyards, and captivating coastal towns lapped by the Mediterranean Sea where dolphins frolic. Discover a land where the coast and countryside are inextricably linked and where the locals work in harmony with nature to preserve and protect this most beautiful, unspoiled and authentic part of France.

When to go

The best time to visit may surprise you, it’s not during the summer months – though they are lovely, but instead spring and autumn when the weather is lovely, everything is open, the sea is warm enough to swim in and the natural beauty of the area takes precedence. Or even in winter with average sunshine 7 hours per day, and the sight of blooming wildflowers, including lavender and fresias, lifts your soul. Visit the vineyards and enjoy wine tastings, meet the locals who work with and preserve nature, eat like a lord, and enjoy being welcomed as a guest not a visitor.

Saint-Tropez

The former tranquil fishing village can get busy as there is only one main road that winds around the bay, so leave the car behind and take a boat (Bateaux Verts), from either Sainte-Maxime, Marines de Cogolin, or Port Grimaud. The journey takes around 15-20 minutes, no traffic jams and no parking needed!

Wander Saint-Tropez’ pretty streets, ogle the super yachts, visit the town’s iconic tower and best of all, discover the local history through its food on a Gourmet tour with Beyond the wine. Follow in the footsteps of your guide Sonia, a specialist in local produce, to discover the delicious surprises she has selected for you. At the market, piles of vegetables and fruit look like still life paintings. The smell of truffled Brie, and of 36-month-old goat cheese made by writer, poet and legendary farmer Loïc de Saleneuve, and of garlic infused olives, chestnut spread and nougat, assails your senses.

You can’t visit Saint-Tropez and not eat a Tarte Tropézienne and the tour includes a stop at the mythical patisserie where the cake was born and where Tartes of every size and flavour are displayed like jewels in a cabinet. Enjoy with a glass of local pale rosé. Resistance is futile.

Want a culture fix? There are several museums including the lovely Annonicade, a former 16^th century chapel where artist Paul Signac lived. Arriving in 1892, and mesmerised by the landscape, he encouraged other artists, including Henri Matisse, to join him here and you can see many of their paintings in the museum. Don’t miss a visit to the fun and fascinating Musée cinéma et gendarmerie.

The Villages of the Gulf of Saint-Tropez

If, like me, your idea of an authentic French village is the sight of ancient trunk-twisted olive trees, plane tree-lined squares, medieval fountains, sun-kissed old stone houses mellowed by the passing centuries, delicate bell towers, and azure blue skies, then the Golfe de Saint-Tropez is your kind of place too…

Sainte-Maxime

Once a quiet fishing village, its fortunes changed when the railway line arrived in the 1800s creating what was known as the Route des Pignes, the Route of the Pines, named after the umbrella pine trees that grow in profusion here.

Ramatuelle

Perched on a hill, the whole village of Ramatuelle, a former Roman outpost, is a listed historic monument. It’s a sleepy little village that’s full of surprises..

Grimaud

Winding roads and ancient staircases lead you to the top of a mountain where the ruins of an 11^th century, Grimadi-family owned (after whom the town is named) castle seem to spring straight from earth.

La Garde-Freinet

In the hills of the Gulf of Saint-Tropez, in the Var department, La Garde-Freinet is one of the prettiest little villages you likely never heard of. Read more about La Garde-Freinet

Plan de la Tour

Just 15km from the chic town of Saint-Tropez, and 10km from sandy beaches lapped by the Mediterranean Sea, Plan-de-la-Tour is a secret gem of Provence with its flower-filled alleyways, ochre-coloured houses and pastel-hued shutters. A peaceful place to discover ideally in spring or autumn. Read more about Plan de la Tour

Seaside Ambiance

Thirty-eight beaches, secret coves, bustling ports and shining marinas, with calm and sparkling waters, coastal paths and glorious seaside towns…

Pampelonne

If you go looking for the beach where a nubile Brigitte Bardot steamed up the camera lens in the 1956 movie ‘And God Created Woman’, in Saint-Tropez as many do, you won’t find it, but it’s not far away. Head instead to Pampelonne beach to see the real thing!

Lagoon city – Port Grimaud

Built in the 1960s by visionary architect François Spoerry on former marshland, the ‘lagoon city’ of some 2,500 villas, is mind-bogglingly pretty. Provence meets Venice.

Natural Beauty

The Gulf of Sainte-Tropez may be small, but the landscape is incredibly diverse. From the beaches to the Massif des Maures, one of the oldest masses on earth, a strikingly vivid chain of primeval rocks in hues of grey, red and violet, covered in chestnut and cork forests. The Corsica-like garrigue, an undergrowth of aromatic herbs, fauna and flora scents the air. There are around 40 wineries where the sun-blessed grapes produce the most elegant roses, whites and reds. This is a place for hiking, cycling, horse riding, visiting the botanical gardens, and enjoying the region’s amazing nature activities.

Villa Foncin and House of Nature, Cavalaire

The brand-new House of Nature opens mid-June 2024 with exhibitions and a focus on protecting the environment, saving water, and making the most of what you grow. From the centre’s garden, take a ten-minute walk through shady forest to the Villa Foncin, the lavishly built mansion of Pierre Foncin (1841-1916). French cartographer and founding member of the Alliance Française. Set atop a cliff in an area of outstanding natural beauty, every window frames a view that looks like a painting, overlooking the Golden Isles, like gardens in the surrounding sea.

Domaine du Rayol

Almost hidden away down a side street, the Mediterranean gardens of the Domaine du Rayol transport you to another world where pathways squiggle their way through bamboo tunnels, past waterfalls and along small cliffs. You’ll encounter palm trees from New Zealand, a dense profusion of trees and plants from around the world from mimosa whose scent wafts lazily in the winter months to a prickly cactus collection and giant Bird-of Paradise plants whose flowers weigh a whopping 2 kilos. Created by ground-breaking gardener Gilles Clément who’s pioneering ‘work with, not against nature’ ethos has had wide influence, you’ll encounter a heady mix of colour and sultry perfumes year-round, framed by magnificent views over the lapis-coloured Med. Head-spinningly beautiful, this is a place to simply wander or discover its secrets with a guided tour (French & English language).

Discover the area and heaps to see and do at:  www.visitgolfe.com

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Witness the timeless tradition of the vendage – the grape harvest, in Gigondas in the heart of Provence. It’s a great way to exercise the body and free the mind says Jeremy Flint…

The countryside around the beautiful Vaucluse department of Provence is home to sweeping vineyards which carpet the landscape and fertile territories encircling historic villages. Within the scenic vistas of this picturesque corner of South-eastern France lies the wine growing commune of Gigondas, nestled between the magnificent panoramas of Vacqueyras and Séguret, one of the most beautiful villages of France.

Here, in the southern Rhone Valley, vineyards flow from the shores of the river to the foothills of the Dentelles de Montmirail, a small mountain range (up to 2000 feet high) offering spectacular hikes for nature lovers.

The grape harvest in Gigondas

Gigondas has been the home of winemaking for centuries. It’s said that Roman soldiers planted the vines and created wine estates. As far back as 1591, records reveal that wine commerce flourished in the area.

Gigondas wines are renowned worldwide and they even rival the more famous Chateauneuf-du-Pape wines. And like Châteauneuf, Gigondas wines are created mainly from the grenache grape, supplemented by a variety of others, but the grapes are grown at a higher elevation than Châteauneuf’s and on different soils. 99% of the wines grown in Gigondas are red. In 2021, the village celebrated its 50th anniversary as the first Côtes du Rhône village to be awarded Cru status appellation.

Autumn is the perfect time to visit the vineyards, especially during harvest time, known as the vendange. Driving through this spectacular part of Provence on my way to explore the Montmirail mountains and passing through Gigondas, I stopped to follow the sound of chatter and laughter from a vineyard and came across bobbing heads, flashes of purple and a tractor with a large trailer attached to the back. Grapes plucked by hand were being filled by the bucket load. This was the annual grape harvest, a timeless tradition.

In fact, it was the last day of the harvest at the vineyards that are part of the unique, historic estate of Saint Cosme, the oldest in the region, held by the same family since 1490. 15 generations of winemakers have been active here with Louis Barruol currently at the helm, having taken over in the early 1990’s. The wines are still made in the original cellar of the estate, constructed in the Gallo Roman era, more than 2,000 years ago.

The land of Gigondas is a geological mosaic composed of limestone soils on the Montmirail slopes and rocky, sandy, free-draining soils on the flatter, lower-lying land – perfect conditions for wine growing. This topography and the favourable Mediterranean climate with warm summers and bountiful hours of sunshine offer the ideal environment for cultivating vines and growing grapes to yield a fruitful crop year on year. Combined with a powerful Mistral wind, a classic feature of the region, these factors help to keep the vines dry, and encourage the grapes to ripen and taste their best.

At harvest time excitement fills the air here as the fruity grapes are cut. I watched as bunches from the vines using secateurs. The friendly harvesters, a mix of French, Spanish, Europeans, and South Americans moved swiftly along the lines of the vines under the watchful eye of the boss. The grapes were a deep purple, rich in taste and filled bucket after bucket before being placed into the trailer, ready to be turned into wine. Everyone plays their part in creating a successful harvest including the driver of the tractor who drives the brimming truck loads from the vineyards to the winery where the grapes are poured into vats to be transformed into wine.

A stone’s throw away at the cellars and tasting room of three-generation wine growers Domaine Pierre Amadieu, you can sample the wines of Gigondas and learn more about the history and culture of wine growing in the area. You can also buy their fabulous wines from the onsite shop – and you really don’t want to miss your chance to stock up on these wines!

In the centre of the village you’ll find the Caveau du Gigondas, where you can taste and buy many Gigondas wines. They also run workshops and events including food and wine pairings in the village square or in local vineyards.

Head to the wine bar Le Nez! for tapas with a large choice of local wines to pair them with on a lovely shady terrace or inside the elegantly decorated bar (1 Place du Rouvis).

The vendange is a great way to exercise the body and free the mind. With vineyards that have beautiful backdrops, magnificent views, the mellow autumn sun, surrounded by the rich and ravishing colourful fall foliage, plus meeting welcoming winemakers, what’s not to love?

Wine events take place in Provence year-round from festivals galore and tours of the cellars and vineyards including at sunset, picnics and tastings of spectacular wines, guided vineyard walks and talks and harvest visits. If you would like to visit the region during the vendange, September and October are usually the best time to go.

Jeremy Flint is an award-winning professional photographer and writer specialising in travel, landscape and location photography.

The best tours of Provence

Looking to take a tour of Provence? We recommend the following:

Bespoke tours/group tours: yourprivateprovence.com

Food and culture week-long small group tours: goutetvoyage.com

Photography tours: rainastinson.com

Day tours: idreamprovence.com

Cruise tours: Croisieurope.co.uk

Bespoke tours, exclusive, totally tailored tours – just for you: globaltravelmoments.com

Want more France?

Discover more fabulous destinations in France with our free magazine The Good Life France

Love France? Have a listen to our podcast – everything you want to know about France and more!

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In the hills of the Gulf of Saint-Tropez, in the Var department, La Garde-Freinet is one of the prettiest little villages you likely never heard of. It is one of the famed perched towns of this sun-kissed corner that represents the quintessence of the history, art and charm of old Provence, where steep cobbled streets and shaded squares are lined with flower-festooned stone houses, artists galleries and welcoming restaurants, and the views over the Maures Mountains to the Mediterranean are simply sublime. This is a town that’s well worth a detour from swanky Saint-Tropez, just 21 km away.

What to see and do in La Garde-Freinet

 A thousand years ago there were two distinct parts to La Garde-Freinet – the top of the hill where the chateau once sat with its commanding views and relative safety from invaders, and the village below. But by the 13^th century, the lower village proved more popular as it was easier to reach and more spacious. Today, the views from the hilltop ruins of Fort Freinet, a listed site with an impressive 140m long dry moat gouged into the cliff, are dazzling, looking out over the landscape, the Pre-Alps, the Maures Massif and over to the bluest of seas, the Mediterranean, a soul inspiring panorama.

The enchanting town, reached by a winding road, has an authentic Provencal vibe, a place of tinkling fountains and pastel-coloured houses. Awarded the label ‘village of character in the Var” and “Remarkable Natural Site,” La Garde-Freinet has long attracted artists, including actors Vanessa Redgrave and Tony Richardson whose home, the Nid de Duc, was a magnet for the international jet set and art crowd seeking paradise in France. David Hockney was a frequent visitor and, captivated by the warm light and dramatic scenery, featured their home and the landscape in a number of works, including one of his most famous: Pool with Two Figures. Christopher Tolkien, son of JRR Tolkien of Lord of the Rings fame, had a home next to the 17^th century Chapelle of Saint-Jean.

It’s easy to see what attracts people to this beautiful village. Picturesque alleyways and narrow passages, sometimes carved out of rock, lead to hidden treasures, a spring water fountain, houses that are minute architectural masterpieces, and historic monuments including an ancient washhouse and the 15^th century church of St Clément. It is a village that feels as if time has stood still.

Sundays and Wednesdays are market days in the aptly named Place du Marché, and the sleepy village bursts into life, as the terraces of cafés and restaurants fill with happy shoppers enjoying the local produce.

La Garde-Freinet was a hub of chestnut production with centuries old chestnut orchards. You can find out more at the Conservatoire du Freinet which promotes local production of silk, chestnut and cork farming with exhibitions. The Conservatoire also organises workshops for adults or children, and guided tours of the village and its surroudings. At the Ferme de Blandine, a family run, organic micro-farm close to the town in the Massif des Maures, you can visit (book in advance) to find out more about chestnut production. The family pick and sort the fruit by hand, dry them over a wood fire for several weeks and grind them to make flour.

And if you’re lucky enough to be in the town on the last two Sundays in October, join in the fun at the famous Fête de la Châtaigne in the heart of the village, where you can taste chestnut everything from ice cream to liqueur, cakes, bread, jam, and La Garde-Freinet’s famous marrons glacés!

For an unusual visit, head to the atelier Coudou Rossell where artisans Maxime and Benjamin create santons, small figurines which feature in nativity scenes – they’re the perfect souvenir to take home any time of the year. And if you’re in the Gulf of St Tropez in winter, don’t  miss their incredible giant crib with several thousand handmade santons (free entry).

In the evening when the sunsets and the red tiled roofs of the houses glow a deep ruby, you can hear the thwack of clashing balls from a game of petanque and the cicadas sing, sip a glass of local rosé. famous for its pale blush – there is nowhere more beautiful than this pickled in the past village in the hills of Saint-Tropez.

Push the boat out at Ultimate Provence, nestled in the vineyards that surround La Garde-Freinet. The restaurants are welcoming whether inside, on the sun-drenched rooftop terrace with views over the vineyards or soaking up the ambience poolside. Menus reflect local and seasonal produce and offer a true taste of Provence from a fabulous chef. The seriously sleek bar offers tastings of the estates own fabulous wines; the bottles are artworks in themselves and make for great vases.

Listed on the exclusive, small luxury hotels of the world list, the hotel provides new-wave Provencal accommodation with old school glamour, deeply restful, luxurious rooms with private terraces, a gleaming spa, gorgeous gardens and a sports area including a glass-walled badminton court overlooking the vines.

Hiking heaven

Classified a ‘Station Verte’ area (an eco-tourism label awarded to places which preserve nature, culture and historical heritage), hiking here is heavenly. Pop to the friendly tourist office located in the Chapelle Saint-Jean, to find details of the 12 mapped walks that start in the village, and then head out to soak up the aroma of fig and chestnut trees and enjoy the breath-taking views.

Find out more about the Golfe Saint-Tropez and its many treasures:golfe-sainttropez-tourisme.fr/en

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Located in the heart of the Alpilles Regional Nature Park, Benvengudo is a second-generation family-run hotel and restaurant set in a 4-hectare park at Les Baux-de-Provence. Expect authentic Provençal atmosphere in the stone buildings and traditional furniture, but with bright modern décor seamlessly blending old and new. It really is the best hotel in Les Baux for an authentic, welcoming and delicious break.

Family-run luxury hotel and restaurant in the scented hills of Provence

With 19 rooms, 6 suites, two small cottages and a large cottage, this enchanting 4* hotel meets the needs of everyone from couples to families. And with a swimming pool, tennis court, and gastronomic restaurant, Benvengudo is the perfect place to come home to after a day exploring an area that offers one sensory treat after another.

Perched on a rocky plateau, Les Baux – from the Provençal word for ‘rock’ – has been inhabited since Neolithic times, but this extraordinary site rose to prominence during the Middle Ages under a family claiming to be descended from King Balthazar who allegedly arrived here after visiting the infant Jesus.

By the 13^th century, the population stood at 3000 and there was further expansion during the Renaissance with the building of many grand houses, but in

1632, Les Baux was besieged by the soldiers of Louis XIII and when the town fell to the king, the ramparts were destroyed. The castle gradually fell into ruin, and residents began moving down from the high ground to the plain.

At the end of the 19^th century, Les-Baux-de-Provence numbered barely 400 residents, and many buildings were dismantled, the stone reused in new urban communities.  But after World War 2, the village began to attract artists, artisans and gourmets, and gradually its fame spread. Today Les Baux is a member of the prestigious Plus Beaux Villages de France, officially the prettiest villages in France, and is home to 500 permanent residents.

Beneath the pedestrianised streets of the hilltop community, beside the road to Arles, Benvengudo is a home-from-home for visitors from all over the world. The story began in 1967 when Maryse and Daniel Beaupied launched one of the first hotels in the village. Daniel worked as a Michelin-starred chef whilst Maryse set about furnishing their 5-bedroom property with a mix of family furniture and locally-sourced antiques.

More rooms were added in the 1970s plus an outdoor swimming pool. The couple opened a restaurant and built a second accommodation building, all the while enhancing their reputation for luxurious rooms, warm welcome, and gourmet food.  Today it is their daughter Carole and her husband Viktor who are carrying on the family hospitality tradition.

Bienvenue to Benvengudo

‘I grew up here and have so many happy childhood memories,’ says Carole, an international lawyer who has always been passionate about the family business. ‘My brother who worked alongside my parents sadly died in an accident and I couldn’t bear to see them separated from a hotel that meant so much to all of us. So in 2007, my husband and I took over the running of the business so my parents could retire.

‘Over the years, Benvengudo has become a place of cultural exchange with visitors from all over the world. They have given us all so much and in return, my aim is to give them a real experience of the Provençal lifestyle, starting with a personal welcome to show that this is still very much a family home. Our dishes are always created from quality local produce from the Alpilles, just as my Michelin-starred father always did, and the calm, elegant interior recalls my mother’s passion for antiques.’

But whilst family and tradition are very much at the heart of Benvengudo, Carole has made sure that the hotel has moved with the times, completely renovating the interior whilst keeping those irreplaceable Provençal antiques. Expect soft furnishings in calming shades of stone with splashes of colour provided by specially commissioned artwork. Carole also redesigned the gardens to give guests more options for walking and admiring the natural environment of the hotel’s own olive grove, the rocky landscape, and the traditional garrigue vegetation with its aromatic plants.

The restaurant too is flooded with natural light, bringing the outside in, whatever the season, and the breakfast bar is irresistible (above). Whilst the décor is once again in those signature neutral shades, the colours of Provence explode on the plates, each dish on the short menu bursting with southern flavour and accompanied by wines from neighbouring vineyards. And the food mile count is even lower with herbs grown in the hotel’s own kitchen garden and olive oil produced from their own olives by the Moulin Castelas less than 5 km away. Visitors who stay in early November can even take part in the olive harvest.

What to see in Les Baux de Provence and nearby

Easy though it would be just to relax and soak up the sun in the hotel grounds, there are several must-do days out within an easy drive of Benvengudo. Historic Arles on the banks of the Rhône is only 15 km away; visit the Roman arena and theatre, and walk in the footsteps of Vincent Van Gogh who created some of his best-known paintings here. You are also just 25 km from Avignon, with its famous half-bridge and the immense red brick Palace of the Popes.

Something a bit more local? There are all kinds of tempting trails to explore around Les Baux on foot, bike or horseback. Or maybe play 18-holes at the Domaine de Manville, a challenging course classified with an Ecocert label and that blends into the geology and farmland of the local countryside. And the famous Carrières des Lumières at the foot of the village is an unmissable site, a digital, immersive art venue in a former stone quarry once mined by the Romans.

Then come back to your home-from-home to sit with an apéro by the pool, heated in spring and autumn, or maybe play a leisurely game of pétanque whilst you wait for dinner. This is Provence Benvengudo-style. Just relax and enjoy!

Find out more and book your stay: benvengudo.com/en

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Just 15km from the chic town of Saint-Tropez, and 10km from sandy beaches lapped by the Mediterranean Sea, Plan-de-la-Tour is a secret gem of Provence with its flower-filled alleyways, ochre-coloured houses and pastel-hued shutters. A peaceful place to discover ideally in spring or autumn.

Surrounded by verdant vineyards, garrigue-scented countryside, olive orchards and forests of umbrella pine, oak and cork trees (cork was once the main industrial activity of the area), Plan de la Tour in the Massif des Maures hills is like a little oasis where time has stood still. Not well known, the town has a laid-back vibe and an enticing, authentic Provencal village feel, and 25 pretty little hamlets are scattered among the hills that surround it. This area is well worth a detour from the more well-known villages of the Gulf of Saint-Tropez.

What to see in Plan de la Tour

Spread in a winding snail-shell like pattern around the centre of town, are a maze of leafy squares and cobbled streets, perfect for a break or to enjoy a long, lingering, lazy lunch or dinner, for people watching or enjoying aperitifs – it has to be the local wines, especially the famous pale roses of the area. Hop to Restaurant Le Porche with its roomy terrace, warm welcome and real-deal menu specialising in Provençal flavours and hearty, tasty pizzas with an Italian flavour.

Plan-de-la Tour is the perfect place for a stroll. Wander the “old village” section of the town to discover pickled in the past, picturesque old houses and tiny streets clustered together. Don’t miss Saint-Martin church and its remarkable campanile, and the old presbytery, now partly divided into artists’ studios and exhibitions, and the Chapel of Saint-Peter where a large fig tree grows out of the stones.

Visit on Thursday to enjoy the colourful Provençal market which takes over plane-tree shaded Place Foch – you’ll find an array of local goat’s cheeses, olives, honey, street food, fragrant soaps and local crafts. In the summer look out for the stall where you can buy one-of-a-kind magic wands! You might think artist Gilles Taïs, or ‘Gillou d’où Plan’, is a distant relative of Albus Dumbledore from the Harry Potter books but no, the artist is simply passionate about creating unique magic wands! Wizards of all ages can contact him and visit his workshop in his home.

Wonderful walks

The area is perfect for walking and hiking, with routes that take you through cork forests, past the impressive blue-grey granite boulders of the massif and offering stupendous views over the Gulf of Saint-tropez, and the French Pre-Alps. Information points have been set up along the intercommunal footpaths. Find out more here: www.golfe-sainttropez-tourisme.fr/en/things-to-do/activities/hikes/

Stop off at the little hamlets that pepper the hillsides of Plan-de-la-Tour. Each has its own character and way of life, like Les Brugassières (where the heather grows), Préconil, Vallaury, Vernet (where alder trees grow), Prat Bourdin and Revest where horses run free.  The little hamlet of Forge offers a dazzling view of the village, vineyard and the circle of hills that surround it. And dotted about are numerous traces of the past dating back to prehistoric times. Nature lovers will adore the Gorgues Path, an easy, accessible walk that takes in a vineyard, hamlets and menhirs.

A festive village

This may be a tranquil village, but festivals are a way of life here. In March, parade floats are covered in white heather, at the end of April olive oil is  celebrated at a colourful fair. In May it’s the fete of Saint-Pons with animal and agricultural events, and a donkey festival. And in the summer there are lively evening markets, dances and Festival dans les Vignes performances. In July/August, is the animated Festival of Saint-Pierre which dates from 1792.  September, when the grapes have been harvested, it’s the turn of the Vigne à l’Époque Romaine to be celebrated – a grape and wine festival. Finally, in December there’s a mulled wine festival heralding the arrival of Christmas as the hamlets put up their lights and prepare for the lantern parade and famous Grande Veillée when all the locals gather around the cacho fue – the traditional lighting of Christmas Log in Provence.

Pop into the tourist office at 7 Place Georges Clémenceau (closed weekends) for details of hikes, cycle routes, horse-riding, events… and meet the charming “Marie-Jo” for personalised advice.

Find out more information about Plan-de-la-Tour and the Gulf of Saint-Tropez: www.golfe-sainttropez-tourisme.fr/en/

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Vines have been grown in the Golfe de Saint-Tropez in the Var department for more than two millennia, planted first by the Phoenicians, then the Romans. The Mediterranean climate, endless days of sunshine and rare rain provide an ideal climate – making the Var the world’s leading producer of rosé wine with more than 40 estates.

La vie en rose, white and red

Discovering the wines of the Var isn’t just about sipping deliciously pure and fresh rosés, excellent reds and crisp whites! It’s about the landscapes where the grapes ripen – and visiting wineries where you can taste the wine and discover the history of the winemakers. In the past it was said that vines were grown here because they needed little water and the soil wasn’t great for growing crops but now this dazzling corner of France is sprinkled with lush green vineyards that festoon the hills and glorious sun-kissed countryside sweeping down to the turquoise blue waters of the Mediterranean Sea. And discovering the wines of the Var is also about eating great food and pairing the wines with local and seasonal dishes.

The rosés of the Var went unappreciated for many years but they’re now and considered amongst some of the best made in France, known for their pale and pure colour. And it’s that unique barely-there-blush that has enabled the Var roses to conquer the world. At Château Barbeyrolles in Gassin, wine maker Régine Sumère’s Pétale de Rose cuvées, a rosé freed from stuffy codes, started the trend. The delicate pink rosés of the Var are perfect with just about everything.

Top wine experiences in the Golfe de Saint-Tropez

Wine tourism in the Golfe de Saint-Tropez has really upped its game in recent years and it’s now a major draw for holiday makers with lots of new and unusual experiences. Here are just a few of our favourites:

Go Beyond the Wine

Join Sonia Ferchaud, a former wine maker turned wine guide at Beyond the wine, as she shares her expertise and passion. Enjoy authentic experiences discovering all the secrets of wine by horseback, with a picnic lunch in a vineyard, in a 2CV called Paulette, a cheese and wine tasting aboard a traditional fishing boat called a ‘pointu’, a cookery class – paired with wine of course, and even take part in the grape harvest!

Award winning organic wines

Clos Mirages at La Mole is a brand-new sustainable winery on the Saint-Tropez peninsula between the picturesque, perched villages of Grimaud and Ramatuelle. The family-run wine estate covers some 15 hectares on the edge of the outstanding natural beauty spot Massif des Maures. Classified as an A.O.P. Côtes de Provence and certified organic, Clos Mirages produces small quantities of award-winning gourmet rosé, characterised by great freshness and intensity, is produced in limited yields from fully mature vines. Harvesting here is strictly controlled to make sure the grapes are the best they can be, including cooling of the bunches. There are around 50 beehives, a pond that’s a haven for wildlife, a vast pine forest and fabulous accommodation options with a swimming pool.

Wine sound and light show!

At Domaine du Bourrian in Gassin, just a few minutes from Saint-Tropez, you’ll enjoy no ordinary tastings. Their visits include a sound and light show while tasting three of their finest organic wines with some delicious cheese, or a picnic in the sunlight bathed vineyards surrounded by forests. This is one of the oldest wineries in a historic part of the area dating to the 11^th century.

Find out more: Visit, tasting and meditation, sound and light show

Blindfolded sensory tasting

Château de Chausse, in La Croix Valmer is a magnificently renovated estate producing quality organic wines. Its hilly vineyards produce exceptional reds, amongst the most renowned in the region as well as superb whites and rosés. Take an immersive blindfold tasting which really heightens the senses allowing you to truly appreciate the flavour and aromas of the wines.

A wine oasis

Domaine Up Ultimate Provence in La Garde-Freinet offers a complete immersion experience in a wooded estate surrounded by vineyards, with a luxury hotel, fabulous restaurant, bar, spa, swimming pool and activities – even its own private man-made beach. Take a wine tasting of their truly memorable AOP Côtes-de-Provence wines, fruity rosé, refreshing white and modern red with spicy notes. And don’t forget to take home a bottle – they’re unique! The transparent sleek elegant bottles feature vertical ribbing and no label, and are designed to reflect the estate’s unique DNA, they make wonderful carafes and vases, long after you’ve enjoyed the wine.

The wine tasting venues with sommeliers include a stunning bar, and a VIP area for groups or special events such as weddings.

Find out more about the wines of the Golfe de St-Tropez and wine experiences at: golfe-saint-tropez-information.com/en/vineyards-terroir

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I leaned my bike against the centuries old stone fountain and filled my water bottles with the fresh, cold water streaming from the spout. Across the street I could see the ancient entranceway that led into the old town. It was my first visit to Vence and I was immediately captivated with this picturesque medieval town situated on a small plateau overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. Less than ten years later my wife and I would pack up everything we owned and move from Nashville, TN to this charming little corner of southeast France. We’ve been here five years now and I’ve never looked back once.

It’s hard to believe that Cannes, Antibes and Nice, those glittering, dazzling, luxurious mainstays of the Côte d’Azur known for their extravagant, lavish hotels, villas and casinos are all within just a thirty-minute drive from Vence. Even with a population of close to 20,000, Vence feels more like a small village than a town or a city. The pace of life here is a bit slower. The streets are not as busy or crowded. Still, there’s an atmosphere of energy and vitality, an excitement and spirit that runs through the lively markets, squares and businesses.

History of Vence

The history of Vence goes back thousands and thousands of years. It is one of the oldest towns along the Côte d’Azur and in fact, all of France. For over 400 years it was a Roman town, known at the time as Vintium. Though it was not a particularly large Roman town it was important, as it lay on a famous Roman road called the Via Julia which connected the coastal towns along the Mediterranean Sea with those in the hills and mountains to the north.

Evidence of the Roman city can be seen throughout the town, from a beautiful carved marble sarcophagus in the Cathedral to two tall Roman granite columns that were a gift from the people of Marseille to the city of Vence in the 3rd century. Throughout the old town you’ll also find large pieces of stone engraved with Latin signifying the visit of an important Roman dignitary or celebrating a special occurrence. Since the fall of the Roman Empire the town has been built, destroyed and rebuilt over and over through the centuries.

What to see in Vence

This is a community where many people spend their entire lives raising families and working typical middle-class jobs. Though we see our fair share of tourists, Vence is not a “tourist” town. Things don’t close down during the off season. As an American who spent my entire life in the suburbs, I love being able to open my front door and walk to just about anything I need in just a few minutes. Grocery stores, pharmacies, restaurants, boulangeries, banks and much more are just a few steps away. It’s unusual for me to walk anywhere in town for more than a few minutes without running into someone I know.

The heart of Vence is its old town, an oblong collection of buildings and houses surrounded by fortified ramparts. This is where you’ll want to start any visit to the town. Before you enter through one of the five “portes” which allow access to the old town, make sure to see the “Grand Frêne,” an ash tree that is almost 500 years old. Located just outside the Porte du Peyra this tree was planted by King Francois II in 1538 and is one of the local treasures.

As you step through the Porte du Peyra into the old town the first thing you’ll see is the wonderful Peyra Fountain. Built in 1822 it replaced an earlier fountain that had stood in the same place for several centuries. Throughout Vence you’ll see many more fountains. All are fed from the Foux Spring which is located just outside the town. Numerous sources of good, clean water (two springs and three small rivers) is one of the main reasons why Vence was home to indigenous tribes thousands of years ago. In the 1920s and 1930s people traveled from all over the country for this water, as it was said to be able to cure many ailments and diseases.

Inside the old town you’ll find narrow streets that wind and twist their way past restaurants, squares, shops and boutiques. You’ll find a variety of small, beautiful squares with large chestnut and oak trees providing shade. Most of the houses located here date back to medieval times. Everything is in remarkably good condition and the town prides itself on keeping things clean and orderly.

Vence has long been a favorite location for painters, sculptures and other artists. They all cite the landscapes, the climate and especially light as to why they love to work in this area. Henri Matisse is just one of the many, many famous artists who have called Vence home. Just after the Second World War he created what is one of the biggest tourist attractions in this part of the French Riviera, the Chapelle du Rosaire, sometimes simply called the Matisse Chapel. Matisse spent the last several years of his life designing this chapel and he considered it to be his life’s “masterpiece.” It’s a must see if you are visiting Vence.

Vence has a long and important religious history. It is said to have had a Catholic Bishop as early as 363AD. Today, one of the most popular landmarks in the town is its Cathedral. It’s the smallest Cathedral in all of France. The Cathédrale Notre Dame de la Nativité (Cathedral of Our Lady of Nativity) dates back to the 11th century. Two other churches stood on the same place before this current cathedral. Destroyed by invading tribes from the north, pieces of at least one of these old churches can still be seen today inside the current church.

The Cathedral houses a large assortment of treasures and relics including elegant wooden stalls carved in the mid-1400s and a fascinating collection of wooden polychrome statues from the 16th to the 19th century reconstructing the various Stations of the Cross. The most popular attraction though is the huge, beautiful mosaic entitled “Moses Saved From The Waters” which was created by Marc Chagall in 1979.

Its close proximity to the beaches in the south and the grand peaks of the lower Alpes in the north, make Vence an ideal place to live. There’s a different market almost every morning on the large square in the center of town, the Grand Jardin. The hiking in this area is just magnificent. A hike up to the Baou des Blancs, a small cliff that overlooks the town, is a wonderful way to spend a morning or afternoon.

One of my favorite things to do in France is to visit small villages, especially those isolated little enclaves that seem to exist in another time. Our department (the Alpes-Maritimes) is full of an astonishing number of tiny villages that never fail to astound me. From Gourdon to Tourrettes-sur-Loup, from Saint-Martin-Vésubie to Saint-Étienne-de-Tinée, from Saorge to Sainte-Agnes, this area is a wonderland of villages to explore. All of these villages can be easily reached by car from Vence in just an hour or two.

As with most French towns the people of Vence are very proud of their history and heritage. It is celebrated constantly throughout the year with a number of festivals, parades and commemorations. Some of the highlights include the Fête des Fontaines (a festival celebrating the numerous fountains in Vence), the Libération de Vence (commemorating the liberation of Vence at the end of World War II) and the Hommage à Saint Véran and Saint Lambert (a parade celebrating the two patron saints of the town).

Vence is easy to reach from anywhere along the Côte d’Azur. It’s a short drive off the A8 motorway and there’s ample parking in the town. While there is no direct train service you can take the train to any town along the coast and connect with a bus that will bring you into town. There are numerous hotels including the Château Saint-Martin, a spa and luxury hotel located at the edge of town in the ruins of an old Templar castle. The Office de Tourisme is open almost every day and can provide you with all the information you need.

Steve Wilkison lives in Vence with his wife Carole whom he persuaded to leave America for a French adventure. They write about their life at steveandcaroleinvence.com

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Cassis is a year-round charmer with its café-bordered quays on the edge of the Mediterranean Sea, and 300 days of sunshine a year. Brimming with charm, it’s a perfect weekend destination – the fast train from Paris takes just 3 hours 48 minutes, and Marseille is just 25km away (30 minutes by train) – and a world apart.

What to see and do in Cassis

A good way to get your bearings is by taking the ‘little train’ tour of the town.  And the very best way to experience Cassis is to wander it’s pretty streets and port and simply soak up the atmosphere and take in the sights. Ancient buildings, a warren of narrow streets lined with boutiques and cafes, the restaurant and bar-lined port,

Activities include swimming, diving, year-round snorkelling, sailing, tennis, windsurfing, jet-skiing, and horseback riding. And for something less active – wine tasting. There are 12 wine domains in Cassis producing sunshine-filled, delicious whites and roses.

There’s a small museum with a collection of paintings and Roman artifacts. Unsurprisingly, painters have long flocked to capture the beauty of Cassis. This photogenic little former fishing village is Instagram-worthy at every turn, making artists of visitors.

Wherever you are in Cassis you’ll see Cap Canaille, one of the highest cliffs in Europe, and according to King Louis XIV, the most beautiful in France.

Hike, cycle, or drive to the crest of Cap Canaille and follow the pine-tree perfumed Routes des Crêtes (ridges) for a spectacular view over the sea, Cassis and the Calanques, limestone cliffs that grace this part of the Mediterranean. And there are plenty of art galleries, shops and boutiques – including a perfumery where you can take a workshop and make your own perfume. This is the perfect place to stroll – and eat!

Discover the Calanques

You can hike to the Calanques and find a cove to swim or while away the day. Or take a boat ride – it’s best to go in the morning when the light is better, and watch the fish follow the boat, playfully flitting around the buoys that dot their kingdom. Somehow trees, flowers and fauna find a way to sprout from the crusty rocks, their jagged edges softened by the sea’s pounding over millennia.

Gastronomic Cassis

There are restaurants galore serving the freshest fish, authentic bouillabaisse, seasonal, classic, gourmet, gastronomic dishes. There are café’s where they serve rouille, a garlicky paste to spread over crunchy bread squares and little bowls of olive oil to pour over your fish. Pair everything with a glass of wine from one of Cassis’ wine domains – local wines are served in all of the town’s port-based restaurants.

Brunch: Les Roches Blanches – this is one of the best brunches in all of France – a smorgasbord of pleasure.

Lunch/Dinner: Anywhere round the port, or head into the warren of narrow streets around for less touristy, more local options.

Aperitifs: Locals love Le Franc, La Marine, Monsieur Brun in the port area, or the bar at Les Roches Blanches.

Cassis is on the path of the Vallée de la Gastronomie, a 620m route from the north to the south of France.

You can find heaps of details about the experiences, offers, the territories and destinations  and book your visit here: valleedelagastronomie.com/en

Festivals galore

Cassis is a festive sort of  place with plenty of events year round including a spring book fair, wine festivals, roof top and vineyard jazz concerts and the famous harvest under the stars gastronomy festival!

Les Roches Blanches

Everyone should have the chance to stay at the 5 Star Hotel Les Roches Blanches if only for one night. This former 19^th century private mansion is where Winston Churchill played, and Edith Piaf relaxed. It’s the sort of French paradise you see in films but don’t believe somewhere this special could really exist. It does.

From the pool on the terrace of my room overlooking Cap Canaille which glowed the colour of toasted apricots as the sun set, I watched sailing boats go by in a sea that seemed to turn every colour of blue, fringed by the white rocks below which give the hotel its name. I can honestly say that at the moment I had nothing in my head except how utterly beautiful and relaxing this place is. Rumour has it that the owner of the stunning Chateau of Cassis stays at Les Roches Blanches so he can have a fabulous view of his own castle! There are four restaurants, all of them absolutely fabulous. The food is stupendous. The bar and the spa are superb. The hotel is super luxurious, but not at all stuffy.

I might have shed a tear when I had to leave.

Details: roches-blanches-cassis.com/en

How to get there

From the train station it’s a long walk into town (just under 2 miles), or you can take a taxi, or bus which run on the hour until 7pm.

Find more details of activities and events at the Tourist office, located on the port: ot-cassis.com

Janine Marsh is the author of  several internationally best-selling books about France. Her latest book How to be French – a celebration of the French lifestyle and art de vivre, is out now – a look at the French way of life. Find all books on her website janinemarsh.com

Want more France?

Discover more fabulous destinations in France with our free magazine The Good Life France

Love France? Have a listen to our podcast – everything you want to know about France and more!

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I can’t help thinking how strange it is to be walking through a residential part of Aix-en-Provence, past local corner shops and apartment blocks – at the same time knowing that I’m just minutes from the studio of Paul Cézanne, set in a street where you’d miss it if you didn’t know it was there.

I’ve long loved Cézanne’s art, as a kid, one Christmas I asked for a book of art about the Impressionists and Post-Impressionists of which Cézanne was a leading light. My favourite painting was The Card Players, I felt like I could smell the pipe smoke and hear them laying the cards and sighing at their luck. Years later when I saw the painting for real in Paris’ Musée d’Orsay, it surpassed my expectations, a whole story played out in a painting.

Janine Marsh traces the footsteps of the painter in his hometown.

Cezanne’s studio in Aix-en-Provence

Paul Cézanne was born in Aix-en-Provence on January 19, 1839, and memories of the great artist are everywhere but it’s in his studio where you feel his presence the most. He worked here for four years before his death.

There are tranquil gardens, birds singing, burned orange shutters and pale blue window frames on pale mustard walls – so Provence, and recognisable colours from his paintings. On a hot midsummer’s day, the sunlight plays a dappled tune through the wilting leaves of the tall trees, and it’s easy to imagine the painter arriving first thing in the morning which was his habit, setting off at 6am and walking around 20 minutes from his apartment as 23 rue Boulegon in the town as I had just done. He would collect his brushes, paints and easel from the studio (they are still there) and head off into the countryside to paint. Around 11am he walked back home for lunch, returning in the afternoon to carry on painting.

The studio was built to his own specifications, each room conformed to his specific requirements. Big windows, blinds to mute the shade on the south side, open on the north side where the light was shaded. Everything is as it was, though the original floor has been cleaned of its multiple paint stains. In one corner of the studio, you can see where he had to cut a hole in the wall, the only way to get his largest painting, Grandes Baigneuses, out.

Cezanne’s style

Cézanne was classically trained, and his early paintings show he was a superb painter, especially of biblical scenes, he could certainly do art the accepted way in those days – but that wasn’t his way. For him it was about harmony in shapes, texture and colour. He was obsessed with painting the nature of Provence and Mont Sainte-Victoire, the mountain that dominates the landscape of Aix, and he obsessively organised objects for his still life paintings.

His art wasn’t always appreciated. When Cézanne exhibited two paintings at the first Impressionist Exhibition in 1874, a critic wrote that he was “a bit of a madman, afflicted with painting delirium tremens…” It wasn’t until the last ten years of his life that his work began to be appreciated, and he would certainly be shocked to find that one of his paintings of Mont Saint-Victoire sold in New York for $138 million in 2022.

By all accounts he was a difficult man. Emile Zola his friend since childhood, said of him that though he had the makings of a great painter “he will never have the genius to become one. The least obstacle makes him despair.” He painted with an intensity that was unusual, would fly into rages, and destroy his work. Struggling to achieve the recognition he craved, he would tell younger painters “I am a painter of your generation, not of mine.”

But here in the studio there is an air of peace. You can see the objects he painted, still grouped together, the bottles, the skulls (no-one knows who they belonged to – but they are real), his smock and hat, brushes and easels, just as if he were still there.

Cezanne-en-provence.com

Follow up with a tour of the Cézanne family home in Aix, Jas de Bouffan, the Bibémus quarries, pine forests and fields of the area that provided inspiration for his art. Book tours at Aix-en-Provence Tourist Office.

At the Musée Granet you can see several original works of Cézanne.

Cézanne died at his apartment in rue Boulegon on October 23, 1906, from pleurisy said to be brought on by painting outside in at storm. Visit his final resting place in Saint-Pierre Cemetery.

Read our guide to what to see and do in Aix-en-Provence

Janine Marsh is the author of  several internationally best-selling books about France. Her latest book How to be French – a celebration of the French lifestyle and art de vivre, is out now – a look at the French way of life. Find all books on her website janinemarsh.com

Want more France?

Discover more fabulous destinations in France with our free magazine The Good Life France

Love France? Have a listen to our podcast – everything you want to know about France and more!

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Bordered by the Mediterranean Sea, the snow-peaked Alps and the mighty Rhone river, Provence–Alpes–Cote d’Azur is a sun-drenched region with a gentle climate and generous soil. Set at the crossroads of Europe and the Mediterranean, it offers a unique blend of cultural genres, reflected in its wonderfully simple and healthy cuisine. At the heart of the area, Vaucluse is the perfect place for a culinary stroll through the flavours and savours of Provence especially in winter, when local specialities take centre stage…

Truffles

Vaucluse is the main producer of black truffles in France. These mysterious fungi, nicknamed “black diamonds”, have a unique and pungent aroma and give a savoury fragrance to dishes.

Head to the market in Carpentras, at the foot of the giant of Provence, Mont Ventoux, on a Friday morning from mid-November to the end of March and in the courtyard of the Hôtel-Dieu, you’ll find a wholesale truffle market, where canneries, chefs and brokers come from far and wide in search of the perfect truffle. At 9 a.m. the whistle is blown, and transactions can begin. But don’t leave it too late, when the harvest is poor, the final whistle can be heard as early as 9:15 a.m.

There’s also a weekly Saturday truffle market in the medieval town of Richerenches. Held since 1923, this is one of the largest truffle markets in Europe. Rumour has it that 700 kg of truffles are sold there every Saturday morning in peak season (January-February). The truffles are sold to brokers from all over France directly from the trunks of cars. There are also young mycorrhizal trees (so you can grow your own truffles), olive oils flavoured with truffles or other products made from the precious mushroom whose scent invades the village streets.

There are also truffle markets in Vaison-la-Romaine and Valréas.

And why not pluck your own truffle from the ground on a truffle treasure hunt accompanied by a dog with a great sense of smell. It’s enormous fun and very satisfying. (Find out more from Vaucluse tourist office).

You’ll find truffle flavoured dishes on the menu all over the region including ‘Brouillade aux truffes’ – scrambled eggs flavoured with the black diamond!

And now for something sweet…

Winter brings sweet things to Vaucluse including the legendary Berlingot bonbons of Carpentras made in every colour of the rainbow, using candied fruit syrup. Or how about a nibble of locally made nougat – one of the must-eat foods of the traditional Provencal 13 Christmas desserts.

Candied fruit is a real speciality of Vaucluse, and another of the 13 desserts of Christmas. Head to Apt, the capital of crystallised fruit in the area for a tastebud ticking experience at La Maison du fruit confit, where you can discover an array of eye-catching multicoloured jars, an exhibition space and a tearoom. It’s a must-see!

And, in Avignon, city of the Palace of the Popes, try the Papalines d’Avignon, liqueur-filled chocolates that are memorable in a town where artisan chocolateries are plentiful. Filled with a local sweet liqueur made from herbs at the Châteauneuf du Pape distillery, the sweets are traditionally crimson coloured – like the robes of cardinals. These delicious chocolates are a firm favourite with the locals – try one and you’ll see why!

Fishy dishies, veggie treats, delicious flavours

Head to the postcard-pretty town of L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, famous for its antiques shops and Sunday flea markets. Explore its medieval streets and follow the ancient Waterwheel Circuit (there are about 15 remaining waterwheels around the village), admire the stunning baroque church and enjoy lunch at a waterside café. A favourite dish on menus in restaurants here is the local trout served with delicious seasonal vegetables from the region.

Vaucluse is like a giant garden producing fruit and vegetable treasures year round, and in winter it’s the green and white salads – chard, celery and spinach that come to the fore.

Provencal cuisine is wonderfully varied, with an abundance of fresh fruit and vegetables, olive oil, fish and game, flavoured with truffle, herbs and spices. Anchovies, dried sausages and smoked hams, wild mushrooms, patés and jams made with summer fruits – it’s delicious, hearty food that warm the soul.

Winter never tasted so good!

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Want more France?

Discover more fabulous destinations in France with our free magazine The Good Life France

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