Grape harvest in Provence | A timeless tradition

Witness the timeless tradition of the vendage – the grape harvest, in Gigondas in the heart of Provence. It’s a great way to exercise the body and free the mind says Jeremy Flint…

The countryside around the beautiful Vaucluse department of Provence is home to sweeping vineyards which carpet the landscape and fertile territories encircling historic villages. Within the scenic vistas of this picturesque corner of South-eastern France lies the wine growing commune of Gigondas, nestled between the magnificent panoramas of Vacqueyras and Séguret, one of the most beautiful villages of France.

Here, in the southern Rhone Valley, vineyards flow from the shores of the river to the foothills of the Dentelles de Montmirail, a small mountain range (up to 2000 feet high) offering spectacular hikes for nature lovers.

The grape harvest in Gigondas

Gigondas has been the home of winemaking for centuries. It’s said that Roman soldiers planted the vines and created wine estates. As far back as 1591, records reveal that wine commerce flourished in the area.

Gigondas wines are renowned worldwide and they even rival the more famous Chateauneuf-du-Pape wines. And like Châteauneuf, Gigondas wines are created mainly from the grenache grape, supplemented by a variety of others, but the grapes are grown at a higher elevation than Châteauneuf’s and on different soils. 99% of the wines grown in Gigondas are red. In 2021, the village celebrated its 50th anniversary as the first Côtes du Rhône village to be awarded Cru status appellation.

Autumn is the perfect time to visit the vineyards, especially during harvest time, known as the vendange. Driving through this spectacular part of Provence on my way to explore the Montmirail mountains and passing through Gigondas, I stopped to follow the sound of chatter and laughter from a vineyard and came across bobbing heads, flashes of purple and a tractor with a large trailer attached to the back. Grapes plucked by hand were being filled by the bucket load. This was the annual grape harvest, a timeless tradition.

In fact, it was the last day of the harvest at the vineyards that are part of the unique, historic estate of Saint Cosme, the oldest in the region, held by the same family since 1490. 15 generations of winemakers have been active here with Louis Barruol currently at the helm, having taken over in the early 1990’s. The wines are still made in the original cellar of the estate, constructed in the Gallo Roman era, more than 2,000 years ago.

The land of Gigondas is a geological mosaic composed of limestone soils on the Montmirail slopes and rocky, sandy, free-draining soils on the flatter, lower-lying land – perfect conditions for wine growing. This topography and the favourable Mediterranean climate with warm summers and bountiful hours of sunshine offer the ideal environment for cultivating vines and growing grapes to yield a fruitful crop year on year. Combined with a powerful Mistral wind, a classic feature of the region, these factors help to keep the vines dry, and encourage the grapes to ripen and taste their best.

At harvest time excitement fills the air here as the fruity grapes are cut. I watched as bunches from the vines using secateurs. The friendly harvesters, a mix of French, Spanish, Europeans, and South Americans moved swiftly along the lines of the vines under the watchful eye of the boss. The grapes were a deep purple, rich in taste and filled bucket after bucket before being placed into the trailer, ready to be turned into wine. Everyone plays their part in creating a successful harvest including the driver of the tractor who drives the brimming truck loads from the vineyards to the winery where the grapes are poured into vats to be transformed into wine.

A stone’s throw away at the cellars and tasting room of three-generation wine growers Domaine Pierre Amadieu, you can sample the wines of Gigondas and learn more about the history and culture of wine growing in the area. You can also buy their fabulous wines from the onsite shop – and you really don’t want to miss your chance to stock up on these wines!

In the centre of the village you’ll find the Caveau du Gigondas, where you can taste and buy many Gigondas wines. They also run workshops and events including food and wine pairings in the village square or in local vineyards.

Head to the wine bar Le Nez! for tapas with a large choice of local wines to pair them with on a lovely shady terrace or inside the elegantly decorated bar (1 Place du Rouvis).

The vendange is a great way to exercise the body and free the mind. With vineyards that have beautiful backdrops, magnificent views, the mellow autumn sun, surrounded by the rich and ravishing colourful fall foliage, plus meeting welcoming winemakers, what’s not to love?

Wine events take place in Provence year-round from festivals galore and tours of the cellars and vineyards including at sunset, picnics and tastings of spectacular wines, guided vineyard walks and talks and harvest visits. If you would like to visit the region during the vendange, September and October are usually the best time to go.

Jeremy Flint is an award-winning professional photographer and writer specialising in travel, landscape and location photography.