In the hills of the Gulf of Saint-Tropez, in the Var department, La Garde-Freinet is one of the prettiest little villages you likely never heard of. It is one of the famed perched towns of this sun-kissed corner that represents the quintessence of the history, art and charm of old Provence, where steep cobbled streets and shaded squares are lined with flower-festooned stone houses, artists galleries and welcoming restaurants, and the views over the Maures Mountains to the Mediterranean are simply sublime. This is a town that’s well worth a detour from swanky Saint-Tropez, just 21 km away.
What to see and do in La Garde-Freinet
A thousand years ago there were two distinct parts to La Garde-Freinet – the top of the hill where the chateau once sat with its commanding views and relative safety from invaders, and the village below. But by the 13th century, the lower village proved more popular as it was easier to reach and more spacious. Today, the views from the hilltop ruins of Fort Freinet, a listed site with an impressive 140m long dry moat gouged into the cliff, are dazzling, looking out over the landscape, the Pre-Alps, the Maures Massif and over to the bluest of seas, the Mediterranean, a soul inspiring panorama.
The enchanting town, reached by a winding road, has an authentic Provencal vibe, a place of tinkling fountains and pastel-coloured houses. Awarded the label ‘village of character in the Var” and “Remarkable Natural Site,” La Garde-Freinet has long attracted artists, including actors Vanessa Redgrave and Tony Richardson whose home, the Nid de Duc, was a magnet for the international jet set and art crowd seeking paradise in France. David Hockney was a frequent visitor and, captivated by the warm light and dramatic scenery, featured their home and the landscape in a number of works, including one of his most famous: Pool with Two Figures. Christopher Tolkien, son of JRR Tolkien of Lord of the Rings fame, had a home next to the 17th century Chapelle of Saint-Jean.
It’s easy to see what attracts people to this beautiful village. Picturesque alleyways and narrow passages, sometimes carved out of rock, lead to hidden treasures, a spring water fountain, houses that are minute architectural masterpieces, and historic monuments including an ancient washhouse and the 15th century church of St Clément. It is a village that feels as if time has stood still.
Sundays and Wednesdays are market days in the aptly named Place du Marché, and the sleepy village bursts into life, as the terraces of cafés and restaurants fill with happy shoppers enjoying the local produce.
La Garde-Freinet was a hub of chestnut production with centuries old chestnut orchards. You can find out more at the Conservatoire du Freinet which promotes local production of silk, chestnut and cork farming with exhibitions. The Conservatoire also organises workshops for adults or children, and guided tours of the village and its surroudings. At the Ferme de Blandine, a family run, organic micro-farm close to the town in the Massif des Maures, you can visit (book in advance) to find out more about chestnut production. The family pick and sort the fruit by hand, dry them over a wood fire for several weeks and grind them to make flour.
And if you’re lucky enough to be in the town on the last two Sundays in October, join in the fun at the famous Fête de la Châtaigne in the heart of the village, where you can taste chestnut everything from ice cream to liqueur, cakes, bread, jam, and La Garde-Freinet’s famous marrons glacés!
For an unusual visit, head to the atelier Coudou Rossell where artisans Maxime and Benjamin create santons, small figurines which feature in nativity scenes – they’re the perfect souvenir to take home any time of the year. And if you’re in the Gulf of St Tropez in winter, don’t miss their incredible giant crib with several thousand handmade santons (free entry).
In the evening when the sunsets and the red tiled roofs of the houses glow a deep ruby, you can hear the thwack of clashing balls from a game of petanque and the cicadas sing, sip a glass of local rosé. famous for its pale blush – there is nowhere more beautiful than this pickled in the past village in the hills of Saint-Tropez.
Push the boat out at Ultimate Provence, nestled in the vineyards that surround La Garde-Freinet. The restaurants are welcoming whether inside, on the sun-drenched rooftop terrace with views over the vineyards or soaking up the ambience poolside. Menus reflect local and seasonal produce and offer a true taste of Provence from a fabulous chef. The seriously sleek bar offers tastings of the estates own fabulous wines; the bottles are artworks in themselves and make for great vases.
Listed on the exclusive, small luxury hotels of the world list, the hotel provides new-wave Provencal accommodation with old school glamour, deeply restful, luxurious rooms with private terraces, a gleaming spa, gorgeous gardens and a sports area including a glass-walled badminton court overlooking the vines.
Hiking heaven
Classified a ‘Station Verte’ area (an eco-tourism label awarded to places which preserve nature, culture and historical heritage), hiking here is heavenly. Pop to the friendly tourist office located in the Chapelle Saint-Jean, to find details of the 12 mapped walks that start in the village, and then head out to soak up the aroma of fig and chestnut trees and enjoy the breath-taking views.
Find out more about the Golfe Saint-Tropez and its many treasures:golfe-sainttropez-tourisme.fr/en
