Welcome to The Good Life France podcast where we share everything about France and French culture!

This episode is a lip-smacking, mouth-watering, tummy-rumbling, finger-lickin’, well-seasoned seasonal episode about the food that the French traditionally eat at Christmas! And not just any old food. This is French food at its best, each course planned meticulously for a long, long Christmas Eve meal! Plus we talk local specialities, historic dishes, some really fun facts and fascinating (at times weird) French food traditions.

Join us on festive and fun feast of journey to discover all the delicious, succulent, luscious, yummy, and scrumptious Christmas food of France – everything the French love to indulge in to celebrate the season! A laugh out loud episode!

Tune into discover authentic, historic and gastronomic France with your hosts: Brit Janine Marsh author of four international best-selling books about life in France and Frenchman Olivier, a radio presenter in Lyon, share everything France and more through this podcast…

Find the podcast and transcript here on Buzzsprout

Coming up

Tune in for the next episode when we’ll be talking more about France…

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Books to Read This Winter: cozy mysteries, ooignant historical fiction and inspiring biographies all linked to France.

Immerse yourself in books that capture the essence of France through captivating mysteries, rich historical fiction, and fascinating biographies. Curated by Julia Girard-Gervois, a French expat living in the United States, each title in this list offers a unique glimpse into French history, culture, and the complexities of its people. Some stories will lift your spirits, while others may tug at your heartstrings, making them perfect for those chilly nights curled up with a warm cup of tea or a glass of fine wine.

Mystery & Lifestyle

Bruno, Chief of Police by Martin Walker
Travel to the Dordogne region with Bruno, a village police chief whose cozy life is disrupted by crime and mystery. With a devoted fanbase, Walker’s series combines suspense, charming local customs, and the beauty of rural France. This series opener is a must-read and will with no doubt make you want to travel to the French countryside of Dordogne. Read more about Bruno’s world and the bucolic countryside of Dordogne here.

A Noël Killing by M.L. Longworth
Set in the festive streets of Aix-en-Provence during Christmas, A Noël Killing (Book 8 of the Provençal Mystery Series) sees Judge Verlaque and Marine Bonnet unravel a murder case amidst holiday cheer. Evocative descriptions of Provence’s food, wine, architecture and traditions, make this mystery novel a must-read for francophiles.

The Bordeaux Betrayal by Ellen Crosby
The novel is set in Virginia’s wine country, but it ties in with Bordeaux’s rich winemaking heritage, touching on topics like the classification of Bordeaux wines and the influence of Jefferson on American oenophiles. Lucie’s investigation takes readers through local vineyards, small towns, and historical sites, creating a suspenseful atmosphere as she uncovers hidden truths. The Bordeaux Betrayal is a treat for those who are interested in wine culture and the connection between Bordeaux and early American history.

Historical Fiction

Labyrinth by Kate Mosse
The first book in Kate Mosse’s Languedoc trilogy intertwines the lives of two brave women separated by 800 years but connected through a mysterious secret in the medieval town of Carcassonne. As they each face challenges tied to the Cathars, a persecuted medieval religious group, the story beautifully captures the South of France, blending historical intrigue with touches of the supernatural.

Read our interview with Kate Mosse.

The Paris Architect by Charles Belfoure
In this WWII-era novel, an architect is reluctantly drawn into the French Resistance, designing hidden rooms to shelter Jews from the Nazis. Belfoure’s novel is a tense, morally complex story that reveals the strength and bravery found in Paris under occupation.

The Eleanor of Aquitaine Series by Elizabeth Chadwick
This series offers a captivating look into the life of Eleanor of Aquitaine, one of medieval France’s most powerful figures. The story is told with vivid detail, exploring Eleanor’s influence in the courts of France and England.

Joan of Arc by Mark Twain
In this lesser-known classic, Mark Twain presents an admiring portrait of Joan of Arc through historical fiction. Twain’s dedication to Joan’s story reveals a side of him as a writer that many may not know. Twain’s unique perspective is a compelling read.

The Nightingale by Kristin Hannah
This bestselling novel, soon to be a major motion picture starring Elle Fanning and Dakota Fanning, tells the story of two sisters’ resistance to the Nazi occupation in France. Hannah’s emotional storytelling highlights the bravery of ordinary people during extraordinary times.

Biographies, Memoirs & Historical Non-Fiction

Josephine: The Hungry Heart by Jean-Claude Baker and Chris Chase
Apart from her rise in Paris’s Jazz Age and her courageous work as a spy in the French Resistance, Baker’s life was also marked by her dream of building a “Rainbow Tribe,” a family of adopted children from diverse backgrounds. She realized this vision at her beloved Château des Milandes in the Dordogne countryside, creating a haven of inclusivity and love. Yet despite her remarkable achievements, Baker’s later years would be marked by financial and personal hardships, making her story both inspiring and profoundly moving.

The Widow Clicquot: The Story of a Champagne Empire and the Woman Who Ruled Itby Tilar J. Mazzeo
Meet the visionary behind Veuve Clicquot, who transformed her late husband’s vineyard into a thriving champagne empire. Mazzeo’s biography celebrates a pioneering woman in French wine history and brings to life the allure and grit of 19th-century France.

The Cartiers: The Untold Story of the Family Behind the Jewelry Empire by Francesca Cartier Brickell
This biography traces the story of the Cartier family and their journey to creating one of the world’s most iconic jewelry brands. Through wars and revolutions, the Cartiers have left an enduring legacy in both France and the world of luxury. With behind-the-scenes stories, this book is a fascinating glimpse into the glamour and ingenuity that has shaped Cartier’s lasting legacy

Lust for Life by Irving Stone
This biographical novel about Vincent van Gogh vividly portrays the artist’s passion and struggles in France’s countryside and Parisian art circles. Stone’s work gives readers insight into van Gogh’s inner world and his incredible artistic legacy.

The Bedford Boys: One American Town’s Ultimate D-Day Sacrifice by Alex Kershaw
Kershaw’s well-researched account commemorates the young men from Bedford, Virginia, who were among the first to storm the beaches of Normandy. This moving narrative links a small American town with France’s WWII history, highlighting the bravery and sacrifices made on D-Day.

The Good Life France Series by Janine Marsh
In this memoir series, Janine Marsh, an expat from London, invites readers to experience rural French life through her eyes. Her humorous, heartfelt narratives capture the beauty and quirks of everyday life in the French countryside, making this series a delightful escape.

Julia Girard-Gervois is a tour guide and owner of TripUSAFrance

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If you’d like to run your own business in France, but don’t fancy doing it completely alone, why not become a property manager with Les Bons Voisins? Founded in 2002, this very respected network offers franchise opportunities across the country, so if you’re looking for a way to run your own independent business with the backing of a larger, established organisation, this could be ideal for you.

What is a property manager?

In its simplest form, a property manager handles all aspects of owning and running a house in France. Les Bons Voisins – meaning ‘good neighbours’ – work primarily with clients who own homes in France but don’t live here all year round, so they need support to ensure that their property is kept in good order and to help with the management of holiday homes. And Les Bons Voisins also help people who are here full time and want a hand with anything from gardening to managing routine property upkeep and day-to-day tasks.

Property manager business opportunity in France

As a professional ‘good neighbour’, you could be called on to organise changeovers and cleaning for holiday letting, find local workmen for pool cleaning and chimney sweeping, or even to get quotes from builders and landscapers for particular projects. Some clients need a neighbourly service such as checking on their property after a storm, picking them up from the airport or just preparing the house before they arrive for a well-deserved holiday, making sure that it’s clean and welcoming and perhaps stocking the kitchen with some basic groceries so that the owners can turn up and relax.

Being a property manager with Les Bons Voisins doesn’t mean that you need to be a qualified builder, gardener and housekeeper – it’s about being a reliable coordinator or concierge who can connect clients with the right contacts and services as needed.

What skills do you need as a property manager in France?

If you’re an English-speaker based in France, or if you are thinking of moving to France, and you’re excited at the idea of working for yourself, you’re halfway there! To work with Les Bons Voisins, you need to speak both English and French, be computer-literate so that you can respond to queries, and have good organisational skills so that you can prioritise the projects coming in.

A lot of the property management teams are couples, because being a franchisee with Les Bons Voisins can be a great way to work together and use your complementary skills.

About Les Bons Voisins

Founded over twenty years ago, Les Bons Voisins has earned an established reputation for reliability and professionalism. Since 2002, the company has gradually grown into a network of 18 teams that now cover most of the western and central regions in France. In 2019, Les Bons Voisins was taken over by husband-and-wife team Carmel O’Connell and Joe Wilson, who had already been through the process of owning a French property when based abroad, so they understood the difficulties of finding the right people to help manage and maintain their property.

After they moved to France permanently, Carmel and Joe became property managers for Les Bons Voisins and thanks to their first-hand experience as both overseas owners and hands-on property managers, they have a full understanding of all aspects of the business.

Business in a box

“We talk about the business-in-a-box approach,” says Joe, “because new managers get to start their own business whilst being part of an established company with a great reputation. If you want to join the network you get full training, support with the registration procedures for the French taxation and healthcare systems, a mentoring programme to guide you through the early months and step by step hand-holding to ensure that you have complete confidence in running your new business.

“Essentially, you get the freedom of working for yourself and choosing your own hours, combined with the benefits of being part of a national, well-established organisation. We also promote Les Bons Voisins at property shows, and in the media to help you grow your business.”

Once you’ve been accepted and trained as a franchisee, you get your own profile on the main company website, featuring your photo and background information and you get to choose which services you are confident about offering to potential clients. Les Bons Voisins also includes branded work clothing as part of the set-up package, so you will be instantly recognisable for clients and present a professional appearance at all times.

By joining Les Bons Voisins, you have the practical support to help you run your own business in France, the IT support, and a far bigger advertising and marketing reach than you could achieve as a sole trader.

A steady business model

It’s also worth noting that the property management business has been robust even during Brexit, the pandemic and times of economic challenge.

“In uncertain times, clients need to know that we are here for the long haul and that they can rely on us. Many of our clients have been with us for years, because we’ve proven that we can be trusted with their second home. Some owners use their French home as a personal hideaway, and they trust us to ensure that it feels like a safe haven from the moment they arrive; other owners need to make a commercial return from their property, and we can help with the practical aspects of that, too. Our clients rely heavily on our teams: reliable caretakers who are on hand to oversee whatever might come up are a huge boon to those owners who can’t be there in person.”

How soon can a new franchise be up and running?

The process can be surprisingly quick: the current record is just 10 days between deciding to join to getting the first client! As each property management team covers a specific geographical area, potential clients sometimes keep an eye on the website to see if there is anyone in their region, so when a new franchisee comes on board, they can start receiving enquiries quite soon after their individual web page has been published.

What areas need property managers in France?

“Check with us!” says Joe. “In certain regions we need more property managers to meet the demand from existing and new clients, and in other regions, we don’t yet have any property managers in place. There are also areas that have designated property managers but they’re looking to retire so we need a new team to replace them, which means you could take over an existing client base and even expand it if you want to. The best thing to do is to contact us so we can let you know the situation in your area.”

Where do I start?

To find out more about Les Bons Voisins and the franchise opportunities, take a look at the company website (in French and in English), where you’ll find outline details about becoming a property manager. Then you can get in touch to ask for more details about your area, and ask Joe and Carmel any questions you might have. Who knows, you could soon be celebrating your first year in business with Les Bons Voisins!

The post Business opportunity in France – Property Manager appeared first on The Good Life France.

Learn a new skill on an upholstery course in France with an expert – and enjoy a relaxing break in a gorgeous mansion in the Loire Valley.

May 2025: your date with a new hobby

There’s a particular joy you get from an experience holiday that lasts much longer than the time you were away. Indulge yourself on a residential Upholstery Skills Retreat and you’ll have skills that stay with you long after your vacation, enabling you to take on a whole range of projects and broaden your upcycling horizons. This five-day retreat runs from Saturday 18th May to Thursday 22nd May 2025, and it’s a great way to combine learning with relaxation, working in small groups and a laid-back atmosphere.

Learn upholstery skills from an expert

This exclusive retreat is taught by Jacqui Jackson, an expert in traditional upholstery who specialises in French antique furniture. After gaining her qualifications at the London College of Furniture, Jacqui pursued her upholstery passion and now has 25 years’ experience to share with like-minded enthusiasts.

A respected professional in the industry, Jacqui repairs, upholsters and sells French furniture via her website, and her expertise is in demand from private clients and interior designers across the world. Her company, Essentially French, specialises in sourcing unique items from brocantes and village fairs in France, then bringing out the best in each piece, restoring, reupholstering and painting them so that they can enjoy a new life as a treasured piece in someone else’s home.

If you’re a fan of French elegance, shabby-chic, vintage gems and stylish upholstery, Jacqui is sure to be a source of wisdom and a great inspiration for you.

The programme of this upholstery residential also includes a trip to a fabulous French Flea market in Chinon, where you’ll get an introduction to ‘how to shop at a brocante’, particularly when it comes to sourcing items to reupholster. And you’ll be able to browse the stalls and look for a few new – or possibly very old – pieces to fall in love with.

Upholstery course in France – the details

Whether you’re a first-timer fresh to the world of upholstery or you have some knowledge and want to improve and finesse your existing ability, this residential workshop will be a haven of hands-on teaching. The small, exclusive groups mean that you can get one-to-one guidance, boosting your skills in a short time while surrounded by supportive individuals.

The retreat is designed to be suitable for all levels of upholstery, from complete beginners to those who are more experienced. Jacqui is also happy to speak with you beforehand to discuss your skill-level and your current project so that you can get the most from your time.

An inspiring location

The location for this retreat is La Maison Trumeau, a period property dating from the 1850s. This elegant townhouse feels like a château inside, thanks to its impressively high ceilings, tall windows and grand proportions. It has been lovingly restored by Mandy Murphy, your hostess, and is decorated with beautiful pieces of furniture and architectural details such as marble fireplaces, wainscoting and cornices, enhanced by chandeliers, fabulous bedsteads and flowing voile drapes. In such a setting, you can’t help being creatively inspired!

La Maison Trumeau is in the heart of the stunning Loire Valley, which has earned a global reputation for delectable wines. While you’re here, you can take a trip to the nearby vineyards to enjoy a wine-tasting or two (Mandy jokes that this holiday could be called “sip and stitch’), visit some French châteaux and soak up the photogenic landscapes.

Your accommodation is located right in the heart of the city of Saumur, within walking distance of boutiques, shops and superb restaurants. No doubt you’ll be tempted to extend your stay so that you can spend time strolling along the banks of the famous River Loire, sipping an espresso in one of the pavement cafés or tracking down your own antiques in one of the brocantes.

This area is also famous for significant historical sites, from the 14th-century Château du Saumur to the neolithic standing stones that date back to prehistoric times. In the surrounding areas, you can also tour the fascinating maisons troglodytes, houses built into the rocks that are still lived in today.

A relaxing break

When you arrive on Saturday, you’ll have time to unpack and unwind from your travels, settling into your elegant surroundings. On Saturday evening, you’ll meet your fellow guests and enjoy a 4-course meal that will set the tone of relaxation and enjoyment for the rest of your stay.

Every morning you’ll be served a healthy and hearty breakfast inspired by French traditions, and you can look forward to a good lunch to reward your morning’s work. For those who truly enjoy feeling immersed in French culture, you’ll have the option of a glass of wine to accompany your daily lunch, and an apéritif each evening: a glass of sparkling wine served with delicate snacks.

With its balance of learning, socialising and exploring, previous participants have especially appreciated the hands-on teaching, the fabulous food, and the conversation and laughter that flows through every day’s activities.

Visit La Maison Trumeau’s website and check out the details of this unique upholstery retreat in the Loire Valley: lamaisontrumeau.com

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An overview

The dream of moving to France is often defeated by the logistics of visas, taxes, and the language barrier, but for those who are committed enough to their dream, practical help is at hand – and in a wonderfully pleasant package!

The ‘Move to France Retreat’ is a week-long training course for English-speakers, designed to address all the practical aspects of moving to France as well as giving you a real flavour of French life and culture through excursions and cultural experiences. Run by Abigail Carter, Canadian-American owner of Château de Borie, and an award-winning author and Amy Witherbee, a professional financial advisor for American expats. The course is designed to address all the problematic questions involved in making such a move, in a setting that is relaxing and energising; by the end of the week, you’ll feel informed, inspired and ready to take your next steps.

A stunning location

Any learning process is affected by the learning environment, and it would be hard to beat this setting. The Château de Borie is a beautiful example of French architecture dating back to the 1700s, located in glorious southwest France, between Bordeaux and Toulouse. The opportunity to spend a week in such elegant surroundings is a real privilege, particularly when you’ll be part of a group of like-minded people, all sharing the same dream of moving to France.

Everything about the château is inspiring and grounding, from the high ceilings and elegant windows to the timber flooring, wood panelling and sparkling chandeliers. The rooms offer timeless grandeur and a warm welcome, from the individual bedrooms to the spacious living areas: come on in, take a breath and feel suffused with well-being.

Having followed her own dream of moving to France, Abby has transformed the château into a haven where creativity and community thrive, a place for positive encounters and a sanctuary for people navigating life’s transitions.

A true learning experience

Join this unique retreat in October 2025 to enjoy good company and explore the very real possibility of moving to France. Unlike online research, this is a three-dimensional, immersive experience designed to provide you with the essential knowledge and insights about moving to this wonderful country, shared by those who have been through the process themselves.

The week’s activities have been thoughtfully designed to balance informative sessions, delightful excursions and the chance to make meaningful connections. You can learn about the process of house-hunting in the morning, then meet with a French real-estate agency later that day or even go through the process of viewing a property so you can discover for yourself how it feels to turn the information into reality.

Addressing the vital questions

Your guides have both been through the process of buying property in France and relocating here, so they know the key issues to be addressed.

As well as demystifying the different types of visas, you learn about the financial aspects of life in France, from setting up bank accounts and organising money transfers to ongoing tax obligations once you’re established as a resident. In addition, you’ll learn about healthcare in France and why the French health service is so highly regarded throughout the world.

When it comes to real estate, your guides can explain the whole process of house-hunting, making an offer and your legal obligations as a buyer. You can also discuss transfer taxes, energy ratings, and rentability, so if you’re looking to invest in a rental property, you can learn about the seasonality of certain French regions, helping you to make informed decisions about property investment.

The retreat will cover the realities of property renovation and construction in France, from the complexities of the bureaucratic requirements through to practical insights into local construction norms.

Regarding everyday life in France, you’ll learn about driving licences and permits to get you mobile, and the cultural differences regarding holidays, opening hours and Sunday closures. You’ll also get a good grounding in social and leisure activities, community life and the importance of certain festivals.

Finally, to fully prepare you for making the move, Abby and Amy will also tackle the tricky subject of psychological, social and language realities, discussing the less obvious difficulties of settling in a new country and how to be prepared for this. Again, these sessions are informed by intellectual and practical insights but also first-hand experience from those who have personally lived through the process.

Excursions

To achieve the perfect balance of information and experience, this week-long ‘move to France’ retreat also includes several planned excursions. You can visit local vineyards to improve your knowledge and enjoy a wine-tasting session guided by expert sommeliers, or tour the Foie Gras Museum so you can get acquainted with a quintessential part of French culinary heritage.

Take a tour of the local outdoor markets, renowned for their fresh produce and vibrant atmosphere, and visit the local flea markets and brocantes to look for bargain antique pieces and unique treasures that could furnish your future home.

On the property front, you’ll get the opportunity to view specific locations and even go on a property viewing so you get a better understanding of the local real estate market and the whole process. You’ll also visit a French home-improvement store to learn about how they source, display and sell the materials and tools you might need for future DIY projects.

Personal connections

This week-long retreat about how to move to France is about far more than what you’ll learn; the personal connections are invaluable. One of the most rewarding aspects of this retreat is the sense of camaraderie and community that develops naturally throughout the time spent together. As you share stories, experiences and meals in the enchanting setting of Château de Borie, you inevitably develop deep connections with your hosts and your fellow participants, often leading to lasting friendships.

Make the first move

Join the Move to France Retreat 2025 and make that exciting first step on your journey to a life in France. Visit the Sanderling Expat website for more details and booking information, then start planning this significant step on the path to your dream French life.

The post Everything you want to know about moving to France retreat in France! appeared first on The Good Life France.

Unusual, quirky and off the beaten track in the city of light – the insider’s guide to Paris.

This is not a top 10 list. There’s an impossible amount of scope in Paris, and even a true Parisian couldn’t stay on top of the conveyor belt of restaurants, bars and museums here. Living just two hours away by train, though, and having lived in Paris years ago, my perspective of Paris is simultaneously one of a tourist and deep familiarity. Here are 10 things I love at the moment, my coups de cœur, if you will says Anna Richards.

The wine museum

The Musée du Vin (lemparis.com) only opened in October 2023, and the site is incredible. In the cellars of a 14th century Benedictine monastery, a little museum walks you through the history of wine in France, but the highlight is, naturally, the extensive wine selection at the bar (and a glass is included with your entrance ticket). On Friday nights, the vaults provide the perfect amplification for a live DJ set and singer, which can be experienced by booking a table for dinner in the restaurant (vegetarians would do well to make dietary requirements known at the time of booking). While I wouldn’t encourage you to smoke, check out the fumoir— accessed through a stone staircase that wouldn’t look out of place in a Mediaeval castle, with furniture that looks like it has been filched from your grandma’s living room.

Bookshop cafés

Is it any wonder in a city with such a proud, literary heritage that the bookshop-café culture is so strong? Try as I might, I can’t pick a favourite. Tram in the 5^th Arr. has a café that you could camp out in for hours. Bonjour Jacob in 6the Arr. arguably has the best coffee. It’s small and sells indie magazines rather than books, but has a truly beautiful selection. Le Barbouquin in the 20^th Arr. is as colourful on the inside as its graffiti-caked exterior, bookshelves overflowing and the perfect place to switch up your coffee for a glass of wine over your latest read.

Discover more great Paris bookshops including one that is open until 2am and serves wine!

Wecandoo workshops

I’m a sucker for organised fun, and French start-up Wecandoo makes every trip feel like self-improvement. On my latest visit, I took a gargoyle carving workshop with Cécilia Da Mota, who specialises in sculptures and renovations for historical buildings, and learnt how to make my own mozzarella. All of the workshops are run by qualified artisans, experts in their trade. The scope is seemingly limitless — particularly in Paris.

The Picasso Museum

Ask me my favourite museum in Paris and I’ll give you a different answer every time, but right now, my obsession is with the Musée Picasso. I love the contrast between the 17th century Hôtel Salé, quintessentially Parisian in style, and the often trippy, downright bizarre works by Pablo Picasso within. Plus, Picasso was a one hundred trick pony. Cubism, engravings, sculpture… this was an artist with many strings to his bow.

Belleville’s art scene

Hausmann buildings the colour of milky lattes will never lose their appeal, but the explosive colour of Belleville never ceases to delight me. It’s so kaleidoscopic it looks like a giant piñata exploded over it. Graffiti, giant wall murals and dozens of little workshops showcasing everything from jewellery to sculptures are testament to the creativity and soul of the arrondissement. Rue Dénoyez, a street back from Belleville Métro, is like an open-air gallery.

World cuisine

It’s a hill I’ll die on, but the best food in Paris isn’t French. I’m all for a good gastronomic bistro, especially for their entrée-plat-dessert lunch offer, but no matter how good they are, they can feel pretty similar (œuf parfait et espuma, anyone?) Paris’s world cuisine scene is only getting better and better. Little La Cantine de Sam (4 Rue des Fossés Saint-Marcel, 5ème) has delicious labneh for next-to-nothing, and pretty much every type of cuisine imaginable is available for lunch at the Marché des Enfants Rouges in the 3ème.

The cemeteries

I’m an unashamed necrotourist, and Parisian cemeteries are particularly special. Montmartre Cemetery is a higgledy-piggledy sprawl with Parisian rooftops and terracotta chimney pots framing the tombs. A croissant and coffee to go over a good book in the cemetery is, in my opinion, the most peaceful of breakfasts.

Parc de Buttes-Chaumont

A quarry turned urban park, Buttes-Chaumont has some of the best views in the city of the Parisian skyline. Here, musicians play accordions and guitars purely for pleasure, with no overturned hat to collect coins next to them, couples camp out with picnics and bottles of wine, and it’s an unparalleled spot for people watching. No picnic? Pick up beer and pizza from guinguette Rosa Bonheur within the park (Thurs–Sun).

A to B by moped

I love Paris, but I’m not a huge fan of the Metro. Even the double decker trains have lost their charm since I discovered the ease of getting around Paris by moped. Cooltra has mopeds all over the city, easy to book via their application, and prices start from €0.26 per minute. All you need is a regular driving licence, and each moped comes with two helmets and a dinner lady-style hairnet. Suddenly, instead of travelling like a worm underground, you’re zipping past the traffic and every journey becomes a sightseeing adventure.

A flâne in the 2ème at dusk

I hate shopping, but window shopping for things that I’ll

never be able to afford, and wouldn’t buy even if I could? That’s different. The antiques shops of Paris’s 2ème would bring out the inner magpie in anyone. Wander past just as the light is fading, when the golden window displays seem to twinkle. Often you’ll see groups of impeccably dressed clients sipping champagne and dining on oysters at after work events held at the antiques shops.

Paris is always a good idea – especially with these insider’s guide to Paris tips!

Anna Richards is a writer & guidebook author living in Lyon. Her work has appeared in Lonely Planet, National Geographic and many more.

Take a tour of authentic, dazzling Paris with author Janine Marsh – the Perfect Paris Tour takes you to the heart of the city of light in Spring and Fall…

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If you want to experience France at your own pace and discover the authentic and sometimes off the beaten track parts, to feast on local specialities, enjoy wine tasting, hiking, cycling and cultural visits – then push the boat out with a self-drive boating holiday! It’s one of the finest and most relaxing ways to discover real France.

Nicols Boats operate 15 boat-hire bases spread throughout the country’s most popular waterways: six in south-west France, including the legendary Canal du Midi, four in Brittany and Anjou in the west; and five in Northern France and Burgundy. There are several different styles of boat to rent, suitable for crews of anything between 2 – 12 people. And after a short lesson in how to drive them, you’ll be captain of your own boat and free to discover France, your way.

We take a look at just 5 brilliant boating holiday destinations in France:

Canal du Midi boating holidays

The UNESCO-listed as a world heritage site, the Canal du Midi is one of the most famous canals in the world. 15,000 labourers toiled for four long years to create a route that would allow ships to go from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean without needing to take a long voyage around Gibraltar. Now the canal makes for a fantastic pleasure boat holiday taking in renowned sun-kissed wine regions like Corbières and Minervois. Travel along the tranquil waterway, lined with shady trees and bordered by tow paths that are perfect for cycling. Stop off at beautiful villages, historic towns like Carcassonne, and Roman remains. Feast your senses at stunning markets and indulge in the local gastronomy – don’t miss cassoulet, a historic dish that is the taste of France!

Nicols have designed a variety of tours from gourmet escapes to historic towns and more. Their suggested itineraries reveal the secrets of this beautiful part of France, the places you’d never discover without someone sharing with you. The best places for cellar visits, the prettiest villages, where to swim and more.
Details of Canal du Midi cruises

Rhone Canal boat holidays

Staying in the south, there’s nowhere quite like the Rhone Canal, it’s certainly one of the most beautiful canals in the world. Taking you to the heart of nature, some of the finest beaches you’ll ever enjoy and to some of the most dazzling villages – this is a route for those who want to make memories to cherish forever.

There are so many not-to-be-missed places on this route it’s hard to know where to start! Aigues-Mortes, a sun-drenched medieval village that’s famous for its pink sea. Marseillan where Noilly Prat is made. Beziers, a stunning city with museums, a grand cathedral and superb restaurants. The region is famous for its oyster and wine, as well as for magnificent sandy beaches. Unload bikes from the boat (you can hire them from Nicols when you hire the boat), and pedal off to discover the most stunning sites a short distance from your boat.

You’re like to spot pink flamingos as you float along this beautiful canal. And maybe black bulls and white horses – this is the Camargue, France’s cowboy country, wild, untamed and unspoiled. And the sunsets here will leave you open-mouthed, the colours are intense – and there’s no better way to experience them than with an aperitif on your own boat.
Details of Rhone Canal cruises

Lot River boat holidays

Still in the southwest, the region of the Lot is a bit of a secret place for boating holidays – and there’s nowhere quite so authentic. 74km of rivers reveal an area that’s pickled in the past. Ancient villages of the history Quercy region are a photographer’s dream, and foodies will go overboard for the absolutely mouth-watering local products and speciality dishes that the cosy restaurants specialise in.

Discover the perched village of Saint-Cirq-Lapopie, officially one of the most beautiful in France, and historic Cahors, the base for Nicols Boats. Hire a canal barge to make the most of these tranquil waterways and immerse yourself in the unique ambiance of this land that time seems to have forgotten. Float past monumental cliffs, swim in some of the clearest waters in France and go star gazing from your deck in this unspoiled and incredibly special part of France.
Details of Lot River cruises

Charente River boating holidays

Moving northwards, Les Charentes (Charente-Maritime and Charente) is the second sunniest region of France (but without the intense heat of the far south). It’s a lush, green area crossed by the River Charente which the Renaissance King Francois I called “the most beautiful waterway of the king kingdom.”

Discover the famous vineyards of the region and stop off for cellar visits and tastings. Enjoy the gastronomic specialities, picturesque villages and glorious countryside. Historic towns like Saintes with its Roman amphitheatre and one of the finest markets in France; Angouleme, famous for its comic museum; Cognac, famous for the drink, the castle where King Francois was born; and historic Rochefort are just some of the must-sees on this route.
Details of the Charente River cruises

Loire Valley canal boat holidays on the Nivernais Canal

Not far from Paris lies the Loire Valley, AKA The Valley of the Kings as this is where the French royal family loved to take time out. The Nivernais Canal takes you on a gentle journey through the historic region that’s famous not just for its chateaux but for its wine too as it crosses into Burgundy. Must-sees include Sancerre where you should pick up some local cheese – Crottins de Chavignol – to enjoy on your boat, paired with the famous wine of course.

Wine lovers shouldn’t miss Pouilly-sur-Loire and stop for a tasting of the famous Pouille-Fumé. Stop off at little villages like Chevnon and Verneuil, home to one of the most romantic looking chateaux in the area. Shop at the lovely markets for onboard lunches and dinners (all boats have kitchens with everything you need for super self-catering). And explore the historic Burgundian city of Nevers, a short journey from Nicols Boats base in Plagny, a capital of earthenware, and former F1 race circuit. Petrol heads will love the ‘Musée Ligier F1’ at Magny Cours with a collection of F1 cars.
Details of the Nivernais Canal cruises

Discover destinations by the boat load plus loads of helpful info at: boat-renting-nicols.co.uk

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Ilse Erlund is a translator who lives in a house on stilts along the west coast of Greenland. Isolated and restless in her world by the sea, she convinces her publisher to pay for a trip to the country she has never visited but whose language she speaks fluently: France. Her mission is to translate the verses of Geoffrey “Po” Labaye, a charismatic poet known as “the last living troubadour of Provence.”

Upon arrival in the medieval hilltop village of Belle Rivière, Ilse falls under the spell of the Provençal way of life, captivated by the air, the sun, the vibrant spring colors, and the dulcet sounds of the dialect. Soon enough, Ilse is captivated by the poet, too, and she and Po develop a daily rhythm and warm camaraderie—which is disrupted by the arrival of the poet’s son, Frey. Though he has a fiancée back in Paris, Frey turns his attentions to Ilse, and suddenly she is forced to learn another language, one her translation skills have not prepared her to decode. Where—and with whom—does her future lie?

With an eye and ear attuned to the sensibilities of French life, Elizabeth Birkelund has created a love story about a woman forced to choose between the security of her quiet northern home and the possibility of the life of her dreams.

Review of A Northern Light in Provence

In  A Northern Light in Provence, author Elizabeth Birkelund effortlessly takes you to two very different worlds as the main character moves between her homeland, Greenland and sunny Provence. Her very readable writing style carries the you along, immersing you in the story and it’s an absolute treat to read as the author knows how to use language to the best advantage – every page is memorable.

This is one of those can’t put it down books. The characters are wonderfully rounded and realistic, you feel you know them, and more importantly you like the ones you should. The emotional roller coaster story is sublime, not over the top or clichéd.

The descriptions of Provence are wonderful, the words bring to life the warmth and colours, in your head you see the wonderful flowers, the table set for two in a vineyard… The descriptions of Greenland are fabulous, having never been there it was easy for me to imagine the chill pure air, the crunch of snow underfoot, the howling wind and the raging sea. Two very different countries, two very different possibilities.

The author is a master writer, her way with words is outstanding. The book holds your attention on every page, it really is that good. In fact, it’s gone on my best-books list. One to read again. And again.

It’s a beautiful, grown up love story and its beautifully written.

Available on Amazon and all good book stores online and in the high street.

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The art of French gastronomy is a feast for the senses, where the beauty is just as important as the taste.

Choosing a cake at a French pâtisserie is a cultural event. There is joy in the careful decision to be made as you view the counters filled with trays of cakes, cookies and croissants, sweet scallop-shaped madeleines, crisp rainbow-coloured macarons sandwiched with luscious velvety cream, scrumptious sugary chouquettes, and opulent opera cakes. Shelves heave with delicious tarts like fruity tarte tatin and delectable seasonal mirabelle plum, apricot and cherry pies. There are flamboyant fraisiers – fresh strawberries stuffed into the rich cream, wedged between layers of delicate almond sponge fingers and creamy flan pâtissier, and puff pastry fantasies, fluffy concoctions of choux balls and piped cream – religieuse, Paris-Brest and Saint Honoré cakes, frangipane filled pithiviers, galette des rois, and exquisite pear tarts.

Behind the scenes are the pâtissiers, cake and pastry makers, who have trained hard to learn how to make these delicious artworks. And, it’s not just cake shops where these skills are evident. A new trend has emerged, a growing legion of home bakers who also want to learn the craft of pâtisserie – for pleasure.

The world’s biggest pastry school

I arrived late at the Ducasse Campus in the village of Yssingeaux, not far from Lyon, in the south of France. It’s a surreal experience to watch Luc Debove whip the lid off a plastic container, pop it in a microwave for a few minutes and wish you bon appetit. The act itself is one we are all familiar with – but Luc Debove just happens to be a world champion pâtissier as well as director l’Ecole Nationale Supérieure de Pâtisserie, Ecoles Ducasse (ENSP). He takes my bag up to my room in a castle on top of a volcano, which apart from being a pastry school is also a hotel for students and visiting guest teachers – many of them superstars of the culinary world. “Help yourself to anything in the fridge” he says with a smile before he heads home.

And yes if you’re wondering about Ecoles Ducasse – it is that Ducasse, Alain Ducasse, one of the world’s top chefs with 21 Michelin Stars, 31 restaurants, umpteen books, a lifetime of French gastronomy, and founder of Ecoles Ducasse – a collaboration with Sommet Education, the world-leading hospitality management education group – which in 2023 was named winner of the World Culinary Awards.

For a cake monster like me, the fridge was a chilly little heaven. Full of salted cream millefeuille cakes, lemon meringue tarts, and chocolate gateaux, and in the freezer were marvellous looking ice cream cakes made by students during the course of the day. Much of what they make is delivered to local schools for the kids and teachers to enjoy, but some is kept in the fridge for peckish students to enjoy. And me.

The school used to be in the castle, formerly the base of the Confederation of Pastry Makers, but last year they expanded with a brand-new state of the art campus that took ten years to complete – making this the world’s biggest pastry school with a dozen ‘laboratoires’ – kitchens and accommodation for students. Courses here last eight months and include two internships. Students come from around the world; international classes are taught in English, the rest in French. Every student is given a ‘toolbox’ – a cabinet that has wheels as it’s so big, full of essential equipment needed to prepare, primp and prettify pâtisserie from ice cream to chocolate and everything in between.

From baguettes to brioche, bonbons and every sort of cake and pastry

In one class I meet students of all ages making vanilla brioche and caramel-coated sponge fingers, and after just three weeks training, they look good enough to be in a pâtisserie. Another group are making healthy desserts with less sugar and gluten free tarts with chickpea meringue. There are dozens of chef-teachers at the school including one who specialises in gluten free. There are no qualifications needed to take the course and I ask one of the teachers if anyone can learn to be a great pâtissier.

“Technique can be taught” says teacher chef Ludovic, “the key requirements are motivation, passion and hard work. But if you don’t have passion, it will be a struggle.”

Some students will go on to be professional pâtissiers, others are there because they love to cook, love cakes, and want to be the best they can possibly be. Coline from Lyon, a former physiotherapist, told me she loves home baking and wanted to develop her passion. “I was looking for excellence, I wanted the best” she says, “and here I found it. And yes it’s very hard work, but very rewarding.” Marc, a mature student who founded a successful logistics company says but wanted a career change enthuses, “I love cakes, and I love making people happy with cakes,” and planned to work as a pastry chef in a small hotel in Provence after the course.

I happened to be there at the end of a training course for some students, and joined an awards ceremony in which they received their diplomas, cheered on by proud chef tutors, family and friends. A fantastic spread of jewel like canapes and cakes, made to perfection by the students, was the perfect way to pay homage to their skills. I did them proud.

École Ducasse – Paris Campus

In Meudon, in the Paris suburbs, a huge campus caters to long term students with courses geared to teach culinary skills to students who come from around the world to learn from the best. There are several courses from two months to the three-year Bachelor course, taught in French and in English for the International students (80 nationalities). I toured some of the kitchens which were filled with delicious aromas, students fileting fish, chopping vegetables, mixing dough, plating up food, all dressed in meticulously clean white chef jackets and toques. “We’re not training them to be Michelin Star chefs, though some may ago on to achieve that,” one of the teachers tells me “but to be the best they can be. And it’s a serious job, it takes time to make people happy which is what our job as chefs and cooks is.” As with ENSP, there are no formal qualifications, but an interview process ensures that students are prepared for hard work and have the right aptitude.

There’s also a fabulous restaurant onsite – Adour. It’s decorated with copper pots and pans from Alain Ducasse’s own collection. It’s hugely popular (I spotted 2-Michelin starred chef Thierry Marx enjoying a bowl of soup!), so reserve in advance if you want to enjoy their superb menu.

École Ducasse – Paris Studio

Tucked away in a small side street in the heart of Paris, École Ducasse – Paris Studio, in the 16th arrondissement, is for those who want to squish in a morning, afternoon or day of developing culinary skills with a top chef teacher. When I visited, I just missed a Hollywood legend and his family who’d spent the morning learning to make macarons like professionals!

This is the only cooking school in France that’s geared towards amateurs in France who want to learn and practice the culinary arts combined with savoie faire. There are 800 small-class courses each year – a mix of cooking and pastry, plus wine tasting and kids’ cookery courses. You’ll learn to cook dishes with more than 80 different themes and recipes all come from Ducasse restaurants – traditional, classic, bistro and 3-Star, plus you’ll learn how to dress the plates, an important skill in French gastronomy. They use home-style devices, not inaccessible restaurant equipment that you’ll never be able to replicate it at home. As Alain Ducasse says: “Eating is a citizen act in which chefs have a role to play.” This is a unique cooking studio, and what you learn here is a fabulous souvenir of Paris to take home and share with friends and family. I was so impressed, I added this to the itinerary of my Perfect Paris Tours! 

Find out more: ecoleducasse.com/en

Janine Marsh is the author of  several internationally best-selling books about France. Her latest book How to be French – a celebration of the French lifestyle and art de vivre, is out now – a look at the French way of life. Find all books on her website janinemarsh.com

Want more France?

Discover more fabulous destinations in France with our free magazine The Good Life France

Love France? Have a listen to our podcast – everything you want to know about France and more!

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Bonjour

I hope that you and yours are well.

In my little village, community is everything. If someone wants help, we all pitch in, so when Jean-Claude knocked at the door and asked me to send Mark (my husband) to him at his house just down the hill from us, I didn’t hesitate to say yes.

Jean-Claude was waiting outside his house when Mark arrived “quick, quick” he said, “I need you to help me get something up to my mother-in-law’s barn before Bernadette sees.”

Bernadette, his long-suffering wife could be heard singing “La Mer” out of tune in the garage behind him. “Cherie” she called “I need help dusting the top of the wall.” It is a well-known fact in our village that Bernadette is a cleaning fanatic.

“I can’t my little cabbage” yelled Jean-Claude, “Mark needs my help.” It is also a well-known fact that Jean-Claude is a master of procrastination and wangling out of helping with the housework or any other type of work for that matter.

“Hop in the tractor and I’ll show you what I want” Jean-Claude grinned at Mark. He drives a tractor like everyone else drives a car – even to the shops!

They headed to Madame Dubois’ house – she lives by the village church, and in her front garden was a worn-out old sofa that was cut in half ready to go to the rubbish dump. Jean-Claude wanted Mark to lift one half of the sofa into the tractor bucket for him. Mark is considerably younger, fitter and stronger than Jean-Claude and is often roped in for jobs of a physically demanding nature. The pair then drove to my next-door neighbour Claudette’s house (Jean-Claude’s mother-in-law), where Mark was instructed to unload the half sofa and put it in a barn.

One end of the half sofa has two legs, the other half has none, so it sloped considerably. “Bah, that’s fine” said Jean-Claude as he snuggled lopsidedly into the makeshift chair. “This is perfect. I can sit in here listening to Radio Nostalgie, thinking about life, enjoying the tranquility, testing my home-made cider. The bales of straw will keep it warm, and the spiders will keep Bernadette out – she’ll never find me in here.”

As man-caves go, it’s not going to win any awards. It looks a bit Halloweenish with years and years of cobwebs dangling down, abandoned farm tools and a few unfortunate looking wide-eyed dolls in the corner that Jean-Claude says get dragged out when kids come to the house and are brave enough to venture through the broken barn door. But I’m betting it won’t be long before the other half of the sofa is sent for, and a few broken chairs and a table, and this will become the new meeting place for Jean-Claude’s cronies to play cards and hang out!

Bisous from a tiny village in the middle of nowhere France, where I love to walk my dogs (top photo!)
Janine
Editor

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Janine Marsh is Author of My Good Life in France: In Pursuit of the Rural Dream,  My Four Seasons in France: A Year of the Good Life and Toujours la France: Living the Dream in Rural France all available as ebook, print & audio, on Amazon everywhere & all good bookshops online. Her new book How to be French – a celebration of the French lifestyle and art de vivre, is out now – a look at the French way of life.

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