The sun comes early to the south of France, ahead of the summer crowds, making this area a favourite destination when you crave blue skies, warm sunshine and a break to blow the winter blues away.

Take a look at some of the best places to enjoy spring in the south of France.

Where to spend spring in southern France

The clink of glasses, the aroma of a fine wine, the faint plink of Champagne bubbles bursting. The smell of fresh baked bread, croissants, real chocolate or French coffee at a terraced café. The sight of cheeses on a stall at the market and the view from a hilltop town in the sun. There’s always a good reason to visit France.

Spring is especially lovely though, so, fling off your cardigan, grab your camera and head off to some of the prettiest towns in France to have your fill of spring fun and make memories you’ll cherish.

Sunny Avignon in Provence is known as the city of the popes thanks to its monumental Palace that popes once called home. It’s a lively all year round city with plenty to do and see.

Nice is always nice – whatever the time of the year. In spring it’s warm enough to dine al fresco, sunbathe on the beach and enjoy the outdoor life. Combined with the most delicious restaurants and welcoming bars to sit and watch the world go by, cultural venues galore and the captivating Cours Saleya market, it’s one of the most popular cities in the south.

Aix-en-Provence is a great place to be when the spring leaves make an appearance on the plane trees. The Cours Mirabeau is bathed in sunshine, fountains sparkle and cafés open their doors and pavement tables are filled with people keen to enjoy the spring air. At dusk, head to the top of Mont Sainte-Victoire, loved by Cezanne who lived and worked here. It, blushes pink as the sun sets.

Get out of the city and head for the hills

Fields full of wildflowers, poppies and irises, the spring sun lighting up stone buildings in medieval hilltop villages. Markets bursting into life and terraced cafés bustling with customers sitting outside in the spring sun. It’s a wonderful time to discover the countryside of southern France…

What we love:

Hiking at the Calanques National park in with its cliffs and limestones creeks known as the French Fjords. Or take a boat ride from Marseille or Cassis to see the sites from the water.

Getting lost in a maze of cobbled streets and admiring blue shuttered stone houses in gorgeous villages like Lourmarin, Ménerbes, Vaison la Romaine and Oppède le Vieux.

Watching the vines coming to life and visit boutique vineyards to enjoy a glass of rosé, the drink of Provence.

Wandering the pretty village and hillside botanical gardens at Eze overlooking the blue waters of the Mediterranean Sea.

When it comes to sight-seeing, you’ll have museums and chateaux to yourself, no crowds standing in front of the glorious paintings and sculptures or queuing to traipse through gorgeous rooms. Some of the busiest places in  the south of France become so much more accessible out of season, and if you like to roam cobbled streets and ogle stunning buildings in peace – now’s the time to do it.

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Across France this year, over 50 gardens will open their doors to visitors in order to raise money for charity. Open Gardens/Jardins Ouverts celebrates its 10^th anniversary in 2024. It brings together gardeners and garden lovers to celebrate the garden in all its variety, style, size and location, from the mountains to the coast. Over the years, the organisation has raised over 150,000€ for ill and disabled children.

A love of gardens supports children’s charities

Jardins Ouverts was formed in January 2014 after the success of four garden visits the year before. These were organised by the British owners of private gardens in La Creuse, who were inspired by the UK’s National Garden Scheme. They raised 300€ and donated it to a charity for children and young people.

Encouraged by their success, the target of the newly formed Jardins Ouverts was to open 12 gardens to the public for one weekend and to raise 1,000€ for the same charity –  À Chacun son Everest (To each his Everest). In the end, 28 gardens participated across four départements. A quarter of the participating gardens were French-owned and the rest were maintained by British residents. Jardins Ouverts now supports 7 charities and actively seeks new French and English members to open their gardens under the scheme.

The gardens

Most of the gardens involved are privately run and not usually open to the public. They bring pleasure to the people who have created and tended them and who open them on at least one day a year to share this pleasure with others. Each garden visit will bring with it a chance to find out more about the plants that thrive in its particular conditions and to get inspiration for your own garden, or outdoor space, wherever that may be. Many of those hosting will also offer refreshments, and there may even be an opportunity to buy young plants to take home with you, all sold to provide funds for charity.

The charities supported

À Chacun son Everest was founded in 1994 by the first French woman to conquer Everest. Jardins Ouverts has donated over 70,000€ in total to the association, which uses outdoor activities to help restore confidence in children and young people in remission from cancer. Quelque Chose en Plus (Something More) is based just outside Paris, supporting children and adolescents with multiple disabilities. Jardins Ouverts has donated over 17,000€ to them over ten years.

Since 2015, Jardins Ouverts has also supported 16 other associations, particularly those dealing with ill or disabled children. Donations total 44,000€ and include 1,000€ last year to support Ukrainian refugee children. Once an agreement is in place to help a charity, Jardins Ouverts aims to continue to support them for a number of years to aid forward planning.

Remarkable Gardens

In addition to the privately owned gardens that form the backbone of the scheme, some nationally recognised gardens partner with Jardins Ouverts. They offer events and activities designed to raise money for charity. One of these Jardins Remarquables, is Jardin Lacore, in Nouvelle-Aquitaine. Now open by appointment to the general public, owner Alain Gribet first opened his garden under the Jardins Ouverts scheme. He plans to continue to do so for one day each year to raise money for the charities it supports.

Afternoon tea

Another partner garden in Nouvelle-Aquitaine, the Arboretum de la Sédelle, held an afternoon tea event in 2023, which it plans to repeat on Sunday 21st July from 2pm to 6pm. This includes a tour of the arboretum in French or English. More events are planned with partner gardens and these will be posted on the website and on the Jardins Ouverts Facebook page.

Plan your visit

With over 50 Jardins Ouverts open across the whole of France from this month, the chances are you will find at least one to visit this year.  The website includes a map of the gardens, if you want to search by location or postcode, and a calendar of open gardens and events if you prefer to search by date. You can buy an annual membership to support the scheme and visit as many gardens as you like across the season, or just pay to visit each one.

Get involved

President of Jardins Ouverts, Sue Lambert, told The Good Life France, “we are always looking for new venues to open on our behalf, but we often hear gardeners say that their garden isn’t good enough. Our answer to that is that if you have sufficient interest for a 30-minute visit, you will probably be accepted. Even if you don’t, if there is a garden close to you which does, you can team up. All we ask is that you open your garden for at least one day per year. If your garden brings pleasure to you, it will almost certainly bring pleasure to others.”

Sue is also looking for coordinators with good organisational skills. Coordinators usually look after a small group of gardens (anything from three upwards) and keep in touch with the gardeners. They help them to advertise their opening, maybe helping to find people for them who will take money at the gate or who can help them by serving refreshments.

“There has been a lot of change within the association over the last year,” Sue says, “with several people retiring. In this our 10th anniversary year, we need as much help as possible to continue to support as many charities as we can in the future. As the new president, I am very positive about this and hope we can encourage new people to become involved.”

Support

Sponsorship is invaluable to the development of Jardins Ouverts, whether through financial assistance, expert advice, publicity or other services for which there would normally be a charge. This support increases the amounts donated to charity each year, and contributes directly to the expansion of the scheme across France.

Award-winning estate agents Leggett Immobilier International provided the funding to design and develop the website and data management system. Leggett has also funded publicity leaflets, marketing and contributed towards other expenses. And Joanna Leggett, Head of Marketing for Leggett opens her own garden to the public as part of the scheme and says “We are proud to be the principal sponsor and supporter of Open Gardens/Jardins Ouverts and wish the charity and garden owners every success in the coming year. We are also proud to be playing a part in helping to establish this association as a national charity in France and, by so doing, enabling increasing funds to be raised for worthy French causes.”

Find out more

Follow the organisation on Facebook at www.facebook.com/opengardensjardinsouverts to see the latest additions to this year’s calendar and for news and updates. To find out more about Open Gardens/ Jardins Ouverts and to plan your visit there’s more information at www.opengardens.eu/homepage

If you want to look into opening your own garden to the public, visit www.opengardens.eu/get-involved/open-your-garden/

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When you go on holiday to France, where you stay is as important as where you go. So if you’re dreaming of a chateau stay, a gorgeous gite or a stunning B&B, here are some of the best and most welcoming places with character, history and oodles of charm for a truly fabulous stay in France…

The ultimate getaway in the most beautiful part of France

In the Lot region, southwest France you will find a magical place – the Moulin sur Célé, a spectacularly restored 14th century water mill in 25 acres of glorious countryside in the Célé Valley, one of the most beautiful parts of France. The restored Miller’s House and The Tower, with gorgeous gardens and pool offer luxurious relaxation at its best. Surrounded by landscapes of hypnotic beauty, activities galore, pickled in the past postcard-pretty villages and close to historic Cahors, famous for its marvellous Malbec wine and world class gastronomy. France at its very best and most authentic. Lemoulinsurcele.com

Sweet gite in a wine making village in Burgundy

La Maison des Chaumes is a charming gite in the winemaking village of Villers-la-Faye in the Côte de Nuits. It’s minutes away from Burgundy’s crown jewel – historic Beaune, and just up the hill from the famed vineyards of Nuits-Saint-Georges and Aloxe-Corton. lamaisondeschaumes.com

Majestic B&B near Bergerac, Chateau Masburel

With honey-toned stone walls and sage-green shutters, the 18th century Chateau de Masburel wine domain and award-winning B&B, and gorgeous gite opening this year, has a timeless, unhurried feel to it. It’s a working winery producing award winning wines. Close to Bergerac, Saint-Emilion and ten minutes from the bastide town of Sainte-Foy-la-Grande on the banks of the River Dordogne in the Gironde. it’s the perfect base to explore the area and enjoy a delicious and relaxing break. Chateau-masburel.com

Cognac no. 22 – luxury farmhouse in Charente-Maritime

In a charming village, surrounded by fields of golden sunflowers, lush green vineyards and truffle forests, Gite No. 22, a beautifully restored 19th century traditional farmhouse with a luxurious heated pool, is utterly lovely. Ideally situated for the historic towns of Cognac, St Jean d ‘Angely, Saintes and the Atlantic Coast beaches. Quintessentially French markets, traffic free cycle routes (bikes provided for guests), delicious bistros, distillery visits, glorious countryside – what are you waiting for? Cognac-no22.com

Want more France?

Discover more fabulous destinations in France with our free magazine The Good Life France

Love France? Have a listen to our podcast – everything you want to know about France  – from how to be French to incredible places to visit and more, much more

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Before the French Riviera became de rigeur for summer holidays – it was in fact primarily considered a ‘winter resort.’ Even in mid-winter, the French Riviera gets around 8 hours of sunshine a day. It’s not warm enough to swim in the sea (unless you’re fairly hardy), with average daily temperatures of 9-13 degrees centigrade, but it rarely snows and all that sunshine means you have plenty of time for sightseeing. With less crowds you can enjoy the ambiance of hilltop villages and visit cities that in summer months are thronging with tourists – like Saint-Tropez and Cannes, discover superb museums and get a table in even the most popular restaurants. Plus it’s a chance to enjoy the French Riviera’s winter events. Discover the winter sunshine delights on the French Riviera…

Mimosa season – French Riviera

The mimosa season! From the end of January the French Riviera glows a dazzling golden yellow as the mimosa trees burst into bloom. Imported by British visitors in the early 20^th century from Australia where it’s known as wattle, mimosa trees have spread throughout the south of France. From January to March their delicious scent fills the air, heralding the arrival of spring, and several events take place to celebrate the mimosa. One not to miss is the Mimosa Festival at Mandelieu-La Napoule – 5 days of colourful floral parades, exhibitions and markets. Details: mandelieu-tourisme.com

Nice – a great place for a carnival

It’s warm enough during the day in winter to not wear a coat,  and Nice’s year-round buzz is irresistible. The city achieved UNESCO-listed status as the “Winter resort city of the Riviera”, reflecting its popularity as a winter destination between the end of the 18^th century and the end of the 19^th century which led to its development architecturally and culturally. In February a grand carnival takes place in the heart of the town – it’s a feel good event with dancing, upbeat music, a ton of colorful confetti, parades and much more. Read more about the Nice Carnival

You can find details of the carnival here: nicecarnaval.com

Menton Lemon Festival

What sort of recipe calls for 145,000 kgs of oranges and lemons? Where can you see an animal, castle or a train made of fruit? The colourful and flamboyant Menton Lemon festival on the French Riviera sees a week long refreshing and fruity festival feature giant figures made from lemons and oranges. It all started when the winter crowds of the 19th century came to a halt in the early 20th century and to lure them back, a hotel owner devised a plan to create a citrus fruit exhibition in 1928. It’s now a major event in the south of France – and a fabulous winter tonic!

Menton Fete de Citron: 11-26 February 2023. You can find details here: fete-du-citron.com

More French riviera delights

Hidden gems of the French Riviera

What to see and do in Cannes

Discover the charms of Nice

What to see on a day trip from Nice to Monaco

By Janine Marsh, Editor of The Good Life France, and author of several books about France.

Want more France?

Discover more fabulous destinations in France with our free magazine The Good Life France

Love France? Have a listen to our podcast – everything you want to know about France and more!

All rights reserved. This article may not be published, broadcast, rewritten (including translated) or redistributed without written permission.

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The Vallée de la Gastronomie® is a unique route dedicated to food and wine. It straddles three major regions of France from the north to the south: Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes, Bourgogne-Franche-Comté and Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur. In this article we’ll visit some of the most delicious destinations of southern France along this 1000 year old trade route.

Celebrating passionate producers of the food world from farmers and wine makers to chefs and all involved in the production, processing and traditions that make the rich heritage of French gastronomy so incredible, this is the king of gourmet routes, running for an astonishing 620km through France. Along the way it is liberally peppered with the most delicious and authentic producers, a mind-boggling several hundred who have signed up to offer a special welcome to visitors (usually in English as well as French), offering guided tours, sensational tastings and mouth-watering experiences.

Whilst this gastronomic journey is perfect for a road trip, you don’t need a car, you can go from town to town by train and bus as I did, stopping off to meet with artisans, farmers and chefs, indulge at the most fabulous restaurants and explore gorgeous villages and historic cities.

The Vallée de la Gastronomie website makes it super easy to find out more about these remarkable experiences.

A tasty trek

The Vallée de la Gastronomie broadly follows the path of the mighty Rhône River between vineyards and ancient towns, from Burgundy to the Mediterranean Sea. The climate and landscape differ hugely from place to place, and each area has its savoir-fair, it’s know-how, specialities and rich culinary history. The Phoenicians founded Marseille and introduced vines to France, Roman winemaking was intensive along the Rhône Valley, in the 14^th century the Dukes of Burgundy planted Pinot Noir grapes in Burgundy and the Popes of Avignon in Provence planted yet more vines.

Meanwhile, the ‘gastronomic meal of the French’ is listed on the UNESCO world heritage list reflecting the exceptional standard of French cuisine. Every region has its own cuisine and specialities based on local products, Bresse chickens of Burgundy, bouillabaisse of Marseille, the black rice of the Camargue – the list is endless. And along the route of the Vallée de la Gastronomie, you’ll discover the culinary diversity of French food at its very best.

And though this route celebrates the historic tasty treasures of France, it also honours a constantly evolving gastronomic scene, innovative chefs and ardent artisans. To be included on the list requires the offering of a ‘remarkable experience’ to visitors, and every applicant is carefully vetted before acceptance.

What was most remarkable to me was how I discovered that everyone involved in gastronomy was fervent about supporting local producers, protecting traditions and practicing art de vivre, the art of living well, but also being innovative in creating food, being organic, recycling and respecting the land and the people who work on it. It was an ethos I encountered over and over, almost a movement that is people led – and people supported.

Frankly, I could write a book about my journey but there isn’t room! At the centre of the trail is Lyon, AKA the foodie capital of France, and to the south of it, like a string of pearls, are a plethora of towns and cities that pack a big food and wine punch. Here is a tasty teaser of what I discovered on my epicurean voyage of France in the southern half of the Vallée de la Gastronomie.

Aix-en-Provence

The sun-kissed cultural, cosmopolitan and elegant city of Aix is the Paris of Provence. Cut in half by the Cours Mirabeau – an avenue of stately mansions and bustling restaurants which separates the renaissance and medieval quarters, Aix is brimming with museums and art galleries, boutiques and a fabulous market, sunny terraces and tinkling fountains.

Chocolate heaven

Who doesn’t love a tour of a chocolate workshop?! At Chocolaterie de Puyricard, a film, tour and tasting (available in English – book in advance), will satisfy your inner Willy Wonka and then some. “Butter from Charente, cream from Alsace, almonds and candied fruit from Provence…” says the guide as I watch the magical transformation of these delicious ingredients turned into chocolate, calissons, ice cream and sweets. French people eat 7-12 kg of chocolate a year – I’m only surprised it’s not more when it’s this good. They also host workshops. Forget night in a museum, I’m dreaming of night in a chocolate factory!

The Goat cheese lady

Cheese lovers will adore the Ferme du Brégalon. When I visited, Anais Girard, the goat lady, was surrounded by baby goats bleating and wanting cuddles or maybe to hear her play the piano she keeps in the barn “they love music as much as me” she says. The farm is in a lovely, tranquil location, perfect for picnics, about 20km from the city and Anais and her husband also breed goats for sale “we go on holidays at places where our goats are” she laughs, happiness is definitely goat shaped here. Production is organic, manual and carried out with love. You can meet the goats and taste the goat milk products from tangy cheeses and yoghurts to ice cream.

Innovative beer makers

In a former printworks factory turned brasserie in Aix, quench your thirst with Aix-made ale. What started as a passion project for a couple of young beer makers has won a legion of fans who flock to Aquae Maltae for the innovative beers served with tapas style snacks and a fun atmosphere. You’re likely to find their beers in local restaurants too – from lavender beer and garlic beer to their popular Sainte-Victoire, named after the local mountain that haunted the dreams of Cezanne, as well as Mistral, a blonde beer “perfect for hot days.”

Where to eat out:

Locals love: Restaurant Gaodina – lunch or dinner here is like taking a mini holiday in just a couple of hours. Just a mile or so from the commercial centre, it’s surrounded by meadows of wildflowers and Judas trees and looks like a film set for ‘A Year in Provence’. A fabulous menu at a great price, plus a barbeque kitchen for sunny days and a delicious wine list – outstandingly scrumptious!

Read our guide to Aix-en-Provence

Marseille takes the biscuit

Marseille is famous for its bouillabaisse – a rustic and chunky fish soup, but ask the locals what they love best and they’re sure to mention Les Navettes des Accoules. Jose Orsoni, AKA “Jo Navettes”, loves to talk about the famous biscuits of Marseille which he makes at his store on the edge of Le Panier, the old district of the city just 5 minutes walk from the world-famous Museum of Civilisations of Europe, MUCEM.

“Navettes are the perfect goûter, snack” he says “stick one in your pocket, it won’t break and you can nibble on it anytime – with coffee, with tea and perfect with champagne, they go with everything but not pastis” he grins.

The store is filled with divine aromas of these unique to Marseille biscuits being baked in front of you – it’s the “orange blossom water that makes them so good, it’s not too sweet” he says. He tells me that they were invented 300 years ago, and even after decades of making them, he still eats them every day. People come from far and wide for these sweet treats – if you want to make like a local, join the queue!

Where to eat out

Locals love: Sepia, perched on the Puget hill, there are fabulous views over the city as you indulge in the truly delectable dishes.

Push the boat out: Restaurant Gerarh, 50 Cours Julien, a vibrant quarter that the locals adore for its ambiance and brilliant restaurants. Chef Gerarh Habib epitomises the warm welcome of the south, with a restaurant both refined and cosy, and a menu that reflects his love of organic, local produce and spices. Food to make you smile.

Stay at: Hôtel Maison Montgrand in the centre of the city, close to the old port.

Captivating Cassis

I end my journey in style in the luminescent seaside town of Cassis with a stay at the magnificent Hotel Les Roches-Blanches, the Hotel of the White Rocks. A former private mansion built in 1887, it became a hotel in the roaring 20s. Here where Winston Churchill played and Edith Piaf relaxed, you will find the sort of French paradise hotel that you dream of and see in films but don’t really believe it exists. There are 45 rooms, every one of them memorable. Four restaurants tease, tantalise and tempt your taste buds.

And the view from my room over the beautiful Cap Canaille, the tallest cliff in Europe, glowing the colour of toasted apricots as the sun kisses the Mediterranean Sea at the close of day is nothing short of soul inspiring. It is one of those places that everyone should experience for true pleasure and French art de vivre.

From Cassis (or nearby Marseille) the Calanques are a must-visit, soaring limestone coves lapped by the turquoise sea water – go in the morning if you can, the light is better! There’s just so much to fall in love with in this lovely little town from cobbled streets lined with boutiques, bars and bistros, to the famous route des Cretes along the coast and sandy beaches. But I’m here for the food and wine so I head to the restaurant La Vieille Auberge on the Quai Jean-Jacques Barthélémy for lunch. I would be happy just drinking in the views from this place but the menu is seriously lip-smacking.

Nectar of the gods

A stone’s throw from the centre of town, surrounded by vineyards you’ll find Domaine Tigana. And if that name rings a bell, it’s because the wine maker is legendary footballer and coach – Jean Tigana, formerly of Les Blues and Fulham FC amongst many other prestigious clubs. He produces 75% white and 25% rosé wines from 14 acres, “wine is about passion, not about money, and yes football is about passion too though playing football is harder” he laughs gleefully. He’s here every day and totally hands on from serving customers to delivering to local restaurants which lap up his award-winning wines “there’s never enough left to export” he says as he pours me a glass after a tour of the vineyards and cellars (in English), though luckily, if you go to the shop you can buy it – and it’s seriously good.

On my travels I only touched the tip of the taste sensation that makes up this incredible food and wine adventure trail – I’ll be back…

You can find heaps of details about the experiences, offers, the territories and destinations  and book your visit here: valleedelagastronomie.com/en

See part 2 of my trip – the northern route, in the totally free to read The Good Life France Magazine, issue 35

By Janine Marsh, Editor of The Good Life France, and author of several books about France.

Want more France?

Discover more fabulous destinations in France with our free magazine The Good Life France

Love France? Have a listen to our podcast – everything you want to know about France and more!

All rights reserved. This article may not be published, broadcast, rewritten (including translated) or redistributed without written permission.

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Joanna Leggett explores the fascinating history of the river Seine and some of its most magical ports of call…

The River Seine is France’s second largest river, from Source-Seine to Le Havre is 780 kms and, with its tributaries, it drains an area of almost 79,000 square kilometres. And, of course, it flows through the Île-de France, the nation’s heartland and major metropolitan region. Much of the river is navigable, for the tidal section of the Seine Maritime is followed by a canalised section where locks lift river boats up to the level of the river in Paris, and then it continues towards Champagne and Burgundy.

River Seine in art

The Seine has long had fans – the Impressionists painted it time and time again. Impressionism was born from a painting of Le Havre harbour by Monet which he named ‘Impression, Sunrise’ in 1874. The list of names is almost a roll call of some of the greatest in the world, from earlier works by JMW Turner to Van Gogh, Renoir, Sisley, Monet, Manet and, of course, Renoir then there were the Post Impressionists from Boudin to Matisse. They portrayed changing seasons, river and port activities, Seine-side pastimes and places where artists stayed or sometimes someone just rowing along the river (as magically captured by Caillebotte) while perfectly attired in top hat, cravat, waistcoat and striped shirt! Then there is Seurat’s ‘Sunday Afternoon on the Island of La Grande Jatte’ set on an island in the Seine with everyone formally attired with hats, parasols with dresses boasting some very impressive bustles.

The start of the River Seine

The Seine actually rises a long, long way southeast of Paris (it takes a good three hours flat out on motorways just to get there) in the commune of Source-Seine northwest of Dijon. The spring here is just a trickle, however there is an artificial grotto which includes a statue of a nymph, dog and naturally for good measure a dragon! Apparently on the same site are the buried remains of a Gallo-Roman temple (of course the Romans were here first!) while small statues of the ‘Seine Goddess’ and other votive offerings found here are now housed in the museum at Dijon. The name of the river actually comes from the Latin Sëquana, who was goddess of the river.

The route of the Seine

As its path meanders seawards, it leaves the region of Burgundy and enters Champagne above Troyes while other rivers join along the way, perhaps the most well-known of these the Marne which joins just as it enters Paris!

Troyes is a delightful medieval town awash with half-timbered buildings, the heart of the city coincidentally has the characteristic shape of a Champagne cork. Here there are narrow streets, grand 16th century mansions and beautiful churches.

From here the river winds onwards, past woods around Fontainebleau until it reaches Paris. Dividing the city in two, in fact it borders 10 of Paris’ 20 arrondissements and is the city’s chief commercial waterway. People are either on its Left or Right Bank. There are 32 bridges in Paris – the oldest being the Pont Neuf. Another popular bridge is the pedestrian Pont des Arts which was once smothered with locks attached by trysting lovers – by 2014 these had got so heavy part of the parapet collapsed so now lovers have to take a selfie instead, though it’s said if you kiss someone as you sail under the Pont Neuf – you are bound to return to Paris! There are floating restaurants, discos, expensive cafés and all sorts of wonderful places to explore along the banks in Paris.

From Paris the river runs seawards in great loops through Normandy, past châteaux and Giverny where Claude Monet lived and gardened. Onwards it flows through a series of locks to the heart of Normandy and its capital, Rouen (read about Rouen here in The Good Life France Magazine). It was here Joan of Arc met her sad end, and it’s said that what was left of her ashes were tipped into the Seine.

The river passes through the ancient and truly charming town of Honfleur. Seated at a café with a glass of pommeau (the apple-based apéro traditional to Normandy) beside the Vieux-Bassin lined with ancient townhouses watching the sun set, is one of those memorable moments that stay with you forever.

Then it flows under the  Pont de Normandie in Le Havre, one of the longest cable-stayed bridges the world, high and wide enough to allow ocean going vessels to pass beneath to travel onwards. By this time the Seine has become a wide, mighty confluence and here it empties out into the Channel, it’s journey ended.

Joanna Leggett is marketing director at Leggett Immobilier – you can view their full portfolio of properties for sale in all the areas mentioned as well as the rest of France at www.leggettfrance.com

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There are a whole host of pretty villages to visit in Spring in France and we’ve picked just a few of our favourites.

Gerberoy, Picardy

Famous for its roses, Gerberoy is best visited in late spring when every street is awash with colour. Claiming to be the “smallest town in France” Gerberoy in Picardy, close to the Normandy border, is stunningly pretty. In June there’s a festival of roses but generally it’s a rather sleepy little place with a few shops, restaurants and places to stay. The mainly 17th and 18th century houses are beautifully preserved. The artist Henri-le-Sidaner lived here, introduced to the village by his friend the sculptor Rodin in 1903. Sidaner’s house and gardens are truly gorgeous, not as big as Monet’s garden but the artistry, the use of colour is certainly there. Go during the week when the village is quiet and discover a tiny but memorably beautiful little corner of Picardy.

Oh and that claim! It goes back to 1202 when King Philippe August granted Gerberoy the title “smallest town in France”.

Veules – les Roses, Normandy

This small village is chocolate box-lid pretty. Nestled in a forested valley in Seine-Maritime, Normandy this little seaside town has inspired many artists. It’s fame spread in the 19th century thanks to an actress of the Comedie-Francaise in Paris. When her heart was broken she fled Paris and arrived in the village and fell in love with its beauty and authenticity. She invited friends there, and they too loved it and invited their friends including Victor Hugo was became a big fan. The Impressionists captured it on canvas over and over.

With thatched roof cottages straddling France’s smallest river – the Veules, at 1.94 km, ancient restored mills and every house and street overflowing with flowers and floral displays – it’s an absolute delight in the spring.

Porto-Vecchio, Corsica

With mild weather and plenty of sunshine, the island of Corsica is lovely in spring – especially from May onwards. With abundant flowers and plants bursting into life the floral island is stunning. It’s a great time for hiking, cycling – even a dip in the sea if you don’t mind it a little bit cold! In summer, French holiday makers descend on Corsica but in the spring it’s uncrowded. The whole island is beautiful and a great way to see it in spring is with a CroisiEurope cruise. The boat departs from Nice, sails around the island taking in the most famous and beautiful parts and returns to Nice. Read our review

There are no large cities on the island. There are several towns and numerous little villages and hamlets. Porto-Vecchio which has fabulous beaches including the islands most famous beach Palombiaggia. Vineyards cover the hills that rise up around the town, which was founded in 383 BC. Below the city the salt marshes glitter in the sunshine and in spring the restaurants and shops seem to burst into life alongside the flowers.

La Couvertoirade, Aveyron

The little villages of La Couvertoirade is in Aveyron, southeast France. Visit here for a glimpse into a long-gone past. This is one of the best preserved Templar Knights villages in France, and it’s a classified plus beaux village – officially one of the prettiest villages in France. Perched above the plateau of Larzac, a land of fertile valleys which in spring are lusciously green and flowery. Wander cobbled streets in this mini-Carcassonne, just an hour’s drive from Montpellier. And breathe in the fresh spring air. Bliss.

Read more about La Couvertoirade in our free Magazine The Good Life France (issue 29)

Saint-Guilhem-le-Desert

Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert in Occitanie,  just 40km from Montpellier, is a Plus Beaux Village de France (an official classification for the prettiest villages in France). The village is arranged around a main central square which is home to the biggest plane tree in France. Winding cobbled streets radiate from the square likes spokes of a wheel lined with picturesque houses, tiny little boutiques and art galleries and tinkling fountains. It’s a little off the beaten track but oh so pretty – well worth the effort to find it.

Read more about Saint-Guilhem-le-Dessert in our free Magazine The Good Life France

Reasons to visit Paris in the spring

3 romantic French cities to visit in the spring

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Paris is always a good idea! There’s so much to see and do, so many museums, galleries, the Eiffel Tower, the Arc de Triomphe and so much more. But, with the Loire Valley just a short distance away, close enough for a day trip – you really don’t want to miss out on seeing some of the most beautiful castles in the world. And the good thing is, it’s easy to to it without a car. Just hop on the train to Tours, and join a tour.

Day trips to the Loire Valley

To make your day trip to the Loire easy and doable – we recommend Ophorus Tours. Hop on a train from Paris to Tours, the quickest way to reach the Loire Valley 200km away. Trains take from just one hour 8 minutes – and there are 20 trains a day. From the Tourist office in Tours, a 5-minute walk from the station, Ophorus organise tours to the most beautiful Loire Valley Chateaux and to the vineyards where a wine tasting is included.

These are small group tours with transport to the parts of the Loire Valley that are not so easy to reach by public transport or take too much time to get to. You’ll get skip the line access. And a local English speaking guide will accompany you to make your visit the very best it can be. You’ll then be dropped back at Tours to take the train back to Paris.

Chateau de Chambord

The Chateau de Chambord is monumental. It was intended to reflect the almighty power of the King of France, Francois I. It worked then as it does now. Unique architecture, the memorable rooftop with its many towers and turrets. If you only have time to visit one chateau in the Loire Valley – this one is the grandest (and Chenonceau, below, is the prettiest). Chambord boasts 440 rooms. Numerous staircases including a famous double-helix staircase said to have been inspired by Leonardo da Vinci who lived close by in Amboise. The grandeur of this castle is quite breath-taking. And, since it’s so easy to reach from Paris – don’t miss out! Find out more and book the tour: ophorus.com/chambord

Chateau de Chenonceau

Visit one of the most beautiful, elegant and enchanting castles in France. The Chateau de Chenonceau, in the heart of the Loire Valley, is approached by a majestic tree-lined drive. At the end of the walkway, before you lies some of the most incredible architecture in the world. The splendour is quite overwhelming with towers and turrets and a unique arched gallery that crosses the river Cher, where Kings and Queens once danced.

This is a masterpiece of Renaissance architectureEvery room is filled with gorgeous floral displays, produced by the onsite florist, awarded title of the best florist in France. The rooms are sumptuously decorated. The gardens are magnificent. This is a must-visit castle if you’re in Paris! Find out more and book the tour: ophorus.com/chenonceau

Day trip to the Loire Valley Vineyards and Chinon

If you long to see the famed Loire Valley vineyards, taste the wine where it’s made, and visit an ancient town with a majestic fortress – then take a day trip from Paris! After you arrive in Tours, meet your guide at the tourist office and you’ll be whisked away in comfort to visit a Loire Valley domaine and enjoy a wine tasting. No need to worry about driving!

Then you’ll go to the city of Chinon, dominated by its royal fortress. Wander the ancient cobbled streets lined with medieval houses, a favourite resort of French Kings and their nobles. You’ll have time to stop for lunch in the gorgeous  town before heading off back to the vineyards for another wine tasting at a different winery. Wine tastings include red, white and sparkling wines. And you’ll be back in Paris in time for dinner! Find out more and book at ophorus.com/loirevalleywinetour

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Explore three contrasting coastal communities near Nice. Take it easy in Eze, enjoy laidback Villefranche-sur-Mer and chill in Cap-Ferrat – three truly pretty villages of the French Riviera..

Stand amongst the cacti and exotic blooms of Les Jardins d’Eze and you’re treated to one of the most glorious views on the French Riviera. From this hilltop garden high above the Mediterranean, I’m looking westward over the stone walls and terracotta roofs of medieval Eze towards Nice. On a sparkling morning like this, breath-taking doesn’t even come close. And with 300 sunshine days a year, it’s a view that can be enjoyed all year round.

Villas tumble down the steep hillside in front of me and beyond a wooded headland. The slim peninsula of St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat marks the eastern boundary of Villefranche Bay, the pretty resort tantalisingly hidden from view. The city of Nice is out of sight too behind the southern tip of the Alpes Maritimes. But its coastal airport is clearly visible in the far distance, a reminder that UNESCO’s ‘Winter Resort of the Riviera’ is only a bus ride away.

Take a city break in Nice and it’s easy to spend your time exploring the quaint streets of Vieux Nice, the Baroque churches, tempting boutiques and eclectic mix of museums. But the Greater Nice area includes a huge variety of picturesque locations from the mountain villages of the Mercantour to a clutch of coastal communities that lie east of the city. A stunning combination that just begs to be explored.

Take it easy in Eze

Classified as an elite ‘Jardin Remarquable’, the Exotic Garden of Eze features succulent plants from arid areas across the globe. The cacti, aloes and agaves sit besides sculptures in terracotta and bronze. This magical plot stands at the highest point of the medieval village, 1400 feet above the modern town centre at sea level. Today, the steep streets of the showpiece medieval village are beautifully maintained and manicured. This is a popular place with cruise ship passengers.  And there is atmospheric accommodation that includes three  5-star hotels.

For a special occasion, treat yourself to a meal at La Chèvre d’Or restaurant with its two coveted Michelin stars. But it’s still easy to feel the atmosphere of ancient stones in Eze, especially if you can visit early or late in the day, or in low season. There’s a real sense of time gone by as you pass beneath medieval gateways. Walk beside walls that date back to the Bronze Age.  And contemplate the Riquier Mansion, home to the powerful Lords of Eze from the 12^th to 15^th centuries.

It’s also easy just to soak up the view over a refreshing glass on a café terrace. But to see a different side of the village, take one of the marked hiking routes along winding paths fringed with bougainvillea and jasmine. There’s plenty of Riviera fragrance to be had too on a free tour and workshop at Parfumerie Gallimard and at the Fragonard factory. Plus a wealth of small craft boutiques for that special present to give away, or even keep yourself.

Laidback in Villefranche

With its sheltered harbour and calm waters, Villefranche-sur-Mer is one of the major cruise ports of the Côte d’Azur, despite numbering just 5,000 residents. In the 13^th century, local people preferred to live in the hills away from the threat of pirates. So in 1295, Charles Duke of Anjou and Count of Provence, established a ‘free port’ – ville franche. It offered various tax privileges in a bid to persuade them to relocate to sea level, concessions that largely remained until the 18^th century.

Today the pretty fishing port is also home to a flotilla of yachts and traditional fishing boats known as pointus. Yet Villefranche still manages to retain an air of laidback loveliness with its seafront cafes, colourful facades and quaint 16^th century back streets. It’s hard not to smile in a place where every narrow street has houses painted in a palette of lemon and apricot, russet and terracotta. And I loved the stylish, upbeat feel of the baroque bell towers, painted shutters, and wrought-iron balconies overlooking the harbour.

Cultural and delicious

Even my lunch at Le Cosmo bar was ablaze with Mediterranean atmosphere. Fresh white fish, scarlet tomato salsa, bright green rocket, and a wedge of lemon, all presented with a swirl of balsamic vinegar on a speckled blue and white plate. Just add a glass of chilled local rosé and some crisp baguette for the perfect light lunch. I even had a front row view of the 16^th century Chapel of Saint-Pierre. It was used as a storeroom for fishermen until artist Jean Cocteau restored it in 1957. He adorned the interior with murals of St Peter and local fishermen.

Stroll through the citadel built in 1554, eleven years after the town was burned to the ground following the siege of Nice by combined French and Ottoman forces. With sweeping views over the harbour, it served as a military base after Nice and Savoie became part of France in 1860. It was bought by the city council in 1965 and transformed into a City Hall and cultural centre.

Chilled in Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat

If I had money – lots of money – a holiday home in Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat would be high on my wish list. This slim peninsula between Villefranche-sur-Mer to the west and neighbouring Beaulieu-sur-Mer fans out into a wooded Y-shape where luxury homes nestle discreetly in the pine trees behind high fences.

But there appears to be no envy on the part of less well-off residents. They insist that the wealthy don’t flash their cash here unless it is to support local businesses, albeit on the way to their luxury yachts in the harbour. But compared to many wealthy enclaves around the Mediterranean, Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat is amongst the most discreet.

This once small fishing village flourished as a resort in the Belle Epoque era. The first luxury hotel opened in 1904 – now the Hotel Royal-Riviera. In the 1950s, it attracted artists like Jean Cocteau and Henri Matisse, as well as movie stars such as Roger Moore and Elizabeth Taylor, Charlie Chaplin and Tony Curtis. Today you can still spot famous faces sipping coffee by the quayside.

My tip is to follow one of the marked trails with a free leaflet from the Tourist Office. Explore the village centre and the hidden beaches and monuments around the headlands. You could even walk the 9km-trail to Nice and catch a No 15 bus back.

Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

But don’t leave without visiting the outstanding Villa and Gardens of Ephrussi de Rothschild. Another Jardin Remarquable as well as a Monument Historique. This extraordinary property with sea views on both sides offers nine themed gardens, musical fountains, and an opulent interior, plus the irresistible story of the extraordinary Béatrice de Rothschild who created it. Well, maybe not all local residents have been low key, but she did leave something for us all to enjoy!

Getting Around

Catch a train from Nice to the seafront station at Villefranche, or hop off the Nice Grand Tour sightseeing bus. Eze is also accessible by train – sea level station beneath the medieval village – or by public bus from Nice (Line 82) or by train. www.nicetourisme.com

The French Riviera Pass gives free access to a wide range of attractions and activities in Nice, as well as Villefranche, Eze and Cap-Ferrat. Choose from 12, 48 or 72 hours (www.frenchrivierapass.com).

Alternatively, do as I did and take a bespoke tour by car with Villefranche resident Sandra Ottaviani. Particularly good if time is short or you are travelling in a small group. (www.inspiring-cotedazur.com).

Gillian Thornton is a writer who specialises in France and lifestyle.

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Can there be anywhere more magical than the snowy French Alps at Christmas? We think not!

There’s a ton of choice for festive Christmas markets but we’ve picked our top 5, plus where to stay to make the most of your magical time in the French mountains…

Annecy

Nicknamed the “Venice of the Alps” Annecy – a year-round delight – positively sparkles in winter and its Christmas Market is irresistibly enchanting. There are 80 pop-up chalets where artisans offer a range of handmade goods, and local produce. There’s an open air ice skating rink, concerts and cribs, plus seriously tempting food stalls – rustic, scrumptious raclette and tasty tartiflette – and twinkling fairy lights galore. Annecy’s festive market runs from 19^th November to 1 January 2023 and really channels the true spirit of Christmas.

Wrap up warm and wander the frosty cobbled streets of the old town. From the castle at the top of the town you’ll have great views over the surroundings. Whizz about the ice skating rink that’s set up for Christmas. Enjoy the sparkling lights. Stop for a hot chocolate at one of the many cosy cafés. Enjoy an aperitif at an outdoor café when the dusk turns velvet blue. With the snowy mountains backdrop this is an irresistible place for a festive holiday.Find out more about Annecy and the Annecy Mountains resorts at: www.annecymountains.com

Les Gets, Portes du Soleil

They say that Santa Claus lives with his elves in Les Gets! Well it might not be true but this lovely resort does have a very festive vibe at Christmas. There’s a Christmas market, shows and fireworks. Superb pistes are suitable for skiers of all ages, including a Snow Garden for little ones. There’s also ski-joering, electric snow mobile and much more.

But it’s at dusk when this town reveals its unique magic. Alta Lumina is a sound and light show in an enchanted forest. If you ever read a fairy tale as a kid and wondered what it would be like to be “in” a land of fairy tales, this is probably how it would look, sound and feel. Trilling bird song, thousands of lights, and state of the art projection sees a hot air balloon lift off in in the forest and lead you through a story. It isn’t Disney, it has a gentle, soft, authentic vibe, drawing you into the heart of the forest, whispering of magic and bewitching tales.

Megève

At around 1.2km above sea level, Megève was once a medieval farming village. It’s now a charming, incredibly pretty ski destination with several Michelin starred restaurants. In winter the town puts on its Ritziest look and sparkles with thousands of lights. The central Christmas tree will be illuminated from 3 December until the end of the year and there’s a fun-filled calendar of events throughout the month including a Christmas market, parades, concerts, Reindeer visits, aperitifs in an igloo and much more. Find all the details: megeve-tourisme.fr/en

Val d’Arly

Lying between Megève and Albertville, the Valley of Arly comprises four village ski resorts with superb skiing and snow sports, including electric moon bikes. Traditional Christmas markets take place in each of the different resorts from 18-21 December. Views of the majestic Mont-Blanc, mugs of mulled wine – the steam making patterns in the air, gingerbread and dazzling snowy peaks. It’s got the lot. Find out more at the Val d’Arly Tourist office website valdarly-montblanc.com

La Clusaz Aravis

There are plenty of gorgeous postcard pretty Alpine villages close to Annecy for a festive and feel good visit. But don’t miss out on La Clusaz’s incredible Christmas Festival, the Pesticales du Pere Noel. The lovely resort has been celebrating this fun event for more than 20 years – the biggest family street theatre in the winter in the Alps! It’s all about celebrating in this Christmas wonderland. It’s completely free and takes place 19-31 December 2023. Find out more: en.laclusaz.com

It might not surprise you to know that mostly – Christmas in France is all about food… so buckle up, or maybe unbuckle your belt, for a fun, festive and foodie podcast: The A to Z of Christmas in France

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