ViaRhôna cycle route From the Alpes to the Mediterranean

For some, going on a journey is not just about reaching the destination. It’s about enjoying the process of the journey, the discovery of the surroundings which we find ourselves in as we move towards the destination says Amy Macpherson as she traces the path of the Rhône river via the ViaRhôna cycle route, through the villages and towns that line its banks, from the Alps to the sea.

ViaRhôna cycle route

My journey followed the ViaRhôna, one of France’s newest, still developing bike routes which, when completed, will take explorers on a slow journey of 505 miles (813 km). The entire trip would normally take around two weeks, but it was time I didn’t have. So I began at a halfway point, from the town of Vienne whose history stretches back to the Celtic period in 5BC, before becoming the ancient capital of Roman Gaul, and where the mighty Empire built two amphitheatres and a forum. Today Vienne is a vibrant city which hosts one of the most popular jazz festivals in France.

Before I set off, I needed supplies, bike-packing is hungry work. Vienne has a plethora of delicious bakeries and chocolateries. Try the galet du Rhône at Panel chocolaterie, a local favourite for almost a century, the hazelnut, praline and almond concoction in a nougatine shell, dipped in rich chocolate and smothered in dark chocolate powder is utterly scrumptious. And La Fromagerie Viennoise stocks delicious cheeses, perfect paired with a crispy baguette. While you’re in the city, don’t miss a visit to the Roman Temple of Augustus and the Gallo-Roman ruins at Jardin de Cybèle.

On a bright and sunny late Spring morning, I peddled across the river onto the official ViaRhôna path, leaving the traffic and the sounds of Vienne behind me. The fully sign posted and traffic-free greenway follows the route of the Rhône River flowing alongside. To the right is the Pilat regional nature park, treating riders to a soundtrack of birdsongs and cricket chirps among the trees that provide shade.

Following the route of the Rhone river

Other than occasional cyclists or walkers, I was mostly alone. I watched the Rhône change as the light of the day moved from east to west, and by the time I reached my destination for the day, having already stopped briefly in between for a quick lunch break, the river was like a sheet of dark silvery steel. That night, I stayed in a lovely Gite in the village of Sablons and was treated to a warm welcome and a hearty home cooked feast.

The Rhône is the only major river system that flows from the glacier source near Geneva, all the way to the mouth of the river at the Mediterranean Sea. Its mood changes with the environment. The next day, as I woke to the light of the morning and pushed out onto the greenway to continue after breakfast, the river had also awoken to a shade of pine green, slowly shedding its Alpine milky-blue character as it flows towards the warmer southern climate.

Vineyards to the sea

Vineyards and farmlands dot this stretch of the ViaRhôna, and the entire way was lined with apricot trees full of lusciously ripened fruits. Arriving in Tournon-sur-Rhône in time for lunch, I stopped off at the La Péniche Slow Food Café on a barge. It is so easy to simply while away the hours gazing at the river from the café, but there’s lots to see and do in nearby Tournon St Jean. You can hop on a historic train – steam or diesel with your bike and see the stunning countryside – the Doux Valley and its gorges. Or take the market train which stops off at some of the best markets in Ardèche, fill your basket with fresh fruit, chestnuts, the local Picodon goats’ cheese and more.

Pedal across the bridge to the Tain L’Hermitage side of the river and make a beeline for the Cité du Chocolat ValRhôna museum and shop. And squeeze in a visit to the Côtes du Rhône vineyards which reach down to town’s streets. Row after row of carefully positioned Syrah, Marsannes and Roussanes vines, supported by dry stone terraces, blanket the hills that flank the river. You can hike, bike or segway your way around the vineyards or take the little tourist train up to the top for some fantastic views. Make time for a wine tasting at Maison M. Chapoutier, their 2020 Chante-Alouette white is particularly excellent!

A welcoming cycle route!

Onwards and southwards I rode, towards the sunny city of Valence, where I stayed in the cyclist friendly Hôtel Les Négociants where I was greeted like an old friend. I stayed just one night in each place I visited but, you may be tempted to linger longer. Valence’s charming gardens and buildings with history carved into their walls, its wonderful museum and fabulous wine shops will tempt you to stay, but for me it was time to set off again after a quick visit.

The terrain starts to become wilder from this part, the paved greenways occasionally become compact dirt tracks. It is an uplifting journey, with sweeping views of the mighty Rhône which by now is wider and wilder, breaking off into short tributaries.

In between bigger cities like Lyon, Valence and Avignon, there are multiple beautifully preserved historic villages that are little known to visitors. As I followed the itinerary, I passed the pickled-in-the-past Pouzin, pretty Baix and Montélimar, famous for its nougat. At the cute little commune of Rochemaure the route crosses the curious Himalayan-style footbridge (la Passerelle de Rochemaure). And in the evening, I reached Viviers, a quiet medieval village, and the perfect place to spend the night.

Of course, even in the most well-planned journeys through the most beautiful places, there are sometimes imperfections. The next day, my final day of cycling, it rained. I contemplated the train station about five minutes ride away. I could ‘cheat’ and take the train to Avignon in Provence, my final destination. Bikes can be taken on regional French trains for free, making it easy to plan for days like this on a cycle tour. On the other hand, I was curious. I had followed the river thus far, watched it twist and change, enjoyed witnessing the life along its banks. So, with my wet weather gear on, I pushed on.

A joyful journey

And it turned out to be a great choice. Rain makes it harder to see the sights, but it brings out the fragrances of the earth. Between sleepy Lapalud and Caderousse are fields of lavender and sunflowers, their scent perfumed the air, making me forget that I was cycling in the rain. Instead, I found myself humming all the way to the Papal City, entering via the newly opened Île de la Barthelasse, a grand entrance to the end of my trip.

The ViaRhôna itinerary has so many villages and towns to visit along the way, but the real highlight may be the simple pleasure of cycling alongside the majestic Rhône, through the tranquil and idyllic countryside – the joy of a true journey.

Visit en.viarhona.com for further information including where to rent a bike (there are several companies along the route, cycle-friendly accommodation and heaps more.Amy McPherson is a London based travel writer whose work has been featured in international publications. Cats, cycling and food features heavily in her writing and her blog at: www.footprintsandmemories.com