When the first stone was laid to create a new resort in the heart of the French Alps Paradiski area, the world’s second largest ski area, Arc 1950 was way ahead of its time. The pioneering, innovative concept of a pedestrianised ski resort, entirely ski-in-ski-out, with harmonised architecture in an area chosen to limit its impact on the local nature but giving access to 425km of slopes, was considered cutting edge. As it reaches its 20^th anniversary, Arc 1950 in Savoie is now considered to be one of the most stunning ski villages in the world, and a ground-breaking model that’s inspired a slew of ski resorts.

Discover a snowy Paradise and family-friendly ski resort in the heart of the French Alps says Janine Marsh.

High altitude, snow sure

Arc 1950 is a standout ski resort for all powder hounds. The ‘1950’ represents the resort’s height of metres above sea level making it one of the highest ski villages in Europe. And that kind of altitude means snow cover at resort level is the norm from the start of the season in early December right through to the end of April. The slopes rise to 3250 metres above sea level, with permanently snow-covered peaks, and to make sure there’s plenty of quality snow, there’s an extensive snowmaking network in place.

You’ll find a vast range of winter activities from skiing, snowboarding, cross country skiing, heli-skiing, husky-riding, snow parks, toboggan runs and much more.

The pretty, low-rise village facing majestic Mont Blanc, wraps around a central, car-free plaza, with an off-shoot of the Baptiste Giabiconi blue piste running right through the middle. As a result, it offers almost instant access to the snow from every one of its eight ski in/out residences – all of which have a 5-Star rating. You can start skiing as soon as you’ve snapped your boot buckles shut!

Family friendly

The ski-in-ski-out residences are connected by path and piste in the car-free resort, creating a safe environment for families to walk in the snowy village streets. Two ski schools mean that all levels and ages are catered for. There’s free year-round entertainment for the whole family. In winter enjoy the ski shows, cookery workshops, concerts, illuminations and more. In summer there are organised games, tennis, workshops, shows, concerts and more. And at Christmas there’s a magical parade, fireworks, music, concerts, singing and dancing, the perfect way to end the year.

For Arc 1950’s 20^th birthday there will be even more entertainment including snow sculpture workshops, and the introduction of a biathlon and scooter race on the snow.

At this resort the service is a notch above the usual. They don’t just sort out rental equipment and ski passes, they can provide help with babysitters, children’s clubs and activities for hard-to-please teens. You can order shopping in advance, (there are plenty of shops), and have it delivered to your apartment, and even put away in the fridge – ready for your arrival and a brilliantly relaxing holiday right from the start.

Art de vivre and fabulous food

And if you want to eat out, you’ll find there are lots of lovely cafés and restaurants which are all ski to the door. Sit on a sunny terrace and soak up the glorious sights, chill in front of a crackling log fire, tuck into mountain specialities – the local favourite “Le Chausson du Boulanger” (a sort of Savoyard pie, made with cabbage, sour cream, Beaufort cheese and sausage) is a must. Although, you may never fit into your salopettes again!

There’s an authentic ‘village’ feel to Arc 1950 which gives it real charm, alongside loads of fantastic facilities. Indoor swimming pool, outdoor heated pool, hammam, sauna, Jacuzzi, even a thalassotherapy spa, this luxury resort offers the perfect way to unwind, relax and rejuvenate – and all of the eight residences in Arc have wellness areas and sports amenities worthy of one of France’s top luxury mountain resorts.

Eco conscious

Arc 1950’s eco credentials go way beyond the car-free approach. Quiet zones have been created to protect birds. The resort also practices recycling, and they are planning a composting project. Plus the resort holds a ‘Flocon Vert’ green label awarded for proactive sustainable development.

Easy access by train, plane or car

If you arrive by car, you can leave it in the underground car park and from here there is direct access to your accommodation. The nearest airport is Chambery, but Geneva, Lyon and Grenoble are also good choices. For those arriving in Bourg Saint Maurice by train and funicular railway, free shuttle buses run to Arc 1950.

Details: arc1950.com

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The French Alps are the world’s leading winter sports and skiing destination. With more than 8,000km of slopes and nearly 2,400 ski lifts, there’s a huge choice of wonderful experiences and landscapes. Discover the some of the best places to ski in the French Alps…

Something for every level of skier

It doesn’t matter whether you’re a beginner or have more experience. You may be looking for a large international resort or a more traditional ski station in an authentic village. Perhaps you want a family holiday or a sports holiday, cross-country or Nordic skiing. In the French Alps, there are resorts to suit everyone and every ability.

The best ski resorts for a family holiday

Saint-Gervais Mont Blanc

Saint-Gervais Mont Blanc is one of the best resorts for multi-generational family holidays, especially if not everyone is skiing. Saint-Gervais might be one of the lower altitude resorts, but that also means it has the old historic charm of a mountain village and a strong cultural programme. It is also home to one of Europe’s finest thermal water spas nestled in the Thermal Park. For the skiers in the family, the resort is linked by a brand-new lift to the 400km large ski area Évasion Mont-Blanc, which in 2021 also welcomed a new beginner’s area.

As of September 2024, access to the resort has taken a monumental step forward as a new gondola has been inaugurated, which seamlessly links the TGV station in the valley to the resort itself. This not only cuts local road traffic for years to come, but it also opens up train travel from London and Paris direct to the resort. Alternatively, Geneva is a 45-minute transfer away.

Arc 1950, Savoie

Arc 1950 in the famous Paradiski area, is a standout ski resort for all powder hounds. The ‘1950’ represents the resort’s height of metres above sea level making it one of the highest ski villages in Europe. And that kind of altitude means snow cover at resort level is the norm from the start of the season in early December right through to the end of April. The village is an architectural masterpiece and every residence is ski-in ski-out and completely pedestrianised.

Villard-de-Lans, Isère

The biggest family resort in the Vercors, you’ll find long slopes and forested tracks that are perfect for cross-skiers and snow-shoe walking. There are also gentle, wide slopes that are great for beginners.

Flaine, Haute-Savoie

Located in the Haute Savoie region, and part of the Grand Massif ski-ing area, Flaine has earned itself the nickname of “big snowy bowl”, as it boasts one of the best snow records in the French Alps. And for those travelling with children in tow, Flaine is a perfect ski spot for families. Just one of several reasons for this is that it’s actually possible to ski purely blue runs if wanted here, and yet still take in the best views of the Grand Massif area – which has 70 lifts taking you to no less than 148 runs.

This makes for a perfect afternoon treat for children still honing their skills in ski school to be able to enjoy showing off their new-found talents with their parents, without having to tackle taxing pistes with tired legs. There’s also a nursery school for newcomers with a magic carpet. Read our review of Flaine for skiers of all levels.

Combloux, Haute-Savoie

Combloux is the family ski resort par excellence with 66 runs for all levels.  There’s a beginners’ area, red runs, and safe off-piste areas. There are also two toboggan runs, snow garden, gardiski centre and a day-care centre for children aged six months and over. Combloux holds the “Famille Plus” label, recognition for their commitment to welcoming families and offering them great services and entertainment. There’s a wide range of activities from farm visits and ski-joering to dog-sledding. You’ll never be bored!

Samoëns

Samoëns, in the Grand Massif ski area, just 1 hour and 10 minutes’ drive from Geneva airport, is a beautiful alpine village, ancient and very French. It’s the only French mountain resort classified as a national heritage site (Caisse Nationale des Monuments Historiques) and its church, according to records, dates from the 12th century, although was finally completed in 1555.  It’s super-friendly and there’s loads going on to keep the whole family entertained from bands, to wooden games in the market place and parades! Read our guide to family skiing in Samoëns

Courchevel

Courchevel holds the “Family Plus” label, which commits the resort to ensuring your family holiday is a success. There’s a personalised welcome for families, and activities that are adapted to suit all ages at a price to suit all budgets. You’ll find family accommodation, accessible shops and facilities close by, and professional childcare. Events include sled racing, guided lantern descents, skating galas and a water park centre with an indoor surf wave pool.

For those who love an active ski holiday

Val d’Isère

Val d’Isère is great for the most experienced riders. The ski area is unrivalled for variety and difficulty, thanks to its link with the resort of Tignes. You’ll enjoy more than 10,000 hectares of off-piste skiing, one of the largest areas in the world. Its black runs are also very popular with thrill-seekers, in particular La Face de Bellevarde. There’s plenty here to please serious skiers who plan to spend all their time on the slopes.

Montgènevre, Haute-Alpes

Montgènevre is not well known and that’s what gives it part of its charm. It’s way down south, technically the French Cottian Alps on the Italian border, in fact you can ski into Italy from here! Plenty of snow and a great choice of ski runs make this a great ski location. Runs include blues, reds, and endless off-piste delights. If you feel fit, try a top-to-bottom non-stopper and earn yourself boasting rights in Le Graal, Montgènevre’s après ski epicentre.

Montgènevre’s next door neighbour is Claviere in Italy. And, beyond little Claviere, is the Via Lattea –The Milky Way – 400km of pistes and the resorts of Sestriere, Sauze d’Oulx, San Sicario, and Cesana. You can choose to stay within a local sector or buy a lift pass for all. It’s entirely doable in a day. Read our review of Montgènevre

Chamonix

Chamonix is the ultimate Alpine ski resort for those looking for speed and thrills. Endless slopes, varied terrain and off-piste skiing in powder are there for the most experienced skiers. Sheltering at the foot of the majestic Mont Blanc mountain, Chamonix has around 100 pistes spread over 119km, at altitudes of between 1,040 and 3,275m. There are 18 green runs, 43 blue and 15 black, one of which is almost 19km long. It’s easy to see why Chamonix is nicknamed the capital of skiing and mountaineering.

Avoriaz

The ski resort of Avoriaz is in the heart of the Portes du Soleil – one of the largest ski areas in the world. The area has 12 resorts linked by almost 600km of pistes and is an ideal playground for those who love extreme skiing. If you like to mix up your routes, you can ski not just in Avioraz but in Châtel and Morzine.  Renowned for its freestyle areas and snowparks, Avoriaz offers facilities for all abilities. It also boasts several marked and ungroomed trails, perfect for powder days. There are water parks, bars, restaurants, nightclubs and both the Rock the Pistes and Snowboxx music festivals.

For a ski holiday with friends

Tignes

Tignes is a great choice if you’re looking for a holiday that is both sporty and lively. This famous resort boasts 300km of slopes that are accessible both for beginners and more experienced skiers. Wide slopes with soft curves, a snow park, boardercross, beginners’ area and freeride zones so if your group don’t all ski at the same level – Tignes is the ideal resort. There’s a great choice of restaurants, bars, cinema, bowling and nightclubs.

Arêches-Beaufort, Savoie

Not well-known, in fact rather a secret ski location. And not for those seeking a pumping techno, Jaeger bombs and general carnage each evening type resort. But if you like your pistes uncrowded, a genuine welcome from the locals, great French good and picturesque skiing – Arêches-Beaufort might be just the place for you. It will never claim to be the next big thing, but it definitely could be the next small thing. A really worthy destination for a relatively exclusive ski short break. Read more about Arêches-Beaufort

Val Thorens

Val Thorens is an ideal choice for a mountain holiday with friends. Sitting at the heart of three mountain chains, it is the highest resort in Europe (2,300m)and part of the 3 Valleys area – the largest ski area in the world. During the day, there’s downhill skiing, cross-country skiing and many other winter sports on the 600km of slopes. And at night, there’s a thumping après-ski vibe, with many bars or clubs in the resort.

For a winter holiday without skiing?

La Clusaz, Haute-Savoie

La Clusaz, just a 30-minute drive from Annecy, has held the Famille Plus label for more than 10 years  and is a perfect resort for a family ski holiday. With 85 slopes (30 red, 31 blue and 16 green), 125km of in total, there’s something to suit all levels, including the youngest on the safe green slopes. Here they can try out these activities before they head out on the trails. Plenty of events and activities are on offer from toboggan runs to a Reblochon cheese-themed run!

The resort is also one of the largest Nordic ski areas in Haute Savoie. The popular Confins area has 63km of trails, which meander across snowy plains and woodland. The nearby Beauregard plateau has another 36km of runs, with wonderful views over the village and the Aravis mountains, with Mont Blanc beyond them.

Les Arcs

Not everyone who loves mountains and snow, likes to ski all day long. So what is there that doesn’t involve racing down those snowy white slopes? There are plenty of non-ski activities that will make your cheeks rosy and mean you can really enjoy the snow without the skis! From adrenaline-fueled to totally chilled Les Arcs is one of the best areas to head to with snow-shoeing, hiking, Nordic walking, dog sledding, tobogganing and terrific apres-ski. Read our review of Les Arcs for non-ski activities

Travel guide

LeShuttle offers a flexible, low carbon footprint way of travelling to the Alps with your own car – no equipment charges on airlines or need for lengthy resort transfers.

Five reasons to travel to the French Alps by car

Save money: The cost of flights and car hire has significantly increased in recent years making LeShuttle an economical option for travel to Europe, particularly for groups and families. If you have multiple people in your car, it’s likely to work out cheaper than flights.

No airport transfers: Airport transfers to hotels or resorts can involve waiting on other passengers, baggage issues and other delays. Driving yourself means you can get straight to your accommodation and choose travel times to suit you.

Flexibility: Taking a car allows skiers to pack in more than the amount aircraft baggage allowance permits, which is ideal for those who don’t fancy travelling lightly. Another luggage perk is that you also avoid the airline fees that come with taking additional items like snowboards and skis. Plus – you can easily change resorts if the snow conditions aren’t great.

Family friendly: Driving to a ski resort is great for families. You can stop frequently at service stations to let the kids stretch their legs, plus they’ll find it easier to relax and nod off.

Head ‘off-piste’: Make the most of the journey and enjoy all that France has to offer on your way to or from the slopes – take a break for lunch, dinner or overnight. Stop off in Champagne or Burgundy, or one of the wine regions en route and fill your boot with supplies.

Bonus: Enjoy tax-free shopping and you could recoup the cost of your LeShuttle ticket with your savings!

Book your trip with LeShuttle at: www.leshuttle.com

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Swoosh down the pistes, go fat biking, snowmobiling, sledging or snowshoe hiking, take a horse-drawn carriage ride and enjoy the snowy mountain peaks. In the evening, pop off your skis and have some fun! There’s so much to do in the French Alps in winter and for New Year celebrations you’re spoiled for choice.

Warm up in your cosy chalet, admire the magical scenery from a hot tub, chill out in a sauna, take a dip in a heated pool – your accommodation in the French Alps is part of the fun…

Courchevel

In Courchevel the skiing is glorious but there’s plenty more to do. Why not go ice diving at the lake of Courchevel Le Praz (1,300m above sea level). Or try your hand at driving a ski groomer in a 470-horsepower piste caterpillar, accompanied by a professional. And in the evening enjoy the festive winter nightlife. For New Year there are three days of events with entertainment including theatre, music, dance and fireworks – great for friends, couples and families (29-31 December).

Meribel

In picturesque Meribel, New Year’s Eve brings a special torch lit descent, where skiers head to the slopes by candlelight as fireworks explode overhead. This is followed by a giant party on the piste with free hot drinks, music and more fireworks. When the party’s over, winter is the ideal time to go snowboarding, snowshoeing and husky-dog sledging in the Mottaret Mountains, while the ice skating rinks in Meribel town centre will keep the whole family entertained.

Val Thorens

Like Meribel, Val Thorens ski resort hosts a torchlight parade, suitable for all ages, followed by a fireworks display to say goodbye to the old year while Place Caron rocks to the beat as DJ’s play the funkiest sounds. In the Saint-Martin-de-Bellville commune, Val Thorens is a fun winter destination with plenty of events including a rather unusual Australia Day (26 January) – with fancy dress, a giant barbecue and all things Australian!

Aravis resorts

Magical Manigod with its Narnia-like scenery, Le Grand Bornand and La Clusaz with their fabulous pistes and vibrant village life and lovely St Jean de Sixt – each part of the Aravis Massif resorts offers something different. On New Year’s Eve there’s an unmissable masked ball in Le Grand Bornand!

Go night skiing. Ogle the majestic Mont Blanc from the beautiful Beauregard Plateau. Take a cheese tasting in the village of Manigod. Go ice bumping in La Clusaz – yup,  bumper cars on ice! Whizz down the sledge run at St Jean de Sixt – suitable for all ages! Relax in a hot tub (photo La Grange a l’Ours, Manigod).

Dreamy chalets

And when you’re not outdoors having fun, you can be indoors having fun, chilling out and enjoying your best life in a gorgeous chalet. Where you stay is as much a part of your French Alps winter holiday as the snow. There are plenty of restaurants but self-catering is also a great experience with bakeries, fromageries, epiceries and supermarkets in the towns and villages. Plus stock up at the regular markets where you’ll find great cheeses and charcuterie, and make fondue, raclette and tartiflette – perfect fuel for your Alpine adventures.

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When booking your ski trip, there is often a trade-off between convenience and charm. Samoëns, in the Grand Massif ski area, just 1 hour and 10 minutes’ drive from Geneva airport, is a beautiful alpine village, ancient and very French…

It’s a tale of love at first sight for travel writer Rachel Ifans, whose guide to family skiing in Samoëns reveals why this resort is a winner…

What’s great about skiing in Samoëns?

I’ve been to a range of ski resorts in the French Alps over the last decade – from Les Gets to Flaine and back again, but the one that stays in my memory the most is Peisey Vallandry, a wonderfully inaccessible village perché on the side of a mountain, seemingly unsullied by tourists, inhabited by families who’d lived there for generations, who farmed the land in summer and who piste-bashed their way through the winter months. Always a hint of wood smoke in the air, always a weather-worn smile of welcome at the local shops.

But after a trip to Samoëns, I’ve got a feeling I’ve fallen for it in much the same way. The skiing is great and well connected (part of Grand Massif) but, to be honest, it’s a bit clunky getting from town to the slopes. It’s not insurmountable but the convenience of newer resorts is lacking. Hang on, though, I’m talking about falling in love here – and common sense never played a part in that!

Booking a ski trip is a head/heart situation. If you’re choosing with your head, sure, go for the high-rise, ski-in-ski-out resorts – there are plenty of them! But, if you want to fall a bit in love with your ski resort, you’ll need to go to Samoëns.

Un coup de coeur in Samoëns

It’s hard to explain why some things tug at your heart strings while some things don’t do it for you at all. And, bold francophile that I am, I’m going to give you a few illustrations of why I loved it so.

It’s really French. Many ski resorts, some of which I also love dearly (yes, that’s you, Les Gets) feel culturally homogenous, just a bit international, in comparison to Samoëns. It’s like a stubborn French lady who refuses to chuck out her stale bread, or an obstinate fromager who would not allow a crumbly cheddar over his threshold. It really is just so French there.

It’s old. The name Samoëns dates from the early 12th century and is said to derive from a word meaning ‘the seven mountains’. The locals here are known as ‘septimontain(e)s’ and the boulangeries in town do a fantastic cake that is reminiscent of a bakewell tart that is called just that.

It’s the only French mountain resort classified as a national heritage site (Caisse Nationale des Monuments Historiques) and its church, according to records, dates from the 12th century, although was finally completed in 1555. The village has a long history of stonemasonry; many of the buildings survive today, like the pillared and covered marketplace in the main square. Older still is Le Gros Tilleul, an ancient and imposing lime tree, planted in the square in the mid-1400s.

A friendly ski resort

It has character. We saw it all. From oompapa bands in the town square, swing music serenades at the bottom of the gondola in the mornings, chunky wooden games in the marketplace, crazy people on stilts leading a NYE parade around the streets.

It’s so friendly. Never has that stereotypically rude-French rep seemed so wrong-footed. We couldn’t believe how nice everyone we met was. No sign of frustration at the tourist-heavy queues, no annoyance at the lack of language skills, the people in shops, manning lifts, running ski schools, serving in cafés and restaurant were unfailingly friendly.

It’s not chic. It doesn’t have schmanzy bars serving Apero Spritz and sharing platters. To give you an idea, we were regulars at two bars on the main square: Bar Le Samoëns and Bar Le Savoie. All you hear are French voices (even during a school holiday peak week). Think standard French bar, lots of seats, big TV playing sport, waiter zooming around, tray aloft.

A bit of a drag

No-one and nowhere is perfect, and I’ve hinted already that it’s a bit of a drag (‘scuse the pun) to get to the slopes from Samoëns town. So, the key is to make things as easy as possible for yourselves. In terms of planning, I recommend prioritising your accommodation and hiring ski kit wisely too.

So, for lodging. If you don’t want to walk even a little bit, I advise getting somewhere close to the gondola.

At the end of a great day’s skiing, if we didn’t feel like walking there were free ski buses. We would peel off on foot to the town to buy the evening meal and have an après-ski drink – or two – on the way. Poulet roti and baguettes tucked under our arms, the walk back is just lovely.

Getting kitted out

We hired our kit from a wonderful family business – called Roland Gay – with branches in town and on the plateau too. Roland himself is hands on and works alongside his impeccable team of experts. The kit is top notch. We also took advantage of one of Roland’s heated lockers on the mountain. Just 30 metres down a short slope from the top of the Grand Massif Express (GME) cable car, our locker meant we could leave skis, boots, helmets, bags, poles overnight, making the walk and the cable car (almost) effortless.

If you want a heated locker, you have to book well in advance for peak weeks.

There are many ski hire options everywhere. Extreme Glisse, for instance, is another good option right at the bottom of the gondola that is worth a look.

What’s the skiing like in Samoëns?

You take the GME cable car from just outside Samoëns village. It takes a few minutes to get up through the fluff before you float to an eyeball-burning winter wonderland that’s inconceivable below the cloud level. It’s a mecca for beginners with loads of nursery slopes, easy Blues and drag lifts.

If you’re an experienced skier, there’s not much on this plateau – you’ll need to take an express chairlift called the Charmiande Express which hoists you out of Samoëns and into the realms of Les Carroz, Flaine, Morillion and Sixt. This connecting lift is quick but it creates a potential bottleneck; there is probably a 10-minute queue when things are at their busiest.

So, you need to wise up and time your approach. Get there early and take advantage of myriad pistes over the hill. You have to return to Samoëns1600 if you’re dropping kids at ski school in the afternoon and then it’s hard to avoid queues as bibbed infants and liberated parents descend on the Express at the same time after drop off. My advice: drop your kids bang on time and flee before the rush.

Coming back in time for the last cable car down to town is another pinch point, as there are certain lifts you HAVE to use to get home and everyone is doing it at the same times. Not only once did I yearn for the option to ski down to town at the end of the day. The queue to get back to town at 16:45 was the part of Samoëns ski that we didn’t enjoy. Tired children, cold children, long waits, stamped-on feet, passive aggressive behaviour, the distant lure of vin chaud.

Impressive ski area

Niggles aside, the ski area is impressive – great for beginners and early intermediates. In school holidays, the blue runs got busy and it was sometimes a bit of a bunfight, especially at the top of pistes before people dispersed. Reds were a different experience, and when we got to grips with the slopes on offer we found fantastic snowparks and off-piste potential.

There are plenty of pistes above the tree line but we also enjoyed Les Carroz with its tree-lined pistes. I skied down a very long blue with a divine scent of Boeuf Bourgignon in my nostrils, wafting up from a restaurant at the base. Considering there was no snowfall while we were there (and a lot of sun), the pistes held up well and were entirely skiable every day.

Ski lessons for kids at Samoëns

We booked our kids’ ski lessons which consisted of small groups for 2.5 hours, well-judged levels and fab instruction. Our two were working for their Gold and Diamond badges so there was a mix of technique and fun through the week. They were the kind of lessons that have you looking at your kids and marvelling at how confident they’ve become.

Eating out in Samoëns

Down to brass tacks now, here are my notes on nosh, starting with a general point on piste eating: there aren’t many cafés on the slopes in this ski area compared to other places we’ve been, so you need to time pitstops and toilet trips well.

Restaurant Lou Caboëns. It’s on the right slightly back on yourself coming out of the GME – there’s a restaurant with a good rep (but you need to book ahead) and a popular outdoor snack bar. Good price too – but get there early for lunch as the queues get long!

La Gamelle is a snack bar on the plateau. A nice spot, out of the way of passing skiers, and you catch the late afternoon sun. Basic, but decent and good value. Seating is mostly outside.

Croc Blanc. Beautiful views but no loos – that rhymes! This is the only lunch spot at the top of the Charniande Express/Tete des Saix lifts. The spaghetti carbonara was delicious and beautifully decorated with artistic carrot shavings, and we also had good croque monsieur and fries here.

Shopping for self-caterers

As for the food options in Samoëns village, these are our stand-out spots:

Boulangerie Tiffanie. There are at least two branches – one at the bottom of the GME and one right in the village centre. They do excellent baguettes and fantastic cakes from the Exotika passion fruit pud, to the local septimontain tarts, and not forgetting the oreillettes, wafer-thin, crunchy bread sheets sprinkled with icing sugar.

Traiteur Le Pied de Poule. Restaurant-quality meals for tired people who don’t want to go out to eat – on various days we ate their lasagne, regional cooked sausage called diots, a gorgeous canard, dauphinoise potatoes and, of course, poulet roti

AltiPizz – lovely thin base and excellent toppings. Take away or eat in – just off the main square

The supermarkets in town can get packed, particularly on weekends. There is a Carrefour 2km away: a quick drive or a lovely walk through a lakeside park and frosty woodland.

More on Samoëns

Summer fun – Samoëns  is not just for skiers
5 springtime activities to try in Samoëns 
Why Samoëns is perfect for adventurers
Samoëns tourism: www.samoens.com/en

Rachel Ifans is a British journalist and editor, covering a wide range of lifestyle and travel subjects, but she always returns to her first love, France.

The post Guide to family skiing in Samoëns, French Alps appeared first on The Good Life France.

Not everyone who loves mountains and snow, likes to ski all day long. So what is there that doesn’t involved racing down those snowy white slopes? Here are our top tips for non-ski activities that will make your cheeks rosy and mean you can really enjoy the snow without the skis! From adrenaline-fueled to totally chilled…

Fabulous and fun things for non-skiers to do in Les Arcs

Snow-shoeing and hiking

In my search for off piste adventure, I headed into the forest to give snow shoeing a try. Snow-shoeing is diverse, brilliant fun and not as hard as you may think. You need a good pair of boots and a guide who will supply you with snow-shoes and poles.

My first guide was Antoine who offers a whole host of snow-shoeing and hiking activities (www.baladesducolporteur.com). You can snow-shoe for as little as an hour or for a whole week. There’s a wonderful day long snow-shoe hike which involves a fondue lunch at an Alpine chalet. Plus, there’s night snow-shoeing. And, an overnight option to sleep in a log cabin in the mountains.

Antoine’s style is pretty relaxed. He clearly knows these mountains and their heritage well, and he’ll soon have you snow-jumping, and bouncing down steep descents which you never thought you’d be capable of. Although perhaps his most impressive feat is producing a large and delicious cake from his backpack along with hot tea at 2,000m!

With Mont Blanc in the distance, you can walk in the Mont Blanc forest, in the Beaufortain mountains opposite Les Arcs and up the Petit St Bernard pass along the French Italian border. Antoine caters for varying levels of fitness and stops often – to point out a bird, a particular tree or a mountain. And nothing beats the fact that you’re high up and off the beaten track, in amongst the pines, listening to the silence of the snowy mountains.

Nordic Walking

My second guide, Marie was much more spiritual (Facebook: Marie.Randos). A botanist, Marie’s style of snow shoeing resembled Nordic walking as she taught us to use our poles and ensure we got a full body work out. Marie explained the energy of the forest, the detail of the botany and we stopped to practice Qigong, yoga and meditation along the way. It was just as enjoyable as snow-shoeing with Antoine but a very different experience.

Visit La Passerelle

With its peak at over 3226m, the Aiguille Rouge is the highest peak in the Paradiski valley, and they’ve just installed a breath-taking viewing platform, La Passerelle.

To get there, you just take the Varet cable car from Arc 2000 – although check the weather first because it’s not always open. At the peak, you feel like you’re stepping into air as you enjoy 360-degree views across the top of the mountains. But beware, it’s cold at the top – even if it’s warm and sunny below!

Dog sledding

If you’re not sure you want to spend a whole week in the peaceful serenity of the mountains on foot, don’t despair, you can still get your adrenalin fix. From December to April, you can go dog sledding with a team of Alaskan Huskies, including a discovery trip and night rides. en.paradisled.com/

Tobogganing galore

And how does 3 km of toboggan track with banked turns, alternating fast and sliding sections sound? Impossibly hard for the beginner (I seemed to do most of it backwards), you do need a valid lift pass but it makes an interesting change to skiing! www.lesarcs-peiseyvallandry.ski

Relax at the Nama Springs

Tucked away in Eden Arc 1800m, is the Nama Springs spa. It has a hammam, four different saunas, a salt flotation pool and two outdoor pools. On a cold day, be warned that while swimming in the snow is wonderful, you’ll need nerves of steel to strip off and dance through the ice to get in and out of the pool.

Club Med

The Club Med Les Arcs Panorama resort opened in December 2018. It seems to melt into the mountainside of Les Arcs 1600. The inclusive resort has got pretty much everything you could expect and beyond. Snacks and drinks waiting for you as you ski off the piste. There’s food and drink of every description and an endless supply of jollity and entertainment. And, of course, kids’ ski classes and a locker service that’ll have your kit ready to hit the slopes the moment you arrive. If you’re here with your family, they really have got all bases covered! And off piste there’s an open-air jacuzzi and spa facilities.

Lunch with a view

Chalet de l’Arc (Arc 2000). The joy of Les Arcs is that it’s largely pedestrianised and you can walk to this altitude restaurant across the slopes. It’s set in an original farm building and oozes local charm. The portion sizes are gigantean. And, the local speciality “Le Chausson du Boulanger” (particularly Le Savoyard one made with cabbage, sour cream, Beaufort cheese and sausage) is a must. Although, you will never fit into your salopettes again!

By the time you feel ready to roll down the mountain, it’ll be time to head back to Club Med for a 4-course dinner! But at least with all the activities you’ve done, you feel like you’ve earned it!

Apres-ski

Arc 1800 is the liveliest village for night life and bars. For something a bit different head to the Village Igloo at Arc 2000. Open from 09.00-17.00 a unique ice grotto, bar and restaurant plus mini hotel where you can enjoy an icy aperitif. Complete with ice sculpture and carvings it’s a fun visit. From 19h they offer evening activities including an overnight stay and fondue dinner. Wrap up warm for this one – it’s chilly in the igloo!

And, for those who can’t resist a ski session, Les Arcs’ slopes are seriously varied. Whatever level you’re at from beginner to expert, there’s something to suit all. Les Arcs is part of the huge Paradiski area, with stunning views to Mont Blanc and all villages are ski-in/ski-out.

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If you crave beautiful Alpine runs, dramatic mountain backdrops, sun, fantastic ski conditions and lovely wide pistes – then you’ll certainly be in your element if you follow in our snowy footsteps to Meribel.

Meribel – Picturesque resort

As a seasoned skier, and regular visitor to the Alps over the last decade, I’m no stranger to the vast beauty of this stunning, snow-capped mountain range. But what I wasn’t expecting, on my family’s latest winter visit here, was to be so taken with the ski resort of Meribel.

Located in the middle of the largest ski area in the world, The Three Valleys boasts a ski area four times greater than the surface area of Paris. We enjoyed the best week of ski-ing we’ve ever had in the French Alps at this picturesque resort. It ticked so many boxes for my family-of-four – both on, and off-piste.

Boasting a global reputation for being one of safest places in the world to ski, the resort’s been such a hit with Brits – a third of its visitors are British – it’s even earned the nickname of “Little England on the Alps”.

Skiing at Meribel

Ski conditions here are so great because 85% of the resort is based at 1800 metres above sea level, with its 150k of pistes, accessible on a local area pass, reaching its highest peak at 2952m. But, if you plump for a Three Valleys pass, then you’ll be able to reach runs at an even higher 3230m peak and explore an impressive 600km of beautiful pistes across 335 runs.

This includes runs on the other side of Meribel, within easy reach at Courchevel, and if you have got time to venture slightly further afield, you can also ski at Val Thoren and Les Menuires.

It’s easy to see why Meribel is such a hit with families and intermediate skiers. The bulk of its 68 runs are either blue or red –  6 green, 30 blue, 25 red and 7 black. And, it’s extremely easy to traverse the slopes by tackling just green and blue runs if you’re ski-ing with young children, or beginners, in tow. There are even “Family Cool” signs indicating safe and easy pistes for families with a mix of abilities.

Off piste at Meribel

Meribel also has dedicated sledging experiences, fun snow parks, secured freeride areas, reserved racing areas and dedicated ski touring slopes.

When it comes to sledging there’s a rather exhilarating run called Mission Black Forest (you pay per run here, including sledge hire, so it can be a pricey option). Or there’s a weekly evening sledge ride, (rent a sledge and get a ticket at Coombes lift) which is great value for money, and more to the point, fabulous fun. To make life even easier, the sledge run, which was also a green ski run in the day, even ran past the hotel where we were staying – which was virtually ski in ski out (a one minute walk from the ski room to the piste’s edge).

If you’re a foodie, you’ll be in your element here. There are some great options for lunch on the piste, including the fantastic Le Plan des Mains at Les Allues. We enjoyed fabulous homemade delights here including homemade breads and cakes, and mains included succulent steaks to power us on for an afternoon of ski-ing.

There’s a choice of a host of activities to indulge in such as igloo building. At the resort leisure centre, Parc Olympic, you can enjoy a range of activities from a relaxing massage to sooth those achy legs to swimming and skating on its Olympic-size ice rink. A completely new experience for us was ski-joring. It’s basically ski-ing while you are being pulled by a horse (or it could be by dogs) that you have to steer (or try to!). It was fast, exhilarating, and I’d definitely do it again as would my teenaged son and husband, who were fans of this newfound activity. While we enjoyed an introductory lesson in the safety of a penned in snowy paddock with Le Coeur Equestre Des 3 Vallees, once you’ve honed your skills you can even venture onto selected pistes, for extended fun.

Driving to Meribel

Getting to and from Meribel, was straight forward. We enjoyed a smooth sailing with DFDS from Dover to Calais with priority boarding and very comfortable priority lounge access, which included free drinks, snacks, and day beds to put your feet up on. And, while there are airports nearer to the resort of Meribel, travelling by ferry and car, even adding on the tolls you’ll need to pay en route, driving is still, more often than not, the cheaper option.

But facing a near nine-hour car journey is a daunting one, so I would recommend breaking the journey up with an overnight stay somewhere near the half way mark, which is exactly what we did. I can highly recommend a stay in the beautiful city of Dijon, and a meal at Maison Milliere restaurant based in one of Dijon’s oldest houses.

All in all, Meribel is now our favourite French ski resort!

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Dropping “my last ski trip was a short break in Arêches-Beaufort” into any ski based conversation is a bit of a polarising moment. The enlightened will beam from ear to ear, talk about the charm of the village, the enviable quality – and quantity – of the snow. And, inevitably, the wonderful cheese cooperative in the centre of the town. Others, however, will either assume they have misheard, or that you are making it all up and you’ve never skied in your life. Beaufort is a cheese. Or possibly a wind scale. But – a ski resort?

So why bother? If you want pumping techno, Jaeger bombs and general carnage each evening, just don’t. This quiet, year round village community is categorically not for you. If you appreciate a genuine welcome from the locals, good French food (followed by home-made Genepi, of course) and picturesque skiing, then book your trip without delay. The topography means Arêches has an excellent snow fall record. We were skiing in fresh powder in the last few days before the resort closed. On our last morning we saw less than 10 other skiers enjoying pristine conditions and it really felt like the mountain was ours.

Skiing – the next small thing…

Arêches is a relatively short transfer (usually under two hours) from Geneva. At the time of writing, the only UK tour operator featuring the resort, Ski Weekender, will pick you up from Arrivals and take you there, door to door. In line with their (unofficial) strapline “Just leave your brain in Geneva”, a full area lift pass will be waiting for you in the hotel, with dinner, bed and breakfast included and ski hire on site. It’s a well thought through package, designed to get you skiing as fast as possible, with the minimum of fuss.

Time on the slopes is all the more precious on a short break. To get the most from your limited stay in an unfamiliar area I would strongly suggest booking an instructor/guide through the local ESF (Ecole Ski Francais). They will show you the best runs on the mountain for your ability (and the conditions). And they will make sure you end up at the best restaurant or lift at the end of the session. It may also give you unofficial access to the warm ESF locker room at the top of the main lift. This means you don’t have to carry your skis, poles and boots up every morning (and back).

Ski, snowshoe and mindfulness in the mountains

Our ski guide, Michel, was Arechois through and through. A farmer during the summer, a ski guide in winter and one of the original founders of the cooperative that now produces the wonderful Beaufort cheese. He took my family and I, both on skis and snowshoes (Raquette), on a veritable tour of the mountain during our short stay. He stopped to point out notable viewpoints and where his cattle grazed in the summer. We experienced crisp, clean air, amazing views, interesting flora and fauna and, at times, almost total silence. If mindfulness and being close to nature is your route to relaxation then Arêches-Beaufort should undoubtedly be on your list.

Where to stay in Arêches-Beaufort

Ski Weekender offer a couple of accommodation options for their short breaks in Arêches Beaufort including the Hotel Christiania in the heart of the village. Our rooms were spacious, very comfortable and offered views on to the wooded lower slopes. Inclusive evening meals were taken in the hotel’s restaurant. It’s a traditional and very welcoming place, well populated with locals eating out (always a good sign). Breakfast was a hearty pre-ski array of meats, cheese, fruit salad, breads and pastries. Thereafter it’s a five minute walk to the lifts. Arêches is an Alpine village, not a purpose built ski resort. There are shops, restaurants, small bars and bakeries, with prices for the basics more realistic as a result. But you don’t have ski in/out convenience.

There’s a lot happening in Arêches-Beaufort at the moment. In addition to a planned new lift linking both sides of the ski area opening for the 19/20 season, there is a new self-catering accommodation complex and a spa. It will never claim to be the next big thing, but it definitely could be the next small thing. A really worthy destination for a relatively exclusive ski short break.

View from a non-skier

I love the mountains in winter, but I’m not a skier. Personally, I can’t think of anything worse. But in Arêches-Beaufort there is plenty of scope to enjoy the beauty of unspoiled mountains at a much more leisurely pace.

Or so I thought. Anyone who thinks snowshoeing is an easy option hasn’t tried it. It’s a real workout, quite literally breath-taking (maybe it was the altitude?) and gives a whole new perspective on the mountains. We used the surprisingly empty green runs, as well as cross country routes. The whole experience took a magical turn when Michel pointed out an eagle circling overhead. Even he doesn’t see them that often so we felt incredibly lucky.

Cheese and lots to do

The following day, while the others returned to the slopes, I enjoyed the small, but very lovely spa in the village. Feeling relaxed, refreshed and reunited with the clan, we went for an afternoon in the cheese factory. It’s fascinating, with a film show and displays explaining how farmers, like Michel, adapted to change by joining together to keep their traditional way of life alive.  Beaufort cheese is delicious, with a flavour that varies slightly according to the time of year and what the cows are eating. Despite its delicate flavour, the room in which the cheeses are matured is overpoweringly, eye wateringly, pungent.

Arêches Beaufort village is a year round French community, without the international, sometimes transient feel of a large resort. As such there really is so much more than skiing available on a ski holiday there, even for the skiers themselves.

By keen skier Paddy Daly and non-skiing wife Sarah Daly who blogs at mychtilife.wordpress.com

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The French Alps are breath-taking no matter what season you choose to pay a visit. But if you’re fan of skiing then this impressive chain of picturesque mountains, which boast some of the highest and most spectacular peaks in Europe, will float your adrenaline-seeking boat during the winter months. For skiers at all levels, Alpe D’Huez definitely fits the bill.

The island of the sun – in the mountains

While there’s a host of great ski resorts to choose from, if you’re travelling as a family the Family Plus resort of Alpe d’Huez is a perfect location – and even manages to tick the sunshine box too.

Poised on a mountain plateau that faces directly south, and enjoying an average of 300 days of sunshine, Alpe d’Huez has earned the apt nickname of “L’ile au Soleil”, or the island of the sun. Yet despite enjoying such prolonged warm weather, its ski area is open for an impressive four months, from mid-late December to mid-late April, as natural snow fall is propped up by 1,033 snow cannons to deliver maximum snow coverage over its 840 ski-able hectares.

High above the Oisans Valley, the ski area at your disposal in Alpe d’Huez is vast, stretching from 1,860 metres at village level to 3,330 metres at the summit of the magnificent Pic Blanc, where on a clear day you can look out over a fifth of France.

Just one of the breath-taking mountains that you can view from this spot include the Alps’ highest mountain Mont Blanc, or the white mountain.

A Tour de France landmark and the “mother of all black runs”

While it’s stunning, picture postcard views, sunshine and long ski season are enough to entice you to take a ski holiday here, the resort of Alpe d’Huez, in the Massif des Grandes Rousses, also has some interesting claims to fame which might tick a few more boxes for you. It’s the most iconic Alpine ascent of the Tour de France – while the tour route varies year to year, Alpe d’Huez was first included in the race in 1952 and has been a stage finish regularly since 1976, and it hosted the bobsled event as part of the Winter Olympics in 1968.

If you’re more of a daring skier then Alpe d’Huez is also home to what’s affectionately known as the “Mother of all black runs”, the Sarenne piste. At 16km it’s the longest black run in Europe stretching from Pic Blanc (3300m) to Alpe d’Huez (1860m).

Skiing for all levels at Alpe d’Huez

This resort is great for all levels of skier as it boasts a varied mix of pistes mostly above the tree line. They range from beautiful wide blues just above the village, to more challenging reds higher up and at the top daring and steep bumpy blacks – as well as Sarenne, Le Tunnel is also another scary one if you’ve got the head and stomach for it!

There are 43 green, 38 blue, 40 red and 17 black runs, two snow parks, recreational ski area, over 2120m of vertical drop with more than 250km of pistes, and the chance to enjoy night ski-ing and sledding.

When it comes to beginners the resort also has two dedicated areas exclusively for visitors to learn the art of skiing or snowboarding away from the main pistes, as well as a kids’ area with a covered magic carpet surface lift. A quirky fact that appeals to little ones is that a couple of the resort’s runs, as well as an avenue in the resort and children’s play park, are named after marmottes, or marmot, which are large squirrel-like creatures that make their home in this area. And, if you visit at the end of the season, you’ll probably be lucky enough to see them popping up to greet the world above as the snow starts to melt as we did.

Alpe d’Huez is great for kids

If your children’s legs are weary after a morning skiing, and they don’t fancy getting back on the pistes after lunch, a nice activity is to switch into your snow boots and take them on the DMC Gondola to the Grotte de Glace, up 2700 metres. Here you’ll discover fabulous sculptures carved into the walls of an ice cave spanning a 120-metre-long gallery.

Or, if your children can ski red runs, and they’ve still got energy to burn off, you can also ski to and from this cave, instead of going via the gondola.

Once seen as a competitor to the premier ski resort of Courchevel, Alpe d’Huez, which encompasses the slopes of the outlying villages of Auris, Villard Reculas, Oz en Oisans and Vaujany, is one of Europe’s premier skiing venues and the fifth largest in France. And a gondola links Alpe d’Huez to the neighbouring, and equally popular resort of Les Deux Alpes.

Justine Halifax is a multi award-winning writer and has worked as a journalist and feature writer for the Birmingham Mail, Birmingham Post and Sunday Mercury.

For more information on Alpe d’Huez in general visit www.alpedhuez.com

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The alpine village of Samoëns is just an easy 1-hour drive from Geneva international airport but if feels as if it is 100’s of miles away from the real world. When you’re there you’ll feel like you’re living in a beautiful Alpine bubble where the daily stresses of life are easily forgotten.

Spring in the French Alps

Many people assume that the Alps are just for winter activities but spring in Samoëns is just as great as winter in Samoëns.

As the days get longer and sunnier, the valley begins to come alive. The snow disappears, the grass turns green and the spring meadows bloom. The Giffre Valley boasts an extensive national park overflowing with activities as well as a heritage dating back to medieval times.

Memorable Mountain biking

After the winter season ends, often the ski lifts don’t open until late June. However, it is still possible to head out and tackle a wide variety of cross country tracks suitable for all levels from beginners to experts. There are guided mountain bike and electric bike trips and you can hire all the equipment required. When the ski lifts aren’t operating, there’s a lift service to the top of the mountain. One of the most exciting routes is from Samoens to Sixt Fer a Cheval, it’s suitable for all levels. Follow the River Giffre out of Samoens towards the end of the valley. When you reach the bridge at Le Perret, cross the river and head through a field when you will arrive at the spectacular Gorge des Tines. After this, descend into the authentic village of Sixt Fer a Cheval. Stop and enjoy a drink and take in the stunning views. After that you can either head back or carry on and head up to the magnificent Cirque Fer a Cheval where even more spectacular views await.

Rafting – thrills and spills

As the snow melts, the water level in the river rises creating excellent conditions for rafting. It’s a great way to spend a couple of hours and see the valley from an alternative view whilst enjoying a few thrills and maybe even some spills. There are several operators in Samoëns who provide all the equipment and drive you to Sixt where the paddling starts. Before heading off you are briefed on how to stay safe and then off you go, full steam ahead.

You will find yourself alternating between laughing, screaming and shouting as you ride the waves and the raft bounces about. You can swim and splash each other during various calmer stretches. It really is a fun few hours.

Paragliding – a bird’s eye view of the mountains

Samoëns is ideal for paragliding and by booking a tandem flight you can discover the pure joy of flying like a bird. The views will take your breath away. Depending on the conditions, take-off is a few simple steps or sometimes it might be necessary to run a couple of metres! If you fancy an extra thrill your pilot will happily perform a few aerobatic tricks before landing back in Samoens.

Walking on sunshine

The Giffre valley and surroundings are a walkers’ paradise catering for all abilities from gentle walkers to serious hikers. All the trails are well signposted and with 900km of marked trails up to an altitude of 3100 M you really are spoiled for choice. It’s always worth checking the forecast before setting off as the mountains can be very changeable, expect all weathers!

If you fancy a longer adventure there are some great mountain refuges that provide lunches and overnight accommodation. The Tourist Office in Samoëns can provide all the information you need such as routes, maps, opening times and booking details. It’s also possible to hire a local guide who will inform you about the local wildlife and fauna as well as show you the route.

Some of the best walks are following the river from Samoëns to Morillon. You can also drive up the Col de Joux Plane and following the track around the mountain to the peak of the Bourgeoise, the views are stunning on a bright day. The Cirque du Fer a Cheval offers a multitude of walks with breath-taking scenery. Expect huge cliffs, rugged mountains, jagged peaks and waterfalls everywhere you look.

It truly is an authentic alpine playground with so much to do…

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Have you dreamed of taking your dogs on a ski holiday to France? Well there are ski companies that will accommodate the whole family, even the furry members.

Our intrepid reporter Lucy Pitts checks out skiing with dogs, kids and a heroic partner in the French alps.

The family: Mum, dad and three kids (aged 11, 10 and 9 – total beginners).
The dogs: Two huge Leonbergers, the youngest of which weighs in at 75 kgs.

Dog friendly ski holiday in France

We headed to Saint Gervais in the Haute Savoie by car. Our apartment was on the third floor so that was the first challenge. Leonbergers in a lift! They may be mountain dogs, but they don’t do stairs and perhaps unsurprisingly, I’d never tried squeezing them into a very small space before. To their credit, they weren’t at all bothered but we did have to travel in two shifts as there wasn’t room for all of us in one lift.

Once settled in, I think the dogs rather enjoyed eating their dinner on the balcony with views across to the Alpes and Mont Blanc.

Taking it easy

Our plan was to ski in the mornings and walk in the afternoons. We booked 5 days of lessons for all of us but spent the first afternoon at the nearby Thermes Saint Gervais, it’s a well-known local spa.

The spa sits in a valley, at the end of a tree lined driveway. Spring cherry and apple blossom welcomed us against a background of the snow tipped mountains and the sound of a river.

A flying start

First day of ski school – an overwhelming success. The lower green runs were open, and we enjoyed meandering down with our respective classes. My children declared they were now semi-professional.

In the afternoon, we walked the dogs up the mountain in Le Bettex. We had two choices: take the cable car or drive. I’m ashamed to admit that our courage failed us and we drove. A combined total weight of 150 kgs of excited dog in a cable car, was at this stage, an adventure too far!

The drive from Saint Gervais to Le Bettex is not hard and it’s worth it. The mountain is dripping with pretty wooden chalets in all shapes and sizes and it’s a chance to see some of the local life. An elderly gent sat on his wooden balcony, admiring Mont Blanc. An old lady doing her spring cleaning with half her furniture out on the grass after the long winter.

We meandered through woods and across slopes with wonderful views. You get the occasional glimpse of magnificent chalets set in regal grounds. We rewarded ourselves with a G and T on our return. Gin and fresh mountain air in the sunshine with views across les Alpes. What a cure for the stresses of life

It all falls apart

Exceptionally mild weather meant all the lower slopes and most of the green runs were closed and ski school moved up the mountain. This revealed that my children were not the professional skiers that they’d come to believe they were. By lunch time, my husband swore his knees were finished and two of the children were declaring they would never ski again.

Our dog walk that day was around the town of Saint Gervais, our sense of adventure flagging. The old town is pretty and as you come into it from below it has some beautiful, mid-19th century buildings with intricate iron and glass arcades.

A turn for the better

We chucked the kids out at ski school and ran. We reconvened at midday and were greeted with smiles. The kids had mastered “the turn”, the snow plough and had a great morning.

We treated ourselves to an afternoon at the “Bains du Mont Blanc” back at the Thermal Park. They do a family session on a Wednesday and it’s well worth it. The thermal baths are warm, bubbly, outside and restorative. My snow burnt cheeks needed some love and this hit the spot. A beautiful setting, a great chance to unwind and recover.

A great day in the mountains

With all of us beginning to find our feet (or rather our skis) this was a great day. We spotted deer on the slopes from the cable car and saw the famous Marmot scurrying around beneath us. They look a bit like a beaver but are in fact a large type of squirrel.

The dog walk was wonderful. We headed out from the nearby village St Nicolas De Veroce up into the mountains and back. With a Baroque church thrown in, it has awesome mountain views and is a great way to see what remains of the original way of life in the Alps. We passed a couple of little homesteads making and selling their own local cheese, walked through a farm yard and the dogs drank from the old stone water troughs that dotted the route.

This was Heidi country indeed. Remote wooden chalets, green mountain slopes covered in buttercups and steep winding woodland paths. We met a weather-beaten farmer herding his sheep and an old lady tending her newly planted beds and we felt like we’d conquered the world as we looked down on the Chamonix Valley below. It was worth every bit of effort to get there.

We’ve nailed it

As we were only skiing in the mornings, we abandoned ski school on our last day in order to ski together as a family. It’s not something I ever imagined doing and the sight of your children whizzing past you at speed after just 6 days, is both wonderful and terrifying. What a success! No injuries and everyone saying they wanted to come back soon.

Read Lucy Pitt’s top tips for skiing with dogs.

The family stayed with Peak Retreats and Les Arolles (Lagrange) in Saint Gervais. You can book ski hire, ski passes and insurance with Peak Retreats or buy/hire them in resort on arrival.

Pre-book your visit to the thermal spa and choose any additional treatments at: thermes-saint-gervais.com

Lucy Pitts is a freelance writer and deputy editor of The Good Life France

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