For millions of Brits, Calais is their first introduction to France, maybe to Europe. Arriving at the port of Calais, those millions, by and large, point their cars south, unaware of the historic town they miss, oblivious to its treasures and charms. But family friendly Calais is well worth stopping for says Janine Marsh who lives nearby.

Calais is an ideal day trip or weekend destination, and absolutely worth a detour on your way to or from the UK. Perfect for a spot of shopping and stocking up on French wine and goods. And it’s ideal for kids – with a resident dragon, stunning beach, plus a chance to practice their French language skills. History and culture lovers will find lots to keep them happy and food lovers will be over the moon with the cosy bistros and seafood restaurants. Here’s why I think Calais should be on your bucket list.

Family Friendly Calais

Seaside fun: The seafront of Calais has, like the town, undergone a major redevelopment. A new promenade, new restaurants and bars, ice cream and snack kiosks, skate park, free fitness areas, exercise bikes, basketball courts and playgrounds. If you remember Calais as a rather old-fashioned resort, you’re in for a surprise. Calais beach has been completely revamped, and its silkily soft sandy beaches are pristine. And there’s plenty of free parking.

Meet a dragon: Calais is home to a dragon. Yes really. The seafront of the city is a unique playground for a winged, fire-breathing, winking, sneezing 82 feet long friendly dragon! It doesn’t matter how old you are, you can’t help but be amazed at the sight of him as he carries up to 50 passengers on his back and takes them on what has to be one of the most unusual city tours in the world.

Reach for the sky: The 271 steps of the Calais lighthouse are worth the effort for stupendous 360° panoramic views over Calais and the English Channel. This local landmark has been in service for almost 200 years in what’s known as the Fishermens area, called Kaleis in the 12^th century.

Take a cruise: On weekends take a cruise on the Calais Canal (details at the tourist office).

History & Culture

The destiny of Calais has been influenced by its proximity to England, just 38km across the Channel. When Edward III of England invaded France in 1337, the event started the Hundred Years War. And in 1347, Calais fell under English rule following an 8-month long siege at the end of which 6 burghers (leading citizens) offered their lives to save the rest of the townspeople. The English King spared them, and they are honoured in a magnificent larger-than-life sculpture by August Rodin outside the town’s historic town hall, where General Charles de Gaulle married Yvonne Vendroux, daughter of a local biscuit manufacturer. Calais didn’t become French again until 1558. For a bird’s eye view over the town, head to the top of the UNESCO-listed Belfry attached to the town hall, which is considered to be one of the most beautiful in France with its neo-Flemish façade and Art Deco-stained glass windows and decor.

A short walk away, the Fine Arts Museum. It has a fine collection including a permanent Rodin exhibition which has been recently renovated in collaboration with the Rodin Museum of Paris.

Only a few traces of Calais’ medieval past have survived including the 13^th century Tour du Guet, the Watch Tower in Place d’Armes which in the 19^th century was used as a telegraph station. It was from here that news of the death of Napoleon was transmitted to Paris. There is a ring of forts created to protect the city dating from the 14^th century to the 16^th century Citadel built on the site of a medieval castle. In the 17^th century King Louis XIV’s military engineer Vauban undertook a revamp of these fortifications. More recently the Atlantic Wall was constructed by German forces during WWII as a defence against an anticipated Allied invasion. In the Park St Pierre, in front of the town hall is a rather hidden, very interesting museum, Musée Mémoire, housed inside a bunker complete with 21 rooms of exhibits telling the history of Calais (73% of the old Calais district was destroyed) during WWII.

The Cité de la Dentelle et de la Mode, The City of Lace and Fashion Museum, has a huge and fascinating collection of textiles and costumes reflecting the city’s position as the centre of the French lace making industry from the early 1800s. There are regular temporary exhibitions and a superb shop.

Foodies

Feeling peckish? You’re in the right place! There’s a huge choice of restaurants in Calais, from refined dining to cosy cafes.

Just a few of my favourites include Aquar’aile which has magnificent panoramic sea views and a superb menu including succulent oysters and a scrumptious fruit de mer platter, leave room for a dessert or two – it’s hard to choose just one! Au Côte d’Argent has great views to the coast from where you can watch the Calais dragon pass by. With a light and airy dining room, and in the summer, a brilliant barbeque area and sunny terrace, the food is superb (and great value). Enjoy a gastronomic feast at Le Grand Bleu in the port of Calais. Classic meets innovative here, hot-dog au boudin de St Jacques with spicy shrimps is absolutely irresistible!

Feast on the atmosphere as well as the food at Les Grandes Tables du Channel at Calais’s National Theatre. With a restaurant serving modern classic dishes, (the 5-course menu de extraordinaire really lives up to its name) and a cosy bistro serving local favourites in theatrically decorated surroundings, this is one of the best kept secrets of Calais – foodies will adore it.

Street markets are held in place d’Armes on Wednesdays and Saturdays and at place Crevecoeur on Thursday and Saturday mornings.

The tourist office is right by the train station in the centre of town. Their website for lots of details for what to see and do: calais-cotedopale.co.uk

Janine Marsh is the author of  several internationally best-selling books about France. Her latest book How to be French – a celebration of the French lifestyle and art de vivre, is out now – a look at the French way of life. Find all books on her website janinemarsh.com

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The coast and countryside of the Pays d’Auge region spans the Norman departments of Calvados, Orne, and Eure. Sarah Daly explores three very distinctive towns.

Between the ports of Ouistreham and Le Havre, not far from historic Caen, the chic seaside towns of Deauville and Trouville are jewels of the ‘flowery coast’ of Lower Normandy. To the south, rolling wooded countryside is dotted with pretty villages of half-timbered buildings, apple orchards and fields of brown and white Normandy cows. This is the homeland of cider, Calvados, and delicious local cheeses, including one of France’s favourites, the creamy soft Pont L’Eveque.

Trouville

Trouville may not be quite as famous as its chic next-door neighbour Deauville, but it is one of the only places in France where you can step from the front gate of your stylish villa directly on to a sandy beach. The narrow streets are packed with interesting shops and enticing restaurants, and the harbour front is home to the imposing Marché aux Poissons where you can buy – and eat – seafood straight from the boat. Legend has it that Trouville was founded by the Vikings and is older than Deauville. This small fishing village became famous after local artist Charles Mozin exhibited paintings in Paris showing the picturesque charms of Deauville.

It became a popular haunt for Impressionist painters and grew into the elegant resort that we see today. Trouville managed to escape the two world wars relatively unscathed, although the half-timbered seafront villas were incorporated into the Nazi’s formidable Atlantic Wall fortifications, with some having concrete bunkers attached at the rear. The villas were painted in drab colours to camouflage them when they became the lodgings for senior officers. Now restored to their former glory, they provide a welcome insight into another age.

Where to eat: Between 9am and 7pm from Monday to Sunday almost every day of the year, the Halle aux Poissons fish market in Trouville serves fresh seafood and shellfish on site. Whether you fancy oysters for breakfast, lobster for lunch or a huge spider crab as an afternoon snack, they’ve got you covered. Just bring your own bread!

Locals love: In Trouville’s former aquarium, once part of the imposing Hotel de Paris, restaurant l’Aquarius, overlooks the beach. As you would expect, there’s a real emphasis on seafood here, all deliciously fresh and beautifully presented.

Lisieux

Lisieux suffered devastating bombardment by the Allies in World War Two ahead of its liberation in 1944. As a result, this neat and compact town of around 55,000 inhabitants, has many mid-20^th-century buildings alongside medieval half-timbered treasures. The most impressive feature is surely the imposing, almost century-old basilica, set high on a ridge overlooking the town and medieval cathedral. Inside, the basilica walls are covered with mosaics illustrating the life of Saint Thérèse. Born in 1873 she died at just 24 in a Lisieux convent. Second only to Lourdes, Lisieux welcomes around 30,000 pilgrims each year to honour her life and works, but for non-believers the basilica is still worth a visit for its colourful interior and the sheer scale and beauty of its construction.

Based in a typical Norman half-timbered building, the town museum tells the story of Lisieux, from the Hundred Years’ War, when it was captured by the English, up until World War Two. Collections feature distinctive, glazed ceramics from the nearby Pré d’Auge workshop.

And don’t miss the chance to try the area’s famous apple brandy at nearby Château du Breuil, home to renowned Calvados distillery La Spiriterie Française.

Where to eat: Situated in the heart of Lisieux, Les Soeurs Pinard is a lively bar/restaurant with fresh and imaginative dishes.

Locals love: In the village of Manerbe, Le Pot d’Etain has a seafood and traditional French cuisine menu using local and seasonal products.

Pont L’Eveque

This historic town lies almost exactly halfway between Lisieux and the seaside towns of Deauville and Trouville. The medieval centre is full of typical Normandy half-timbered architecture and buildings which feature the region’s distinctive chequerboard Pré d’Auge glazed green bricks. The area is famous for Pont l’Eveque cheese. Production dates back to the early Middle Ages, the cheese originally made by monks and named after the village where they sold it at market. Perfect with a glass of refreshing local cider! At the local market you’ll find many small, traditional producers of Pont l’Eveque selling almost exclusively to their local customers. Head to the town hall to visit the town’s former prison where prisoners convicted of petty thefts were allowed their freedom during the day, returning for curfew every evening.

In the 1980s, earth was excavated to construct an extension of the A13 motorway past the town. The area naturally refilled and a lake with a beach now covers nearly 300 acres, a great base for water sports.

Where to eat: Eden Park hotel restaurant on the edge of the lake at Pont L’Eveque has gorgeous views over the water.

Don’t miss

Follow the Normandy cheese trail and discover sleepy villages, dairy farms and rolling fields – plus taste some of the creamiest, most delectable cheeses in the world: normandycheesetrail

Where to stay

• Domaine Le Coq Enchanté is a little oasis of tranquillity nestled on the edge of the picture postcard village of Cambremer.
• Pont L’Eveque: not far from the coast, Il Etait une Fois is a stylishly renovated B&B in a very traditional Norman townhouse which also has a cosy shepherd’s hut in the garden.

Useful websites

Terre d’Auge Tourisme; Trouville Tourist Office;  Calvados Attractivité

Sarah Daly is a freelance writer who lives in the far north of France.

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Visit one of the most beautiful gardens of France – Latour-Marliac is a horticultural gem in South-West France that inspired Claude Monet’s famous waterlily lake.

Le Temple-sur-Lot in the Lot-et-Garonne department (between Bordeaux and Toulouse) is named after a still-impressive medieval Commandery of the Knights Templar. Since the mid 19^th century, however, the village has been the temple of something else entirely – waterlilies and lotuses.

A temple of watery delight

Joseph Bory Latour-Marliac (1830-1911) studied law in Paris but never liked it much, and returning to his native Granges-sur-Lot to learn his horticulturalist father’s art. In 1850 he struck out on his own with the purchase of 10 acres in Le Temple-sur-Lot. It came with a stream, two wells and 14 springs. Bamboo had become fashionable in mid 19^th century gardening and Joseph’s dream was to create Europe’s greatest bamboo collection.

From bamboo to waterlilies

Even though it went well – Joseph is credited with introducing two new varieties – there was too much competition in the bamboo business, so he began to experiment with waterlilies at a time when they were all but impossible to purchase. At that time the only variety that survived outdoors in Europe was the white Nymphaea Alba.

Joseph was to change all that. Through some kind of mysterious green thumbed alchemy, he hybridized N. Alba with yellow N. Mexicana to create the very first hardy waterlily that wasn’t white.

In 1875, he re-founded the nursery, specifically dedicated to aquatic plants – waterlilies and lotuses. Working his magic on tropical and semi-tropical specimens from North America, Joseph would go on to create hardy waterlilies in every shade from pale yellow and pink, to ruby red and copper.

In 1889, he sent 17 of his most beautiful specimens to Paris to compete in the Exposition Universelle. One case was lost on the train and had to be replaced. When it was discovered over a month later and sent back to the nursery, Joseph expected to find all the plants had died – instead they were still thriving. Waterlilies may look delicate, but they are as tough as weeds.

The World’s Fair that changed Paris and art history

It has been noted that only two major things have survived from the 1889 Paris Exposition Universelle: the Eiffel Tower and Latour-Marliac’s waterlilies. Displayed in water gardens outside the Trocadèro, they took first prize in the flower competition.

It was pure serendipity that Claude Monet was exhibiting in the Pavillon des Artistes next door to the Trocadèro. He was totally beguiled by the waterlilies. A year later he bought the house he’d been renting for seven years in Normandy (after spotting it from a train that ran along the bottom of the garden). In 1893 he bought land on the other side of the tracks to create a water garden. “I love water, but I also love flowers. That’s why, once the pond was filled, I thought about adorning it with plants. I got a catalogue and simply chose at random.”

Monet ordered as many lotuses as waterlilies, but sadly they failed to thrive. Otherwise his sublime Nymphéas – jewel of the Orangerie in Paris – might look very different, along with more than 250 other waterlily paintings that now feature in museums around the world.

The small museum at Latour-Marliac displays some of Monet’s handwritten orders. Other clients included the king of Bulgaria, the Vatican and writer Leo Tolstoy, who ordered waterlilies for the ponds at his home, Yasnaya Polyana in Russia. Much of the nursery’s business came from Britain, led by the influential garden designer Gertrude Jekyll (whose name was borrowed by her friend Robert Louis Stevenson in his story about Mr Hyde).

Latour-Marliac today

After Joseph’s death, family members ran the nursery until 1991, when Ray and Barbara Davies of Stapeley Water Gardens in England took over and restored the gardens. Both have lilies named after them. Their efforts were rewarded in 2004 when Latour-Marliac was designated a Jardin Remarquable. Since 2007, the owner has been American Robert Sheldon.

The gardens are open from 15 April through 15 October, but are at their most fragrant, full blooming finest, in summer. Highlights include Joseph’s elliptical pools, today containing the French National Waterlily Collection, lined hypnotically with antique terracotta pots where cuttings were once grown before they were sold.

Other waterlilies and lotuses grow in the rectangular pools (from the air it looks like a set of watercolours) where frogs hop and plop, amid the dragonflies and butterflies. Twenty kinds of bamboo grow by the pretty pond, with its waterfall and a Japanese bridge – a nod to Monet’s Giverny.

The garden’s excellent Café Marliacea serves lunch, and dinner on Sunday evenings in summer, when the nocturnal tropical waterlilies in the greenhouse show their stuff, including the Amazonian Victoria, with its 1.5m diameter pie-pan leaves.

If you’re feeling Monet-ish, Latour-Marliac’s excellent website tells how to create your own water feature. Study it before you arrive, because it’s all too easy to be overwhelmed by the magnificent lilies!

Website: latour-marliac.com

Take a half day tour: with French Country Adventures frenchcountryadventures.com

For more Bamboo and Waterlilies…

From Le-Temple-sur-Lot it’s just over an hour’s drive to two other Jardins Remarquables in the Dordogne: the exotic bamboo Jardin de Planbuisson (planbuilsson.com) in Buisson de Cadouin  and the Jardins d’Eau (jardinsdeau.com) in Carsac-Aillac home to Europe’s only waterlily labyrinth.

Dana Facaros has lived in France for over 30 years. She is the creator of French Food Decoder app: everything you want to know about French food, and co-author of the Bradt guide to Gascony & the Pyrenees and many guide books to France.

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Discover more fabulous destinations in France with our free magazine The Good Life France

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World famous landmarks, dazzling architecture, lamplit bridges that span the river Seine and charming bistros that line the streets and squares. With its scenic splendour, café culture and hundreds of museums and art venues, there is always a captivating buzz about Paris. So, what to see if it’s your first time? Jeremy Flint shares Paris must-sees for first time visitors.

Best places for aerial views of Paris

It is impossible to imagine Paris without the Eiffel Tower, so any visit to this fascinating city must start here. The iconic and elegant technological masterpiece overlooks the Champ de Mars parc and Trocadero gardens (great for a picnic). At 320-metres tall, the wrought-iron structure is named after Gustave Eiffel, whose company built and designed it in the late 1800s. The views from every level are stupendous. If you’re feeling fit, head to the second level via a 704-step staircase. Or take the elevator to each level. The third floor has restaurants and bars.

Insider Tip: Head to the Champagne bar at the top for a special treat (and to avoid queues).

At one end of the Avenue des Champs-Élysées, the 50-metre-high Arc de triomphe is the focal point of the city’s most iconic avenue. Built in 1836 to commemorate Napoleon’s victorious army and France’s military prowess, the elaborately sculpted Arc is free to visit at ground level. Paying visitors can climb the 284 steps (or take an elevator part way and climb the rest) to the observation deck at the top for breath-taking views of the Eiffel Tower and Basilica of Sacré Coeur.

Must-sees for first timers in Paris

Stroll along the UNESCO-listed riverbanks of the Seine and admire the sights including the bouquinistes, the green book-sellers boxes (the book trade has been plied here since the 16^th century), and Pont Alexandra III bridge with its ornate decorations, Art Nouveau lamps and huge gilded statues, from here you’ll have a fabulous view of the Eiffel Tower.

Place de la Concorde is where many were despatched by guillotine during the French Revolution, including King Louis XIV and Queen Marie-Antoinette. The square is home to two famous and picture-worthy fountains, and the 3,300-year-old Egyptian obelisk of Luxor and the Hôtel de la Marine. Like a miniature chateau, it was built to house the royal families overflow furniture and is now a marvellous museum.

The Musée d’Orsay, a former train station, houses a huge collection of magnificent masterpieces of French art and the view from the giant clock window is fabulous. Across the river, the formal 28-hectare Jardin des Tuileries filled with fountains, ponds and sculptures is a great place to sit and relax before tackling the Louvre, the world’s biggest museum which makes navigating it a fine art in itself. (The Good Life France podcast: the history of the Louvre and how to visit).

Give your feet a rest and take a boat cruise to see the sites from a Bateaux Mouches.

The Sacré-Coeur Basilica in Montmartre is a must-see. The Basilica is the second highest point in the city (after the Eiffel Tower) with impressive panoramic views over Paris, whilst its ceiling is decorated with the biggest mosaic in France. The nearby Place du Tertre is a perfect place to soak up the atmosphere of Paris.

If you dislike stairs be wary of the Abbesses metro stop which is recommended for visiting Montmartre and Sacré Coeur, but at 36 metres underground, it’s the deepest in Paris. If you’re elderly, lazy or exhausted, opt for Anvers (Metro line 2), which is kinder on the legs and a great approach to Sacré Coeur.

Many flock to see the great Cathedral of Notre-Dame on the Île de la Cité (due to reopen 8 December 2024). Don’t miss a visit to the ancient remains below the Cathedral, and a stone’s throw away is the 19^th century flower market, a hidden gem. And why not take a break at the nearby restaurant Vieux Paris d’Arcole. Aside from the astonishingly pretty façade and an incredibly ornate interior, the staff are super friendly.

Head to the Grande Mosquée, the oldest mosque in mainland France, to see its impressive 33-metre-high minaret and beautiful gardens.

Finally, detour to the Marché aux Puces de Saint Ouen – a vast labyrinth of flea market shops, or Marché des Enfants Rouges in the Marais district, it’s the oldest food market in Paris and opened in 1615. There’s a fun restaurant just around the corner called PNY which serves some of the best burgers in Paris.

Jeremy Flint is an award-winning professional photographer and writer specialising in travel, landscape and location photography.

Take a Perfect Paris Tour with Janine Marsh, author and editor of The Good Life France 

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Toulouse, the ‘pink city.’ offers everything from space-age thrills and incredible aviation museums to cockle warming grub.

Stepping inside the narrow aircraft cabin, I immediately find myself slipping back 35 years as I travel from the UK to Toulouse to start a circular tour of the Lot Valley. The first time I flew into this beguiling city, I was on board Concorde, one of many iconic planes engineered here in the heartland of France’s aviation industry.

So as I look down the aisle of a Concorde prototype at the city’s Aeroscopia museum, a wealth of happy memories come flooding back. In 1989, I took an unforgettable day trip to mark the 20^th anniversary of the world’s favourite airliner. A flight to Toulouse on an Air France Concorde, a gastronomic lunch at a chateau, and home on board a British Airways Concorde. A trip I have treasured ever since.

Trailblazing & tasty Toulouse

I have been back to the ‘Pink City’ – capital of the Occitanie region – to discover its heritage buildings, museums and irresistible lifestyle, but have never explored its aviation pedigree. So this time I’m taking a weekend to discover the city’s family-friendly flying attractions and indulge myself in its lively foodie scene.

From my base at the comfortable Citiz Hotel (citizhotel.com), the city is easily accessible by public transport or on foot. Ten minutes’ walk to the main station in one direction, even less to the historic centre in the other, with the Massena Metro station and key bus and tram routes also on the doorstep.

Aeroscopia

My first stop is Aeroscopia at Blagnac, close to Toulouse’s international airport to the west of the city. Open 361 days of the year, this inspiring collection includes a wealth of iconic civil and military aircraft from the early days of powered flight to the present day. Just think Concorde, Caravelle and Airbus; Falcon, Mirage and the Blériot XI. And it’s soon clear that you don’t need any particular interest in aviation to enjoy this diverse collection and the human stories behind it.

I find it strangely humbling to look at the replica of Louis Blériot’s tiny wooden plane ‘flying’ above the concourse of the vast hangar and then look across to the sleek profile of Concorde that took to the skies just 60 years later. Blériot made the first flight over the English Channel from Calais in 1909, his achievement capturing the imagination of wealthy wannabe pilots whose early flying machines were manufactured around Paris. But as the Western Front of the Great War advanced relentlessly towards the capital, the Government moved the aviation industry as far away as possible, and Toulouse quickly evolved into a centre of aeronautical excellence and innovation.

After an afternoon immersed in iconic aviation, I come right back to the present with dinner at Les Halles de la Cartoucherie (halles-cartoucherie.fr), opened in September 2023 as part of the city’s emerging new eco-district. Easily reached by tram or bus from the city centre, the Cartoucherie neighbourhood is just 15 minutes from Place du Capitole and incorporates accommodation with entertainment venues, workspaces and leisure facilities on the site of a 19^th century arsenal.

Gun cartridges and most recently electronic accessories were produced in Les Halles which has been imaginatively repurposed to combine market stalls and international street food outlets with sports facilities, meeting rooms, and cultural events. Just hop on the T1 Tram or L2 bus for access from the city centre. On a Saturday evening, the spacious building is buzzing with families and friends enjoying an eclectic choice of cuisine at communal tables.

For accommodation on a budget, check out Eklo (eklohotels.com) just across the plaza, a new French concept of green, affordable hotels, combining a design hotel and youth hostel with strict sustainability credentials.

Next morning, I enjoy a different side of Toulouse’s diverse gastronomic scene on a guided tour of the city’s Victor Hugo Market with American resident Jessica Hammer, founder of Taste of Toulouse (tasteoftoulouse.com). I know a fair bit about French gastronomy but still learn new things as Jessica leads our convivial small group from one friendly stall holder to another, finishing with an indoor picnic of carefully selected cheese and charcuterie, accompanied of course by a glass or two of local wine. Huge fun.

Cité de l’Espace

Next I head to the east side of the city for Cité de l’Espace, a family-friendly attraction that combines space craft with interactive exhibitions and timed shows, a Planetarium and IMAX®3D theatre, all set in a landscaped park. To make the most of all that is on offer, arrive early and plan your day around the scheduled events.

Inside the exhibition hall, I particularly enjoy the section on how space affects our daily lives through satellites transmitting weather information and images for telecommunications, television and GPS. And amongst a wealth of hands-on experiences, I can’t resist trying to steer a virtual moon buggy to a lunar module, albeit rather shakily!

Back outside I wander amongst rockets and moon buggies, and get a taste of an astronaut’s environment inside a space station module. It’s cosy but not all bad, given the selection of vacuum-packed food on display, including a portion of my favourite Confit de Canard, cooked up by the Souillac Hotel School in Lot!

If you have time to spare, head to nearby Montaudran where L’Envol des Pionniers –Flight of the Pioneers – celebrates the early years of the French air postal service in the former workshops beside the historic runway. Discover the pioneers of Aéropostale and legendary pilots such as Saint-Exupéry, Mermoz and Guillaumet who flew over deserts, mountains and oceans to deliver mail. And you may spot the resident Minotaur who lives next door!

With a second evening to indulge myself in Toulouse’s varied restaurant scene, I walk through the vast Capitole Square and soak up the atmosphere of this popular meeting place over an al fresco apéro the arcades. Then it’s time to head to Molette (molette-restaurant.fr), a block back from the banks of the Garonne, for my dinner reservation.

The name Molette comes from the colloquial word for a good friend and this cosy little restaurant serves hearty homemade dishes from seasonal local produce designed to satisfy the appetite of a bear, hence their ursine logo. I’m one of the first to arrive as doors open but within minutes, every table is taken. And it’s not long before I find out why. Their signature dish of Mountain Pork with Thyme melts in the mouth, so I obediently make like a bear and devour every last bit, followed by a decadent giant profiterole with caramel sauce. Then I head out into the warm evening to stroll amongst the locals on the quayside as darkness falls over this beguiling city.

Next morning, with a few hours to fill before I fly home, there is just time to take in one of the city’s most historic buildings before it closes for major refurbishment. Due to reopen in Autumn 2025, Le Musée des Augustins is home to one of the city’s leading art collections, atmospherically displayed in a 14^th century monastery. Don’t miss it if you’re travelling to Toulouse next year.

Later, at the airport, I buy a lunchtime sandwich to eat mid-air. I can’t help wishing I was having Confit de Canard instead, but preferably not in a space capsule. Give me that Concorde silver service any day!

By Gillian Thornton, one of the UK’s leading travel writers and a regular writer for The Good Life France Magazine and website.

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In a former royal chateau in Villers-Cotterêts in the Aisne department, Picardy, a fascinating new cultural venue presents the history of the French language, Janine Marsh visits to find out more.

“I like books about adventure, something with a twist in the plot” said a man out loud in a room full of strangers. And out of nowhere came a voice recommending books that the voice was sure the man would like. But this was no mystical oracle – it was the magic library at the International City of French Language in Villers-Cotterêts, a rather sleepy little town, not far from Paris. Now before you think I’ve lost the plot (sorry for the pun!), the magic library is the name of a computer programme that resides inside a cube containing thousands of books at the Cité internationale de la langue française, a unique venue in a former royal castle that’s dedicated to language – not just French but languages of the world.

You may be wondering what exactly inspired such a place to be here. Well, it’s a tale of old and new.

A man of his word

“It’s not a museum” says Paul Rondin, Director of the venue “It’s a cultural space, an international city about French language, French culture and the evolution of languages around the world.” Which sounds like it might be rather dry – however, it’s anything but.

The reason that the Cité is here, goes back hundreds of years. It’s all due to King Francois 1, who began building the castle in 1532 as it was close to the Forest of Retz, one of his favourite hunting grounds and then one of the biggest forests in France. And, it was here that the King signed an ordnance on August 25, 1539 which imposed the French language in official, administrative and legal acts such as birth, marriage and death certificates, replacing Latin. The ordnance is the oldest legislative text in force in France today. It was an act of centralisation of administrative power and strengthened the sovereignty and identity of France, a common language to be used – and understood – by all the Kings people.

Over time, the castle was handed down through the royal family. The fun-loving Phillippe d’Orleans, brother of Louis XIV was a one-time resident, and it’s here that French playwright Mollière first presented his controversial play Tartuffe. Louis XIV visited several times, and his Versailles garden designer André Le Notre also transformed the gardens of Villers-Cotterêts.

But over the centuries the chateau was abandoned. It became a national property during the French Revolution, was a home for beggars, a prison, a military hospital and then a retirement home until 2014. But in 2019, the Centre des Monuments Nationaux (CMN), the French National monuments Centre, began a grand restoration.

The Cité internationale de la langue française opened to the public at the end of 2023 – and it makes for a fascinating visit.

A castle where words hang in the air

You enter via the former jeu de paume, tennis court, a large courtyard where words hang in the air – quite literally. 100 words are strung across the courtyard, chosen by local children and visitors, from ‘Anagrame’ to ‘Ziboulater’ – which means to pull a cork, “no-one really knows the exact origin of the word, a mix of Belgian and Senagalese perhaps” says the guide.

Inside the Cité, not only can you see the famous ordinance, signed in 1539 by François I, but the innovative and interactive displays, giant word search grids that several people can compete on, word games galore and reams of fascinating facts, all add up to an absorbing visit (allow 1.5 – 2 hours). There are also shows, from Chansons – vintage French songs where the lyrics are as important as the tunes – to rap. It’s a discovery not just of the French language but language in general, the history and development of language, the origins and evolution of words, and how they spread around the world. It was fascinating to see how many English words are commonly used in France, but then the English language itself is heavily influenced by French thanks to William the Conqueror.

I was fascinated by a cabinet of ‘bon point’ (good point) cards which are given to kids when they do well at school. When they collect enough, they can swap the cards for a gift. Talk about foster a competitive spirit! It’s quite brilliant.

Temporary exhibitions take place throughout the year. In the royal chapel, much of the original décor has been retained, Renaissance style and full of symbols including the Salamander, personal symbol of Francis I. The King’s staircase features a beautifully sculpted ceiling. The gardens feature a giant word sculpture. There’s also a book shop and a very nice café which has a great seasonal menu.

It’s a really fun, entertaining, enlightening and educational exhibition.

Villers-Cotterêts

The town of Villers-Cotterêts is also worth a visit and holds a prominent place in the literary history of France. It’s here that novelist Alexandre Dumas was born and as you wander the town you’ll spot many reminders of his time, the school he went to, his home as a boy, (now a decorating shop), and a dedicated museum.

Nearby are several major literary hot spots: La Ferté-Milon, the birthplace of playwright Jean Racine (1636-1699), Château-Thierry (the only place outside of Champagne where champagne is produced), is where France’s most famous author of fables, Jean de La Fontaine (1621-1695) was born; sculptress Camille Claudel was born and lived much of her life in the area (1864-1943); and Ermenonville is where Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1712-1778) spent his last days.

Find out more: Cité internationale de la langue française

Janine Marsh is the author of  several internationally best-selling books about France. Her latest book How to be French – a celebration of the French lifestyle and art de vivre, is out now – a look at the French way of life. Find all books on her website janinemarsh.com

Want more France?

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Make the most of a short stay in Reims, the effervescent city where the Kings of France were once crowned but where Champagne now rules!

Medieval Reims, the capital of Champagne, is the home to many of the big-name producers of the world’s favourite sparkling alcohol – champagne. So if you only have 24 hours in this sparkling city, the one thing you must do is visit a cellar for a tasting.

Short stay in Reims – Champagne visits

There’s tons of choice with around 155 miles of cellars in Reims, and everyone has their favourite maison de Champagne. I love the cathedral-like Ruinart cellars on the outskirts of the city, the oldest Champagne house still working. Then there’s Vranken-Pommery with its 11 miles of cellars including galleries carved out of the chalk by the Romans. Taitinger, Lanson, Veuve Clicquot-Ponsardin and GH Martel, and several more.

Some Champagne house visits are by appointment only, most are closed on Sundays but if that’s the day you’re there, GH Mumm (www.mumm.com), a 15-minute walk from the city centre, offer cellar tours, a fascinating museum, and tastings from 10am to 5.30pm. They keep a staggering 35 million bottles of Cordon Rouge and other labels underneath their headquarters in the Rue du Champ-de-Mars.

Champagne is almost a religion here. I reckon you could stop just about anyone in the street, a man walking a dog, a couple out for a stroll, a woman on her way to the market with a trolley, and they would all have an opinion about Champagne – the best producer, whether it should be Brut or not, Blanc de Noirs or Blanc de Blancs. But, I recommend you head to the tourist office for heaps of information on Champagne visits and everything else in Reims. You’ll find details of cellar visit times and a variety of tours (including tours in English), on the Tourist Office website at the end of the article.

Where to pair food with bubbles!

All those bubbles are bound to make you feel a bit peckish and since Reims is a gastronomic city, you won’t find it hard to find somewhere scrumptious. The perfect lunch for me is at Le Bistrot des Anges (www.bistrotdesanges.com) where the locals go, not posh fare but delicious hearty food like ‘bangers and mash’, ‘fish and chips’- and they don’t sound very French, but I promise you, they go perfectly with a glass of chilled Champagne!

And restaurant la Grande Georgette (www.lacasernechanzy.com), opposite Reims Cathedral offers truly excellent food with a classic menu that’s also innovative – the King crab with asparagus cream and yuzu foam is mouth-wateringly delicious. Whatever you do don’t miss the Ratafia de Champagne, a rich liqueur dripped into your glass via a giant pipette from a huge bottle, it’s pure theatre, and utterly delectable.

What to see in Reims

There’s plenty to do in the town which is small enough to wander, though there’s an excellent tram service if you want to save time, and plenty of bike lanes for those who fancy cycling the city streets and even out into the surrounding countryside. Reims features a mix of architectural styles from Renaissance to art deco, and contemporary.

There are great shopping facilities, including a super Saturday morning market in Rue de Mars, the perfect place to pick up some pink biscuits, les biscuits roses, a Reims speciality and traditionally dipped in Champagne. They were invented in 1690, and served at King Louis XVI at his coronation in the city in 1775 – he loved them and had them supplied to the Palace of Versailles!

Several museums will please culture vultures including the fabulous Tau Palace, the former home of the Bishops of Reims. This is also where the Kings stayed while awaiting their coronation in the Cathedral next door, including 12-year-old Louis XV, the first king to drink Champagne. Tau Palace now hosts an exceptional collection of religious artefacts including the Coronation chalice.

You’ll also spot Roman remains as you wander – Reims was an important city in Roman Gaul, called Durocortorum, and the monumental 30m high Mars Gate, originally one of four triumphal arches, is one of the largest known porticos of the Roman world.

Reims Cathedral

The absolute must-see in Reims is one of the world’s most famous churches – the great Gothic Cathedral of Notre-Dame. Listening to the sonorous bells of this working church is mesmerising, and the incredible facade is mind-bogglingly beautiful as you enter under the gaze of a stone angel seemingly beaming with pleasure at church goers.

Inside, as the light shines through the dazzling rose window, kids run up and down the nave, mums and dads ‘shush’ them, tourists from around the globe ‘ooh’ and ‘ah’ at the beauty of this building and its stained-glass windows. The coronations of a mind-boggling 37 Kings of France took place here, beginning with Charlemagne’s son, Louis the Pious in 816, and ending with Charles X in 1825. Charles VII, with Joan of Arc at his side, was crowned here in 1429.

Built over the foundations of a 4^th century church, the Cathedral was begun in 1211 and took almost 100 years to complete. It was shelled by the Germans in the Franco-Prussian War in 1870, and again in World War I, when its dazzling stained-glass windows were destroyed, but rose again to its former glory. The restored cathedral was reopened in 1938 and miraculously avoided the destruction suffered by much of the rest of Reims in World War II.

A truly divine must-see in Reims, a city that sparkles from start to finish.

Get there: You can reach Reims in just 46 minutes by train from Gare de l’Est, Paris.

Stay: Hôtel La Caserne Chanzy (www.lacasernechanzy.com) A former fire station converted into a 5-star spa hotel offers lovely, luxurious rooms and great service (including valet-parking, a real bonus in a city where parking isn’t always easy). There’s also a fabulously glamorous and elegant Champagne bar. And for extra wow factor, ask for a room with a balcony overlooking the Cathedral opposite.

Useful websites: reims-tourisme.com/en; tourisme-en-champagne.co.uk

Janine Marsh is the author of  several internationally best-selling books about France. Her latest book How to be French – a celebration of the French lifestyle and art de vivre, is out now – a look at the French way of life. Find all books on her website janinemarsh.com

Want more France?

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Normandy is a region of contrasts, of seaside resorts and glorious countryside, peppered with historic and enchanting towns and villages. This is a land of immense sandy beaches, some of which are memorials to key events of the Second World War. You’ll gasp at the ancient Bayeux Tapestry, and nothing prepares you for a memorable wow moment when you see the Mont-Saint-Michel, a breath-taking medieval town on an island topped by an ancient abbey. Honfleur with its pretty harbour, Claude Monet’s house and garden at Giverny, the city of Rouen with its Gothic cathedral – you’re seriously spoiled for things to do and see. As for food – Camembert, cider, apple tart and Calvados – need we say more?! The essential guide to Normandy – all you need to know…

The essential guide to Normandy

Easily accessible by ferry, the tunnel, train and plane, Normandy is a popular destination for tourists. It’s ideal for families with super beaches and plenty to keep kids of every age busy. It’s great for those who love history, art, nature, gardens, sports and good food. The region really does have something to suit everyone’s taste. From William the Conqueror to the World War II D-Day Landing beaches and the UNESCO heritage city centre of Le Havre, Normandy offers plenty of fascinating history and culture.

Normandy is a food lover’s paradise. There are plenty of local specialities to sink your teeth into, from a crisp apple tart to Mortagne black pudding. For a taste of the sea, head to coastal towns such as Trouville and Honfleur for eye-catching seafood platters. As for the region’s world-famous cheeses – including Camembert and Livarot – they are best enjoyed during a picnic at the beach with a fresh crusty baguette and washed down with a local cider or Calvados!

Inland, Normandy’s verdant countryside extends towards the Pays de la Loire and offers a little bit of something for everyone, from cheese and cider to cycling and châteaux. The stretches from the UNESCO-listed Mont-Saint-Michel on the border with Brittany to the stunning chalk cliff formations of the Alabaster coast near Dieppe. Watching the boats going in and out of the harbour while you treat yourself to a steaming bowl of moules mariniere is one of life’s simple, but superb pleasures.

Top things to see in Normandy

Mont-Saint-Michel: One of the most popular attractions in the country, second only to the Eiffel Tower, both the abbey and the bay have held UNESCO World Heritage status since 1979. The iconic sanctuary has been attracting pilgrims for centuries, with vast numbers drawn to the scenic splendour, beautiful medieval buildings and the glory of Saint Michael. For centuries, devotees would risk crossing the bay with strong tides and precarious quick sands to reach this spiritual place. Even today, a stream of around 3 million visitors and pilgrims flock each year to the island its spectacular bay.

Claude Monet’s House and garden: Claude Monet was one of the world’s most influential painters. Known for championing impressionism, he is perhaps most well-known for his massive and mesmerizing paintings of waterlilies. Luckily for us, the very water lilies he painted can be seen in person at Monet’s garden at Giverny. Attached to his home, which is now a museum, the gardens themselves are calm and beautiful and the destination is sure to inspire.

Discover Normandy’s prettiest villages: Normandy has six recognised Plus Beaux Villages, officially the prettiest villages in France. Barfleur, Lyons-la-Foret, Beuvron-en-Auge, Saint-Céneri-le-Gérei, Veules-les-Roses and Le Bec-Hellouin.

Discover Rouen: The historic capital of Normandy sits on the Seine River as it wends its way to the sea from Paris. What makes this city unique is its incredible Gothic architecture coupled with more than 2000 half-timbered medieval street houses that blend effortlessly and its long, turbulent history whose traces can be seen in the present. The monumental, gothic Cathedral of Notre-Dame which the great French artist Claude Monet captured on canvas, mesmerised by its beauty, is quite possibly the most photogenic cathedral in Europe. Every four years there is a fabulous gathering of tall ships in the city for the Rouen Armada.

Bayeux Tapestry: Bayeux still retains much of its medieval charm, so you can spend the afternoon visiting Notre Dame Cathedral and the Bayeux Tapestry that graphically depicts the story of William the Conqueror’s invasion of England in 1066.

Fall in love with Honfleur: This little town with its working port has bucket loads of charisma. Wandering around the harbour and up and down the wiggly cobble stone streets of Honfleur is one of life’s great pleasures. It’s a buzzing, vibrant, colourful and truly enchanting little place that is quaintly charming and full of character despite the high number of tourists.

Top things to do in Normandy

Eat cheese: Follow the Normandy cheese trail and discover sleepy villages, dairy farms and rolling fields – plus taste some of the creamiest, most delectable cheeses in the world.

Visit Etretat: Etretat lies just off the longest French hiking path. It links Le Havre to Le Treport. Soak up the stunning views and if golf’s your bag, get in a round – the golf club of Etretat, founded in 1918, is perched at the top of the cliffs, overlooking the bay. The course is demanding, and the view is superb, especially from hole number 10!

Ogle the art and modern architecture of Le Havre: 80% of Le Havre was destroyed during the Second World War, the city was rebuilt by the architect Auguste Perret with buildings made from reinforced concrete – there’s nowhere else quite like it in France. Over the years more modern buildings have been added making UNESCO-listed Le Havre one of the most architecturally exciting French cities. MUMA in Le Havre was inaugurated in 1961, the André Malraux Museum of Modern Art exhibits one of the largest collections of Impressionist paintings, in France and includes masterpieces by Sisley, Pissaro, Degas and more.

Go to a cider or Calvados tasting: While most of France is known for their wine, Normandy is known for cider and Calvados. Calvados is a delicious brandy liquor made from apples which are grown in the region instead of grapes. Calvados distillation dates to the 1500’s. Take a tasting tour with a family distillery and enjoy not only the fruity flavour of Calvados but also its rich history.

Walk along the beach in Deauville: The beach is lined with 450 colourful umbrellas and hosts everything from horse races to film festivals. Take a stroll along the iconic wooden boardwalk (Les Planches) which dates to 1923. It stretches the entirety of the beach and features 450 Art Deco beach huts adorned with the names or the many actors and directors to have frequented the Deauville American Film Festival over the years.

Head to market: Normandy’s towns and villages host hundreds of markets. Two of the best are in Caen on Friday and Sunday mornings. And while you’re there, don’t miss a visit to the castle ruins, museums and memorials. Dieppe market (Saturday) is also fabulous and was voted favourite market of the French in 2020.

Visit the landing beaches: On June 6, 1944, the beaches of Normandy were the historical theatre of the great military operation, which mobilized an armada of boats and planes, to free France from German occupation. Museums and cemeteries line this coast, from Sword Beach to Ouistreham, Juno Beach to Courseulles-sur-Mer, Gold Beach to Arromanches, Omaha Beach to Colleville-sur-Mer, Utah Beach to Sainte-Marie-du-Mont, and to the Pointe du Hoc in Cricqueville-en Bessin.

Potter around the Perche: an outstanding area of nature, perfect for chillout breaks.

How to get there

By plane: Normandy is close to three international airports – Paris Charles de Gaulle, Paris Orly and Nantes International Airport with daily, with daily flights from destinations all over the world. Normandy itself has four airports mainly for domestic flights. However, Caen-Carpiquet and Deauville Airports also run regular international flights.

By train: Fast TGV services run from Paris to main towns and cities including Rouen, Dieppe, Caen and Bayeux and local TER services cross Normandy.

By ferry: There are ferry ports in Le Havre, Dieppe, Caen-Ouistreham and Cherbourg.

Tourist office website: en.normandie-tourism.fr

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Any walker who follows one of the French pilgrim trails to Santiago de Compostela in Spain is guaranteed a heady mix of natural landscapes and beautiful buildings. But few can compete with the Pont Valentré that spans the river Lot at Cahors.

A major landmark on the Via Podensis from Le Puy-en-Velay in Auvergne, this medieval bridge with its three defensive towers is a wow from any angle, but especially when reflected in still blue water. Open to traffic until 1983, Pont Valentré is now purely pedestrian and wherever I stand, I simply can’t resist another photo says Gillian Thornton as she takes a train trip through the Lot.

Pickled in the past Cahors is full of charm

North-west of Toulouse in the Occitanie region of South-West France, Cahors is the principal town of the Lot department, surrounded on three sides by steep hills and nestled inside one of the many tight meanders carved out of the landscape over the centuries.

The native Gauls worshipped Divona, goddess of underground water, at a gushing spring here beside the Lot – a site now known as the Fontaine des Chartreux – but it was the Romans who founded the town of Divona within the meander where three roads met.

Arrive by road today and Cahors is an ideal base for exploring the beautiful Lot Valley. Or take the train from Toulouse in less than 90 minutes, just one of many route options on the Occitanie Rail Tour. Whatever your mode of transport, the family-run Hotel Terminus (terminus-1911.fr) is well situated opposite the station and just ten minutes’ walk from the historic old town. Expect Art Nouveau stained glass, traditional atmosphere, and seasonal dishes in the Bistro 1911.

What to see in Cahors

I start by picking up a free map at the Tourist Office in Place Mitterand, separated from the historic Old Town by Boulevard Léon Gambetta, a broad thoroughfare on the line of the medieval ramparts. Gambetta’s father ran a grocery shop beside the Cathedral and young Léon, born in 1838, went on to become a lawyer and republican politician who played a prominent role in the Third Republic from 1870.

Next door to the Tourist Office, the Cahors Malbec Lounge (vindecahors.fr) is the go-to spot for understanding the Lot Valley’s famous wines. Not just red, I discover, but white, rose and sparkling too, served here in traditional local glasses that incorporate a ring of glass in the stem. Choose from four tasting options from 6 to 16 euros per person.

Guilhem, my wine guide, explains that of the 70 domaines and 180 wine makers within Appelation Lot, 80% are independent, the others part of a co-operative. And whilst the grapes are mostly Malbec, blends can include up to 30% of other local varieties. The Malbec Lounge showcases up to six domaines each week to help visitors find their favourite and maybe book a vineyard visit.

Tasting over, I turn my back on the Old Town for a while and head west for the short walk across the isthmus to Pont Valentré, built – very slowly – in the 13^th Century close to the Fontaine des Chartreux. With its six arches and three imposing towers, this unique medieval bridge is listed by UNESCO as part of the Routes of Santiago de Compostela in France.

On a small grassy bank beside the first tower, I’m surprised to find rows of vines that turn out to be more than just an advertisement for the area’s liquid treasure. ‘The Garden of Inebriation’ is the start of the town’s Secret Gardens itinerary, a self-guided trail of 21 themed plots that are an intrinsic part of local life. Launched in 2002, they gained Remarkable Garden status in 2006 and are maintained on eco-friendly principles. Organic matter is recycled; beds regularly mulched; and plants chosen for their suitability to climate and soil. Pick up the free annotated trail guide.

After the fall of the Roman Empire, Divona retreated to land on the eastern side of the isthmus. Enclosed with a ditch and ramparts in the 7^th century, the town grew steadily in importance thanks to its road and river trade links, attracting merchants, bankers and medieval entrepreneurs. Stroll today through the heart of the historic town and you can still see their imposing houses with arcades for shops and workshops at street level and elegant windows above, the accolade of oldest property in town going to the half-timbered corner house at 12 Rue de la Daurade.

The nearby Cathedral of St Stephen boasts two of the largest cupolas in south-west France and an ornate carved tympanum as well as vestiges of medieval wall paintings. And I find several Secret Gardens nearby including a colourful Moorish Garden with its bright mosaics and running water; the raised beds of the Monks’ Kitchen Garden; and the Flower Garden providing altar flowers for the Cathedral. For an allergy-friendly restaurant with a different menu every day, try Restaurant Marie Colline nearby.

I have another treat in store before leaving Cahors. Crossing back across Boulevard Gambetta, I come to the Henri Martin Museum (museehenrimartin.fr), reopened in May 2022 in the former Bishop’s palace after major refurbishment. This unmissable museum is dedicated to the celebrated post-Impressionist painter, born in 1860 in Toulouse and a lifelong lover of the Lot countryside. In 1900, Henri Martin bought the Domaine de Marquayrol, 23 km from Cahors where he spent five months every summer painting local scenes.

The new-look museum brings together on three floors an eclectic range of exhibits acquired by the City of Cahors including archaeological finds, work by artists from the Quercy region, and a collection based around Léon Gambetta. But pride of place goes to Martin himself. Visitors to Toulouse may already know his huge wall paintings inside the Capitole building, but this enchanting museum boasts the largest public collection of his works, amongst them scenes of Cahors and the Lot Valley.

Inspired by Martin’s paintings, I need no further excuse to head east along the river for a welcome return to one of his favourite subjects. St Cirq Lapopie is classified amongst France’s Most Beautiful Villages, named after the child martyr Saint Cyr and one of the three feudal families who administered the village. No car? Catch the bus linking Cahors with Figeac and walk up to the village perched high above the Lot.

Saint-Cirq-Lapopie

St-Cirq-Lapopie buzzes by day with visitors come to browse the small galleries, eat at the restaurants, and just soak up the medieval atmosphere of houses from the 13^th to 15^th Centuries. But only a couple of dozen people live permanently in the steep cobbled streets that lead to the ruined hilltop chateau. Book a room and you can have the village to yourself.

I dine on delicious confit duck leg at the Gourmet Quercynois, rightly popular for its authentic regional cuisine, and stay in a huge room with valley views at Maison Lapopie (maison-lapopie.com), a delightful B&B that offers tranquillity in the extreme. The owners live off site, so your key awaits you in the door and breakfast arrives in a picnic basket to enjoy at your private window table.

Next morning, I take a quiet stroll through deserted streets before heading back down to river level for a tranquil towpath walk towards Bouziès, departure point for seasonal river cruises. Then I’m back on the road for the scenic drive to Figeac (read about Figeac in The Good Life France Magazine Issue 38 – it’s free!).

Find out more at Cahors Vallee du Lot Tourism

By Gillian Thornton, one of the UK’s leading travel writers and a regular writer for The Good Life France Magazine and website.

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Discover the stylish seaside resort La Baule – and La Brière, its wetland neighbour in Pays de la Loire.

Beach resorts can get pretty crowded on a summer Saturday, but head down to the waterfront at La Baule and there’s plenty of space for everyone. Tucked into a curve of the coastline just north of the Loire estuary, La Baule-Escoublac – to give the town its full name – boasts a glorious arc of golden sand stretching for nine seductive kilometres between the headlands of Le Pouliguen and Pornichet.

Turn your back on the sea however and just a few miles inland lies a very different watery landscape. The Parc Naturel Régional de la Brière is France’s second largest wetland area after the Camargue, bordered by the river Loire and the shipyards of Saint-Nazaire to the south, the Vilaine river and Brittany to the north. Stay in La Baule and you can enjoy a wide range of aquatic activities in, on and beside the water.

The history of La Baule

I arrive by car from the walled town and salt marshes of neighbouring Guérande. Barely 6 km apart, they make a dramatic contrast. One a medieval city with lofty ramparts and towers; the other, a modern resort of low-rise buildings and seaside villas. And what villas!

Today’s resort grew out of the humble village of Escoublac which holds the dubious distinction of having to move inland to escape the onslaught of sand blown in from the dunes. In 1779, this once coastal community shifted away from the shore, but gradually the dunes were stabilised with planting schemes and in the 1830s, tourists began to trickle in from Saint-Nazaire to nearby Pornichet and Le Croisic.

Fast forward to the 1880s, the arrival of the railway and a growing fashion for sea bathing. Two Parisian entrepreneurs involved with the railway – Jules-Joseph Hennecart and Edouard Darlu – quickly saw the potential of Escoublac as a new holiday resort. So they bought up 40 hectares of dunes at La Bôle, enlisted the help of local businessmen, and laid a broad avenue from the station to the sea. Renamed Avenue du Général de Gaulle in 1945, it is now one of the town’s main streets for shopping and restaurants.

More amenities followed and soon wealthy buyers were investing in plots to build their own holiday villas. In 1896, the resort was renamed La Baule and despite the dips in fortunes created by two World Wars, the town has grown steadily to be one of the most popular resorts on the Atlantic Coast.

La Baule’s sea front villas were sadly redeveloped during the post-war years in what can only be seen now as a tragedy of urban planning. Great if you want a holiday apartment with your feet in the ocean, but completely lacking in atmosphere. Go behind the bland sea front architecture however and you immediately step back a century.

What to see and do in La Baule

Today there are few nicer urban strolls than meandering along La Baule’s pine-scented Allées and Avenues to peer through garden gates and over ornamental walls at the eclectic mix of flamboyant properties, 15 of them given protected status for their exceptional architecture. Each villa is different in style, from half-timbered ‘Anglo-Normand’ mansions to Art Deco splendour and medieval fantasies. And each one has a name, often in Breton, La Baule originally being part of Brittany rather than Pays de la Loire.

I stop first outside Villa Symbol, built in 1881 in Anglo-Normand style and the private home of architect Georges Lafont. An eye-catching combination of stone and timber, curved roof lines and embellished spire, it was the first grand villa that visitors would see as they came out from the station, a great advertisement for the 250 properties that Lafont would go on to design in the town.

Close by, I come across Coq de Roche, a classic example of Art Deco style with its whitewashed facades and red shutters, flat roof and metal balconies. La Baule’s many thousands of trees are also protected, but only a handful of properties can boast their original gardens and, as at Villa Saint-Charles, an outdoor gallery where 19^th century visitors would sit to inhale the clean air, often to recover from TB.

I soak up the period atmosphere at Hôtel Saint-Christophe, a 4-star hotel composed of four individual villas dating from the early 1900s. Just a short walk from the beach and boutiques, it’s a great place to sample the good life with individually designed bedrooms and stylish public rooms. After an aperitif in the hotel’s shady garden, I stroll to Place du Maréchal Leclerc for dinner in the garden of Le M. This popular bistro takes its name from the shape of the two steep roofs of what were once adjoining shops. Across the square stands St Anne’s Chapel, the first public building erected in La Baule. Now an exhibition centre, it was commissioned by M Hennecart, a deeply religious man whose widow was so incensed at the opening of a casino that she left La Baule, never to return.

Le Croisic

I walk home along the sea front as the sun sinks over the calm ocean and watch families, friends and even horse riders make the most of a balmy evening on the beach. And after a blissfully quiet night, I head west out of La Baule next morning for the short drive along the south side of the Guérande salt pans. Time to spare? Hire an electric bike instead from Le Pouliguen Bikevasion to visit Le Croisic, Batz-sur-Mer and maybe the Grand Blockhaus Museum, a World War II bunker that tells the story of the Saint-Nazaire Pocket.

Now designated a Petite Cité de Caractère of the Loire-Atlantique department, Le Croisic stands on the headland where the ocean flows through a narrow gap into the salt marshes. Enjoy a drink beside the marina or at a café table in the pretty town centre; visit the Océarium sea life centre; and pay homage to the seafront statue of Pierre Bouguer, 18^th century scientist, mathematician and astronomer.

Brière Regional Natural Park

Swapping salt water for fresh, I turn the car inland to explore the Brière Regional Natural Park or PNR. Nicknamed the Pays Noir or Black Country because of its rich peat reserves, this freshwater marshland is bisected by 140 km of canals navigable by flat-bottomed boat. Peat is no longer harvested, but the marsh is used for livestock, hunting and fishing. Find out more about the flora, fauna and traditional way of life in the showpiece hamlet of Kerhinet near Saint-Lyphard, its single street fringed by thatched cottages housing craft businesses and displays.

Then take a short drive to the cluster of cottages that make up the tiny Port de Bréca, departure point for discovery trips by boat or on board a horse-drawn wagon. If you’re feeling energetic, hire a rowing boat, but I can recommend the guided tour from L’Arche Briéronne with a knowledgeable local guide who will punt you through the canals whilst explaining the fragile ecosystem of this magical wetland.

Beyond the marsh, the cranes of Saint-Nazaire’s busy shipyards are clearly visible on the horizon, but here at water level, life moves at a gentle pace, much as it has for centuries. La Baule … La Brière … two very different water worlds that combine to make a unique and addictive double-act.

Tourist information from www.labaule-guerande.com

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