The International City of French Language

In a former royal chateau in Villers-Cotterêts in the Aisne department, Picardy, a fascinating new cultural venue presents the history of the French language, Janine Marsh visits to find out more.

“I like books about adventure, something with a twist in the plot” said a man out loud in a room full of strangers. And out of nowhere came a voice recommending books that the voice was sure the man would like. But this was no mystical oracle – it was the magic library at the International City of French Language in Villers-Cotterêts, a rather sleepy little town, not far from Paris. Now before you think I’ve lost the plot (sorry for the pun!), the magic library is the name of a computer programme that resides inside a cube containing thousands of books at the Cité internationale de la langue française, a unique venue in a former royal castle that’s dedicated to language – not just French but languages of the world.

You may be wondering what exactly inspired such a place to be here. Well, it’s a tale of old and new.

A man of his word

“It’s not a museum” says Paul Rondin, Director of the venue “It’s a cultural space, an international city about French language, French culture and the evolution of languages around the world.” Which sounds like it might be rather dry – however, it’s anything but.

The reason that the Cité is here, goes back hundreds of years. It’s all due to King Francois 1, who began building the castle in 1532 as it was close to the Forest of Retz, one of his favourite hunting grounds and then one of the biggest forests in France. And, it was here that the King signed an ordnance on August 25, 1539 which imposed the French language in official, administrative and legal acts such as birth, marriage and death certificates, replacing Latin. The ordnance is the oldest legislative text in force in France today. It was an act of centralisation of administrative power and strengthened the sovereignty and identity of France, a common language to be used – and understood – by all the Kings people.

Over time, the castle was handed down through the royal family. The fun-loving Phillippe d’Orleans, brother of Louis XIV was a one-time resident, and it’s here that French playwright Mollière first presented his controversial play Tartuffe. Louis XIV visited several times, and his Versailles garden designer André Le Notre also transformed the gardens of Villers-Cotterêts.

But over the centuries the chateau was abandoned. It became a national property during the French Revolution, was a home for beggars, a prison, a military hospital and then a retirement home until 2014. But in 2019, the Centre des Monuments Nationaux (CMN), the French National monuments Centre, began a grand restoration.

The Cité internationale de la langue française opened to the public at the end of 2023 – and it makes for a fascinating visit.

A castle where words hang in the air

You enter via the former jeu de paume, tennis court, a large courtyard where words hang in the air – quite literally. 100 words are strung across the courtyard, chosen by local children and visitors, from ‘Anagrame’ to ‘Ziboulater’ – which means to pull a cork, “no-one really knows the exact origin of the word, a mix of Belgian and Senagalese perhaps” says the guide.

Inside the Cité, not only can you see the famous ordinance, signed in 1539 by François I, but the innovative and interactive displays, giant word search grids that several people can compete on, word games galore and reams of fascinating facts, all add up to an absorbing visit (allow 1.5 – 2 hours). There are also shows, from Chansons – vintage French songs where the lyrics are as important as the tunes – to rap. It’s a discovery not just of the French language but language in general, the history and development of language, the origins and evolution of words, and how they spread around the world. It was fascinating to see how many English words are commonly used in France, but then the English language itself is heavily influenced by French thanks to William the Conqueror.

I was fascinated by a cabinet of ‘bon point’ (good point) cards which are given to kids when they do well at school. When they collect enough, they can swap the cards for a gift. Talk about foster a competitive spirit! It’s quite brilliant.

Temporary exhibitions take place throughout the year. In the royal chapel, much of the original décor has been retained, Renaissance style and full of symbols including the Salamander, personal symbol of Francis I. The King’s staircase features a beautifully sculpted ceiling. The gardens feature a giant word sculpture. There’s also a book shop and a very nice café which has a great seasonal menu.

It’s a really fun, entertaining, enlightening and educational exhibition.

Villers-Cotterêts

The town of Villers-Cotterêts is also worth a visit and holds a prominent place in the literary history of France. It’s here that novelist Alexandre Dumas was born and as you wander the town you’ll spot many reminders of his time, the school he went to, his home as a boy, (now a decorating shop), and a dedicated museum.

Nearby are several major literary hot spots: La Ferté-Milon, the birthplace of playwright Jean Racine (1636-1699), Château-Thierry (the only place outside of Champagne where champagne is produced), is where France’s most famous author of fables, Jean de La Fontaine (1621-1695) was born; sculptress Camille Claudel was born and lived much of her life in the area (1864-1943); and Ermenonville is where Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1712-1778) spent his last days.

Find out more: Cité internationale de la langue française

Janine Marsh is the author of several internationally best-selling books about France. Her latest book How to be French – a celebration of the French lifestyle and art de vivre, is out now – a look at the French way of life. Find all books on her website janinemarsh.com