Beaujolais wine region – a land of vine-blessed beauty

North of Lyon and south of Burgundy lies Beaujolais, an area whose name everyone knows but very few have visited. A secret place of hills and vineyards, of ancient gold stone-coloured villages where the local bistro serving the sort of grub that warms the cockles of your heart is at the centre of daily life, and where Romanesque style churches and majestic castles dot the landscape. Famous the world over for its Beaujolais Nouveau wine, it’s a part of France that the French know about, and the rest of us don’t – but should, says Janine Marsh.

Beaujolais wines

Beaujolais, in the Rhone-Alpes region, is around 34 miles long and 9 miles wide at its widest point and almost half of it is covered in vines. Much of the rest is either pasture or forest, a land of hills packed tightly together giving it the nickname “little Switzerland” for its alpine feel. It is almost a secret place, unspoiled and uncrowded.

The young world-famous Beaujolais Nouveau is just one small part of the local wine story – vines were planted here long before the Romans arrived. And one of the most fascinating places to find out more, is the wine theme park Hameau Duboeuf at Romanèche-Thorins. Yes, you read that right. A theme park dedicated to wine. And if you think that doesn’t sound like fun – you could not be more wrong. It’s unique, fascinating and fun for all the family. It was created by Georges Duboeuf, the greatest wine merchant in Beaujolais, possibly in France and the man who put Beaujolais Nouveau on the world’s wine map. Released on the third Thursday of November each year, it might make a big splash, but it’s not what Beaujolais is all about. The non-nouveau wines are nothing like their younger family member, they range from soft and fresh to rich, robust and magnificent.

A wine theme park – yes, really!

Hameau Duboeuf is no ordinary theme park. A friend had told me that he stumbled across this place, “we arrived at 9am. I thought I’d be there an hour, I’m not really into wine museums – we were still there at 6pm. It’s that good.” Well, he’s not wrong and in fact it’s even better now following the opening in 2023 of a new exhibition in the old train station opposite. Having acquired a coach belonging to the Emperor Napoleon III (born 1808, died 1873) the theme park management reimagined the 1855 meeting of Queen Victoria of Great Britain and Napoleon III of France at the famed Entente Cordiale meeting. But in the Hameau Duboeuf scenario, it features an enchanting train journey where of course everyone drinks Beaujolais wine! In the ancient ticket office, a costumed station master leads you through a curtained entrance to see the train and experience … well to be honest it’s hard to find the words to describe it – a musical, visual extravaganza that recalls the famous meeting with a spectacular sound and light show that features fireworks and singing statues. It’s a bit like stepping into the wardrobe of Narnia and finding yourself in an enchanted world.

I promise you won’t have been to any wine museum quite like this. There is a vast collection of wine paraphernalia going back centuries. Mannequins are based on real people. There are films, music, interactive displays – I loved the simulated ride over the vineyards in the company of bumble bees, quite bonkers but it leaves you grinning. There’s a superb restaurant, gardens and mini-golf. And a fabulous wine tasting area that looks like a Belle Époque train station. I tried several wines as I listened to the knowledgeable sommeliers talk about the Gamay grape that’s prominent in Beaujolais, and how the wine is matured in barrels which are then sold on to Cognac and whisky makers.

Wine tasting galore

For a quite different wine tasting, head to nearby Maison Jean Loron where they’ve been making wine since 1771. Book a wine tasting tour in English at least 24h in advance, and you will dive deep into the process of wine making. 6 oenologists blend and analyse wines on site, and if you’re really into wine, you can do a private workshop with them. In the ancient cellar are 40 vintages, and you can taste wine direct from the barrel. Sophie the guide, is a fountain of knowledge and answered my many questions with patience: ‘why does this taste peppery?” – the barrels! ‘What should I drink with chocolate?’ Sweet red wine. All whilst indulging in a tasting of 5 wines with a perfect pairing of cheese and charcuterie.

By this stage I was a total Beaujolais fan, blown away by the soft reds, the delicious whites, the rare rosés. 94% of the wine produced in Beaujolais is red, 4% white wine 2% rose. The area is also famous for lemonade, chestnut liqueur, and orange liqueur. Travel the 140km Beaujolais wine route and you’ll enjoy some of the finest wines ever made including 10 crus (high quality), the most spectacular scenery, welcoming villages and sensational food.

Picturesque villages

Beaujolais sits on the Vallée de la Gastronomie, a 640km foodie route from the north to the south of France. Pretty much every village in Beaujolais boasts a bistro where you’ll be fed like a lord, and where it feels like everything is cooked in wine – from poultry to peas and pears! The locals call their delicious cuisine ‘beaujonomie.’

I loved Bistro Beaujolais in the charming village of Theizé, a warm welcome is assured, along with a fabulous glass of wine and gut-busting dishes that make your soul soar.

Peppered with beautifully preserved medieval chateaux and churches the Pays Beaujolais countryside is green and rolling, dotted with perched villages. To the south, the area is known as Pierres Dorées (golden stone), reflecting the use of local ferrous stone in 39 villages, it turns from pale gold at dawn to a rich apricot colour as the sun dips. Don’t miss a visit to Oignt, officially one of the prettiest villages in France with narrow cobbled streets dripping with flowers, dozens of artists workshops, cosy bars, beautiful houses, and a stonking view over the countryside. There’s also a fascinating music museum filled with music boxes and hurdy gurdies – a sort of 19th century juke box, including the coin-operated type that was in almost every French train station by the late 1800s!

Bustling Villefranche-sur-Saône, the administrative capital of Beaujolais, is home to one of France’s oldest markets held since the 12th century (Mondays). Take a guided tour, or an interactive audio guide and map from the tourist office which you’ll find nestled in an ancient courtyard, and mooch along rue Nationale finding secret buttons you can push to enter into private courtyards to see the ancient mansions.

Wherever you go, you’ll discover more gems, Beaujeu, the historic capital of Beaujolais, Vaux-en-Beaujolais, the inspiration for Gabriel Chevallier’s famous novel Clochemerle, and Chateau de la Chaize, built by the brother of Louis XIV’s Confessor, home to the largest vaulted wine caves in the region. In Beaujolais it always goes back to the wine, just as it has for hundreds of years.

Tourism: www.destination-beaujolais.com

Janine Marsh is the author of several internationally best-selling books about France. Her latest book How to be French – a celebration of the French lifestyle and art de vivre, is out now – a look at the French way of life. Find all books on her website janinemarsh.com