For an area that takes up a relatively modest stretch of Brittany’s south coast, the Baie de Quiberon boasts some pretty powerful statistics. As the seagull flies, it’s barely 30 km from the mouth of the Etel river in the west to Pointe Kerpenhir in the east, but the shoreline of this captivating area stretches for an impressive 360 km around inlets and islands, river banks and ocean shores. Gillian Thornton explores this stunning shoreline of Brittany…

On the waterfront

Numbering just 24 communes, the Baie de Quiberon boasts 50 sandy beaches, 25 km of dunes, and 15 km of wild sea coast, whilst inland, its lush, wooded interior is criss-crossed by cycle tracks, walking trails and bridleways. An outdoor playground, whatever your chosen activity.

But there’s another side to this idyllic corner of the Morbihan. Prehistoric monuments are liberally sprinkled across Brittany but nowhere is there anything to rival Les Alignements at Carnac, a short hop inland from the seashore. Think menhirs. Lots and lots of menhirs. To save you counting, there are more than 3000 of these ancient monuments, the majority grouped in four clusters of serried lines that stretch for 4 km and cover 40 hectares. Impressive from any angle.

Standing stones

I bag my first menhirs during a guided tour by e-bike from Carnac where I collect my two wheels from bike hire company A Bicyclette and meet up with genial guide Alexandre from Mobilboard. Following dedicated cycle tracks and the occasional quiet lane, we make regular stops along the five sandy beaches of stylish Carnac-Plage and on around the headland to the smart marina at La Trinité-sur-Mer.

Then we loop inland and follow an off-road track into sun-dappled woodland where a line of menhirs borders the path at regular intervals. It’s surprisingly humbling to touch stones older than Stonehenge that were put here by Neolithic settlers some 6,000 years ago. And to come across a single giant stone in the trees, the 6-metre Géant de Manio, near the Kerlescan alignments. But there’s more to come. From the top of a restored windmill beyond the wood, we enjoy a high-level view over the 1029 menhirs of the Kermario alignments, before finishing our tour at Saint-Michel Chapel, perched on an ancient burial mound 12 metres high.

I’m staying over in Carnac at Hôtel La Licorne a short walk from the chic boutiques and bustling restaurants of the town centre, where I soak up the atmosphere and mull over my day from a terrace table at La Sultana.

Next morning, I head to the Maison des Megalithes beside the Ménec alignments for an overview of these enigmatic stones, currently part of an application for UNESCO World Heritage status that includes Brittany’s wider prehistoric monuments. Carnac still poses a wealth of unanswered questions. What were the stones actually for? Were they put here by one group of people at the same time or many people at different times? Theories and legends abound.

A public footpath runs around the perimeter fence or you can join a motorised tour of the complete site, but the only way you can walk amongst the Ménec alignments is on one of the excellent pre-booked tours. One theory we learn is that the stones were placed here as a warning to invaders from the sea, in an era when the shoreline was closer than it is now. But secretly, I hope we never find out and the megaliths keep their air of mystery.

Water all around

Next day, I enjoy a tranquil walk from La Licorne through country lanes to the headland overlooking the Quiberon Peninsula. Named after the seaside town at its tip, the Presqu’Ile de Quiberon is pretty impressive as peninsulas go, so narrow at one point that you can see both sides at once.

South of Penthièvre, it fattens out sufficiently to accommodate holiday homes, walking trails and quiet beaches, as well as a peak-season railway, Le Tire Bouchon or ‘corkscrew’, which avoids the single road leading to Quiberon and all points seawards. Activity cranks up considerably in this upbeat little seaside town in summer as passengers flock to ferries for the popular holiday island of Belle-Ile-en-Mer and its smaller neighbours, Houat and Hoedic.

I want to enjoy the wilder Côte Sauvage on the Atlantic side of the peninsula so I stay at the charming Hôtel des Deux Mers nestled in pine trees at Saint-Pierre-Quiberon.  After a relaxed evening at Les Canailles, a bar-guingette in the village centre, I watch the sun set over the ocean and next morning walk the tide-washed sand before breakfast. An enchanting way to start and finish any day.

In glorious summer sunshine, I could easily spend a few days exploring the area. The medieval town of Auray and the nearby river port of Saint-Goustan; Europe’s largest menhir at Locmariaquer beside the Golfe du Morbihan; and the ‘wild dunes’ from Gâvres to Quiberon, largest natural area on the Breton coast and classified Grand Site de France.

But with limited time, I choose to explore the liquid thoroughfare that divides the Baie de Quiberon from Lorient to the west. Technically it’s a ria – or drowned river bed – stretching inland for 22 km but locals refer to the Etel river. Pick up one of the regular cruise excursions with Navix from the fishing port of Etel to see historic waterside communities such as Saint-Cado and experience tranquil creeks, salt marshes, and dramatic currents. A different kind of magic in an area already infused with myth and mystery.

Find out more on the Baie de Quiberon Tourist Office website: baiedequiberon.co.uk

By Gillian Thornton, one of the UK’s leading travel writers and a regular writer for The Good Life France Magazine and website.

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On the Emerald Coast, within the curved bay of Mont Saint-Michel, east of St-Malo, magnificent oyster beds stretch for miles around the coastline and picturesque fishing port of Cancale in Brittany. It’s one of the best places in France to enjoy oysters says Jeremy Flint.

How the French fell in love with oysters

2000 years ago the Romans who came to France were fond of French oysters and small fishing communities began on the shores of the Bay of Mont-Saint-Michel to fish the wild oyster beds. King Louis XIV had oysters from Cancale delivered to Versailles – it’s said he would regularly eat six dozen before his main meal and some claim he would eat up to 300 in one sitting.

Today, cultivated beds cover 400 hectares of the Bay of Cancale, protected from the prevailing westerly winds and rocked by some of the largest and strongest tides in the world. 50 oyster farms and around 500 permanent staff farm a whopping 25,000 tons of oysters per year.

Farming oysters in France

The family run La Ferme Marine oyster farm has been cultivating the delights of the ocean for decades along Cancale’s captivating coastline. They specialise in producing two types of oysters, Japanese and flat. Flat oysters were traditionally harvested by hand at sea and are now dredged before being cultivated. Japanese oysters are more cupped in shape. Straight from the Pacific, they adapt to any type of environment.

The richness and diversity of the marine fauna and flora ecosystem play a crucial role in the breeding of the oyster in the Bay of Cancale. The quality of the sea water and plankton are the most important factors in making the taste of oysters stand out. Rearing an oyster is hard work and requires a unique know-how and a significant amount of time. It takes about three years for an oyster to grow and ready to eat.

Sacks of oysters are placed on raised racks 80cm above the seabed and regularly turned over at low tide during the three to four years of growth. This reshuffling prevents them from sticking to each other. Oyster farmers, kitted out in waders, work with the tides as they work the oyster beds and watch over these small marine pearls. At their prime, the oysters are harvested in rhythm with the tides. When the bags are detached and delivered directly from the seabed to the workshop they are separated, washed, and sorted by size. The grade varies from 0-5 for the hollow ones, so the smaller the number, the bigger the oyster.

The breeding expertise of the oyster farmers of Cancale have earned this area a UNESCO award for Intangible Cultural Heritage and many consider it to be the capital of oyster fishing in France. You’ll find that every restaurant in Cancale serves these succulent molluscs, and there’s an oyster market by the lighthouse where you can buy shucked oysters and sit on the sea wall slurping them.

Historically, oysters were cooked but are now largely consumed raw, and are renowned for their supposed aphrodisiac properties. Legend has it that the famous lover, Casanova ate 50 raw oysters for breakfast each day! The French are the biggest consumers of oysters in Europe gobbling almost 150 tons per year.

How to eat oysters

Oysters are traditionally served with slices of lemon, a mignonette sauce (see recipe below), and plenty of bread and butter (salted is best).

The coastal route from Cancale is a glorious place for a walk, visit the nature reserve of Pointe du Grouin and soak in the fantastic ocean views before feasting your eyes on the magnificent Mont Saint-Michel jutting out of the sea.

To find out more about La Ferme Marine oyster farm and arrange a tour, visit: www.ferme-marine.com

Recipe for Mignonette Sauce

2 tbsps finely chopped shallots
2 tbsps red wine vinegar
1 tbsp water
Pinch of salt

Stir all together, leave for 30 mins. Keeps for 2-3 days.

Jeremy Flint is an award-winning professional photographer and writer specialising in travel, landscape and location photography. His work is published extensively in The Good Life France Magazine, National Geographic Traveller Lonely Planet and Country Life amongst others. He is a five-time finalist in Travel Photographer of the Year, Association of Photographers Discovery Award Winner and National Geographic Traveller Grand Prize Winner.

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Swashbuckling adventure, romantic walks, and delicious Breton fare. Gillian Thornton soaks up the maritime atmosphere of Saint-Malo Brittany – city of corsairs.

With its imposing ramparts and towering waterside properties, few ports pack quite such a picturesque punch as Saint-Malo on Brittany’s north coast. Today the marina is packed with gleaming pleasure craft, but in centuries past, dozens of tall ships jostled for space along the crowded quaysides.

Strategically located on the eastern side of the Rance estuary, Saint-Malo was named after a 6^th century monk, the early settlement quickly fortified against potential invaders. But it was in the 16^th century that the town became famous for its wealthy ship owners or armateurs, its daring privateers, and skilled craftsmen. Within a few decades, Saint-Malo was the busiest seaport in France.

The historic walled city of corsairs

Arrive by sea and it’s an easy walk from the harbour to the historic walled town – the Intra Muros – which today combines with the neighbouring communes of Saint-Servan and Paramé to form Grand Saint-Malo, a town of some 50,000 people. Pitch up by car and you’ll find public car parks just outside the ramparts which largely leaves the Intra Muros to pedestrians.

Before you head inside the city walls, stop off at the tourist office just outside the town’s main entrance, Porte Saint-Vincent, for an annotated map. The earliest fortified town was an island at high tide, the gate accessed by drawbridge and guarded by a fortress that now serves as the Town Hall. Eagle-eyed visitors might notice that the town flag – an ermine wearing a scarf – is allowed to fly above that of the Republic, thanks to the city’s contribution to the national economy under Napoleon.

Step inside the main gate and the painted facades of Place Chateaubriand come in bright contrast to the sober stone around them. Romantic author François-René de Chateaubriand was born in 1768 in a house adjacent to the Hôtel France et Chateaubriand. He died in 1848 after an active political and literary life and rests beneath a simple stone cross on the Ile de Bé just offshore.

Jacques Cartier – the Canadian connection

A nearby street is named after another famous malouin, Jacques Cartier, born here in 1491. The son of a fisherman, Cartier’s naval career saw him promoted by François I and today he is hailed as the discoverer of Canada, landing first in Newfoundland and then in the St Lawrence estuary.

Cartier lies today in Saint-Vincent Cathedral, along with René Duguay-Trouin, a malouin corsair – or privateer – who served under Louis XIV and, in 1711, took possession of Rio de Janeiro. Unlike pirates who plundered foreign ships for their own gain, corsairs were licensed by the king to attack enemy ships in times of war. In peace time, many prospered as ship owners and merchants.

Saint-Vincent Cathedral is one of Saint-Malo’s treasures, not just for the adventurers who rest there but for its magnificent stained-glass windows. And yet it was almost lost for good in 1944 when some 80% of Saint-Malo was destroyed by Allied bombing, including parts of the cathedral. Happily, post-war town planners rebuilt the city to its former glory using recovered stone wherever possible and today, the joins are almost seamless.

All the light we cannot see

If, like me, you enjoyed reading All the Light We Cannot See by American author Antony Doerr, you will remember the blind French refugee girl from Paris who comes to live with family during the German occupation of the city and is befriended by a young German soldier. Download a walking trail (French only) from the website to follow in Marie-Laure’s footsteps.  Just remember to keep your eyes open!

A city made for walking – and eating

The Intra-Muros area is all very foot-friendly. You’re never far from the city walls and the cathedral spire is an excellent reference point for those who just like to wander at will. Just outside the cathedral, I came across the Enclos de la Résistance, a memorial garden and granite megalith honouring the city’s Resistance volunteers. Behind it, stands an arched 17^th century gallery, part of an old Benedictine monastery discovered in the ruins of the bombardments.

Look out too for the round tower that marks the house of Duchesse Anne, now a private home but once temporary lodgings for Anne of Brittany whilst she supervised construction of the castle. And maybe visit the imposing Hôtel Magon de La Lande, the former townhouse of a wealthy corsair, for a taste of the 18^th century good life.

Wherever you go, you can’t help but notice the edible temptations of this maritime city, whether you are shopping for souvenirs or taking a refreshment break. La Maison du Beurre in rue de l’Orme is a malouin institution run by master butter maker and cheese refiner Jean-Yves Bordier, proprietor too of Le Bistro Autour du Beurre.

High speed snack? I enjoyed a traditional buckwheat pancake or galette with savoury filling at Crêperie Chantal in Place des Herbes. And if you can’t resist a locally made ice cream, head to Sanchez in rue de la Vielle Boucherie for flavours that include liquorice, tiramisu, and gingerbread, as well as more conventional flavours.

Historic remains

Around and about

Sooner or later you’ll find yourself back at the city ramparts, so nip up one of the staircases around the 2km loop for one of the most spectacular seaside strolls you’ll ever do. The broad ramparts offer glorious views over Saint-Malo’s four sea forts, two of which can be visited on foot at low tide – Fort National and Fort du Petit Bé. Admire the homes of the armateurs beside the ferry harbour and look out for the sundial on the chimney of a house on Rue de Dinan that marks the home of Robert Surcouf, ‘King of the Privateers’, who harassed British ships off India as well as Europe.

Surcouf’s statue points out to sea from the ramparts whilst Jacques Cartier is immortalised in stone on the Bastion de la Hollande, one of the best places to view the sunset. Few hotels within the Intra Muros have sea views however, so I recommend heading outside the walls along the Plage du Sillon where I found my perfect French seaside hotel.

Part of a small portfolio of boutique Breton hotels, Ar Iniz (‘small islands’ in Breton) has a front row seat on everything – the huge expanse of golden sand, that spectacular sunset, and a broad promenade that passes a flamboyant selection of Belle Epoque villas.

If you can tear yourself away from the view, you’re less than half an hour by car from the small resort of Cancale, famous for its tasting kiosks beside the oyster beds (read more about Cancale in issue No. 36 of our Free to read The Good Life France Magazine). Maybe visit La Ville Bague in Saint-Coulomb, one of several mansions or malounières commissioned by the maritime gentry as summer homes in the countryside beyond the Intra Muros. Then return along the scenic coastal route via tranquil unspoilt beaches.

I end my day of exploration with a chilled glass of rosé on the terrace at Ar Iniz before relaxing over a six-course tasting menu that includes local mussels, sea bream and pork fillet, all in manageable portions with sublime flavour combinations. And when at last I’m feeling comfortably full, I fall asleep to the sound of the waves right outside the window. Perfect day, or what?

By Gillian Thornton, one of the UK’s leading travel writers and a regular writer for The Good Life France Magazine and website.

Gillian travelled overnight from Portsmouth to Saint-Malo with www.brittany-ferries.co.uk and stayed at Ar Iniz: www.arcollectionhotels.com. For visitor information, see www.saint-malo-tourisme.co.uk

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Straddling the departments of Ille-et-Vilaine, Morbihan and Loire-Atlantique, the Pays de Redon, is the perfect place to go for those who love nature and especially walks and hiking. With rich countryside, lakes and rivers and charming villages, it’s one of the secret places in the north of France that’s just waiting to be discovered…

The port town of Redon

The little town of Redon is full of character with its medieval architecture. Don’t miss the huge Saint-Sauveur Abbey founded in 832, one of the most important abbeys in Brittany in its time. The 17^th century Calvairiennes Monastery, half-timbered houses, and port on the river Vilaine make this a lovely town to visit. Private mansions, salt lofts and other old buildings bear witness to this flourishing period that Redon experienced in the middle ages. Today, the city is charming and tranquil and has a surprising maritime atmosphere.

The thousand-year-old site of Saint-Just

In the middle gorse and heather coats moors, discover an important megalithic site.  Thousand-year-old menhirs, dolmens and mounds make a walk here like a step back in time. Excavations indicate the construction of the dolmens took place between 4500 and 1500 BC. Nearby the forest of Tréal also provides an exceptional setting for a stroll.

The Valley du Don

Known as the land of 7 Rivers, the Vallée du Don is a land of legends where strange shaped rocks abound. The rock of the Carbosse fairy for instance, who put a curse on the land when the locals laughed at her. And the rock of lovers overlooking the  small, winding river Don. A hiking circuit (details from the tourist office of Pays de Redon) leads you through this beautiful valley.

Île-aux-Pies

Île-aux-Pies – Magpie Island in English – is located on the Nantes-Brest canal. A classified Remarkable Site, it’s Ideal for those who love to fish and to do water sports, as well as for walkers with its lovely tow paths.

The Vilaine Valley

This ancient valley was once under sea water, three million years later it’s a lush green haven.. The many rivers that flow into the Vilaine transform the meadows into a large lake during wet seasons. The towpaths enable hikers as well as cyclists to crisscross the ponds, forests and secret paths that border the river: the viaduct of Corbinières, Langon where you will see the beautiful bell tower and pretty chapel with its Gallo-Roman fresco – unique in France, the Grand Pas bridge and the small wrought iron bridges, the village of Brain-sur-Vilaine, Rieux and Béganne…

Some of the Pays de Redon’s best walking routes

The Pays de Redon is home to 7 geocaching routes that are ideal for the whole family. The  fun and educational treasure hunts are available via an app: “Trésors de Haute Bretagne” application.

The Vilaine Valley

Take a walk along the towpath or the GR39, and plan your return by train, or vice versa! The  route runs along the railway line from Rennes to Redon. Discover prehistoric remains in Saint-Just at the Maison “Megaliths and Landes” – open from April to November. Then follow the 7km long interpretation trail through the Cojoux moors which takes around 2h30m.

One of the prettiest walks in the region is the 14km long route from Chapelle-de-Brain to Brain-sur-Vilaine. Alternating ridges and valleys take you to the water’s edge and to hill tops with diverse landscapes. In the rainy season, the floods of the Gannedel marsh are a unique spectacle.

Terre et Vilaine de Béganne

A 17 km of circuit takes you between moors and country lanes, through the port of Folleux, where the sight of fields and sailboats is simply glorious. You can also do it by bike.

The Ruisseau circuit

A lovely 2.5 hour walk that leads from Saint-Just to the Étang du Val where you’ll have 360 ° views over the Château du Val.

Main walking events

March: Rando des Jonquilles in Saint-Jean

April: Hike La Levée des Bosselles in Redon

Beginning of October: the Ronde des Fours in Sainte-Marie

Find lots more details at: www.tourisme-pays-redon.com

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Rennes, the capital of Brittany is a vibrant city, teeming with historical sites and marvellous museums. It’s a city that’s easy to discover on foot, with plenty of places to take a relaxing or delicious break…

Step into the past

Wander the tree-lined, cobbled streets of the medieval district and admire the higgledy-piggledy half-timbered houses with fascinating carvings on the walls and doors.

The colourful, historic centre of Rennes is pickled in the past and it’s not hard to imagine how it looked in the days of the famous Duchess Anne of Brittany and the 14^th century Breton Knight Bertrand du Guesclin. Don’t miss Place Ste-Anne or Place des Lices where on Saturday mornings a market is held. It’s one of the largest markets in France and famous for its fish stalls (Saint Malo is just one hour away from Rennes).

Parliament of Brittany

The 17th century House of Parliament in Brittany is a symbol of the region. Incredibly it’s still active as a law court, and you can take a guided tour.

Indulge in the local gastronomy

There’s loads of choice when it comes to eating out but as this is Brittany, you have to try the local crêperies. Try Creperie les Betises (near the Parc du Thabor – see below) with its wall of jelly sweets and picture postcard ceiling, ideal for families. Or try the tiny Crêperie des Portes Mordelaises whose buckwheat pancakes are loved by the locals. A galette saucisse, (sausage pancake) is a local specialty and totally irresistible. If you’ve got a sweet tooth try the local favourites: parliaments, stuffed with apples and almonds – the locals recommend patisserie Le Daniel.

Les Champs Libres

The large futuristic building of Les Champs Libres is home to a stunning library and culture centre. Theres’s also the Museum of Brittany where you can hear Breton being spoken and explore Brittany’s history and culture. Don’t miss the Science Centre which is also housed in the building. It includes a planetarium and Merlin’s Laboratory, an interactive exhibit for kids. Perfect for a rainy day, for families and culture vultures.

Relax in Parc du Thabor

Parc du Thabor is perfect for a picnic or a relaxing wander. It has a water lily pond, bandstand, aviary and rose garden with more than 2,000 varieties.

Take a dip

The Saint-Georges swimming pool is an Art Deco jewel with preserved changing rooms and mosaic friezes created by the craftsmen of Odorico. Swim here and you’ll also get to enjoy this historical monument plus there are regular exhibitions, concerts and the pool even functions as an aquatic night club from time to time!

Activities to suit all ages

Park Gayeulles in the north east of the city is a great kids playground with wooded areas, ponds and perfect icnic areas. ideal for pastoral picnics. There’s also a tree climbing for all ages and mini golf course.

You can take bike tours, a cookery lesson or play Escape games.

Discover Brittany’s agricultural history at the Ecomuseum

Visit the city’s fam at the eco-museum of the Pays de Rennes. The former Ferme de la Bintinais covers 19 hectares and is a working farm where crops are grown and animals live. You’ll discover 5 centuries of local agricultural history and traditions.

More on Brittany

Visit nearby Dinan, a medieval jewel
Discover the Pink Granite Coast
Explore Saint-Malo
Merlin’s forest in Brittany – Broceliande
More on what to do in Rennes

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Wander through Broceliande, a wizard’s forest in the heart of Brittany. Though there are no signs of ogres or medieval maidens – it is truly magical…

The forest of Broceliande

In the forest of Broceliande, forty miles south-west of Rennes, there is a pile of red slate blocks. Through them grows an ancient holly tree. In its branches are flowers and wreaths of seven times knotted hair.

Wedged into the peeling bark are little anonymous messages. Some are written on slips of paper, some on the back of supermarket receipts. All are addressed to Merlin, the ancient intercessor between man and nature.

The world’s most famous wizard is said to be buried in these sacred Celtic woods.

Since the origins of Celtic mythology fifth and sixth century, and the publication in the twelfth century of the romances of Chretien de Troyes and Elinor of Aquitaine’s poet, Robert of Wace’s “Roman du Brut (1155), the Arthurian legend has fascinated and inspired millions. And mentioned Broceliande. The name appears in Tennysons’s “Idylls of the King” and inspired Tolkien’s region of Beleriand in Middle-Earth.

Some claim that King Arthur is buried in Glastonbury – or Worthyvale in Cornwall. His sword “Excalibur” is meant to lie at the bottom of a pool in the English county’s Bodmin Moor. Camelot has been variously located in Tintagel, Winchester and Roxburgh in Scotland. No one can really say for sure, the details are lost in the mists of memory. But here in France they know where Arthur’s most trusted advisor is. A Breton, his tomb is in the forest of Broceliande.

“Le Tombeau de Merlin” is under an hour away from L’Orient airport.

A wizard in love

Merlin fell in love with one of his students, a fairy called Viviane. She enclosed him in a magic circle and there he stays…

“I don’t think this is his final resting place. He is a spirit. He is everywhere. Not in one place,” said my guide, a professional Merlinologist and official tourist guide for “Le Centre de L’Imaginaire Arthurien” which aims to discover and spread Arthurian knowledge. The centre has several official “Round Table” guides.

“His spirit definitely inhabits the woods. That is why pilgrims come here. They seek guidance. The area is invested with memories of pre-Christian life.”

The forest has lots of well-marked footpaths and is a magical place to walk and feel the spirit of the old wizard. The tomb is indisputably an ancient site of worship. It stands near an old Neolithic gallery grave. The woods contain cromlechs and burial mounds from the Bronze and Iron ages. Water from the Fontaine de Barrenton spills over the Perron de Merlin (Merlin’s steps) into a pool where Merlin reputedly inducted Vivian into necromancy. For centuries locals believed that the water had enchanted properties.

Deeper into the forest, the Pont Dom Jean is believed to be the bridge of the sword crossed by Lancelot to deliver Guinevere. There is also a “Rock des Faux Amants”. The lover who betrayed Morgan, Arthur’s half-sister, and was turned into stone.

Broceliande is a part of Paimpont forest. The misty lakes and bubbling ponds of Les Forges and Perray and the castles of Trecesson and Pas-du-Houx are straight out of the pages of literary romance. The forest contains what many believe is the fountain of Barenton, where Merlin sat on his perron and conjured up a storm.

Golden trees and a lover’s bridge

In 1990, the woods burned for five days. As part of a massive re-plantation scheme, artist Francois Davin created his “L’Arbre d’Or”, a chestnut tree covered with gold leaf and surrounded by five blackened trees.

Our walking tour led us to the Val sans Retour (The Valley of No Return). It’s said the witch Morgane lived here and punished knights who were unfaithful to their ladies.

Surrounded by rocks which – to the guide’s eyes resemble the backbone of a sleeping dragon, we looked into the Miroir-aux-Fees (faerie pool) and sat on Merlin’s seat, a rock formation where he reputedly watched sunsets thinking up new ways of enchanting the world.

A bridge over a river called Pont du Secret is where Queen Guinevere told Sir Lancelot she loved him.

“Faithful lovers like Lancelet who avowed a perfect love for Guinevere can cross it without risk,” my guide explained with a sideways look. “The unfaithful remain as prisoners encaged by invisible walls.”

The church at Trehorenteuc celebrates and symbolizes the fusion of Arthurian legend with Celtic traditions and Christian faith. The mosaics, paintings and stained glass are all the work of a priest, Henri Gillard. The Celtic influence is symbolized by the oaks and acorns in the large stained glass window.

A fairy castle

All the Arthurian tours of Broceliande finish at Comper Castle, former stronghold of the king of Brittany. Here, Merlin is reputed to have created a crystal palace for the faerie Vivian so that none could gaze upon her. It’s believed to be buried in the lake where she is said to have swum with the baby Sir Lancelot after finding him abandoned. It’s why he is called Sir Lancelot of the Lake and she is known as the Lady of the Lake.

“They all come here and try not to look but they all do,” said my guide as we watched a group of schoolchildren looking down into the water.

“Everyone looks, hoping to see Merlin or catch a sight of the Lady of the Lake. They look for a long time. People are convinced they are both down there. They want to believe. It is an entrance to another world. The whole place is a dream world. It has a very otherworldly feel.”

We did not see any white-footed stags ferrying souls to the eternal shores, meet any mad washerwomen, ogres or medieval maiden in white dresses. Apparitions were thin on the ground. No black knights challenged us to mortal combat. But it does feel special…

For further information about guided tours of the area contact Centre L’Imaginaire Arthurien, Comper-en-Broceliande Castle: tourisme-broceliande.bzh/activite/centre-de-limaginaire-arthurien

More on Brittany

Discover the Côtes d’Armor and the Pink Granite coast

7 things to do in Saint-Malo

What to see and do in Dinan

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With its rows of standing stones, Carnac, on the south coast of Brittany, has long fascinated man. Along the northern side of the town, around three thousand standing stones, called menhirs in French, stretch in alignments for several kilometres. The three main alignments are Le Ménec with 1,169 stones, Kermario comprising 1,029, and Kerlescan has 555 stones.

Dolmens, burial chambers of vertical stones supporting a horizontal slab, are also dotted around the countryside, and Carnac boasts the largest grave mound in continental Europe: the Saint-Michel tumulus. Megalithic monuments are everywhere and visiting Carnac you soon become familiar with the vocabulary. The Maison des Mégalithes information centre, beside Le Ménec Alignments, is the place to go for information or to book a guided visit.

Shrouded in mystery

As burial chambers, dolmens and tumuli clearly belong to the universal function of burying the dead. The alignments, however, are still shrouded in mystery. Why did man erect so many menhirs into lines? Folklore, legends and superstitions have abounded for millennia. More recently, archeology and scientific research have thrown some light on the question, but we still don’t really know for sure. Perhaps Carnac was a religious site, perhaps even a place of pilgrimage, or the stones were dedicated or linked to the sun or moon, or formed some kind of calendar for agriculture? However, one thing is certain: given the effort required to remove large pieces of granite from local outcroppings and move them to the site, where they were then wedged into the ground, they must have held an important function in the society that was forming at that time.

Connecting to the past

If the stones could talk, they would have such stories to tell. They were erected between 3,000 and 4,000 BC, during the Neolithic Age, when man evolved from hunter-gatherer to sedentary farmer and started to settle in villages. During this long period there were significant advances in agriculture and tools, that permitted man to grow crops, domesticate animals and shape his environment. The Museum of Prehistory, in the town centre, explains this and is well worth a visit.

I fell under the spell of the standing stones in the early 1990s when I first visited Carnac. Coming from New Zealand, I had never seen anything man-made that old, and it was a moving experience. The stones make an impressive sight in their lines, like sacred sentinels, all similar, yet each one an individual statue with its own unique character. I was amazed how these simple stone shapes, that mimic the upright human form, made me feel connected back in time to very early man and all those who had lived around the menhirs and interacted with them over thousands of years.

The experience was richer because at that time you could wander amongst the alignments and even sit on the stones. No wonder the main alignments were later fenced off in order to protect them from further damage, in particular loosening of the earth at the base of the stones, caused by the ever-increasing number of visitors. These days, if you want to get up close with the stones, visit between October to March when you can freely enter the enclosures. During the high season, however, it is only possible to go on the site by taking part in a guided tour.

During that first visit I spent most of my stay exploring the alignments and also becoming acquainted with Carnac’s tallest menhir, the 6.5 metre high Giant of Manio, sitting alone in woodland, with only a low stone enclosure, Le Quadrilatère, for company. I also got to know the town centre with its square and St Cornély’s Church, tourist boutiques and small galleries.

Carnac Plage

It wasn’t until I returned to Carnac a few years later that I ventured south to the coast to discover a very different side of the town: Carnac Plage, with its long white sand beach, la Grande Plage, where the sky opens and the horizon stretches away – a stark contrast to the alignments, where trees and stone upon stone fill the landscape and anchor it firmly to the ground. I was struck by how Carnac contains the intrinsic duality of Brittany, as the Bretons say: armor, the coast, and argoat, inland, lightly wooded land.

Carnac Plage does have its alignments too, but they’re of a different sort: lines of striped beach tents, little sailing boats across the waves and queues of holidaymakers and locals at the iconic glacier, L’Igloo, watching the waffle cones being made while they wait to have one filled with some of the 170 different ice cream flavours available.

I keep returning to Carnac. Each time I wander around the town centre, sit for a while in the interesting St Cornély’s Church, eat my fill of galettes and moules frites and try yet another flavour at L’Igloo after wandering along la Grande Plage. And I am always drawn back, with the same sense of awe and wonder, to the menhirs, in particular the Giant of Manio, who feels like an old friend now.

Tracy Chollet is the author of Alignment, a 5 Star read and heart-warming tale of overcoming challenges and finding love set in Carnac, Brittany. Find out more at: tracychollet.com

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Port town St-Malo is in the department of Ille-et-Vilaine in northern Brittany. Sitting on the Emerald Coast it has an ancient citadel, medieval city and cobbled streets lined with bars, bistros and boutiques. There are beaches, stunning views, marinas and museums. This is a town with serious oodles of charm.

Follow in the footsteps of famous seafarers and pirates, grab your bucket and spade and head to the beach, enjoy fabulous regional cuisine and – fall head over heels for the maritime magic of St-Malo.

Roam around the ramparts

You can’t visit St-Malo and not take a roam around the ramparts. Construction began in the 12^th century and you can reach them from the steps at the St Vincent Gate. The views from the top are magnificent, especially when there’s a high tide – and they do get high in St-Malo (8-14 metres). On one side the ramparts run around the coastline taking in Quai Saint-Vincent and Quai St Louis and look over the Grande Porte and the battlements of 17^th century Fort National. This historic monument built on a tidal island, was designed by Vauban, Louis XIV’s military engineer, and you can walk out to it at low tide.  Gothic-style buildings, ship-owners houses and cobbled streets lay before you on the other side.

Eating out in St-Malo

There’s not much that beats sitting at a terraced restaurant under the great walls of St-Malo or by Porte Saint-Pierre steaming into a bowl of moules and dipping your chips and hunk of baguette in the juices in the pan.

When you’re in Brittany, it’s pretty much the law to eat crêpes (pancakes). So, it’s no surprise to find that Saint-Malo has plenty of delicious creperies. Crêperie La Touline (6 Place de la Poissonnerie) is a quaint little restaurant in the central area. They serve both sweet and savoury buckwheat crêpes and have a small terrace that’s great for people watching. It’s very popular with the locals both for the crêpes and the homemade ice cream. Bouche en Folie (14 rue du Boyer) is a friendly family run restaurant with a superb menu. It serves delicious fresh sea food, and the locals love it!

Channel your inner pirate

There are several museums in Saint-Malo – including one on a boat.

At the foot of the ramparts visit the Etoile du Roy (Star of the King) – and be an honorary corsair for the day. Etoile du Roy is a replica of a 1745 built frigate. A 3-masted, 47m long boat with 20 cannon guns, on this floating museum you can learn about life on board almost 300 years ago. Great for the whole family.

Grand Aquarium

Meet around 10,000 fish in the Saint-Malo Aquarium. More than 600 species of every shape and colour of fish live here including sharks. Board the ‘Nautibus’ submarine to navigate underwater among 5,000 fish.

Beaches of Saint-Malo

Saint-Malo is famous for its spectacular tides. The difference between high and low tides at Saint-Malo is among the largest in the world. There are vast sandy beaches peppered with rock pools.

Off the coast there are tiny granite islands including one with a fort. Fort du Petit Bé was built in the late 17th century and was armed with 15 guns, including two mortars. Climb to the top and you’ll immediately know why this location was chosen, there are wonderful views all round. You can walk out when the tide is low, otherwise a boat ride is necessary.

La Maison du Beurre Saint-Malo

In the charming cobblestone Rue de l’Orme you will find butter heaven. At La Maison du Beurre Monsieur Bordier sells his world famous butter from a blue painted store front. The famous Brittany butter-maker uses a traditional method of kneading butter using a teak frame and wheel a technique dating from the end of the 19th century. A great take home edible memento – if you bring your cool box.

Near Saint-Malo

Four miles north of Saint-Malo is the former fishing village of Rotheneuf, it’s well worth a detour. In the late 19th century, a priest named Adolphe Julien Foure lived almost as a recluse after a stroke left him deaf and partially paralysed, yet he chiselled hundreds of figures into the huge granite cliffs. Even more extraordinary, he used only a hammer and chisel. It’s an incredible and quite beautiful sight.

More on Brittany

Beautiful beaches of Brittany
Guide to Cotes D’Armor and the stunning Pink Granite Coast
Dinan – one of the most beautiful towns in France

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Brittany has more than 1700 miles of coastline, which makes it a top seaside destination in France. But this region has much more to offer. Medieval cities and picture postcard villages and a hugely diverse landscape both along the coast and in the glorious countryside. There are captivating castles galore, Celtic traditions and more than a dozen towns awarded “petite Cité de Caractère” status. Brittany has a distinctive and delicious cuisine – think succulent seafood, sparkling cider, delicious savoury and sweet an crêpes and much more.

This unique region is brimming with culture, rich in art and history. There are activities galore from golf courses to water sports and hiking the GR34, the famous trail which goes the entire length of Brittany’s coastline. Traffic-free cycle paths, island hopping, the birthplace of thalassotherapy with dozens of welcoming spas. Once you try it, you’ll definitely want to do go back for more.

Brittany is great for families, couples and groups. It’s easy to reach from the UK with several ferry ports along the Brittany and Normandy coast. Easy to drive to from Calais with great autoroutes. And there are trains to major Brittany cities from Paris. It’s a destination that offers something for every type of holiday and every taste.

Top attractions in Brittany

Brittany’s attractions are numerous. There are glorious beaches, seaside resorts, magical forests, stunning countryside, historic towns and the prettiest villages. When you visit Brittany you’ll indulge in some of the best food in France – particularly if you’re a seafood fan. It’s impossible to list all of the many things to see and do, but here are just a few favourites.

Brittany’s Beaches

In places dramatic towering cliffs and rugged rock formations create some of the most spectacular coastal scenery in France. Elsewhere there are beautiful stretches of sandy beaches and hundreds of charming little sheltered bays and inlets, many of which form harbours for Brittany’s traditional fishing villages. From the fabulous Pink Granite coast, where huge rocks have been eroded into fantastic shapes, to the idyllic beaches of Morbihan, many of Brittany’s coastal areas are dedicated to the protection of nature.

Saint-Malo

Saint-Malo is one of the key ferry ports in Brittany but it’s worth a visit in its own right. Great beaches, a historic and charming town and some seriously good restaurants make this a magnet for British tourists and one of the most popular destinations in Brittany.

Quimper

Quimper is the oldest city in Brittany. Originally settled during Roman times, Quimper is most famous for its pottery industry which began in the 17th century. It’s a lively city, fiercely proud of its Celtic heritage and Breton culture.

Locronan

Locronan in the Finistère department is officially one of the most beautiful villages in France. Just a few miles from Quimper, its history goes back 2000 years. The well preserved houses and cobbled streets are a photographers dream.

Rochefort en Terre

Voted favourite village of the French in 2016 – it’s easy to see why everyone loves Rochefort-en-Terre in Morbihan. A medieval chateau, cobbled streets, beautiful half-timbered buildings and artisan shops and everywhere flowers, baskets, troughs, pots, window boxes, the town is filled with flowers!

Port de St Goustan, Auray

In December 1776, the quiet little port town St Goustan received an illustrious visitor. Benjamin Franklin landed here on his journey to meet King Louis XVI to seek assistance in the American War of Independence. Today the historic little town looks much as it did that day. Half-timbered houses, boats bobbing in the port, cobbled streets where little shops and quirky boutiques do a brisk business. Utterly enchanting.

Dinan

Perfectly preserved, medieval Dinan, around 30km from Saint Malo looks like a fairy tale town come to life. It’s winding hills, cobbled alleys and ancient buildings are a magnet for tourists. Enjoy a boat ride, thriving café scene and fabulous weekly market as well as just strolling those oh so pretty streets. Read about Dinan here

Read more about Dinan

Pink Granite Coast

In the department of Côtes d’Armor, the coastline has a unique feature – the unusual and often monumental pink granite rock formations. This is unspoiled Brittany, tiny seaside towns, uncrowded roads, authentic and charming. Guide to Cotes d’Armor

Golfe de Morbihan

A “little sea” that’s almost landlocked and just perfect for a spot of island hopping – it’s said there’s an island for each day of the year in the Golfe de Morbihan. Boat rides, the nearby castle city of Vannes, picture perfect Auray, Carnac with its ancient menhirs – this area has so much to please holiday makers.

www.brittanytourism.com

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Tour of Brittany and Normandy

This is no rush-around-tick-a-box tour. Instead you’ll get to see the most beautiful sites, the legends and icons of Brittany and Normandy. You’ll visit authentic restaurants and creperies, discover the secret bits that most visitors miss, take beach walks, stroll the markets and explore the charming towns which make this area of France so special. There’s not heaps of time in your private vehicle, the tour is organised so that the journey times are kept short and leave you plenty of time to explore. Accommodation is in fabulous boutique hotels and seaside resorts.

What you’ll see on this Normandy Tour

You’ll start in Normandy at historic Rouen and see the Cathedral featured in many paintings by Monet, so awed was he by it’s beauty. Explore the city where Joan of Arc met her sad demise and then take in absolutely gorgeous Honfleur. The enchanting harbour lined with 16^th-18^th century townhouses is a favourite of artists and no wonder. It’s one of the prettiest ports in France.

You’ll dine in wonderful restaurants and enjoy fresh food markets. Stop off in swanky Deauville, famous for its 1920s Boardwalk and a favourite with Parisians who want a seaside sojourn. You’ll also get to see the 900 year old Bayeux Tapestry, one of the most historic documents in the world telling the tale of the Norman Conquest of England in 1066. You’ll visit Omaha Beach and end your Norman journey at the unmissable, magnificent Mont Saint-Michel. This magical island topped by a gravity-defying medieval monastery, is one of the wonders of the world. And, you’ll have lunch at the renowned La Mère du Poulard, following in the footsteps of Marilyn Monroe and Ernest Hemingway who also indulged in the famous crepes made here to the same recipe since 1888.

Then it’s a short journey over the border to Brittany.

What you’ll see in Brittany

You might think nothing will live up to the glory of the Mont, but your first stop is at the medieval time warp town of Dinan, an absolute jewel of Brittany.

Breton cuisine is world famous! Crepes, cakes, seafood and salted butter caramel, did you know salted butter was invented in Brittany? And you’re going to be totally spoiled as you experience the best of this region.

Dinard is the quintessential Brittany seaside town. It’s made many visitors fall in love with its charms from Alfred Hitchcock to Oscar Wilde. Chic and pretty the former fishing village is a joy to explore.

You’ll explore Saint-Malo with its historic walled city and then get off the beaten track to discover the most beautiful seaside towns of the Pink Granite Coast. You’ll go island hopping. Walk on the glorious beaches. Visit exquisite little towns, go to fabulous markets, take in beautiful gardens and much more.

Your tour ends with a visit to Laval, just on the border with the Pays de la Loire, it’s a fabulous town and close to Chartres which you’ll also visit and explore the world famous Gothic Cathedral.

Tours will resume in late 2022.

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