Top things do in Corsica

Picture postcard perfect beaches, historic cities, tiny islands that are like a little bit of paradise, and sunshine that’s a dead cert from spring stretching out all the way to October or even November – the island of Corsica is one of France’s best kept secrets says Janine Marsh as she shares some of her top things to do in Corsica…

A whopping 80% of visitors to Corsica are from France, and just 20% are from Europe and the rest of the world, which makes it a well-kept secret of the French and a rather off the beaten track destination for most of us – but oh, this magical island is so worth the journey.

Where is Corsica

Corsica sits in the Mediterranean Sea, almost midway between Nice and Rome, and just 10km from the Italian island of Sardinia. Its location gives it both an Italian and French flavour – joie de vivre meets the Dolce Vita, whilst retaining a unique identity of its own.

The Greeks called Corsica the “island of beauty.” It has been coveted and fought over for centuries, ruled by the Romans and the Greeks, the French, the Italians and briefly the British, then under its own independent rule, before final becoming a part of France a mere 230 years ago.

It is a wildly beautiful place with exquisite beaches, historic cities and villages that are pickled in the past. The countryside is diverse: from sun-baked vineyards to snow-capped mountains, chestnut forests, lakes and streams, and vast swathes of fragrant shrubland known as maquis, peppered with lemon and orange trees, cactus plants and wildflowers.

The artist Henri Matisse spent his honeymoon here and was inspired to capture its beauty over and over on canvas enthusing, “Everything glistens, everything is colour, everything is light.” It’s the perfect description of the sunny island with its jewel like flowers, sparkling turquoise waters and colourful historic buildings.

Corsican cuisine

Corsican cuisine is flavoured with French, Italian, Greek, Spanish, Phoenician and Moroccan influences which manifest themselves in a mouth-watering melange. Most famous are the many varieties of farmhouse cheeses and charcuterie while the signature dish is civet de sanglier au châtaignes (cignale cù e castagne in Corsican) an unctuous stew of wild boar and chestnuts. Traditional dishes include slow-roasted spring lamb with rosemary, veal medallions with citrus fruits and honey and all manner of delights from the fish counter, including the famed mussels from the Diana lagoon, halfway up the east coast. Served coated in flavoured breadcrumbs and served grilled on the half-shell, you’ll never taste better.

Calvi

In the south is the popular resort of Calvi where legend has it that Christopher Columbus was born. The small, bustling city is dominated by a majestic citadel and below it, a narrow warren of streets is lined with shops, cafés and bars. Restaurants look out over the glimmering bay and lure to rest for hours soaking up the views. Further down the coast, the stunningly beautiful jagged red rocks of Calanques de Piana, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and one of the highest calanques in Europe. Sheer cliffs and dramatic rock formations, jutting out of the inky sea are magnificent, majestic and mesmerising, home to many birds including eagle-like ospreys. You can take a boat tour from the breath-taking Bay of Porto, guarded by an imposing mediaeval watchtower – surely one of the most romantic places in the world to watch the sun go down.

Ajaccio

In the capital city Ajaccio, reminders of the French general Napoleon Bonaparte who was born here, are everywhere. No self-respecting Napoleon fan can resist a visit to the Maison Bonaparte. And no one should miss the must-see Musée Fesch, home to a fine art museum containing a priceless collection of Italian masterpieces, the largest in France outside of the Paris Louvre. The collection was once owned by Napoleon’s uncle, Cardinal Joseph Fesch, Archbishop of Lyons.

Close to the city, head to the Sentier des Crêtes trail for a hike through the maquis shrubland that is fragrant with myrtle, rockrose, and everlasting, known as the immortal plant. The hike looks out over the Gulf of Ajaccio and the Iles Sanguinaires in an area classified as one of the ‘grand sites of France’. Great for a picnic or just to while away the hours in aromatic paradise.

Cap Corse

Cap Corse looks tiny on a map, and you’ll need a car to visit this area but it’s absolutely stunning – dramatic, wild and unique and it’s easy to spend a whole day touring the area and stop for a delicious lunch at a local restaurant. The natural marine Parc of Cap Corse and l’Agriate is home to a rich variety of sea and wild life including migrating birds.

This spectacular promontory sticks out of the top of the island, almost seeming to point to mainland France. You’ll need to keep your wits about you as you negotiate the nail-bitingly exciting endless twists and turns, ups and downs and often precariously narrow stretches of one of the most fabled coast roads in the world.

Bastia

Bastia is Corsica’s second city, and it’s in the Haute-Corse region. Among the narrow lanes of Terra-Vecchia, the oldest part of Bastia, you’ll get a glimpse of Corsica’s soul. Baroque oratories, majestic churches where the voices of the choir resonate beautifully, the picturesque old port, and the market square which tempts you to linger and sample scrumptious regional produce. Experience the local specialities, flavoured by the maquis along the Strada di i Sensi, an agritourism route which winds through Bastia backcountry, from Cap Corse to Nebbiu, linking producers and artisans.

Inland is the dramatic Parc Naturel Régionel de Corse, with its tumbling streams and deep gorges plus the steep cobbled backstreets of ancient Corte, the headquarters town of the famed French Foreign Legion.

Bonifacio

Don’t miss super-photogenic Bonifacio, with its houses built into the side of the near sheer limestone cliffs where you’ll see, and if you’re feeling brave, experience the King of Aragon’s staircase. According to legend, the precipitous stairway, now a listed historic monument, was dug by hand in the limestone cliff in one night by the troops of the King in 1420. Its purpose was to access the Saint-Barthelemy fresh water well. Composed of 187 uneven steps, from the top the views over the sea, Sardinia and the surrounding cliffs, are sensational. At the bottom you’re just a few metres above sea level on a path carved into the cliff.

Head to the lighthouse of Pertusatu for exceptional views over the city. On the walk to reach the lighthouse, you’ll enjoy breath-taking views to the island of Sardinia, the Maddalena Islands and the Lavezzi Islands which you can take a cruise to.

Porto-Vecchio

Porto-Vecchio is nicknamed “the city of salt” thanks to its salt marshes. It’s known for its magnificent beaches: Rondinara has a magnificent fine sandy bay, Santa Giulia is popular with families for its shallow water; Palombaggia is the trendiest beach with silky sand, turquoise water and umbrella pines.

The town’s narrow streets are lined with boutiques and chic cafes and ice cream parlours.Climb to the top of the “Bastion de France” and from the scenic terrace, you’ll have panoramic views of the Gulf of Porto-Vecchio

Sartène

Not well known, Sartène is nicknamed “the most Corsican of Corsican towns.” Take a stroll in the picturesque winding alleys and discover the Echauguette, a fort built at the end of the 16th century, the old district of U Petraghju, the Place Porta and the Church of Saint Mary, which is at the heart of the famous religious night time procession known as Catenacciu which takes place in April.

Wine lovers will enjoy the famous vineyard of the AOC Sartène. It extends over the regions of Ortulu and Tizzanu and there are cellar visits where you can taste the different vintages.

What to do on Corsica

There’s plenty of cultural things to do in Corsica: museums, ancient churches, castles and ramparts, artists and festivals, menhirs dating back 6000 years . Every town has a fabulous market, vineyard visits and artisan products. Hiking, cycling, snorkeling, swimming, exploring the gorges, rock-climbing and canyoning. Or just relax and enjoy the charms of the island of beauty.

Be warned, Corsica will capture your heart, one visit is never enough.

How to get there:

Several ferry companies offer sailings from Nice to the island.

Join a CroisiEurope cruise which departs from Nice and stops at the major ports all around the island and takes you to its most beautiful towns, cities and countryside: www.croisieurope.co.uk

Janine Marsh is the author of several internationally best-selling books about France. Her latest book How to be French – a celebration of the French lifestyle and art de vivre, is out now – a look at the French way of life.