What to see and do in Nancy

Nancy in the in the department of Lorraine, northeast France is a bit of a hidden gem, a city of exceptional heritage, dazzling architecture and perfect for foodies. If you’re wondering what to see and do in Nancy – we’ve got you covered! Anna Richards shares her perfect three-day itinerary.

There are many cities in France which have been designed with beauty at the forefront, but perhaps none more so than Nancy. Built in the image of Versailles and Paris’s Place Vendôme to welcome Louis XV (who after all that effort, only actually visited twice), it’s like all of the prettiest parts of Paris in miniature — and without the crowds. Just 90 minutes from Paris Gare de l’Est by TGV, it’s perfect for a long weekend.

Cultural highlights – Day 1

The gilded Place Stanislas, Nancy — Place Stanislas © Regine Datin, Tourisme Nancy

Start at Place Stanislas, the UNESCO-listed, gold-gilded heart of the city. Each of the corners of the main square display elaborate Baroque fountains, and wrought iron lamp posts frame the buildings. Versailles in miniature it may be, but this square was designed and commissioned by a Polish king. Having lost the throne in his home country (where complicated wars of succession were causing chaos), King Stanislas sought refuge in Nancy with his wife and two daughters in 1736.

The French king Louis XV had taken a shine to his daughter, Maria Leszcynka, and devised a plan to get both the girl he wanted, and to incorporate what was then the independent dukedom of Lorraine into France. The current Duke of Lorraine, Francis Stephen, needed Louis’ permission to marry the Empress of Austria. And, in exchange Louis asked him to cede his dukedom to Stanislas. Lorraine would pass to Maria Leszczynka upon her father’s death, and therefore her descendants, the French royal family. To show his gratitude, Stanislas pulled out all the stops with his rebuilding of Nancy, which was once merely a trader’s outpost on boggy land.

Fine Arts Museum

Spend the morning exploring the Beaux-Arts Museum in the old School of Medicine, on Place Stanislas. There’s contemporary and classic art, a superb collection of iconic, edgy pieces by Jean Prouvé, one of the 20^th century’s most influential architects – renowned for his minimalist style (one of the houses he designed can be seen in the city), and plenty of temporary exhibits. But the basement contains the real wow-factor: a shimmering collection of crystal glass made at Manufacture Daum, Nancy’s own glass making factory. Stop for lunch at A la Table du Bon Roi Stanislas, whose menu, far from being cutting edge, is firmly rooted in the 18th century.

Wander

From here, walk through the old town and along the Grand Rue around which a maze of narrow streets are lined with shops, markets, and skinny houses with mullioned windows. Finish at Porte de la Craffe, a 14th century gateway that once formed part of Mediaeval fortifications that ran all the way around the town. It’s not possible to go inside, but the imposing exterior is well worth a look, with twin, grey turrets that look like a pair of pricked ears. As you wander, look out for the 19th century basilica, Saint-Epvre, built in a Neo Gothic style with bronze statues of angels playing horns encircling the belltower. The stained-glass windows are lovely from the inside.

Treat yourself to a meal which looks like a work of art at La Maison dans le Parc. There’s a set, three-course dinner menu with a choice of three dishes. Let the restaurant know in advance if you’re vegetarian.

Art Nouveau – day 2

Villa Majorelle Nancy — Villa Majorelle © Damien BOYER

Art Nouveau, often described as the predecessor of Art Deco, began in Belgium and France in the late 19th century, and Nancy was one of the hotspots. Highly decorative, it was characterised by elaborate carvings and stained-glass windows, often with a botanical theme. Le Musée de l’école de Nancy is the best place to go to understand it.

Inside, says art critic Brad Allan, the rooms look slightly warped, a little like a Gaudí building. “A mind-bending highlight is a wondrous dining room where every detail expresses the flowing design motifs of the Art Nouveau movement – from the ceiling down to the floor and everything else in between. The visual impact of a room composed entirely of Art Nouveau artefacts is utterly staggering. As Art Nouveau expresses organic, entwining forms, the room seems to writhe before your very eyes, like a twisting interior forest. The massive light fitting seems to descend on a vine from the timbered ceiling as you look upon it. The wall coverings suggest a deep and mysterious woodland. A lone chair really does seem to have arms that are ready to wrap around you. The huge sideboard appears to wave in the breeze. The fireplace surround looks like a gaping mouth just waiting to close.

Although in isolation Art Nouveau artefacts can seem whimsical and romantic, when massed together as they are here in one dining room, the effect is somehow much more foreboding. You might find yourself thinking that if Dracula had a dining room, this is where he would sit down to enjoy a cup of warm, er, tea.

But there’s much more to this museum than this unique dining room. That’s just one part of a very large house that forms the only museum in the world exclusively devoted to the presentation of a vast number of the most exquisite Art Nouveau artefacts. There’s a bedroom – with an astonishingly out-sized winged bug motif in the timber – several well-presented reception rooms and fixtures and cabinets galore of the most impressively stylised glassware and ceramics. Around every corner is another startling revelation. Even the reception desk at the museum entrance would be a prized exhibit in any other museum. It’s this simple: if you have any interest in Art Nouveau at all, you’ve arrived in Nirvana. It just doesn’t get any better than this, anytime, anywhere, ever.”

Just next door is La Villa Majorelle, the very first Art Nouveau building in Nancy, where everything from the curved bed frames to the excessive carved stone chimney running through the centre of the dining room make you feel as though you’ve fallen into a fairy tale. Look around you as you wander – even the parts of the city which appear modern and a little drab at first often hide Art Nouveau treasures. Pharmacies with mosaic façades. Carved wooden vines running around door frames. And most curious of all, the ceiling of a bank. Go into the LCL branch in the middle of Rue Saint-Georges, to find a stained-glass skylight, 250m2 in size, decorated with magnificent Art Nouveau flowers. Accountants going about their day seem unfazed by tourists, at least for the time being.

Stop for lunch at Vins et Tartines, where you can try the region’s typical wine, known as ‘vin gris’, and it’s not grey as the name suggests, it’s actually an iridescent pink not dissimilar to rose-gold. The open-top sandwiches are positively gourmet, and very hearty.

Always an artistic town, Nancy didn’t stop evolving after the Art Nouveau movement, and it has become a hub of innovative street art. From intricately-carved drain covers to sculptures made from park benches, it’s an open-air art scene which goes far beyond murals and graffiti. To make sure you don’t miss any of it, book onto a street art tour. To stay on theme, eat at Brasserie Excelsior in the evening, an Art Nouveau bistro with a classic menu and a painted ceiling worthy of a chapel.

Some like it hot – day 3

Begin the day with a stroll in one of Nancy’s immense urban parks. Jardin Pépinière has Art Nouveau pavilions, and resident peacocks and monkeys. It’s worth leaving the city centre to visit the botanical garden, Jean-Marie Pelt, on the city’s periphery, which has everything from alpine to tropical plants.

It would be a sacrilege to leave Lorraine without trying their famous quiche, and the best in town is at Le Potager.

After all the sightseeing, enjoy a relaxing trip to Nancy Thermal. This thermal spa first opened at the beginning of the 20th century, but by the 1930s it had already been abandoned. It took almost a century for the spa to bounce back, and in the spring of 2023, a 20,000m2 complex was unveiled. There’s the original round swimming pool under the dome, surrounded by pillars and looking rather like a Roman bath, outdoor heated Nordic pools, hammams, waterfalls, saunas, jacuzzis and a solarium, and all the water comes directly from the naturally thermal springs below Nancy.

Top tip: Pop to the tourist office to buy a City Pass for 1, 2 or 3 days – it includes entrance to all museums and monuments in the Greater Nancy area, guided tour of the city and audio guide, travel on the public transport network, city guide, ride on the little tourist train plus special offers and discounts in numerous shops and activities.

Find all the details for what to see and do in Nancy at: Nancy-Tourism.fr/en

Anna Richards is a writer & guidebook author living in Lyon. Her work has appeared in Lonely Planet, National Geographic and many more.