Family friendly Calais!

For millions of Brits, Calais is their first introduction to France, maybe to Europe. Arriving at the port of Calais, those millions, by and large, point their cars south, unaware of the historic town they miss, oblivious to its treasures and charms. But family friendly Calais is well worth stopping for says Janine Marsh who lives nearby.

Calais is an ideal day trip or weekend destination, and absolutely worth a detour on your way to or from the UK. Perfect for a spot of shopping and stocking up on French wine and goods. And it’s ideal for kids – with a resident dragon, stunning beach, plus a chance to practice their French language skills. History and culture lovers will find lots to keep them happy and food lovers will be over the moon with the cosy bistros and seafood restaurants. Here’s why I think Calais should be on your bucket list.

Family Friendly Calais

Seaside fun: The seafront of Calais has, like the town, undergone a major redevelopment. A new promenade, new restaurants and bars, ice cream and snack kiosks, skate park, free fitness areas, exercise bikes, basketball courts and playgrounds. If you remember Calais as a rather old-fashioned resort, you’re in for a surprise. Calais beach has been completely revamped, and its silkily soft sandy beaches are pristine. And there’s plenty of free parking.

Meet a dragon: Calais is home to a dragon. Yes really. The seafront of the city is a unique playground for a winged, fire-breathing, winking, sneezing 82 feet long friendly dragon! It doesn’t matter how old you are, you can’t help but be amazed at the sight of him as he carries up to 50 passengers on his back and takes them on what has to be one of the most unusual city tours in the world.

Reach for the sky: The 271 steps of the Calais lighthouse are worth the effort for stupendous 360° panoramic views over Calais and the English Channel. This local landmark has been in service for almost 200 years in what’s known as the Fishermens area, called Kaleis in the 12^th century.

Take a cruise: On weekends take a cruise on the Calais Canal (details at the tourist office).

History & Culture

The destiny of Calais has been influenced by its proximity to England, just 38km across the Channel. When Edward III of England invaded France in 1337, the event started the Hundred Years War. And in 1347, Calais fell under English rule following an 8-month long siege at the end of which 6 burghers (leading citizens) offered their lives to save the rest of the townspeople. The English King spared them, and they are honoured in a magnificent larger-than-life sculpture by August Rodin outside the town’s historic town hall, where General Charles de Gaulle married Yvonne Vendroux, daughter of a local biscuit manufacturer. Calais didn’t become French again until 1558. For a bird’s eye view over the town, head to the top of the UNESCO-listed Belfry attached to the town hall, which is considered to be one of the most beautiful in France with its neo-Flemish façade and Art Deco-stained glass windows and decor.

A short walk away, the Fine Arts Museum. It has a fine collection including a permanent Rodin exhibition which has been recently renovated in collaboration with the Rodin Museum of Paris.

Only a few traces of Calais’ medieval past have survived including the 13^th century Tour du Guet, the Watch Tower in Place d’Armes which in the 19^th century was used as a telegraph station. It was from here that news of the death of Napoleon was transmitted to Paris. There is a ring of forts created to protect the city dating from the 14^th century to the 16^th century Citadel built on the site of a medieval castle. In the 17^th century King Louis XIV’s military engineer Vauban undertook a revamp of these fortifications. More recently the Atlantic Wall was constructed by German forces during WWII as a defence against an anticipated Allied invasion. In the Park St Pierre, in front of the town hall is a rather hidden, very interesting museum, Musée Mémoire, housed inside a bunker complete with 21 rooms of exhibits telling the history of Calais (73% of the old Calais district was destroyed) during WWII.

The Cité de la Dentelle et de la Mode, The City of Lace and Fashion Museum, has a huge and fascinating collection of textiles and costumes reflecting the city’s position as the centre of the French lace making industry from the early 1800s. There are regular temporary exhibitions and a superb shop.

Foodies

Feeling peckish? You’re in the right place! There’s a huge choice of restaurants in Calais, from refined dining to cosy cafes.

Just a few of my favourites include Aquar’aile which has magnificent panoramic sea views and a superb menu including succulent oysters and a scrumptious fruit de mer platter, leave room for a dessert or two – it’s hard to choose just one! Au Côte d’Argent has great views to the coast from where you can watch the Calais dragon pass by. With a light and airy dining room, and in the summer, a brilliant barbeque area and sunny terrace, the food is superb (and great value). Enjoy a gastronomic feast at Le Grand Bleu in the port of Calais. Classic meets innovative here, hot-dog au boudin de St Jacques with spicy shrimps is absolutely irresistible!

Feast on the atmosphere as well as the food at Les Grandes Tables du Channel at Calais’s National Theatre. With a restaurant serving modern classic dishes, (the 5-course menu de extraordinaire really lives up to its name) and a cosy bistro serving local favourites in theatrically decorated surroundings, this is one of the best kept secrets of Calais – foodies will adore it.

Street markets are held in place d’Armes on Wednesdays and Saturdays and at place Crevecoeur on Thursday and Saturday mornings.

The tourist office is right by the train station in the centre of town. Their website for lots of details for what to see and do: calais-cotedopale.co.uk

Janine Marsh is the author of several internationally best-selling books about France. Her latest book How to be French – a celebration of the French lifestyle and art de vivre, is out now – a look at the French way of life. Find all books on her website janinemarsh.com